My shop has a metal roof made of the same flat corrugated steel as the siding. I need to trim the overhang back about an inch or so so I can install some guttering. Would a regular old circular saw work with a correct blade and what would be the correct blade for doing this? I've got access to an electric Makita snip/nibbler if that would be better. Just thinking that with all the sharp bends in the material that the shears might be a bit awkward.
Cutting metal barn siding
- Thread starter 69supercj
- Start date
bgott
Well-known member
I use a regular circular saw blade flipped over backwards. If you do this you want to wear gloves and long sleeves and eye protection. Hearing protection would also be nice, it makes a lot of noise.
What he said, but a metal blade works even better...
MULDROW
Member
four inch tin snips
jklingel
Well-known member
Depending on thickness, yes, snips or a C6 carbide blade made specifically for steel. Blades are about $45 and come in various tooth-counts for different thicknesses. Absolutely wear eye, ear, arm, hand, and face protection; you'll be getting shards of hot steel coming off the blade.
onewaydave
Well-known member
If you were in the Dominican Republic, I'd say a machette. They can do more with one of those than Norm could with his and my shop put together.
Bent Nail
Member
Depending on the amount of run and availability of ease, a circular saw with a metal abrasive blade is my personal choice . Be aware of paint burn and kick-back.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
Dragster Racer
Well-known member
I have been using a Milwaukee nibbler, and really like it. However, my sheets are not yet installed, and I can bend and manipulate them a bit to get the right angle for the nibbler. There are also places, like ripping at the base of the rib, that you will leave marks from the base of the nibbler. For a long straight cut, the saw seems like the way to go, unless you have to purchase the blade. Maybe rental?
hoopty388
Well-known member
ive done these roofs for years and we use a carbide blade turned backwards. a regular wil work but carbide works way better.
using a metal blade will heat it up and mess with the coating and the galvi. it will look fine at first but you greaten the chance of rust down the road.
using a metal blade will heat it up and mess with the coating and the galvi. it will look fine at first but you greaten the chance of rust down the road.
rieferman
Well-known member
For just an inch, could you consider doubling up the fascia board to build out the thickness for the gutter? Seems like that might be easier than making that long cut nicely.
+1 If you cut it with a circular saw that edge is going to look like **** and rust, and the hot metal chips will embed in the paint of all the sheets around it too and cause rust spots. I tried the carbide general use blade backward on 29 gauge ribbed panel and the carbide teeth came off in about a foot or two.
JASTECH
Well-known member
+1 on the fascia board increase. I think it will look better, and be safer to do. A hot metal shard in the eye will leave a longer impression and cost more time, money in the end.
Thanks, JASTECH
Thanks, JASTECH
Falcon67
Well-known member
We had a double wide once upon a time, and I skirted it with corrugated galvi steel. I used a used up regular blade put on backwards in the Skil saw. I cut those sheets longways and crossways, enough to go around a 24x48 with one end 4' off the ground and the short end maybe 18". We lived there 4 years and I never saw any rust issues and never painted the skirting. YMMV. The racket is unbelieveable. Ear protection, face shield with goggles, heavy gloves, long sleeves, etc REQUIRED.
That said - If it was me and it was an inch, I'd double the facia or cut some custom width boards instead of the metal.
That said - If it was me and it was an inch, I'd double the facia or cut some custom width boards instead of the metal.
Nighttrain
Well-known member
The builders of my metal shop used a small Makita grinder with a cut off blade. I used the same on corrugated metal. Draw a line with a sharpie and go for it. It's a lot easier than a skill saw and a lot safer. It will leave a smooth cut.
If you have to cut light gauge sheet metal, consider a Kett shear.
http://www.kett-tool.com/product.php?cat_name=KM Double-Cut Shears
http://www.kett-tool.com/product.php?cat_name=KM Double-Cut Shears
jabberwoki
Well-known member
Listen to this bloke he has the anwser!
kc-steve
Well-known member
Angle Grinder with abrasive metal cutting blade? Someone told me once that an abrasive metal blade used in a circular saw would burn up the motor on my worm-drive. I don't know whether that's true or not. They might have been thinking about cutting something thicker than your corrugated sheet stuff though.
Steve
Steve
Mark H
Well-known member
I'd agree with the guys who suggested using an angle grinder.Use the thin,1mm cutting disc designed for cutting stainless steel.They cut fast and accurate,so there's little heat build-up,and a clean cut edge.
This is right out of the installation manual that came with the metal used to clad my ASYLUM...
(click on thumbnail to enlarge)
View attachment 80487
I try not to drill or grind on any part of the siding/roof that will be exposed to the elements because the exposed edge will start rusting within a month in FL. Shearing the metal tends to pinch and seal the galvanized coating back together on this 29ga material. So far so good, although my building is only about 5 years old.
Just my $.02
(click on thumbnail to enlarge)
View attachment 80487
I try not to drill or grind on any part of the siding/roof that will be exposed to the elements because the exposed edge will start rusting within a month in FL. Shearing the metal tends to pinch and seal the galvanized coating back together on this 29ga material. So far so good, although my building is only about 5 years old.
Just my $.02