Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press
When you use it in the ultrasonic cleaner are you using it straight or diluting it?
When you use it in the ultrasonic cleaner are you using it straight or diluting it?
When you use it in the ultrasonic cleaner are you using it straight or diluting it?








Hello GJ. My first post to the Craftsman Drill Press thread. I picked up my 150 (DP #1) a few months ago and came across this thread. It needed little work and some minor lube. Found out about all the other models after coming across this thread. I drill metals a lot and DP #1 wasn't cutting it. My search for one with the MSA attachments began.
I came across a bench top model with the attachment. Guy wanted 150 and it came with a awfully ugly looking stand. Asked him if he would be willing to go down a little if I bought it without the stand. He accepted 100. Picked it up this morning. It's in pretty rough shape. Looks like their is some damage to the MSA pulley but I think I may be able to bend it back in place. I believe this is an 80 model serial number 103.23640.
Planning to do a full restore. I have some grez off and BKF on order. Hopefully the original paint isn't too bad.
I'm still trying to read through the thread. There's so much information to absorb. I'll try to document my progress and may pop in once in a while for some questions.
Cheers! Hope all is staying safe out there.
I have noticed the drill table on my drill press has two slots that are not in line with the spindle.
I noticed these holes on several other DPs brands from the period.
What were these holes originally intended for?
Yep. Vises, clamps, x-y table, auxiliary table, etc. I don't think there was any specific purpose.Probably for a same era DP vise that was an extra cost accessory.
Does anyone use their DP with two tables on the column?
Does anyone use their DP with two tables on the column?
Found it! Member bmihlfeith posted it here back in December:I recently saw a picture of a drill press with two tables, but I can't recall where.
Finally found one!
It has all the bells and whistles - Vari-Slo, table lift, accessory light (not shown in pics) and the guy even had an extra "industrial" table (which I'm going to use) that also has an accessory table with it.
It was in good condition, not a single mark on either of the THREE tables. I went ahead and broke it down for a good cleaning and painting because it was filthy.
Anyone know where the slotted table may have come from?
The table lift doesn't work with the larger table as is (it works fine with the stock table.) I think I'm going to use a piece of pvc or abs pipe with a >2.75" ID and use it between the table lift and the bottom of the bigger table. I think that will allow it to lift the table without any interference. The bottom side of the larger table doesn't allow for unimpeded contact with the table lift mechanism. The pipe, think "spacer", should slide in without interfering, I'm hoping anyway.
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PSA: Check your feed stop bracket
Your bracket may be sliding off the quill if:
- you can see the spindle sticking up above the pulley
.
I was doing speed comparison on both of mine yesterday at the spindle and I could have sworn that both the benchtop pre-1950 100 (two handle) and my 1956 100 had the spindle proud of the pulley. The pre-1950 was freshly put together. I will double check later today to make sure.
EDIT: spindle comes out 2mm proud of both presses
Thanks for checking. I changed and added another photo with more extreme examples.
I bought my 150 a few years ago and have not cleaned it up although I did put a new cord on it and used it a few times. Your post got me thinking even though it is targeted at early 100s. Please see the pic - Am I missing a snap ring and if so where can I get one? Thanks for the help.
Clicked on your link and that may be the answer. Is that where the quill gasket goes?
I bought this CM 150 a few months ago and am getting ready to start restoration. It is a 103. and is complete and working except I think that the Feed Return Adjustment Knob has been replaced with a bolt. In reading this thread, I see the quoted mention that the knob may have been eliminated on the late 150s. What do you guys think? Is it correct as is, or should I start looking for a replacement part. FrankLee - awesome thread and work. I got the manual for my CM block grinder and tool sharpening attachment you pointed me to in another thread. Thanks.
I do have a spare snap ring. PM me if interested.
Did you ever do anything with your spring issue?
.
Could someone please help this guy over on oDwwm? He's getting some bad info and I'm no longer welcome over there.
http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=212901
Thanks FrankLee - You sure know your stuff. I took your advice and found a good used knob on Ebay. It was as simple as replacing the bolt with the knob - the bolt was the correct thread and had not damaged anything. Here is a pic of the dusty DP wondering why I had not started cleaning it up.
I will PM you about the snap ring and buying the o-ring kit. Thanks again.
I’ll help him out. ....
They're Too Fussy over there,Could someone please help this guy over on oDwwm? He's getting some bad info and I'm no longer welcome over there.
http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=212901

Could someone please help this guy over on oDwwm? He's getting some bad info and I'm no longer welcome over there.
Their loss Frank we are sure glad your on here !
LOLThey're Too Fussy over there,![]()
Could someone please help this guy over on oDwwm? He's getting some bad info and I'm no longer welcome over there.
Their loss Frank we are sure glad your on here !
They're Too Fussy over there,![]()
Well Said. I'd like to add one more story, .....(Just Kidding).................Well, No, I'll let it go too.Thank you. There are roughly 250 different members who posted in this thread! I appreciate all the support and participation.
I'm not gonna fan the flames, but I hear ya.

I’ve sold a couple of things recently on Facebook marketplace. Yeah it’s definitely different now. No handshakes any more. Guy had the money in the envelope and pretty much threw it at me.
One of the significant recommendations for virus protection is NOT using cash, as it carries the virus live for a significant period of time. This makes it difficult for those of us who deal in used tools and equipment as that's the traditional way. I am fortunate that I can process credit cards and also use PayPal, but most customers don't want to deal with that and bring cash. Same goes for the shop work I do.
I don't have a good answer, but thought I would mention it.
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When I got my DP disassembled, I saw that the spindle was cracked right above the taper. I got the dimensions to cut a new one and put the material in my cart on McMaster. Then I got the bright idea to just shorten the existing spindle. Surely 3/4" shorter wouldn't hurt anything. Oh, yeah. They drilled a hole in it about an inch-and-a-half up. I don't want to lose 2" of travel, so I guess I'm ordering the material this week.
Dave
That will be an interesting project. Please take and post pictures along the way.
I have all of the dimensions I need to make the new spindle, just no material yet. As the original spindle is junk as it is, I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything to go ahead and shorten it. If nothing else, it would serve as a good practice piece.
Aside from the bent/cracked spindle, spindle bearings, and poorly-executed-but-still-functional speed reduction abomination, the machine seems in good shape. Even replacing the spindle won't make the machine terribly expensive.
I did notice there is detectable slop in the quill, though. I need to go back through that area of the thread and see if there is any information on what is considered acceptable. I imagine for most things this machine would be used for, a fair amount of play would still not affect its operation. I almost always use a center punch to locate drill press holes anyway.
Dave
If you're referring to quill slop relative to the head frame casting, there are no adjustments for that.