Cutting and threading pipe.

[rharman]

Random thoughts.....

I'd suggest the approach of buying a ton of ******* and fittings.

I would be very afraid of bending black pipe.

A rental threader may or may not give you clean threads.

Not sure how clean the HF threader cuts.

 

[sberry]

3/4" pipe here is about $1.30 a foot. To do a perimeter of pipe around a 25' by 25' garage would cost about $130 just for the pipe assuming you used couplers and had no waist. But that doesn't include fittings or mounting hardware or any drops. Ok so if you did it in 1/2" for $1 a foot you can get the perimeter pipe for $105. That would give you 5 lengths of pipe lying on the ground.

This is part of what I am saying, 100 ft of 3/4 of in a 25 ft garage is pretty much amateur for lack of better wording and so it having to come out within a 1/4 of an inch That's not meant to be mean, its just an observation from seeing these types of installations. It doesn't mean the work isn't good or that it wont work or is a bad job but it usually doesn't help and is more complicated than it needs to be.
I do use ******* and pipe from the box store and I have a power threader and a truck and still do as much as I can ready fit.

 

[600SL]

This is part of what I am saying, 100 ft of 3/4 of in a 25 ft garage is pretty much amateur for lack of better wording and so it having to come out within a 1/4 of an inch That's not meant to be mean, its just an observation from seeing these types of installations. It doesn't mean the work isn't good or that it wont work or is a bad job but it usually doesn't help and is more complicated than it needs to be.
I do use ******* and pipe from the box store and I have a power threader and a truck.

I do agree as amateurish as far as making money as a plumber. And 3/4" as well as pluming a perimeter for a 25 x 25 garage is over the top. And in my case of a 30 x 48 garage I could have saved ~ $100 in fittings by standing the pipes off the walls and dropping straight down to a T fitting with a QD outlet. I could have saved another $100 by just putting the QD outlets on elbows and forgo the drain valves. I could have not painted the pipe and saved an additional $50. I could have not used Pervost safety QD's and saved another $125. I could have saved an additional $70 not using 300PSI rated pipe and fittings from my compressor to my regulator. Using Chinese fitting would have saved another $100.00. I could have also save another $75 by going with 1/2" pipe over 3/4"

This job cost over $1700 in materials and tools for. Figure about $1500 in materials. So in the end if you total up all those savings it could have been done for ~ $1500 - 100 - 100 - 50 - 125 - 70 - 100 - 75 = $880. And if you include that I didn't have to purchase a threading tool for $153 from HF the savings could have been $1030.

But the real savings would have been if I had to pay someone to install it the way I did. Custom cutting pipe to size to place each outlet exactly on center to the low part of the wall corrugations, bending over my conduit and bring the drops close in to the wall so I don't hook things on them as I walk by, dropping a 5" offset into my end walls. All that work would have easily added $1000 to the installation.

So in the end the cost real cost to me was ~ $1000 to have the job done the way I wanted it. I feel it was worth it. But when you add in the cost of labor this would have been ~ $2000 more and this is why professional plumbers will never quote this.

 

[sberry]

I'd suggest the approach of buying a ton of ******* and fittings.

I would be very afraid of bending black pipe.

A ton of fittings is a problem. I plumbed a Buds 30x40 auto shop with 90 ft of pipe and about a dozen fittings, maybe another half a dozen in drains all common elbow and T.
There is nothing wrong with bending pipe but it makes it hade to tighten leaks due to the fact it has to be indexed. Part of this is the reason we see so many leaks. Guys on ladders trying to tighten clusters of fittings, I agree that they may be cheap and it probably doesn't help but they never get tight or loosen along the rest of the install.
600 did a good install, the learning curve is really hi in something like this as most people don't get to do it often enough to relax and lots are done so occasional.
I done as many wrong as right, maybe more, still fixing them on occasion. Today I really try to copy the masters more than improve on them, I doubt the plumma has a bender on the truck
In the end it works and will repeat the learning curve is hi but its worth noting that different techniques for different material. There is often no net loss to bends with simple electric and some pipe.

 

[sberry]

I am a bit more process and my helper a bit more goal oriented. I really work at coming up with a scheme where as many parts are common as we can. We got in the middle of something a while back and when the daylight hit the view was different and it was nice to be able to back track as the pieces were typical.

 

[sberry]

I do agree as amateurish as far as making money as a plumber. And 3/4" as well as pluming a perimeter for a 25 x 25 garage is over the top. And in my case of a 30 x 48 garage I could have saved ~ $100 in fittings by standing the pipes off the walls and dropping straight down to a T fitting with a QD outlet. I could have saved another $100 by just putting the QD outlets on elbows and forgo the drain valves. I could have not painted the pipe and saved an additional $50. I could have not used Pervost safety QD's and saved another $125. I could have saved an additional $70 not using 300PSI rated pipe and fittings from my compressor to my regulator. Using Chinese fitting would have saved another $100.00. I could have also save another $75 by going with 1/2" pipe over 3/4"

This job cost over $1700 in materials and tools for. Figure about $1500 in materials. So in the end if you total up all those savings it could have been done for ~ $1500 - 100 - 100 - 50 - 125 - 70 - 100 - 75 = $880. And if you include that I didn't have to purchase a threading tool for $153 from HF the savings could have been $1030.

