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Craftsman Drill Press

cclfn

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Use it in the ultrasonic cleaner and it works great as well.


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When you use it in the ultrasonic cleaner are you using it straight or diluting it?
 

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sheltonfilms

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

When you use it in the ultrasonic cleaner are you using it straight or diluting it?


Stuff is so cheap I usually use it straight.

If I pour in a partial bottle and it doesn’t make it up to the level I need I’ll top it off.

Really depends on the level of grease. If it’s a light layer, I might just go ahead a dilute it. If it’s heavy I give it the full beans.


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2barevo

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hello GJ. My first post to the Craftsman Drill Press thread. I picked up my 150 (DP #1) a few months ago and came across this thread. It needed little work and some minor lube. Found out about all the other models after coming across this thread. I drill metals a lot and DP #1 wasn't cutting it. My search for one with the MSA attachments began.

I came across a bench top model with the attachment. Guy wanted 150 and it came with a awfully ugly looking stand. Asked him if he would be willing to go down a little if I bought it without the stand. He accepted 100. Picked it up this morning. It's in pretty rough shape. Looks like their is some damage to the MSA pulley but I think I may be able to bend it back in place. I believe this is an 80 model serial number 103.23640.

Planning to do a full restore. I have some grez off and BKF on order. Hopefully the original paint isn't too bad.

I'm still trying to read through the thread. There's so much information to absorb. I'll try to document my progress and may pop in once in a while for some questions.

Cheers! Hope all is staying safe out there.be490b2962ff9ab75b7185935a1252e5.jpge6227ec1e7df8b051e2fb370fc8fa4d5.jpg9e7ef694a53fe06ff4d0caee40c42544.jpg3099eeb5b47223c705a763fa12370fe3.jpgbf2335cd8d9cbfdca54ac4d3c5233cbe.jpg

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sheltonfilms

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Speaking of “ugly” stands. I think I found the cheapest method of making a stand for a bench top.

My old grill finally rusted out so I took the top off and screwed a piece of MDF on the top and voila! a drill press stand plus extra storage in the cabinet below.

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FrankLee

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

Hello GJ. My first post to the Craftsman Drill Press thread. I picked up my 150 (DP #1) a few months ago and came across this thread. It needed little work and some minor lube. Found out about all the other models after coming across this thread. I drill metals a lot and DP #1 wasn't cutting it. My search for one with the MSA attachments began.

I came across a bench top model with the attachment. Guy wanted 150 and it came with a awfully ugly looking stand. Asked him if he would be willing to go down a little if I bought it without the stand. He accepted 100. Picked it up this morning. It's in pretty rough shape. Looks like their is some damage to the MSA pulley but I think I may be able to bend it back in place. I believe this is an 80 model serial number 103.23640.

Planning to do a full restore. I have some grez off and BKF on order. Hopefully the original paint isn't too bad.

I'm still trying to read through the thread. There's so much information to absorb. I'll try to document my progress and may pop in once in a while for some questions.

Cheers! Hope all is staying safe out there.

Glad you're here. Please do.



The dp hunting has probably slowed considerably, but how are you all doing with your refurbs?


I finished dp#82 yesterday and have a buyer when this social-distancing and self-isolation is over.

I'm also still working on that very crusty motor.
 
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FrankLee

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I have noticed the drill table on my drill press has two slots that are not in line with the spindle.
I noticed these holes on several other DPs brands from the period.

What were these holes originally intended for?
Probably for a same era DP vise that was an extra cost accessory.
Yep. Vises, clamps, x-y table, auxiliary table, etc. I don't think there was any specific purpose.

I could see it useful for when the table is tilted 90 degrees. The later non-tilting tables do not have those two slots.
 
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FrankLee

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Does anyone use their DP with two tables on the column?
I recently saw a picture of a drill press with two tables, but I can't recall where.
Found it! Member bmihlfeith posted it here back in December:
Finally found one!

It has all the bells and whistles - Vari-Slo, table lift, accessory light (not shown in pics) and the guy even had an extra "industrial" table (which I'm going to use) that also has an accessory table with it.

It was in good condition, not a single mark on either of the THREE tables. I went ahead and broke it down for a good cleaning and painting because it was filthy.

Anyone know where the slotted table may have come from?

The table lift doesn't work with the larger table as is (it works fine with the stock table.) I think I'm going to use a piece of pvc or abs pipe with a >2.75" ID and use it between the table lift and the bottom of the bigger table. I think that will allow it to lift the table without any interference. The bottom side of the larger table doesn't allow for unimpeded contact with the table lift mechanism. The pipe, think "spacer", should slide in without interfering, I'm hoping anyway.

vAyVvXq.jpg

EtipMZC.jpg
 
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FrankLee

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PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

About a year after I completed the refurb on my keeper machine, dp#15, I discovered that the feed stop bracket had started sliding down the quill. Shortly after that, I swapped out the quill with one that had the snap ring.

If its been a while since you refurbished your early Craftsman 100, it may be time to check your feed stop bracket to verify that it's still fully seated. A fully seated bracket should be about 3/32" below the bottom edge of the quill.

