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Cutting electrical boxes in OSB..New work vs Old work

Captain America

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TEXAS
I'm in the process of finishing out my detached garage, and I'm using osb as sheeting, cedar batten, and rusted tin as a wainscoting. I will be installing electrical in a couple of weeks and need to install electrical boxes.

I'm thinking if I use new work boxes, it's going to be a PITA to measure and cut osb to match the box opening while sheeting.

So, I'm thinking..
1. run wire and staple to stud leaving excess
2. mark floor on which bay wire is ran
3. install osb
4. cut hole and install OLD work box
5. wire...DONE.

Or should I use new work, measure and cut. Is there an easier way to do this?

Thanks!
 
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KANSASBOY

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I have osb walls in my shop . I did almost the same way but I just drilled hole in the osb fished wire throw hole then nailed up my sheeting then came with my Sonicrafter to cut box openings
 

rockwithjason

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new work is generally a stronger installation but there is nothing wrong with roughing the cable and using an old work box.
 
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Captain America

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I already bought new work boxes, but thinking about returning for old work. I'm going for the easiest method.
 

thewatusi

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Philly Burbs
Mount the new work boxes. Smear the edge with lipstick. Carefully position the osb and press it against the box. Cut out the lipstick outline. Badda bing - badda boom.
 

Kaizen

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where the boxes are going is it going to be 3/4 inch osp and the 3/4 boards? I'd go with heavy duty new boxes that are steel that allow you to put it out that far. I honestly just try to hit the middle of the box with my multitool then work out to the edges. if you are using 2 layers of cover you have some oops forgiveness.
 

WJW

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2x Kaizen works good on sheet rock too did 980 sqft this way no errors. use a router or a zip cutter
 

NeuseRvrRat

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I used new work boxes and just measured and cut them out with a jig saw. It wasn't bad at all. I used the medium size plates from Lowe's and didn't have any with an exposed hole. I did have a few that I had to set back down and enlarge a little. Took about 30 sheets for my detached and I did them by myself.
 

xyster101

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Upstate NY
Mount the new work boxes. Smear the edge with lipstick. Carefully position the osb and press it against the box. Cut out the lipstick outline. Badda bing - badda boom.
I looked at home depot, lowes, and 2 hardware stores. Where does one find this lipstick? [emoji1]
I'm installing osb and will be cutting in my new work boxes. Do it once, do it strong.
 

PugetDude

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Buy the adjustable-depth new work boxes. Much easier to work with, you can install them flush and then finesse the cutouts with a multitool or roto zip.
Then just adjust the depth with a screwdriver.
 
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Captain America

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I will have 20 outlets total (10 @ 16" and 10 @ 50") not including (2)30amp plugs, that's a lot of measuring and 2 cuts per sheet. The ceiling is 9' tall, so I will have a full sheet flush to the ceiling and a 1' section at the floor.

Probably use this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-205029416-_-202077339-_-N at 16" so I can adjust flush to tin wainscoting.

Use old work box at the 50" location. That would cut down on the possibility of screwing up a sheet of osb.

My outlet plan is located in this thread.....http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288458
 
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cdestuck

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Just a thought on your osb sheets. Might you think about the full sheet at the bottom and smaller at the top. A nice piece of trim covering the seam painted a contrasting color would look nice. I to used osb and used new work boxes. Tons of outlets in my 28x60 garage. Just take your time, keep it all plumb and it'll come out great.

If you are painting, mKe sure you use a good hiding primer to keep the darker chips from bleeding through. Might even spot hit the darker ones twice before final coat.
 

landlord30

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Pittsburgh, PA
Buy the adjustable-depth new work boxes. Much easier to work with, you can install them flush and then finesse the cutouts with a multitool or roto zip.
Then just adjust the depth with a screwdriver.

This is what I used. I mounted them so the bottom is 48.5" off the floor. I placed the osb on its side 1/2" off the floor. I only have to cut the sides and top for the opening in the next sheet on top of the first one.
 

MoonRise

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Just cut the box openings with a RotoZip or equivalent.

New work boxes mounted to the studs, wires rough into the box, OSB sheathing installed (no holes cut yet!), then cut out the openings with a RotoZip. Done.

Just don't zip through the wires that are stuffed in the box (make sure the wires are neatly tucked back far into the box during the rough-in before you cut the openings) and don't stick the bit out full length (just long enough to cut through the sheathing or wall covering).

