Cutting down a Snap On Allen Socket

[DPDISXR4Ti]

What year A4? I have a B5 A4

It's a 2002, so the first year of the B6. I've tried my own car as well as a couple B6's I've come across at the junkyard. So far the only time I got the bolts out was on a car that had it's rotors recently replaced. From the factory, they're in there to the German torque spec, Gutintite.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Another thing I do in tight clearance areas is use a serpentine belt tool. This is similar to what the other poster is saying bout the flat stock. The serpentine belt tool is basically flat stock with a 3/8" (or 1/2") drive head welded on. Often it gives just that extra bit of clearance that you need.

Interesting idea as I've thought about getting one of these a couple times but the quality on them often looks suspect. And clearly this is an application which would fail anything of marginal quality. Does anyone recommend any one brand in particular as standing out from a strength standpoint?

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I've machined sockets in the lathe w zero issue. I'd be surprised if a quality carbide insert wouldn't cut it easily.

I own a Logan 820, so this would be the slickest way to cut the bit down and have it look like it came from the factory as a stubby.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

"A 3/8" cast iron pipe would be the one to try,"

No, black iron. Cast iron would snap like a toothpick.

My bad, I meant black iron. I presume the galvanized stuff also sold at Home Depot is of equal strength, yes?

 

[KnurledNut]

Have you tried taking the rotor off without removing the bracket?

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

The a4 calipers are the ones which the bolt is facing inward underneath the bracket that's on the underside if the car, right? If I explained that right lol. Not enough room for a ratchet let alone a full size Allen key. Or am I thinking of another audi?

That's more or less it. If you search the Audi forums there's lots of threads on the topic. At some point (2007-ish) VW/Audi switched to a triple-square bolt-head for this application, so at least you get to use a little beefier bit with some more grip.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Have you tried taking the rotor off without removing the bracket?

Yes. Trust me, it doesn't clear.

 

[johninct]

I cut a Snap-On like you would like to do with a hacksaw many years ago. Another idea, get a 18" Snap-On 3/8" drive breaker bar.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Is there a way you can remove the snap on bit and cut down a cheap Allen key to fit in the socket for the job?

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Buying a quality Snap-On hex bit socket... only to put in a cheap hex bit. Defies logic... maybe not GJ logic where tools are gold.

Dude you could have had that bit cut and bracket removed by now.

 

[WittHay]

Run across tight bolts on German equipment a lot. They put a lot of Loctite on their fasteners. Sometimes you need to put a small amount of heat on the bolts to soften up the Loctite. You probably don't want to do that on your Audi.

For a 8mm hex just put a small pipe on a 3/8 breaker bar with a good quality hex socket.

 

[T45]

If the issue is loctite, RTFM and remove loctite as appropriate (read up on methods). 3/8 breakers come in 18, 12, 10, 8 and universal jack handle lengths. :

 

[WittHay]

Didn't mean to give advice on expensive German cars. Last hex bolts i removed were 17mm which were supposed to be torqued to 300 ft.lbs. Felt like 600 ft.lbs. 8mm hex bolts should come off with 3/8 drive tools.

 

[md21722]

Interesting idea as I've thought about getting one of these a couple times but the quality on them often looks suspect. And clearly this is an application which would fail anything of marginal quality. Does anyone recommend any one brand in particular as standing out from a strength standpoint?

I have had an el cheap-o from Auto Zone for many years. I actually purchased it for its intended use, but came up with other reasons to use it over the years. As a bonus, the low profile sockets are also handy. At times when I didn't have a universal 3/8" drive socket, I used my short universal with one of its low profile sockets. I have even put a pipe on it for extra leverage doing things like Jeep 4.0 oil filter housing bolts that use a T60 and are very tight and very little clearance to the frame rail. I rate the quality as acceptable.

If your car came to me and clearance was that bad I would have tried the serpentine belt tool with a 3/8" Stahlwille 8mm hex driver right away.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Buying a quality Snap-On hex bit socket... only to put in a cheap hex bit. Defies logic... maybe not GJ logic where tools are gold.

Dude you could have had that bit cut and bracket removed by now.

Gold, no. Make a custom tool as well as keep the other tool original for warranty, why not? It's got nothing to do with keeping it pretty, if you can avoid hacking up a warrantyable tool and use a cheap tool you probably wouldn't be using anyways, why not? What's the harm?

 

[sberry]

Maybe it's me but I wouldn't mind understanding why I would buy a 30$ socket so it's "warrantable" and save it and then do the actual work with a cheap tool?

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

I've had to cut a few in the past to complete a job after twisting the tip of the allen. They all worked great and are still cut since I never got a replacement bit.

 

[gdocktor3]

Maybe it's me but I wouldn't mind understanding why I would buy a 30$ socket so it's "warrantable" and save it and then do the actual work with a cheap tool?

This may fall into the tool polisher category...

Unless we're talking about cutting a $30 Allen socket, which may void the warranty.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

They'll cover a modified he'd socket bit as long as the socket itself is untouched?

 

[dr_clyde]

I've cut into my snappy bit sockets to get the job done. My dealer would replace the bit if I asked him to.

I don't know why this is even a debate.

