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Cute little steel angle

rslaback

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I'm having a hard time locating a piece of equal angle in steel with 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/16ish dimensions. Any suggestions before I give up and cut it out of a piece of 1"x 16 ga square tube?
 
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cannuck

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Shear it out of 16 ga. flat stock and press brake into angle. If loading is critical cut it across rolling direction (i.e. 48" direction of the 4'x8' sheet). Use maximum corner radius you needs can tolerate. Most sheet metal shops will have dies able to do this and will have galvanized or galvalum materials in stock.
 
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rslaback

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Shear it out of 16 ga. flat stock and press brake into angle. If loading is critical cut it across rolling direction (i.e. 48" direction of the 4'x8' sheet). Use maximum corner radius you needs can tolerate. Most sheet metal shops will have dies able to do this and will have galvanized or galvalum materials in stock.
It's going to get rolled into a ring so I need at least 36" which is more than my brake width
 

cannuck

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most sheet metal shops will have a much larger leaf brake, but to roll it I would think you want a very sharp inner radius (thus again do NOT do down grain or cracks are in your future). Still suggest you find a shop with a press brake and very small lower die and sharp upper die. How critical are the leg lengths? (as a<<3/4 bottom die is not all that common).
 

Tim in Indiana

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This might be an option. I know they have small scale tubing and flat but not sure about angle.

 

Copymutt

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You have the stock. Just cut to your needs. I never ponder where to buy when I have the resource. Or, are you contemplating a production scenario?
 

cannuck

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I have never see HR angle in less than 0.125 with 0.5 x 0.5 dimensions. You will have to break a sheared strip
 

engineer2

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Available in aluminum from McMaster-Carr.
Architectural 6063 Aluminum 90 Degree Angle, 1/16" Wall Thickness, 3/8" High x 3/8" Wide Outside, 4 Feet Long
 
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metlmunchr

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16ga galvanized sheet will be dead soft annealed and capable of being bent flat on itself (hemmed) without cracking regardless of whether the strip is cut across the sheet or along its length. This is a requirement for the ability to run a Pittsburgh lock on any edge.

Any duct shop with either a Roto-die brake or a Chicago Speedibender brake will have a lower bottoming die with a 1/2" opening width. That said, anyone with a 16ga leaf brake can form the angle by adjusting the position of the upper leaf such that it will form the angle with a near zero inside bend radius.
 

cannuck

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16ga galvanized sheet will be dead soft annealed and capable of being bent flat on itself (hemmed) without cracking regardless of whether the strip is cut across the sheet or along its length. This is a requirement for the ability to run a Pittsburgh lock on any edge.

Any duct shop with either a Roto-die brake or a Chicago Speedibender brake will have a lower bottoming die with a 1/2" opening width. That said, anyone with a 16ga leaf brake can form the angle by adjusting the position of the upper leaf such that it will form the angle with a near zero inside bend radius.
I work mostly with aluminum, so you can understand my aversion to bending down grain. That said, though: ALL steel that has been rolled has very specific grain orientation and is less suseptible to cracking on a sharp bend when following rolling direction. But, you are probably right that the OP can expect few if any problems with anything under 20 point carbon.

I didn't think of a roto die as I have never actually seen one, but dearly want to have one for my 400/12 brake. Is there a GJ go-fund-me page for tools for me??
 

ez-duzit

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I'm having a hard time locating a piece of equal angle in steel with 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/16ish dimensions. Any suggestions before I give up and cut it out of a piece of 1"x 16 ga square tube?
One of the basic principles of good design is to use materials that are readily available. If there is a viable reason for using a shape which is not commercially available, then you need to cut it down from a larger size.
 
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rslaback

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One of the basic principles of good design is to use materials that are readily available. If there is a viable reason for using a shape which is not commercially available, then you need to cut it down from a larger size.
It's a repair project for a snowblower chute ring. You'll have to take up your concerns about stock sizes with the 1990's engineers at Murray.

20230118_123415.jpg
 

engineer2

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The good news is replacement Murray snowblower chute rings are available.
The bad news is that there are many different part numbers.
 

MoonRise

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try ereplacementparts.com or jackssmallengines.com

If no luck locating an actual chute ring, maybe use some available 1/2 x 1/2 angle and just fit that in place or trim it down from 1/2" to your (desired?) 3/8" leg size.
 

VR6ix

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Why does it have to be angle, and why so thin? It's been a long time since I ran the old family snowblower and that was a 1980's tank.
Don't duplicate factory, make it simpler and more betterer... :ROFLMAO:
 
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rslaback

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Why does it have to be angle, and why so thin? It's been a long time since I ran the old family snowblower and that was a 1980's tank.
Don't duplicate factory, make it simpler and more betterer... :ROFLMAO:
The angle is to keep the welds out of the root where the retainer has to be able to run unobstructed. It's explained here.

 
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