But the real savings would have been if I had to pay someone to install it the way I did. Custom cutting pipe to size to place each outlet exactly on center to the low part of the wall corrugations, bending over my conduit and bring the drops close in to the wall so I don't hook things on them as I walk by, dropping a 5" offset into my end walls. All that work would have easily added $1000 to the installation.

So in the end the cost real cost to me was ~ $1000 to have the job done the way I wanted it. I feel it was worth it. But when you add in the cost of labor this would have been ~ $2000 more and this is why professional plumbers will never quote this.

I agree, you got what you wanted and as I mentioned the learning curve is super hi. It wont hit you today but you will ponder it.

But when you add in the cost of labor this would have been ~ $2000 more and this is why professional plumbers will never quote this

I would quote that if someone was willing to pay.

 

[sberry]

The labor is moot here, really doesn't matter and none of this was taking shoes from the baby, doing what you wanted to do is important. Its as good of hobby or pastime as any and good practice of skillset and a chance to collect a few tools.
The threader comes in handy on occasion. I have a couple hand ones in small size and adjustable which I never really use but I hit a 1 1/2 galv water line a while back. We had to make a thread in the ditch maybe,,, I don't recall the details except for a union, I think it snapped at a coupling and we either cut it off with a sawzall or uncovered enough to remove a section.

 

[600SL]

I agree, you got what you wanted and as I mentioned the learning curve is super hi. It wont hit you today but you will ponder it.
I would quote that if someone was willing to pay.

I saw the same discussions on my EMT conduit scheme. But the electrical inspector was very impressed with it. I kind of followed the same rules there. Keeping the pipes tight in to the walls and out of the way.

As far as bending it was the first time I ever bent black pipe and I only limited it to those areas that were easy to change. The indexing of those bends was actually no more difficult that indexing 2 45° elbows in fact even easier in that there was only one connection to be indexed. I also made use of street 45° elbows to come out of the "T" fittings on top again to limit number of connections. There are some pros and cons to this in that indexing is easier with two connections verses one but it also provides two leak points.

Yes it is a lot more work.

 

[sberry]

I did read the other thread and it looks nice. I agree an inspector should be thrilled and nothing beats steel building and piped wiring. The well fit air adds a nice touch.
We do use a few street fittings and you can run a bit in the male end for the compulsive types to clean them up.

 

[600SL]

I did read the other thread and it looks nice. I agree an inspector should be thrilled and nothing beats steel building and piped wiring. The well fit air adds a nice touch.
We do use a few street fittings and you can run a bit in the male end for the compulsive types to clean them up.

Wiring was significantly more difficult despite the fact that I was working with much lighter materials.

The wiring thread is here.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269130

 

[C96]

600SL, pay little attention to the ramblings of some here. Many of us do appreciate the custom work you have done. You chose the black pipe and EMT which in my opinion is the best for air and electric in a shop / garage environment. Your execution of the work is of extreme quality and you should be proud. You could have taken the easy way and slapped up some blue plastic tubing that a lot of guys use when they don’t want to take the time, or have the skill and ability to install the hard pipe. Many look at what you have done as a waste of time and energy, but the real craftsmen take notice and appreciate your efforts.

Congratulations on a nice clean job well done and thanks for sharing.

 

[Shootingblanks]

I used a good tripod, chain vise, and hand threader. I use all ridgid stuff because I had a friend that had all the stuff I needed. Use plenty of cutting oil and debur. I set an oil pan below the black pipe as I cut the threads to collect all the shavings.

My outdated install thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174658

Recent Video:



Nice job on the wiring of your shop.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Recent Video:



Nice job on the wiring of your shop.

FYI, PB says your video has been renamed and doesn't work, atleast not for me.

 

[Shootingblanks]

FYI, PB says your video has been renamed and doesn't work, atleast not for me.

Thanks for heads up.






One of these links should work. Not the best video taken with Ipad but it's currently 12 degrees Farenheit out.

 

[600SL]

600SL, pay little attention to the ramblings of some here. Many of us do appreciate the custom work you have done. You chose the black pipe and EMT which in my opinion is the best for air and electric in a shop / garage environment. Your execution of the work is of extreme quality and you should be proud. You could have taken the easy way and slapped up some blue plastic tubing that a lot of guys use when they don’t want to take the time, or have the skill and ability to install the hard pipe. Many look at what you have done as a waste of time and energy, but the real craftsmen take notice and appreciate your efforts.

Congratulations on a nice clean job well done and thanks for sharing.

Thanks C96.

I'm well used to this kind of forum chatter. See the first 20 posts or so parts of this link:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum...10-engine-swap-questions-m120-into-380sl.html

And then see these videos.

The solution will yield to persistence.