 

[T45]

I'm starting to think we're all overthinking this...

there is time, money, brain damage...

pick one to economize on :

 

[shawhite]

Personally for a caliper bracket bolt I would use a regular Allen key and a floor jack to break it loose. No breaker bar needed

 

[Shaners256]

I'm starting to think we're all overthinking this...

there is time, money, brain damage...

pick one to economize on :

Seriously, this isn't a hard job at all. Tap the socket in to seat the socket in the screw, put an extension on the socket to clear the stabilizer link and if you need, tap on the ratchet handle with a deadblow. The only thing I can think is maybe the 1/2" drive socket doesn't fit properly under the stabilizer link, or he's not using an extension. I really want to see a picture of the socket installed in the bolt showing how it won't fit.

Since this is on his car, I would advise against using heat on the bolt, as that would go straight to the wheel bearing, and those are complete ***** to replace.

 

[nbpt100]

When ever I have to cut down a tool I always hate to do it to a high priced tool. Psychologically I would rather cut down a Pittsburgh or a Stanley than a Snap On. It just feels better.

Hey, OP, I hope you got those pesky bolt out!

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Hey, OP, I hope you got those pesky bolt out!

No time; I've been too busy reading and researching all these suggestions!

Kidding of course. There's no urgency to the project - I have no plan of tackling it until warmer weather in the Spring.

But I like all the creative input. Specific to that, I'll re-ask the question about a recommendation for a good quality Serpentine belt tool. I read the reviews for the Horrible Freight version, and indeed there were a couple negative reviews, one indicating that it failed on the first use. I could totally see one failing on this application.

 

[bubinga]

I've cut into my snappy bit sockets to get the job done. My dealer would replace the bit if I asked him to.

I don't know why this is even a debate.

because they look for an excuse sometimes.
I've had it happen.
("Oh.....................If you Wouldn't have ground/cut it....................")

 

[bubinga]

That Hazet socket seems like a nice stout little tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hazet-Tools...mm-/360731709736?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

 

[bubinga]

No time; I've been too busy reading and researching all these suggestions!

Kidding of course. There's no urgency to the project - I have no plan of tackling it until warmer weather in the Spring.

But I like all the creative input. Specific to that, I'll re-ask the question about a recommendation for a good quality Serpentine belt tool. I read the reviews for the Horrible Freight version, and indeed there were a couple negative reviews, one indicating that it failed on the first use. I could totally see one failing on this application.

That Hazet socket seems like a nice stout little tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hazet-Tools...mm-/360731709736?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

I'd get that short Hazet

 

[sberry]

Since this is on his car, I would advise against using heat on the bolt, as that would go straight to the wheel bearing, and those are complete ***** to replace.

Where did you learn to do this work?

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

They'll cover a modified he'd socket bit as long as the socket itself is untouched?

most likely, but if not who cares? A new bit is a few dollars

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

OK, here's a question. Is there a specialized audi tool for this exact job?

 

[md21722]

Where did you learn to do this work?

I was wondering the same thing! The wheel bearing is pretty far away from the caliper carrier bolts.

 

[padroo]

I have cut plenty of allen wrenches wit an abrasive wheel with no problem.

It is easier if it is a company owned tool. Lol

 

[ssdave]

Last time I had this kind of problem on a car with a hex socket and clearance, I just put a 6 point wrench on the socket, inserted the socket into the bolt, and turned the socket with the wrench. Had to put a cheater on the wrench, but it worked.

Then again, I also broke a wrench recently doing this with an allen wrench and a drain plug. The manufacturer warrantied it and sent me a new wrench last week.

Oh, and my vote for cutting down the bit if you do is use a dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. I do that all the time to make replacement bits for my bit sockets from key stock. I tried turning one down on my lathe one time, they're so hard it ruined the lathe bit.

 

[WWheeler]

I cut down hex bits & allen wrenches on the band saw and a quick deburr on the grinder.

 

[stage20]

Socket head cap bolts are pretty are relatively common on brake calipers and brackets. The Germain car manufacturers seems to really like them.

Look on the bright side, it is better than a Torx bolt which are also sometimes used.

I'd rather deal with the torx. Neither are my favorites....Sure would be nice for folks to just use a damn bolt with 6 or 12 sides. Lol

 

[stage20]

8mm Allen key cut down to your specified length, 8mm wrench, pipe to fit over 8mm wrench. If the wrench breaks oh well.

 

[DPDISXR4Ti]

OK, here's a question. Is there a specialized audi tool for this exact job?

Not really. I think this Assenmacher socket S3049-8 is as close as you would come to a "factory" tool for the job....

https://www.asttool.com/detail_closeup.php?image=S_3049-8.jpg

As you can see, it's "natively" a Stahlwille p/n 1030109

As for heat, yes, it's a very effective tool for situations such as this. I bought one of these a couple years back and I have effectively used it several times...
https://www.boltbusterinc.com/

 

[Mr_B]

Just make a stout tool from a decent bit and a budget socket in preferred drive size and trim both to be as stout as needed .

 

[sb7979]

I'm just not sure I want to spend $25 for another tool I'll use so infrequently.

I bought one of these a couple years back and I have effectively used it several times...
https://www.boltbusterinc.com/

Not sure you want to spend $25 on an infrequent use tool, but you spent $550 on a "bolt heater"???