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Cutting down a Snap On Allen Socket

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DPDISXR4Ti

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Not sure you want to spend $25 on an infrequent use tool, but you spent $550 on a "bolt heater"???
:wtf:

Actually, I organized a group buy and got it for $275. But that was several years ago before I had even given any thought to doing a brake job on this car.

But nice try at a diss. :D
 
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Shaners256

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Where did you learn to do this work?

By hanging out on Audi forums and working on my own car. Also, mechanical engineer by trade.

You are probably right about the heat though, unless you get ridiculous, it shouldn't be an issue. Also, there is a CV boot right there and the rubber on the stabilizer link that should have issues before the bearing ever does. I'm just a little careful in that area because you need to take the entire cast iron upright off the car to press out the wheel bearing.

I do realize the thread is really about how to best cut a hex socket down, so I will refrain from commenting further. I was just trying to help with the actual issue at hand.

Good luck DPDISXR4Ti.
 

nbpt100

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I'd rather deal with the torx. Neither are my favorites....Sure would be nice for folks to just use a damn bolt with 6 or 12 sides. Lol

In most cases it would not matter to me, hex or torx socket.... but relative to this problem it may be tricky or add complicaton to cut down a TYPICAL Torx key to fit the spacial conditions.

I know Manufacturing engineers like Torx head screws for a lot of good reasons.
 
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DPDISXR4Ti

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Also, there is a CV boot right there and the rubber on the stabilizer link that should have issues before the bearing ever does.

Indeed it's all the rubber stuff in that tightly confined neighborhood which would be more of a concern if a torch was used to heat the bolt head. That's the reason that the induction heater is such a great tool for applications like this.

VW/Audi has largely moved away from Torx and Allen head bolts in favor of 12-pt XZN heads. You get more metal (greater strength) in the bit for the same size bolt head - for example, where previously a 8mm Allen head was used, now you get a 10mm XZN. Plus, you get more points of contact between tool and bolt, so it's better for assembly-line work.
 

sberry

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My neighbor came over to borrow a T55, couldn't find it for some reason. Bought one, a new set came with one and havnt used it since. Several years ago.
I understand if I was a line mechanic for a dealer but then a guy probably wouldn't be asking. With this kind of 1 off work on a single car you own make do and get it done. It isn't worth the effort of coming up with something special for a 5 minute chore if there is an easy way around it.
I don't buy an induction heater for this reason, I have high degree of expertise with a torch and am used to it, so fast.
 
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Shaners256

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Sparkyjack

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Shaners256;6252240I'm just a little careful in that area because you need to take the entire cast iron upright off the car to press out the wheel bearing. .[/QUOTE said:
What series A4? (While I think you mentioned it I could not find it)
ECS and harbor freight sell a FWD bearing kit that will extract the bearing and insert the new one without pulling the upright.

I've done this task on a b5q and while I've not done it on my B3q I'm pretty confident it's possible with this tool.

That being said I think the B8 has moved to bolt on bearings.
 

leg17

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Yea, that was suggested to me. A 3/8" cast iron pipe would be the one to try, I'm just not sure I trust that solution.

What do you have to lose?
A piece of pipe splitting?

Definitely over-thinking this whole thing.
 

Superbec

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Not really. I think this Assenmacher socket S3049-8 is as close as you would come to a "factory" tool for the job....

https://www.asttool.com/detail_closeup.php?image=S_3049-8.jpg

As you can see, it's "natively" a Stahlwille p/n 1030109

As for heat, yes, it's a very effective tool for situations such as this. I bought one of these a couple years back and I have effectively used it several times...
https://www.boltbusterinc.com/

so you have a bolt heater but for some reason you just have to "research" banalities on a forum?

1cut the hex
2use a 3/8 , yes it will work
3use a L key and the closed end of a wrench to pry it , or a piece of pipe, tubing...
4 ASK THE WIFE TO DO IT

wrenches, keys and what not can be cut with cut off discs, yea , dip in water but it shouldn't get that hot anyway , or a band saw will do it , I've done it more than once .

not sure about the a4 bolts but I've seen some craxzy caliper bolts ... some come with loctite on them ... for heavy loctite to melt you would need 300 celsius at the bolt or it wouldn't matter at all
 

bubinga

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so you have a bolt heater but for some reason you just have to "research" banalities on a forum?

1cut the hex
2use a 3/8 , yes it will work
3use a L key and the closed end of a wrench to pry it , or a piece of pipe, tubing...
4 ASK THE WIFE TO DO IT

wrenches, keys and what not can be cut with cut off discs, yea , dip in water but it shouldn't get that hot anyway , or a band saw will do it , I've done it more than once .

not sure about the a4 bolts but I've seen some craxzy caliper bolts ... some come with loctite on them ... for heavy loctite to melt you would need 300 celsius at the bolt or it wouldn't matter at all
Whats Up with the attitude?
Most of the members are nice to one another,
Is it just me,
You seem to have an attitude toward the OP?
 

