Crimpers.

[Gurp]

Who can recommend a few decent sets of crimpers for eletrical ends.
nothing high end will just be using them occasionally.

 

[cvairwerks]

Depends on what you are crimping...too open of a question right now. What type connectors are you planning?

 

[Two Speed]

Small wire (under 8 guage) Channel Lock 909 crimping pliers. Or whatever brand that floats your boat since theres a few similar ones out there.

 

[Shed of tools]

I picked up a set of Channellock 909 today they seem decent.

 

[Wamsutta]

Since I can't recommend the IDEAL 30-429 because they changed them and ruined them, I'm forced to recommend the next best thing; the Snap-on 29ACF.

 

[OHMS LAW]

These are my go to for 12v wiring.

 

[Danglerb]

Crimps run the gamut from almost anything works, to yes you really do have to buy the $200 single purpose crimp tool. I've got a Klein and something that looks just like a 29ACF, but isn't, and half a dozen special types.

 

[MBfreak]

Off Topic. TOTALLY. Please excuse me.
DANGLER B

Are you still running the Porsche 928 in your avatar on the K(E?) Jetronic and dizzy ignition?
Rebuild it to any of the aftermarket EFI/Ignition systems and you will enjoy the car much more.
I am sure that the US Porsche Club techguru has several systems.
You may have to machine the K Jetronic seat in the 8 individual intake runners to fit modern injectors.
That was about the only problem on a job I did 15 years ago. The alu in the intake runners was very porous, ended up milling oversize and crimped/glued in steel inserts. Piece of cake for any speed shop mill.

Ola

 

[gatewaysysop]

Who can recommend a few decent sets of crimpers for eletrical ends.
nothing high end will just be using them occasionally.

I think "nothing high end" is probably relative, but for myself, I have a pair of Channellock 909's and Thomas & Betts WT111M. That's about all I could want for, at least for home shop use. I don't think either one would break the bank for most people.

Plenty of other options out there, and plenty of old threads on the subject. Here's one of them:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208773

 

[Negen]

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/...ols/forged-steel-wire-crimper-cutter-stripper

These are nice Kline 200n USA made

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[AngryBeaver]

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/...ols/forged-steel-wire-crimper-cutter-stripper

These are nice Kline 200n USA made

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using The Garage Journal mobile app

I would not recommend these. the crimp placement is too close to the pivot for any kind of leverage. I bought them with high hopes, but the smaller snap on crimpers work 10X better at actually crimping.

 

[Magic-Matt]

Good information guys, I've always had problems with this kind of tool and sent many of them back... moral of the story don't skimp on the crimp!

 

[CTyankee]

I'm usually only crimping smaller gauge wires. I've had a few cheap wire crimpers/strippers that have proven to be pretty useless. One day I tried using the small flat jaws located at the base of my Irwin vice grips. They doesn't the crimping shape jaws to them, but they have great leverage and have found they work great for smaller wire connectors. YMMV.

 

[Outlander]

I'm far from a pro but I like my Channelocks and the (Irwin, I think) ratcheting crimpers. General use, 12v projects.

 

[Bert_]

Had a Klein crimper that I lost. Now I use a channellock 909 that I found on the side of the road.

 

[dubdoc]

Am I the only guy in the world that solders, then heat-shrinks crimp connectors???

 

[rusty_ratchet]

For relatively small wire (>10 gauge) I like the Paladin crimper. There are a lot of dies available so you can crimp a wide range of terminals. For really big wire I like the Panduit CT-720.

 

[Aileron]

Ive used the Klein 1005 or 1006 in my service bucket. I cheat a bit and mostly use the non insulated crimp even to start on insulated terminals. Run into to many loosely crimped and burnt wire connectors on compressor contactors especially with factory crimps. Haven't had one of my crimps burn yet, so it must be right if I'm wrong.

 

[joe_padavano]

For relatively small wire (>10 gauge) I like the Paladin crimper.

^^^THIS. I crimp a lot of Packard 56 and Weatherpack terminals for GM cars, and I went through a boatload of pliers-type crimpers. None were satisfactory. I finally got a Paladin-style frame and the MSD dies for those terminals. What a difference. Note that there are a lot of clones of the Paladin crimper frame. I think I got mine for $15 at a swap meet. The dies I bought from Summit and they were about $45 at the time. Well worth the price. They will produce a factory-style double crimp (conductor and insulator) with a single pass.

