Created a basic layout. Missing anything?
- Thread starter _Charles_
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bushmechanic
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- Mar 17, 2014
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Edited.
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shortykorte
Well-known member
It's not hot in Tampa. Try Tallahassee. Welcome fellow Floridian.
To your question, generally looks pretty good to me.
A couple of comments and questions.
Why the two man doors? Sliding the interior to the front area could eliminate the exterior lift room man door.
Great idea on the double doors in back for mowers. I might suggest sliding this door back towards corner by 3' so you could have a bench or shelves or lawn equipment rack on backside of lift room.
The front elevation probably looks better with the 3 garage doors. One thought is replace the middle garage door with the man door. The right garage door make it 16'. Mirror vertically the cars so the convertible is next to the boat. Having the 16' door will make backing in cars and trailers a lot easier. I have 10' door and it feels tight backing my truck or a trailer in there.
Definitely go with the mezzanine. Best thing I did in my shop.
Sounds like Bushmechanic is referring to the wall mounted package AC units. You see them a lot on portable offices or school portables. Two mini splits would be a good solution. One for the work room, one you can turn on for the larger area to deal with the humidity.
The fun has obviously started since you have a design. Congrats and looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
To your question, generally looks pretty good to me.
A couple of comments and questions.
Why the two man doors? Sliding the interior to the front area could eliminate the exterior lift room man door.
Great idea on the double doors in back for mowers. I might suggest sliding this door back towards corner by 3' so you could have a bench or shelves or lawn equipment rack on backside of lift room.
The front elevation probably looks better with the 3 garage doors. One thought is replace the middle garage door with the man door. The right garage door make it 16'. Mirror vertically the cars so the convertible is next to the boat. Having the 16' door will make backing in cars and trailers a lot easier. I have 10' door and it feels tight backing my truck or a trailer in there.
Definitely go with the mezzanine. Best thing I did in my shop.
Sounds like Bushmechanic is referring to the wall mounted package AC units. You see them a lot on portable offices or school portables. Two mini splits would be a good solution. One for the work room, one you can turn on for the larger area to deal with the humidity.
The fun has obviously started since you have a design. Congrats and looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
What is your purpose for this building? Vehicle storage, restoration, woodwork, storing sporting /play stuff, welding and fab, or a place to show off your success? I'm also having a problem with your scale. It seems that gold rig is over 20' long, and the scale marked in 8' increments is out of the norm. You don't give a wall height so the mezzanine question is not answerable.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
Ditch
Banned
I have one and an outside shower if I get covered in something and need to clean up.
To me, I like it.
To my honey. it's a MUST.
She doesn't want the dirt tracked in the house, and really, neither do I.
Purpose:
Large area- Vehicle storage
Small area- Build track car, general maintenance, have friends over for 'mod' parties.
Since I want to be able to store a Class A Motorhome one day, I believe the door will have to be 14', which means wall will need to be 15-16? Scale may be off, I did the layout myself online, purely amateur to start with something.
Gold rig represents my 1953 Cadillac.... and yes, it's about 20'. I already have 5 cars to put in the shop..and probably will expand the collection over time. Part of the reason to build so big...
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rayra
Well-known member
where are the workbenches, storage cabinets, toolbox spaces. You need to leave / make some room for them.
And likely inside the Lift space or immediately adjacent.
Maybe a curtain wall that will hold the conditioned air, but can be opened otherwise. Seems odd to have such a large space and wind up effectively working inside a single-stall garage.
And likely inside the Lift space or immediately adjacent.
Maybe a curtain wall that will hold the conditioned air, but can be opened otherwise. Seems odd to have such a large space and wind up effectively working inside a single-stall garage.
Curtain? Novel Idea! Quick google search led me to this...
https://www.curtain-and-divider.com/industrial-insulated-curtains/insulated-curtain-walls/
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Purpose:
Large area- Vehicle storage
Small area- Build track car, general maintenance, have friends over for 'mod' parties.
Since I want to be able to store a Class A Motorhome one day, I believe the door will have to be 14', which means wall will need to be 15-16? Scale may be off, I did the layout myself online, purely amateur to start with something.
Gold rig represents my 1953 Cadillac.... and yes, it's about 20'. I already have 5 cars to put in the shop..and probably will expand the collection over time. Part of the reason to build so big...
Sorry to take off topic, but I dog the old caddie!
I have two Chrysler New Yorkers and want the stance you have achieved on the caddie. Can I ask how you managed? I assume on air? I wouldn't mind static drop a couple inches on mine, but I can't find drop spindles for the front.