T45

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Does he mean to use a 3/8" in place of an 8mm?

IIRC, 3/8 is the normal square drive for 8mm hex bit sockets. That, and they make a stubby one for like $17 (New). Which in most cases is what people would use for this.
 

T45

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... for heavy loctite to melt you would need 300 celsius at the bolt or it wouldn't matter at all

This is probably worth making a mental note of...

Loctite is plastic and you do have to kill it with some heat if the bolt is spec'd with it...especially if it has a high-heat loctie (= brakes tend to get hot).

But yes, the OP is really got lots of options and a couple months until he plans to do the job. Plenty of time to figure it all out. :thumbup:
 

67King

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(In my best Alec Guiness voice) DPDISXR4TI......now there's a name I haven't heard in a long time.

May not be possible with an 8mm, but for some of the larger ones, I have removed the insert, cut it off with a wheel on the back side of it, and re-inserted it. Did so to preserve any heat treatment on teh engagement side while getting the tool to be the size I needed.

Hope things are well!
- Harry
 
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DPDISXR4Ti

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Does he mean to use a 3/8" in place of an 8mm?

I assumed that he meant use a 3/8" socket rather than 1/2". With a good quality breaker bar and a cheater pipe, it's certainly an option. However, I already have a couple 1/2" breaker bars, extendable ratchets, and the 1/2" 8mm Allen Snap-On socket in question.
 

bubinga

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XZN is the name for the triple square, spline style bits that Audi uses for quite a few fasteners. They really like to use them for plugs like the transmission and differential drain plugs.

Here is a link to a set on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WK9I3O/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Oh yeah, OK, thanks.
Is that the same VW uses on there axles? Although I'm thinking the VW tool has more splines.
I haven't used it in years, I loaned it to a fellow 10 years ago, he brought it back, and I haven't used it since..... Lol

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bubinga

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(In my best Alec Guiness voice) DPDISXR4TI......now there's a name I haven't heard in a long time.

May not be possible with an 8mm, but for some of the larger ones, I have removed the insert, cut it off with a wheel on the back side of it, and re-inserted it. Did so to preserve any heat treatment on teh engagement side while getting the tool to be the size I needed.

Hope things are well!
- Harry
Yeah, that's a good idea. I think if you went slow, and dipped in water often, would be OK too.
You could always turn it over later if need be.
Either way would be OK.
I still like that short one that was linked to. On e bay, that I commented on earlier, and showed a picture. It's on my PC or I'd show the picture again..............




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bubinga

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This is probably worth making a mental note of...

Loctite is plastic and you do have to kill it with some heat if the bolt is spec'd with it...especially if it has a high-heat loctie (= brakes tend to get hot).

But yes, the OP is really got lots of options and a couple months until he plans to do the job. Plenty of time to figure it all out. [emoji106]
Yeah, the "red" lock tite, they say you got to heat.

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bubinga

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I assumed that he meant use a 3/8" socket rather than 1/2". With a good quality breaker bar and a cheater pipe, it's certainly an option. However, I already have a couple 1/2" breaker bars, extendable ratchets, and the 1/2" 8mm Allen Snap-On socket in question.
If you had a lathe, you might even be able to shorten the socket part of the tool also., you know the body?
That would surly void the warranty.... Lol.
You could shorten the bit or cut a piece off from an L allen wrench, and insert it into an 8 mm, 3/8 drive short well socket.

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DPDISXR4Ti

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Is that the same VW uses on there axles?

Yes, that's one of several places that the XZN headed bolt is used on Audi/VW. The bonus of the 12-point XZN is that a standard 6-point Allen tool can be used on it. As long as the bolt isn't crazy tight, that will work fine.
 

pi_guy

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Yes, that's one of several places that the XZN headed bolt is used on Audi/VW. The bonus of the 12-point XZN is that a standard 6-point Allen tool can be used on it. As long as the bolt isn't crazy tight, that will work fine.

WRONG

If your retaining bolts for drive line are loose they are junk
 

Superbec

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Whats Up with the attitude?
Most of the members are nice to one another,
Is it just me,
You seem to have an attitude toward the OP?

attitude? how about being trolled by winlimacs and others ?

someone who owns an commercial induction heater will never ask how to cut an allen key, by the time one opens the laptop to post the key is already cut and dressed ... so this is either a one in a million asking for help post or just another troll . You do the math .
 
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DPDISXR4Ti

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attitude? how about being trolled by winlimacs and others ?

someone who owns an commercial induction heater will never ask how to cut an allen key, by the time one opens the laptop to post the key is already cut and dressed ... so this is either a one in a million asking for help post or just another troll . You do the math .

Google says... No results found for winlimacs.

But yep, you figured me out. Here's my pic...

