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Custom barrel/DIY Parkerizing

Nortonscustom

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Jun 5, 2008
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A friend brought in a barrel to have me turn down and flute. Didn't take any pictures of the machine work because it wasn't anything of much interest. But thought I'd share my home brew parkerizing method that I've had great luck with over the years.


Here's the barrel after being sand blasted. Next give it a good cleaning with steel wool and mineral spirits. Final cleaning step is to spray it down with brake cleaner. Then plugged the bore, chamber and gas port with high temp plugs.

park%201.jpg



I start with 2 cheap D-cell batteries from the dollar store. You want the "heavy duty" non-alkaline type. Un-crimp the top with a needle nose pliers. Pull out the carbon rod in the center and throw it away, then scoop out the manganese. I crush it in a mortar and pestle. You don't have to but it mixes into the park solution faster it you do.


park%202.jpg



My park tank it just two stainless steel drywall (mud) tubs welded together. The solution is 1 gal of distilled water and about a quart Klean Phosporic Prep&Etch which I bought at Home Depot. Mixed in manganese and brought it up to 160*F on the hot plate.


park%203.jpg



I use a steel wool pad to see if the park solution is ready by stirring it in the solution. If it starts to bubble quickly it is ready. Hooked 2 stainless steel wires across the tank for the barrel to rest on and put the barrel in. If you get a good stream of bubbles coming off the part you know its clean enough and taking a good park.


park%204.jpg



Have a tub with clean water next to the park tank. After about 5 minutes I pull the barrel out and rinse it off in the tub to have a look at the color. Just never let it dry of while checking it. Put it back in the park for an another 5-7 minutes.

Bent a couple ss tig rods to use for handling the barrel while parking.

park%205.jpg



Once happy with the color I wash it off real good in cold water and immediately soak it in oil. Let it soak overnight.

park%206.jpg



And there you have it. One freshly parkerized rifle barrel ready to go back together. The whole parking process took about an hour and cost under $20. As you can see the results are a nice deep black. The solution can be saved and reused again for the next project.

park%207.jpg
 
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gungatim

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wow that's a different method than the plans I have been playing with, why the manganese in batteries, I thought they were carbon zinc?

I may try this way instead of the lye/sodium nitrate mix.

I see the commercial stuff says manganese on it too...
 

gungatim

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OK, had to look it up. just to be sure, batteries marked "heavy duty" are zinc-chloride, regular general purpose batteries are zinc-carbon correct?

I swear you learn the dammedest stuff on this forum...
 
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Nortonscustom

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OK, had to look it up. just to be sure, batteries marked "heavy duty" are zinc-chloride, regular general purpose batteries are zinc-carbon correct?

I swear you learn the dammedest stuff on this forum...

I just use the cheapest non-alkaline dry type battery from the dollar store. They usually say "heavy duty" or in this case the Sunbeam brand says "Super heady duty"
 
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Nortonscustom

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Guess I should ask if its possible to change the colors of the parkerizing ?


Depends on how long you keep it in the solution and how well the part takes the park. But you can take it out sooner for more of a gray finish. I've seen guys mess around with the mix to get different shades too.
 

R7237

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Have you found the finish to be better than Cerakote or similar? just seems so easy.
 

CoopVA

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Great recipe! Thanks for sharing. I'm going to have to try that. I've been using Shooters Solutions and it isn't cheap.... I'm planning on parking all the hardware in my Scout, so this will help out a lot!


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Jlbc212

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Don't just throw away those carbon rods. They're good for other fun.


An old friend of mine used the carbon rods to unstick frozen brake caliper bleeders. If I remember correctly, he would run a heavy wire from the car's positive battery terminal to one end of the carbon rod. He would then touch the other end of the carbon rod to the top of the bleeder screw. I never had to try it. I spray all my vehicles' bleed screws with PB blaster every time I take a wheel off.

Sorry! Now back to the main topic -
 
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Nortonscustom

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Great recipe! Thanks for sharing. I'm going to have to try that. I've been using Shooters Solutions and it isn't cheap.... I'm planning on parking all the hardware in my Scout, so this will help out a lot!


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I did a lot of the hardware, throttle linkage and misc parts on my Dodge M37 with good results. With the hardware keep stirring them around in the solution while parking to get a nice even finish.
 

CoopVA

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I did a lot of the hardware, throttle linkage and misc parts on my Dodge M37 with good results. With the hardware keep stirring them around in the solution while parking to get a nice even finish.


Yep. I do that with the firearms small parts. This is my set up. It's two stainless tanks on a two burner camp stove. One tank holds the solution, the other has water for the first rinse.

5a16422c1c6ed81b99593cc16efa643d.jpg



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larry4406

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Yep. I do that with the firearms small parts. This is my set up. It's two stainless tanks on a two burner camp stove. One tank holds the solution, the other has water for the first rinse.

5a16422c1c6ed81b99593cc16efa643d.jpg



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More details on this set up please.
 

nortonscustoms

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Wow that's a sweet setup! Lids and tank drains are a great idea. If I did it often enough it would be nice to make a setup like that.
 

CoopVA

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More details on this set up please.


Got the tanks here: I don't remember paying that much, but it was over six years ago when I got them...

http://stainlesssteelcreations.net/parkerizing-tank--wlid--40quot-x-6quot-x-64066.html

The burner is similar to this one. I can't find the exact one I got. Any double or triple burner camp stove would work.

http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/outdoor-gourmet-double-burner-fry-cart/pid-27751

The thermometers are similar to these stainless candy/deep fry thermometers:

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/tay...robe-thermometer-with-pan-clip/9136084J8.html

Other than that, it's a standard Parkerizing set up...






