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Cut off lift posts

tosic

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Nov 22, 2024
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Hey guys,

did anybody ever cut off the top part of a lift, especially a single post or a hydraulic 2 post lift?

I’m assuming it would be completely fine because the cylinder is lifting from the ground up and the lift post just serves as a rail.
As long as there’s no welded or bolted top you should be fine right? You’d just have to watch out to not lift too far.

Looking for input.

PS: I’d like a mobile single post lift but its post is just a bit too high for my garage.
 
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pbon

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I would try to rig up a trigger wire to stop the lift when a car on it gets too close to the ceiling. It can be tough to see the car roof and ceiling at the same time.

Single posts block access to some of the underside so they would not be my first choice, but the blockage depends on what work you want to do. I had a fairly short floor plate 2 post for 9 years that I liked and it was inexpensive — Atlas BP8000, but Atlas is now part of another company and I forget the name.

Structural integrity of posts vary so I’d ask the manufacturer. But I think you are right that if there are no signs of reinforcement then you can cut. If there is reinforcement you may be able to replace it with something else but the lift maker likely won’t approve or warranty it.
 
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tosic

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Thanks :)

As I’m not willing to refresh my concrete floor, any bolted lift isn’t an option unfortunately.

Do you think a 4 post lift with bridge jacks actually is a better overall choice? These lifts would fit in my garage without cutting but they need more steps to free the suspension.
 

dave*99

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Hey guys,

did anybody ever cut off the top part of a lift, especially a single post or a hydraulic 2 post lift?

I’m assuming it would be completely fine because the cylinder is lifting from the ground up and the lift post just serves as a rail.
As long as there’s no welded or bolted top you should be fine right? You’d just have to watch out to not lift too far.

Looking for input.

PS: I’d like a mobile single post lift but its post is just a bit too high for my garage.
What type of work do you plan on cars on your lift? I used to track a car on road courses. After every event, the wheels came off, brakes bled, suspension inspected etc. I have a 2 post lift. I would not be happy with a 4 post and bridge jack for my applications.
YMMV.

How high is your ceiling?
 
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tosic

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What type of work do you plan on cars on your lift? I used to track a car on road courses. After every event, the wheels came off, brakes bled, suspension inspected etc. I have a 2 post lift. I would not be happy with a 4 post and bridge jack for my applications.
YMMV.

How high is your ceiling?
I’m doing regular maintenance and almost any occurring repairs on family cars. And I’m planning to buy a classic car as a just for fun.

My ceiling is about 8 - 8 1/2 ft. So it’s really just about being much more convenient and safe than jack and stands tbh.
 

dave*99

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I’m doing regular maintenance and almost any occurring repairs on family cars. And I’m planning to buy a classic car as a just for fun.

My ceiling is about 8 - 8 1/2 ft. So it’s really just about being much more convenient and safe than jack and stands tbh.
Is there attic or a room above the garage?
With an 8' ceiling you will not be standing under the car.
How about this scissors lift:
1740943240005.png

or
1740943485260.png
or Quick Jack
1740943558341.png
 
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tosic

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No room above.

Scissor lifts aren’t an option unfortunately. They block even more of the undercarriage :(

Well I do know that I won’t be standing - but it’s all better than crawling 😀
 

finn

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No room above.

Scissor lifts aren’t an option unfortunately. They block even more of the undercarriage :(

Well I do know that I won’t be standing - but it’s all better than crawling 😀
I have both a couple of four post lifts and a two post lift.

I don’t see where the four post lifts (with a bridge jerk, or even just a jack tray and a bottle jack) really impedes access to the undercarriage. Wheels are easily removed for access to brakes and wheel bearings, the oil pan and filters are easily reached, etc, plus, it’s much easier to load the lift and get in and out of the drivers seat.

I agree with the previous posters. that some sort of mid rise lift might be best with only 8+ foot ceilings. With 8’ ceilings you’re not really going to have easy access to the middle of the car no matter what type lift you have.

Perhaps a max jack mid rise lift? That solution would let you move the lift out of the way for the 99% of the time that you aren’t working under the car.
 
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tosic

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Well I said those scissor mid rise lifts block quite a bit. And I’m really not sure about my concrete and for my peace do mind I’d have to do a whole new floor for a 2 post or a max jax.

That’s why I initially stated 4 post vs 1 post.

So seemingly most of you guys would favor a 4 post out of these :)
 
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tosic

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Single post lifts don’t have these cables, the question is only about the structural integrity of the post itself ;)
 

pbon

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With 8.5’ ceilings, a max jax 2 post would be my choice for working on cars. I prefer 2 post though I currently have 4 post because my carriage house floor is wood. 4 post has front and rear cross bars and ramps that get in the way. The ramps also add thickness you must duck under to get to the car underside. I have 2 bridge jacks but they also get in the way more than the arms of a 2 post. You can do a lot with a 4 post and they are better for storage but you won’t be storing anything other than maybe a Miata and even then it would have to be another low car underneath, with 8.5’ ceiling.

Scissor lifts also get in the way.
 

kaymccampbell

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Unless your heart is set on a single post, I'd go with a midrise scissor. Mine is an Atlas Kwikbay 7K, bought from Greg Smith. They are now Atlas Equipment. https://www.atlasautoequipment.com/products/ateattd-7k-kwik-fpd/
Here's an installed pic. You can see I have a low ceiling. It will lift all our cars to touch the drywall, if we were wanting to ruin both the car and the house. I buried mine in the floor. It's not necessary. And they have such a huge base that you can use them on vastly substandard concrete.
IMG_20220423_182141 (1).jpg
 

Shadowdog500

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Why not get a low rise 2 post lift that is made exactly for your situation.

Here is the one that BendPack makes but there are others that make them.