Internet-Troll.jpg
 

67King

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attitude? how about being trolled by winlimacs and others ?

someone who owns an commercial induction heater will never ask how to cut an allen key, by the time one opens the laptop to post the key is already cut and dressed ... so this is either a one in a million asking for help post or just another troll . You do the math .

I've known the OP for, sheesh, probably 15 years. He is a very, very successful guy professionally, who actually really enjoys getting his hands dirty to just do stuff. 99.9% of his peers probably won't even inflate their own tires, but he'll do it all, even so far as creating a one-off car/truck type of thing using a German sport sedan and a Subaru Brat.

So while you may find his question odd given some of his resources, I assure you he is not a troll.
 

bubinga

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attitude? how about being trolled by winlimacs and others ?

someone who owns an commercial induction heater will never ask how to cut an allen key, by the time one opens the laptop to post the key is already cut and dressed ... so this is either a one in a million asking for help post or just another troll . You do the math .
OK, what ever.
it's MY observation, that every so often
Some Wise Guy comes around here, Smarts off,
maybe gets in an argument, and is gone for good.
So what ever.

who the hell is "trolling" is winlimacs the one asking about tool boxes all the time? and everybody was on his ***?
Are you the one that said "let your wife do it"........edit ( yes,)
Like I said, most of us are nice to each other.
Do me a favor, OK, Don't reply yo any more of MY comments,
and I wont reply to yours? Deal?

I don't come on here and act smart to posters.
Everyone wasn't Born Knowing This ****.
So, he owns an owns an commercial induction heater?
Does that mean he knows everything?
I never had any trouble or No one ever told Me I was being a smart ***.
I still feel you had an attitude.
"get your wife to do it"

I'm glad you know everything about everything too.
Sorry the OP wasted your time.
Maybe he used a Phone or a desktop, and didn't have to "Open His laptop"
I will be careful not to ask any dumb questions in the future,.
Right away, every body is Trolling. You do the "math"
yeah,I'm sure the OP has nothing better to do than write fake questions.
I'm here to learn, and help people if I can,
Not call them stupid, or a Troll
 
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T45

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So while you may find his question odd given some of his resources, I assure you he is not a troll.

I think what's odd about the question is that the job to be done is like 3 months away, the part is either free or under 10 delivered (even in the snap-on variety!),

....and people are talking for 3 pages and to keep bumping the thread. :lol::lol:

Good luck OP, when the spring comes and the job is done...let us know how it went !
 

bubinga

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I think what's odd about the question is that the job to be done is like 3 months away, the part is either free or under 10 delivered (even in the snap-on variety!),

....and people are talking for 3 pages and to keep bumping the thread. :lol::lol:

Good luck OP, when the spring comes and the job is done...let us know how it went !
I don't think he is trolling either.
sometimes people just like to "kick a subject around".
I think it was a legit question.
He was concerned about taking the hardness out of the tool.
 

M6erfan

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Only on GJ could one of the simplest questions get 3 pages and over 100 responses.

It's a freaking hex key for the love of pete...
 
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Just use a small cutting disc and grinder or dremel and cut it that's what the manufactures do they cut them why can't you I do when they strip asit's like starting over .
 
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DPDISXR4Ti

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Have we made it to 7 pages yet? :)

I figured I would go for an "intermediate stubby" length first...
 

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tonyciambrone

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Maybe people are just jealous? I'm in that category, wish I was at a point where I would consider modifying or cutting Snap-on brand products. Even at student prices they are too expensive for me to think about taking an abrasive to them. But more power to you, smoke em if you got em
 

bubinga

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Maybe people are just jealous? I'm in that category, wish I was at a point where I would consider modifying or cutting Snap-on brand products. Even at student prices they are too expensive for me to think about taking an abrasive to them. But more power to you, smoke em if you got em
Have we made it to 7 pages yet? :)

I figured I would go for an "intermediate stubby" length first...
So You Shortened the snap on bit?
Yeah, what the heck, you can always buy another longer bit only if need be or you wanted to.
Nice job, It looks factory!!:pimpflash
 
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DPDISXR4Ti

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Maybe people are just jealous? I'm in that category, wish I was at a point where I would consider modifying or cutting Snap-on brand products. Even at student prices they are too expensive for me to think about taking an abrasive to them. But more power to you, smoke em if you got em

I don't own many Snap-on tools; the few that I do own were purchased because the application demanded a really good tool. I was patient and got this socket (lightly) used on eBay for $9.28 shipped. That's not much more than a 3/8" drive Craftsman.
 

rlitman

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I don't own many Snap-on tools; the few that I do own were purchased because the application demanded a really good tool. I was patient and got this socket (lightly) used on eBay for $9.28 shipped. That's not much more than a 3/8" drive Craftsman.

Nice. And since you'll be following the advice of one of the 117 posts above regarding how you can cut the tip off, the "lightly used" part will be removed before you even put it to use.

As you can tell, we here are GJ feel passionately about our use of sockets!
 
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