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D.TRECE - Garage + House

jbmatth

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For the sliding door hidden handle how about just a plug hole in the wood? Use a round router bit and sink it into the wood about 1/2" (1.25 cm), then clean, sand, stain, and coat the hole. It wouldn't be invisible, but would be more difficult to see.
JB
 
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wbrian63

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Only thing you need to concern yourself with is how much weight the Liftmaster actually bears when lifting. Set the spring tension to limit that amount and you should be good to go for a long time.

Regards
 

shortykorte

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Would you explain the Woody joke? Sorry couldn't resist.

For sliding door opener, I'm thinking Star Trek. A house this awesome needs automated sliding doors. The pocket door looks great, the door(wall) to the right not so much.
To help with the hidden effect, putting matching wood on the short section wall to left of the door would help hide the door.

Do you have access to the reddish contractor roll paper? Those floors look like they might be taking a beating. I used paper to cover the tile in my house until the construction was finished.
 
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LCG

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And to have that wood not matching would see me trying to tear somebody a new, well, fundamental orifice.... (if you get my drift).

I did say that I would just leave my OCD behind and just live there.
I had a long chat yesterday with the contractor, I can live with the mismatching colors on the wood but there are some things that WILL have to be redone.

For the sliding door hidden handle how about just a plug hole in the wood? Use a round router bit and sink it into the wood about 1/2" (1.25 cm), then clean, sand, stain, and coat the hole. It wouldn't be invisible, but would be more difficult to see.
JB

I could also hide the lock in that recess. Nice



The garage opener concern may be the weight difference of the heavy steel frame you have and a "normal" light gauge steel garage door. You may want to do some estimating on the weight on your door and Liftmaster's load rating for the 8500.

Only thing you need to concern yourself with is how much weight the Liftmaster actually bears when lifting. Set the spring tension to limit that amount and you should be good to go for a long time.

Regards

The frame is made from aluminum, not heavy at all, 120kg (260p ap) without glass, but spring tension is key as you both said and I'm not a garage door specialist but common sense is the motor would be able to pull whatever on its load rating, as you both said.

Vertical lift is so uncommon here and even more uncommon on a residential use, It took a year to find someone to do it, then he sold me the motor/hardware, installed the rails and never showed up again.

Then it took another "two years" to find another one willing to take the job, and now they are making excuses.

I guess it ends in the fact that no one wants to warranty something they are not used to so they will blame anything possible. :lol:

Would you explain the Woody joke? Sorry couldn't resist.

For sliding door opener, I'm thinking Star Trek. A house this awesome needs automated sliding doors. The pocket door looks great, the door(wall) to the right not so much.
To help with the hidden effect, putting matching wood on the short section wall to left of the door would help hide the door.

Do you have access to the reddish contractor roll paper? Those floors look like they might be taking a beating. I used paper to cover the tile in my house until the construction was finished.

haha sliding automatic doors are very expensive, and even more expensive for a door that weights more than 200 pounds. I'm not even sure what kind of time of service we will get from the rails they installed. It already feels like pushing a car with flat tires.
 

ap2002

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You sir have a nice place! Keep up the good work and at the end it will be well worth it. Great thread on the Porshe aswell, saludos!
 

polexican23

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D13.0658s.jpg


:beer:


Why wouldn't they put the springs and tracks on the inside of the garage or is that upper window on the next floor?
 
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LCG

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You sir have a nice place! Keep up the good work and at the end it will be well worth it. Great thread on the Porshe aswell, saludos!

Dang. Impressed.

Thank you both

Why wouldn't they put the springs and tracks on the inside of the garage or is that upper window on the next floor?

The door is one element, it has to go straight up. There will be a pocket wall hiding the guts
 

Denwood

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Rather than messing with the Liftmaster capacity, why not just take the effective door weight to "zero" with 100 lb counterbalance on both sides? Get some decent cable and pulley hardware. You could hide everything on each side of the door. If you do it correctly the motor will be lifting zero lbs.

Safer this way too as there would be no door springs. You might be able to eliminate the shaft across the top altogether...but will end up with structure on the right/left of the door. Just food for thought :)

We have a 14ft overhead door here that has tracks extended upwards so the door ends up about 20 ft overhead. It's at least 400lbs, however the it's entire mass is not lifted..it only has to go up 6 ft., then ends up horizontal. Zero issues with it over the last 4 yrs with a direct drive commercial opener.
 