I know there is someone on this forum with a low rise lift that really likes it. He has a reclining chair on wheels that looks very comfortable to work while sitting in. It almost looks like a comfortable office chair would work great.


IMG-3869.webp
 
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575cat

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i would cut the joists first before crawling around like a monkey other wise pointless
 

Shadowdog500

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As some have said, there isn’t anything that can be done on a two post lift that can’t be done on a four post lift.

I’d like to add that there isn’t anything that can be done on either lift that can’t be done on jack stands
The thing is which is best to work under, I’ve worked under two post lifts, four post lifts, and jack stands, and have even been in a pit. The two post lifts are the clear winner for me because you can get direct access to everything once the car is lifted.

The four post lift comes in second because you need to contort yourself around the ramps to get access to certain items even with bridge jacks.

.
 
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tosic

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This gives some perspective for the low ceiling. He used carriage doors on his garage.

Did you post a picture? It doesn’t show unfortunately 😅

Seems like a Max Jax or a low ceiling 2 post might actually be an option but I would definetely want to have my floor checked by some specialist before.
That’s the advantage of single or four post - set up an go.
 

dave*99

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Did you post a picture? It doesn’t show unfortunately 😅

Seems like a Max Jax or a low ceiling 2 post might actually be an option but I would definetely want to have my floor checked by some specialist before.
That’s the advantage of single or four post - set up an go.
It's a youtube video. Is anyone able to view it?
Tom's garage, season 2 episode 3.

"Car Lift for Low Ceiling Garage"​

 
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tosic

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Ah yes, now I see :)

BUT my ceiling is about 8 ft without any door parts on top :(((
 

dave*99

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I know there is someone on this forum with a low rise lift that really likes it. He has a reclining chair on wheels that looks very comfortable to work while sitting in. It almost looks like a comfortable office chair would work great.
Ah yes a recliner, I see.
1741023589164.png
 

gizardlizard

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Agree with Shadowdog 100%. I don’t have any pit experience but have worked off jack stands for years and tried a 4 poster twice and hated it. Two post for the win.
 

ludakris04

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Why not get a low rise 2 post lift that is made exactly for your situation.

Here is the one that BendPack makes but there are others that make them.

I know there is someone on this forum with a low rise lift that really likes it. He has a reclining chair on wheels that looks very comfortable to work while sitting in. It almost looks like a comfortable office chair would work great.


IMG-3869.webp
This says its for 9 foot ceilings.
 

kngelv

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I was in this exact situation last June. I have an 8'6" ceiling. I ordered a MaxJax but found one side of my garage was only 3.5" deep. You need at least 4.5". I ended up with a four post Backyard Buddy. I have two bridge jacks. I changed my garage door track angle so it could skim the ceiling and I added a jack shaft opener. I have two of those angled stools that MaxJax sells and it works fine. I have no trouble doing 95% of the work that you can do on a two post. However it does take longer to set up bcause you have to think more about jack positioning than you would with a two post. I do major repairs on mine. I just had a second garage built with 12' ceilings. Can't wait to stand under the vehicles vs sitting.

James
 

ericm

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I was in this exact situation last June. I have an 8'6" ceiling. I ordered a MaxJax but found one side of my garage was only 3.5" deep. You need at least 4.5".

You can cut out a chunk of floor and pour a new footer. Lift installation manuals specify how large and deep it should be. Generally not all that large- way less than replacing the entire slab.
 
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tosic

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I thought of another option, to cut out a bit of concrete like, 1/2 ft deep, pour a new slab there and put in a self standing two post lift.

These are pretty common here in Europe and only need to be bolted to not tip over. They are able to stand and lift on their own steel frame. But just a bit too tall for my ceiling - with this micro pit they would fit.

Like this https://ravaglioli.com/product/2-post-lift-kps32/
Part of Rotary Solutions.


So I would have a very safe two post lift and would just need a bit of concrete and some drive over plywood to cover the arms.
 

dave*99

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If you changed your mind and are now willing to do some concrete work there are more options.

Like this:

 

firebirdparts

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Mine is the same way. I think the only 2-post style which doesn't have cables up top, is the type with the floor hump.
No. Pulleys on top are required with the floor hump. Can't push a rope.

In any case, it sounds like Post #1 was mis-typed and he was considering anything but a 2 post. I can see where a 4 post under an 8 foot ceiling just doesn't help you much. I've never been in that situation, though, I am just imagining.
 
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pbon

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Why not get a low rise 2 post lift that is made exactly for your situation.

Here is the one that BendPack makes but there are others that make them.

I know there is someone on this forum with a low rise lift that really likes it. He has a reclining chair on wheels that looks very comfortable to work while sitting in. It almost looks like a comfortable office chair would work great.


IMG-3869.webp
I would not buy the Grand Prix because you lose 6 inches of your limited height due to the massive crossbar. A max Jax would be better if the lift height is 48” or less. If over 56” then maybe the Grand Prix is better.
 
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tosic

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thank you guys for your input :)

So I thought over this and I came to the conclusion that a single post or one of these short scissor lifts actually seem to be the best options. I’d not have to perform any concrete work and they both don’t take up that much space as a 4 post does.

And I watched some videos where you can see that the scissor ramps don’t eat up that much access to the undercarriage. And you can get crossbars or real high rubber blocks to access under the panels.

So what do you think, scissor or single?
 

dave*99

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thank you guys for your input :)

So I thought over this and I came to the conclusion that a single post or one of these short scissor lifts actually seem to be the best options. I’d not have to perform any concrete work and they both don’t take up that much space as a 4 post does.

And I watched some videos where you can see that the scissor ramps don’t eat up that much access to the undercarriage. And you can get crossbars or real high rubber blocks to access under the panels.

So what do you think, scissor or single?
Scissors.
 
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