My rat rod is bagged and lays frame so that's the fun one.
rockettgpw
Well-known member
You have Holdens in Florida, how so?
shortykorte
Well-known member
Something like this? Less doors does mean less $$$ ;-)
Yes. Exactly what I had in mind.
Nice rides.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
astroracer
Well-known member
Check out the Grizzly workshop planner.
http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner
This will let you design your building to scale with tools, tool boxes and a lot of equipment that takes up space you are not showing in your layout.
One suggestion I ALWAYS offer is to keep all of the doors at least 4' from the inside walls. Leaves room for benches, tool boxes, working room and storage.
Mark
http://www.grizzly.com/workshopplanner
This will let you design your building to scale with tools, tool boxes and a lot of equipment that takes up space you are not showing in your layout.
One suggestion I ALWAYS offer is to keep all of the doors at least 4' from the inside walls. Leaves room for benches, tool boxes, working room and storage.
Mark
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Bathroom would be high on my list, also a utility sink and place to hook up a hose.
Plans for locating an air compressor? Storage racks, cabinets, broom closet? Any windows?
Plans for locating an air compressor? Storage racks, cabinets, broom closet? Any windows?
Falcon67
Well-known member
Get a larger boat and/or leave the tow vehicle attached and you'll have to move everything to get one of the other cars out. I'd personally rather have the doors. The car size doors don't have to be huge, you only need one big one to clear an RV. You are also boxed in on the lift area. Looks like the plan there is a work in progress station but if you need to lift for one of the other cars whatever is in there has to roll out the door. I'd consider some simple opening - sliding barn door maybe - across the back so you could roll a "project" back into the rear space to make room for maintenance on another vehicle.
The mower doors should open outward so their sweep doesn't mean you have to keep moving stuff to clear them. Were it me, I'd lose them entirely and replace them with a small rollup door. My shed where I keep my mower has the 2 swing doors, and you have to hook them to the wall when they're open or they blow closed again. That would get irritating on a riding mower when you're trying to get it in and out while the door is flapping around in the wind.
I also agree with Falcon - design your doors for what you might have 10-20 years from now, not what you have right now. You're likely to upgrade stuff and increase the length which will make it a pain to get stuff out if you only have the one door over there.
I also agree with Falcon - design your doors for what you might have 10-20 years from now, not what you have right now. You're likely to upgrade stuff and increase the length which will make it a pain to get stuff out if you only have the one door over there.
dragrcr890
Well-known member
If you are going to fabricate I would obviously do it in the enclosed room, so I would make sure 220v plug is on the shared wall so my welder could be unplugged and moved to the main big space and a repair could be made out there then back to the fab area. Also woodworking/dust would or could be kept in that area. if you have a RV you'll want at least an outlet near the center of the rig to plug in, just a standard 15amp is sufficient, water would be nice on that side to fill tanks, wash things. how about a floor drain for indoor washing of vehicles.. endless stuff really.
teamextreme
Well-known member
Missing anything? Well, yeah, there's too many lawnmowers and not enough motorcycles! 
I like Falcon's suggestion for the added door at the back of the lift area.
I would also recommend a larger door on the RV side. I hate single car doors , they are very limiting to get things through.
I like Falcon's suggestion for the added door at the back of the lift area.
I would also recommend a larger door on the RV side. I hate single car doors , they are very limiting to get things through.
matt_i
Well-known member
Definitely ceiling fans. Boats, especially if pulled out regularly need to dry out. A/C would also help but the airflow does a good job just slower. I don't know if you run fresh or saltwater but I'd be cautious about putting a salty dog in with a group of fine autos. I think it could invite corrosion...
After looking in this thread I started a poll, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=363427 .
I would suggest that you draw your walls 3-6' thick to represent the lost floor space taken up by workbenches and storage. This is probably a more true representation of what you have for a parking area on he floor. May not be true for all but do something to show that lost area if you lean toward wall storage and benches.
lg
no neat sig line
I would suggest that you draw your walls 3-6' thick to represent the lost floor space taken up by workbenches and storage. This is probably a more true representation of what you have for a parking area on he floor. May not be true for all but do something to show that lost area if you lean toward wall storage and benches.
lg
no neat sig line
cowboy73
Well-known member
Where is your air compressor going to be located?
jmlcolorado
Well-known member
Perfect! That's all the info I need!
Thank you sir! Now the gears are rolling in my head for mine
shortykorte
Well-known member
Hey Charles, any updates?
Bighead38
Well-known member
Please start a thread about your cars. Would love to see more of the ute. I've also always loved prowlers especially with an engine swap.