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LCG

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The guys doing the work now suggested that approach, but I already had (paid) all the hardware for the torsion setup a while ago. One of those things that I wish I had known better.

This door should not have even existed, it was all going to be a normal roll up.

But I wanted concrete beams to be the same size on the ceiling, that made one of them so big that It ate up the space needed to fit the rolled up door inside the garage and we didn't notice till it was too late to say sorry.
 

Pointbock

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... a door that weights more than 200 pounds. I'm not even sure what kind of time of service we will get from the rails they installed. It already feels like pushing a car with flat tires.

upper and lower tracks/rollers or just hung from an upper rail?
 
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LCG

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SpartaKY

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I will have to say that this has been an interesting and educational thread, to say the least. Good Luck with your progress and thank you for sharing your blood, Sweat, & Tears!!
 

JakeKohl

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And FINALLY, FINAAAAAAAAAAALLY!!!!!!! Garage door work started.
We are using a liftmaster 8500 but the guys doing the install told me that it may not last long and I should buy an industrial grade opener. Thoughts?


:beer:

I have a couple of 8500 openers and they're fine lifting ~somewhat~ heavy R13 insulated 16' composite garage doors. I'm quite happy with them and they've been very reliable. However, they're not lifting welded steel doors! Without running numbers, I would guess the 8500s and it's plastic gears are indeed going to be undersized for the inertia in that application. You probably need something closer to these:
https://www.liftmaster.com/For-Businesses/Commercial-Door-Operators/Medium-Duty/model-MJ
 
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LCG

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I will have to say that this has been an interesting and educational thread, to say the least. Good Luck with your progress and thank you for sharing your blood, Sweat, & Tears!!

:beer:

I have a couple of 8500 openers and they're fine lifting ~somewhat~ heavy R13 insulated 16' composite garage doors. I'm quite happy with them and they've been very reliable. However, they're not lifting welded steel doors! Without running numbers, I would guess the 8500s and it's plastic gears are indeed going to be undersized for the inertia in that application. You probably need something closer to these:
https://www.liftmaster.com/For-Businesses/Commercial-Door-Operators/Medium-Duty/model-MJ

The frame is aluminum so its not that heavy, I checked the MJ and seems like a good option if the 8500 fails, there is space to install it above the torsion hardware. But If the 8500 fails maybe this one will fail too, after some comments I did some research and the motor should not be doing ANY lifting at all, its work is just to spin the shaft. The springs have to do all the work alone. Only time will tell.

Would it be possible to add counterweights in conjunction with the opener? Or perhaps run dual lift motors?

If the door happens to be heavier than the spring rates, counterweights will be needed. fact.

If everything fails I will just print an image of the door on a huge vinyl sheet and hang it from the second floor, make some cuts like Hawaiian skirt and just travel through it.
 

paigej

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If everything fails I will just print an image of the door on a huge vinyl sheet and hang it from the second floor, make some cuts like Hawaiian skirt and just travel through it.

This is the best idea yet! No parts to fail
 

JakeKohl

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....

If the door happens to be heavier than the spring rates, counterweights will be needed. fact.

If everything fails I will just print an image of the door on a huge vinyl sheet and hang it from the second floor, make some cuts like Hawaiian skirt and just travel through it.

True! Counterweights are the ultimate answer in that application - as you know the load carried by the springs will not be consistent over the distance the door travels and the springs unwind. On a standard roll up door in a regular garage, the same torsion springs are mostly unloaded as the door transitions from vertical to horizontal so tuning them involves getting that spring rate correct in the spring size and then preloading them correctly. Only then do they mostly keep the door somewhat neutrally "buoyant". I don't know how you can do that with a door that remains vertical but I'm sure you have this under control. You are clearly a very technically skilled and artistically talented person...which is a heavy curse on the human condition when building a house! :drink:
 
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LCG

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I have learned a lot on torsion springs on the past 2 days haha..

Ultimately I found this video and it had all the answers. Prepare to be filled with knowledge by a potato video.

 

mrgm

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counter weights with small electric motor. you will have a faux wall to house the rail and end of door, may as well throw some weights in there
 
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LCG

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Well you better spring into action before your neighbor starts snooping.

that has been happening since longtime ago.. he even has pictures of the inside of the house when It was in brick state. Who knows what else.


Stuff like that makes me want to sell this house and build a new one with a proper executive project.

Then I remember this thread and I don't.

Probably will.

Later.


Aha! A spiral/tapered cable drum. Brilliant.