1742824295970.png

There are several clues that will help identify an out-of-position bracket.

Your bracket may be sliding off the quill if:
  • you can see the pulley lift up at the end of a feed return
  • you can hear the spindle collar bumping up against the spindle pulley shaft on a feed return
  • you can feel the spindle collar bumping up against the spindle pulley shaft on a feed return
  • you cannot see the entire thrust collar below the bracket
1742824446937.png
  • you can see too much spindle sticking up above the pulley

    1742824557176.png


The bracket on one of my recent machines was badly worn when it made contact with the chuck collar.

1742824611973.png


Check this post for the consequences of the feed stop bracket sliding off the quill.


I now normally use a green bearing retainer on feed stop brackets/quills when assembling these drill presses.

1742824769769.png
.
 

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sheltonfilms

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Re: PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

Your bracket may be sliding off the quill if:

  • you can see the spindle sticking up above the pulley




.

I was doing speed comparison on both of mine yesterday at the spindle and I could have sworn that both the benchtop pre-1950 100 (two handle) and my 1956 100 had the spindle proud of the pulley. The pre-1950 was freshly put together. I will double check later today to make sure.


EDIT: spindle comes out 2mm proud of both presses
 
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FrankLee

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Re: PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

I was doing speed comparison on both of mine yesterday at the spindle and I could have sworn that both the benchtop pre-1950 100 (two handle) and my 1956 100 had the spindle proud of the pulley. The pre-1950 was freshly put together. I will double check later today to make sure.


EDIT: spindle comes out 2mm proud of both presses

Thanks for checking. I changed and added another photo with more extreme examples.
 
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Dorsey

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Re: PSA: Check your feed stop bracket

Thanks for checking. I changed and added another photo with more extreme examples.

I bought my 150 a few years ago and have not cleaned it up although I did put a new cord on it and used it a few times. Your post got me thinking even though it is targeted at early 100s. Please see the pic - Am I missing a snap ring and if so where can I get one? Thanks for the help.
 

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FrankLee

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I bought my 150 a few years ago and have not cleaned it up although I did put a new cord on it and used it a few times. Your post got me thinking even though it is targeted at early 100s. Please see the pic - Am I missing a snap ring and if so where can I get one? Thanks for the help.

Clicked on your link and that may be the answer. Is that where the quill gasket goes?

Interesting... yes, your snap ring is missing. And yes, that's where the quill gasket sits.

I've never seen that ring missing on a 150. Your 150 is Power Bronze, so it's an early model. It makes me wonder if one was ever installed at the factory. I do have a spare snap ring. PM me if interested.

The oe dimensions of a used ring are:
  • id: 1.530"
  • thickness: 0.0435"
  • width: 0.155"

I believe a standard 1.5" external ring would work fine, but the width around the ring is generally not uniform. An inverted external ring would work well but thickness must be considered.

I always thought these oe rings were a pita to r&r. The holes for snap ring pliers would be very convenient. Below is a link that shows how I r&r the ring.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5983159


Here's an interesting post by GJ member tamperista regarding the quill & snap ring:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6086086





Did you ever do anything with your spring issue?
I bought this CM 150 a few months ago and am getting ready to start restoration. It is a 103. and is complete and working except I think that the Feed Return Adjustment Knob has been replaced with a bolt. In reading this thread, I see the quoted mention that the knob may have been eliminated on the late 150s. What do you guys think? Is it correct as is, or should I start looking for a replacement part. FrankLee - awesome thread and work. I got the manual for my CM block grinder and tool sharpening attachment you pointed me to in another thread. Thanks.

.
 
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Dorsey

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I do have a spare snap ring. PM me if interested.

Did you ever do anything with your spring issue?

.

Thanks FrankLee - You sure know your stuff. I took your advice and found a good used knob on Ebay. It was as simple as replacing the bolt with the knob - the bolt was the correct thread and had not damaged anything. Here is a pic of the dusty DP wondering why I had not started cleaning it up.

I will PM you about the snap ring and buying the o-ring kit. Thanks again.
 

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FrankLee

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Thanks FrankLee - You sure know your stuff. I took your advice and found a good used knob on Ebay. It was as simple as replacing the bolt with the knob - the bolt was the correct thread and had not damaged anything. Here is a pic of the dusty DP wondering why I had not started cleaning it up.

I will PM you about the snap ring and buying the o-ring kit. Thanks again.

:thumbup:


I’ll help him out. ....

Thanks. That just frustrates the hell out of me.

11:05 Edit: Excellent response!
 
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bubinga

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They're Too Fussy over there,:shocking:
LOL
I should let it go, but one time,
I posted a Powermatic Sander When it was done,
and commented, "well I might sell my Delta now"
(The Powermatic had more "cool factor")
RIGHT AWAY, I get a PM,
"That has to be posted on Bring out your dead section"
I wrote back and told him to chill, I was just saying, not offering it for sale.
Lot of helpful and knowledgeable people over there though.
Got A lot of help on My Delta bandsaw around 2009!
 