 

[Two Speed]

Ive used the Klein 1005 or 1006 in my service bucket. I cheat a bit and mostly use the non insulated crimp even to start on insulated terminals. Run into to many loosely crimped and burnt wire connectors on compressor contactors especially with factory crimps. Haven't had one of my crimps burn yet, so it must be right if I'm wrong.

I only ever use the non-insulated crimper for everything. If you got good connectors, the insulation won't break. But anyway, back when I stated working in a telecom substation equipment manufacturer, smart stupid me knowing all about crimpers ;-) used the non-insulated crimps in the provided crimper and got a QC fail. I'm like whats wrong? Bad crimps. I say what do you mean? THe wire is not pulling out, I used the insulated crimp on the insulated terminal... and then I got schooled on the fact that for it to pass, a proper crimp that will not pull out and provide best electrical contact all crimps must be done with the non-insulated crimp, problem being the insulated crimp flattens out the barrel, leaving lots of open area and poor mechanical strength. So dimple crimp for everything. And I got to say, it makes for much more pleasant terminals to handle also without having that flat mushed up insulator and barrel.

 

[Codaram]

I use a $30 klein crimper. Some gauge wires dont seem as tight as i'd like and others about destroy the connectors

 

[Pontiac787]

To dredge up an old thread... I'm looking for a non-ratcheting crimper for 22-10 gauge solderless terminals. In terms of value (bang for the buck) which of these would you all go with. To me the T&B seem to be the way to go.

Snap-on 29ACF - $75ish
Knipex 97 71 180 - $45
Thomas & Betts WT111M - $40ish
Channellock 909 - $25

 

[Pontiac787]

What is the difference between the T&B WT111M and WT112M?

 

[jmarkwolf]

I've got the Paladin ratcheting crimpers that I like a lot. Mine came with a few sets of dies for a variety of crimps.

Kinda pricey but you'll likely never need to buy another crimper for the typical color coded ring terminals and spade lugs for auto garage type of work.

 

[Dustball]

To dredge up an old thread... I'm looking for a non-ratcheting crimper for 22-10 gauge solderless terminals. In terms of value (bang for the buck) which of these would you all go with. To me the T&B seem to be the way to go.

Snap-on 29ACF - $75ish
Knipex 97 71 180 - $45
Thomas & Betts WT111M - $40ish
Channellock 909 - $25

For roughly the same price range, you can get this Astro ratcheting crimper set with interchangeable dies.

https://amzn.com/B0045CUMLQ

 

[Dustball]

What is the difference between the T&B WT111M and WT112M?

Non-insulated vs insulated terminals.

 

[Pontiac787]

For roughly the same price range, you can get this Astro ratcheting crimper set with interchangeable dies.

https://amzn.com/B0045CUMLQ

Thanks. I came across those last night. I'm thinking the Astro + the WT111m (for simplicity) will cover everything I need.

 

[rlitman]

What is the difference between the T&B WT111M and WT112M?

The WT111M has a large and small crimper with indenter, both made for non-insulated terminals. The small, for the A size (normally coded red in the insulated type) in the outboard position, and the large for the B & C sizes (what would be blue and yellow) on the inboard (closer to the pivot).

The WT112M has a small crimper with indenter (outboard), and a large non-insulated crimper (inboard).

The WT111M is similar to the Klein 1006, while the WT112M is more like the Klein 1005. However, the T&B jaws are a little thicker than the Klein.

Anyway, while the WT112M and Klein 1005 claim they can do non-insulated crimps, the outboard position is not really suitable for anything 16 gauge and up.

 

[Dustball]

Thanks. I came across those last night. I'm thinking the Astro + the WT111m (for simplicity) will cover everything I need.

I use my Astro crimper quite often and I've been very pleased with the ability to handle multiple types of terminals/ferrules with the interchangeable jaws.

 

[Jlarson]

I've had a few T&B's break at the rivets, a Snapon pair is my go to on my service truck 99% of the time. Unless I'm doing a whole harness or panel build then I'll get out one of our Pressmater ratchet crimpers.