Or you can go with installing the new work boxes and leave them just a hair 'proud' and mark the box edge with some sort of 'goop' (like the aforementioned lipstick :D ) and press the sheathing panel into place and then you take the panel down and cut the openings using the transferred marks (on the back of the panels) and then put the panel back in place and actually install it.
 

PugetDude

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One more tip- if you're going to install the boxes first, make sure you locate them very carefully, getting them at exactly the same height- that way you only have to worry about distance from the edge of each OSB sheet, the height will be identical. Get one right and they're all right- assuming your floor is level. You can make a template for the boxes, just slide it across the OSB sheet and mark the cutouts.
 

jamesr242

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Oct 31, 2013
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You're making me wish I did it with the old work boxes now. I just tried to measure and cut the OSB around the new work boxes. For the most part it worked out okay, but one of them I was a bit off so now I have a 2 gang cover on a 1 gang box.
 

LifeLongWNYer

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Mount the new work boxes. Smear the edge with lipstick. Carefully position the osb and press it against the box. Cut out the lipstick outline. Badda bing - badda boom.

Home Depot has a template the you slip on an electrical box, then press the OSD/sheetrock against it, and the template leaves marks so you can cut in the box. I think it is in the $ 5.00 range.

I used lipstick once, and ended up with it all over everything.



JBP


.
 

LifeLongWNYer

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Pics or it didn't happen...

I can assure you, it did happen, but I didn't take pictures, was too busy trying to clean up.

It was bad, I "painted up" several boxes, planning to mark and hang a whole wall with sheet rock. As I was marking one sheet, I brushed other boxes and got the lipstick all over my pants. Then I got it on my hands, which, of course, I transferred to the sheet rock......

Even if I had thought of it, I wouldn't have taken pictures. Why PROVE how dumb I am?




JBP


.
 

MoonRise

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I can assure you, it did happen, but I didn't take pictures, was too busy trying to clean up.

It was bad, I "painted up" several boxes, planning to mark and hang a whole wall with sheet rock. As I was marking one sheet, I brushed other boxes and got the lipstick all over my pants. Then I got it on my hands, which, of course, I transferred to the sheet rock......

Even if I had thought of it, I wouldn't have taken pictures. Why PROVE how dumb I am?


.

Honest Honey, the lipstick all over me is because I was trying to put up some drywall and was marking the electrical outlet boxes with some lipstick and ...

Honey?

:evil: :lol_hitti

Dykem ( http://itwprofessionalbrands.com/1172/dykem/hi-spot/dykem-hi-spot-blue ) and antiseize both also seem to have an 'affinity' for transferring themselves around a bit as well. :lol:
 

Kaizen

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You're making me wish I did it with the old work boxes now. I just tried to measure and cut the OSB around the new work boxes. For the most part it worked out okay, but one of them I was a bit off so now I have a 2 gang cover on a 1 gang box.

take it out and put a 2 gang box in. don't leave it like that.
 

LifeLongWNYer

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Honest Honey, the lipstick all over me is because I was trying to put up some drywall and was marking the electrical outlet boxes with some lipstick and ...

Honey?


So, MoonRise, were you in the neighborhood that night?

It didn't help that we hadn't moved into the house yet, and I was there, working late, all by myself! I had a "helper" every night for several weeks.




JBP


.
 

TLCObsession

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Aug 30, 2011
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Bellingham, WA
This is what I used. I mounted them so the bottom is 48.5" off the floor. I placed the osb on its side 1/2" off the floor. I only have to cut the sides and top for the opening in the next sheet on top of the first one.

This is what I do in garages. That way when I have 4' sheet goods leaning against a wall I don't block my outlets. IMHO, there is no need for outlets down low.

One more tip- if you're going to install the boxes first, make sure you locate them very carefully, getting them at exactly the same height- that way you only have to worry about distance from the edge of each OSB sheet, the height will be identical. Get one right and they're all right- assuming your floor is level. You can make a template for the boxes, just slide it across the OSB sheet and mark the cutouts.

Sorry - A bad idea in the garage - most have a sloping floor. A cheap laser level will be a better way to do it. When you go to trim out, just screw the sheets loosely. Then fin your first box bottom, set the laser again and you will be able to find all of the box bottoms.
 
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