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FrankLee

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FrankLee

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Is been a strange few weeks, but I've gotten a few things done:



Trying to stay busy.
 

sheltonfilms

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I’ve sold a couple of things recently on Facebook marketplace. Yeah it’s definitely different now. No handshakes any more. Guy had the money in the envelope and pretty much threw it at me.


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FrankLee

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

I’ve sold a couple of things recently on Facebook marketplace. Yeah it’s definitely different now. No handshakes any more. Guy had the money in the envelope and pretty much threw it at me.

Yes, very different. There aren't as many cl or fb listings and very few estate sales.
 

Craptain

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

One of the significant recommendations for virus protection is NOT using cash, as it carries the virus live for a significant period of time. This makes it difficult for those of us who deal in used tools and equipment as that's the traditional way. I am fortunate that I can process credit cards and also use PayPal, but most customers don't want to deal with that and bring cash. Same goes for the shop work I do.
I don't have a good answer, but thought I would mention it.

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FrankLee

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Re: The Classic Craftsman 100/150 Drill Press

One of the significant recommendations for virus protection is NOT using cash, as it carries the virus live for a significant period of time. This makes it difficult for those of us who deal in used tools and equipment as that's the traditional way. I am fortunate that I can process credit cards and also use PayPal, but most customers don't want to deal with that and bring cash. Same goes for the shop work I do.
I don't have a good answer, but thought I would mention it.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reminder!

I didn't elaborate on the cash transaction, but the buyer had the cash in an envelope. I had on my nitrile gloves and never touched the bills without the gloves. I had my wife grab a sheet of paper from the printer and I wrapped the bills in the paper. Then tossed the envelope and wiped down the folded packet and gloves with a clorox wipe until the paper was pretty soggy. That's how it will sit until I need cash.
 

whateg01

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When I got my DP disassembled, I saw that the spindle was cracked right above the taper. I got the dimensions to cut a new one and put the material in my cart on McMaster. Then I got the bright idea to just shorten the existing spindle. Surely 3/4" shorter wouldn't hurt anything. Oh, yeah. They drilled a hole in it about an inch-and-a-half up. I don't want to lose 2" of travel, so I guess I'm ordering the material this week.

Dave
 
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FrankLee

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When I got my DP disassembled, I saw that the spindle was cracked right above the taper. I got the dimensions to cut a new one and put the material in my cart on McMaster. Then I got the bright idea to just shorten the existing spindle. Surely 3/4" shorter wouldn't hurt anything. Oh, yeah. They drilled a hole in it about an inch-and-a-half up. I don't want to lose 2" of travel, so I guess I'm ordering the material this week.

Dave

That will be an interesting project. Please take and post pictures along the way.
 
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FrankLee

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I can tell that a lot of these Craftsman drill presses are being refurbished during this stay-at-home period.

I've been selling sets of o-rings for quite a while. It's really not about the income and I'm definitely not going to get rich from these. I usually sell one or two sets a month. Over the last two weeks, I sold 13 sets! It's not real surprising I guess, but I just found it interesting.
 

whateg01

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That will be an interesting project. Please take and post pictures along the way.

I have all of the dimensions I need to make the new spindle, just no material yet. As the original spindle is junk as it is, I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything to go ahead and shorten it. If nothing else, it would serve as a good practice piece.

Aside from the bent/cracked spindle, spindle bearings, and poorly-executed-but-still-functional speed reduction abomination, the machine seems in good shape. Even replacing the spindle won't make the machine terribly expensive.

I did notice there is detectable slop in the quill, though. I need to go back through that area of the thread and see if there is any information on what is considered acceptable. I imagine for most things this machine would be used for, a fair amount of play would still not affect its operation. I almost always use a center punch to locate drill press holes anyway.

Dave
 
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FrankLee

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I have all of the dimensions I need to make the new spindle, just no material yet. As the original spindle is junk as it is, I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything to go ahead and shorten it. If nothing else, it would serve as a good practice piece.

Aside from the bent/cracked spindle, spindle bearings, and poorly-executed-but-still-functional speed reduction abomination, the machine seems in good shape. Even replacing the spindle won't make the machine terribly expensive.

I did notice there is detectable slop in the quill, though. I need to go back through that area of the thread and see if there is any information on what is considered acceptable. I imagine for most things this machine would be used for, a fair amount of play would still not affect its operation. I almost always use a center punch to locate drill press holes anyway.

Dave

Yeah, machining practice may be very beneficial.

If the shortened spindle were installed in the machine though, it would likely feed out of the bottom of the spindle pulley shaft. The pulley shaft is ~4-5/8" tall. The internal splines of the shaft are the bottom 5/8". There is about 4" of feed. That's not much overlap with the quill/spindle fully extended. A clamp-on collar at the top of the quill may be able limit feed.


If you're referring to quill slop relative to the head frame casting, there are no adjustments for that.
 
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GreyEyes

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If you're referring to quill slop relative to the head frame casting, there are no adjustments for that.

Yeah, it's shortcoming on most drill presses. Steel quill sliding up and down through a cast iron bore. If it gets used a lot and isn't kept well lubed the wear can get pretty sloppy. If you are used to working with a milling machine, a drill press will always seem like it's flopping all over, but for drilling holes that little bit of play won't even be noticed.
 
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