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CoopVA

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Wow that's a sweet setup! Lids and tank drains are a great idea. If I did it often enough it would be nice to make a setup like that.


The drains are a must have. I can dump the solution straight into the bucket for storage immediately with little to no mess. I was doing it once or twice a month there for a while. Getting ready to use them a lot for Scout and Harley parts & hardware...


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rottdogsparky

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Any idea where the Parkerizing rates in relation to other coatings? Hardness? Rust resistance? Cool? Tacticool ness?
 

toplessHO

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Ive been doing a similar coating called Ephos
Most of the key to longevity is the oil used immediately after.
With that said I use their proprietary oil thats very high in the salt spray tests.
I went to the commercial kitchen supply place and bought stainless tubs of varying shapes and sizes.Pyrex and corning cookware works too but is very breakable.
 

toplessHO

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What happens if the parts dry up between rinse and the solution?

you will get a streaking sometimes a wisp of white deposit and a line of rust
other times molting.
Its hard to rinse right away because the items can be too hot to handle(140* +)
thats why its important to have the rinse water and oil as ready as possible.Ive found that a mister bottle of WD40 works pretty good,wipe it all off after its cooled and then do the proper oil soak. This is me so others report how they do this.
 

CoopVA

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you will get a streaking sometimes a wisp of white deposit and a line of rust

other times molting.

Its hard to rinse right away because the items can be too hot to handle(140* +)

thats why its important to have the rinse water and oil as ready as possible.Ive found that a mister bottle of WD40 works pretty good,wipe it all off after its cooled and then do the proper oil soak. This is me so others report how they do this.


I pretty much do the exact same thing.

The second tub on my set up is the hot rinse with distilled water. The parts go in there immediately after the reaction stops in the solution tank. Then I use a spray bottle of WD 40 and thoroughly douche it. Wipe it off, then a soak overnight in motor oil.


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CoopVA

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Any idea where the Parkerizing rates in relation to other coatings? Hardness? Rust resistance? Cool? Tacticool ness?


I don't know all the technical differences, but, I can say that in my experience, Parkerizing stands up better than blueing and duracoat. At least the duracoat I had done to one of my rifles. The duracoat chipped off at the muzzle. The blueing requires more maintenance. The military has been using parkerized finishes on their firearms for a long time...

I like the look of parkerizing better than all the other finishes, except for a nice blue job on a high end revolver or shotgun...

Tacticool? Never heard of her...


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Ameshel

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What's the easiest way to open the D battery? Use a pipe cutter ? This looks like a cool way to treat some homemade blades I am doing. Thanks for the info can't wait to try it. Andy


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk, hobbiest ,Hobart 140 mig welder, Hobart ac/dc stick, miller 250 sycrowave tig, thermal dynamics plasma, Chicago electric 180 mig ( modified of course) , Powermatic/Everede mill.
 

rottdogsparky

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Tacticool refers to what's currently "hot" not necessarily best practice.

This sounds like a great project for a weekend, so anyone do this yet? Start up costs are the tubs, thermometer, Batteries , something to store old chemicals in?
 
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Nortonscustom

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What's the easiest way to open the D battery? Use a pipe cutter ? This looks like a cool way to treat some homemade blades I am doing. Thanks for the info can't wait to try it. Andy


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk, hobbiest ,Hobart 140 mig welder, Hobart ac/dc stick, miller 250 sycrowave tig, thermal dynamics plasma, Chicago electric 180 mig ( modified of course) , Powermatic/Everede mill.

You don't need a pipe cutter or anything like that. Just peel back the crimp at the top (side with the little bump on it) with a pair of pliers. Then pull the top off. It's super easy. I can post a couple of pictures tomorrow after work.
 

toplessHO

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I have a question regarding the barrel and why the inside isnt treated as well?
wouldnt it be beneficial to treat the inside as well? I dont think the parkerizing
has that much film thickness to change the bore enough to matter and a couple shots
later only the rifling would be coated. If that was a concern a quick hone would fix that.
 

Ameshel

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Thanks nortonscustom I can't wait to try this , I will give it a try latter this week thanks .


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk, hobbiest ,Hobart 140 mig welder, Hobart ac/dc stick, miller 250 sycrowave tig, thermal dynamics plasma, Chicago electric 180 mig ( modified of course) , Powermatic/Everede mill.
 

nortonscustoms

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ToplessHO,

That barrel has a chrome lined chamber and bore. No need to park it. I believe the park process may even damage the chrome but could be wrong.
 

CoopVA

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ToplessHO,

That barrel has a chrome lined chamber and bore. No need to park it. I believe the park process may even damage the chrome but could be wrong.


As far as I know, the parking will not affect chrome, nor will it stick to it. I had a barrel that the plug fell out of, and it parked the inside, as it was not chrome lined. I thought I may have screwed up big time, but I went ahead and used it anyway. There were absolutely no issues with it at all. It shot well... Cleaned up easy too. I may leave the plugs out next time on purpose...


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bgarrett

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I have a bunch of Harley parts from WWII that are NOS and the parkerization is green. Never heard of black.
What are 'stainless steel dryway tubs'?
 
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