WhiffySpark
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- Joined
- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 6,252
Friend has a Holden g8. There's also a caprice around here.
I would make the double doors a smaller garage door. You could put another car in that stall and another lift if needed
machine_punk
Well-known member
It is my understanding you need 3 bays to 'work' on a car (one for assembling the car, one to store all the parts and stuff and one to actually work in).
I agree with not putting doors within 4 feet of the side of the door. Great for workbenches, storage shelves, etc.
If you already have this many cars, wouldn't you want significantly more room for expansion?
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Kev.
I agree with not putting doors within 4 feet of the side of the door. Great for workbenches, storage shelves, etc.
If you already have this many cars, wouldn't you want significantly more room for expansion?
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
Kev.
keen
Well-known member
Easiest way to AC a shop is with a "package" air conditioner. You mostly see them with mobile homes, but sometimes with crawlspace houses.
They even make portable units for tents and such - same idea in those, just with wheels and big cords. I've seen them from 1 to 10 tons, probably go higher too...
Basically the indoor and outdoor parts are in a single unit - already plumbed. You don't have to deal with refrigerant since it's already done. Just duct an insulated supply and an insulated return through the wall and into it.
You want to seperate them a bit obviously, and filter the return. A nice central tube with some basic vents to direct airflow helps. Hang a thermostat somewhere, provide power, and you've got cooling.
And, of course, you want some circulation fans (ceiling, wall, floor, whatever) to help move the air around in the space - since you're not doing careful duct design and supply/return placement. (you can, of course.)
Oh, and they're often available as heat pumps too.
Since they're self contained, they great for the DIY - used or new.
Here's a couple of examples for the OP - welcome to GJ from the other side of Orlando!
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ppd/d/ton-package-unit-all-in-one/6218975187.html
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/app/d/ton-c-packaged-outdoor-unit/6230766875.html
I was going to use one (probably 2 smaller units) in my shop, but my mini splits came free (...after removing them from under 100,000+ pounds of 500 year old oak tree sitting on top of a 120 year old house, anyway.)
keen
Well-known member
Yeah - you definitely want to add ~24" + walk space (that might be 20-24" if you dont care about code and elbows - but 36" is more comfortable) around walls, because they -will- get stuff stored there. tools/machines, cabinets, toolboxes, piles of lumber, whatever - if there's a wall, it's best use is to hold stuff.
And where you -do- plan on putting drawers, remember to have enough room to open them. Not much use to stick a 28" deep cabinet with 24" deep drawers somewhere you can only open the drawers 20"...
keen
Well-known member
My thoughts - I'd stick 2 20ft wide doors on the storage side of the front (or as close as will fit). I was going to do 2x10, but my builder convince me to do 1x20 and i'll never go back to a small door.
Also - build it as tall as you can, THEN put a full height attic truss on top, if you aren't height restricted. The 12 ft wide full 8ft high aisle down the center of my attic is amazing space - then the wings of each truss bay make for huge amounts of space.
Which is a good reason to use post frame trusses (1 or 2 trusses per bay, instead of every 24"), too....and a good reason to use post frame. Unless you're doing red steel.
Get your builder to quote you the price difference for the attic truss - you might be amazed at the price/sqft.
If you don't have a builder, I can recommend one - PM me. (not a secret - chuck at cornerstone (CBS) in longwood - 99% sure chuck covers your area as well and I can put you in touch)
sberry
Banned
I need to get a drafting program, I would change this some also and get rid of the room.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Hope you had a great Christmas. Any progress on your layout?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Started playing around with layout (60x50). Thoughts? Sides/rear of the building do not lend to any real opening (to get cars in/out) due to trees, etc.
What other items should I consider? Also considering a Mezzanine over the left side of the shop (20x50)
I like the size, same as mine.
I have a 20' wide section divided off as well but for our RV. I would recommend if you are thinking RV down the road that the one door you make at least 14' wide, preferably 16' wide by 14' tall. That would accommodate even the largest of RV's and it much easier to pull in/out with at least a 14' wide door. I have a 16' wide door in the RV bay and love it. My other doors are 12' wide and I am glad I didn't go with 10' wide doors.
You will also really like the double door for getting riding lawn mowers out of. I love having the ability to open both doors out of the back of my attached garage to drive my mower in and out without having to move vehicles and having to go out one of the larger overhead doors.
I realize you want to keep an area separated for A/C reasons, but you may want to go just a bit larger to be able to accommodate workbenches, toolbox and most used pieces of equipment in that cooled area as well.
Good luck on the build.
Mr.Octane
New member
Astro. Thanks for the website. I'm also in the planning stages and this will help.