I know! Those engineers are crazy. ******* magnets! :lol:

counter weights with small electric motor. you will have a faux wall to house the rail and end of door, may as well throw some weights in there

Entirely possible and the perfect place.
 

rmalkow2

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Neighbor too nosy? Research local law, post the property as no trespassing, put up some game cameras to catch pictures of him in the house and then depending on how far you want to take it either have him arrested or just warned that you have evidence of breaking and entering if he ever does it again he goes to jail.
 

tacostand

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that has been happening since longtime ago.. he even has pictures of the inside of the house when It was in brick state. Who knows what else.

At least the target reconnaissance portion of sniper school was money well spent (by him).
:shoot5::bigun2::Gun1:
:lol_hitti
 

pontgta

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WOW!:beer:

I just spent 2 days viewing this thread from start to end.


Saludos y Echale Ganas!
 
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LCG

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At least the target reconnaissance portion of sniper school was money well spent (by him).
:shoot5::bigun2::Gun1:
:lol_hitti

:lol_hitti

Amazing house and attention to detail.

A very fun read.

:beer:

WOW!:beer:

I just spent 2 days viewing this thread from start to end.


Saludos y Echale Ganas!

A sus ordenes!

This house is ridiculous.

I like it.

Looking forward to seeing the end result. The OCD factor in this build is surreal. =)

The OCD amount is slowly being overwhelmed by the amount of resignation. :lol:


****************

Dusty update:

Kitchen is stuck because they are having problems with a decorative piece of glass that keeps breaking ( according to them ). But some progress has been made.

D13.0660s.jpg


The range hood wall is meant to have marble on it but that will have to wait till we gather some extra funds.


D13.0665s.jpg


See the black center piece where the microwave/oven is, that is where the breaking glass is supposed to be.

The range and hood are super cool, not wolf cool but cool at a lower status level :lol: . they are 47" long and proportional to my ****.tamination of coolness.

D13.0661s.jpg



I like my stuff clean, very minimalist, no portraits no appliances in the counter tops, etc. The portrait thing will be violated by my mother I'm sure, the first thing she will bring when visiting is more and more portraits or little stuff to put around. The clean counter tops will be full of unnecessary stuff by my wife.

Yet at the very least I will enjoy the fact that there will be no ridiculous amount of non used plug sockets here.

Counter tops are brutally perforated by diamond hole saws, creating a lot of pixie dust ready to turn your boogers black.

D13.0662s.jpg



Those empty hole will be filled with thick sticks.

D13.0663s.jpg


This sticks go up and down as needed and contrary to popular belief they do not offer any pleasure to the granite.

Going out of the kitchen... Jordon's especial fireless place. Yes, fireless, because as most decorative """"cool"""" stuff, it will only be fired once or twice in a lifetime, if ever. Yes Bob, the bmw has more chance of catching fire that this thing.

D13.0664s.jpg


And look at that wood, that is how the doors upstairs should have looked, a lack of communication with me left carried that mistake, contractor should be glad I'm not a spoiled brat and I will let his atrocity live with me. Yes Bob I am exaggerating for drama purposes.


1st floor has 10ft ceilings and it makes doors look way cooler than upstairs. I know its dirty and a lot of random stuff is laying around everywhere on the pictures but... This picture makes me happy. I can imagine this view without glitter or dust in the granite and brings me joy.

D13.0668s.jpg




On the sliding door subject, after ranting around with carpenters they kinda solved the horrible difference of both sides.

D13.0666s.jpg


They etched the wood and surprisingly it looks better.


And lastly, main bathroom got decked.

D13.0667s.jpg


It blends a lot with the walls which I don't particularly like but at this point I'm just ok with it. My render went to **** because I won't be able to make my ultra boxy anatomically incorrect tub with stones and light but :dunno: life happens.
 

shortykorte

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I guess with those kitchen outlets you will need a big tube of KY in the kitchen and earplugs when sleeping.

The bathroom is gorgeous. I like the wall treatment.

Sliding door does look better. As mentioned earlier, any thoughts to having the same wood on the narrow section of wall to the left of the sliding door.

Awesome as always!
 

sracer99

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Dec 11, 2013
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50
awesome work!
One note, but i think you are already doing this (looking at the bath):
i'm staying in a hotel that has a great shower floor detail: the floor slopes to the wall and has a space (grout line width) between the floor in the wall that is the drain. This is with 4x12" tile floor. It is a slick detail and one i wish i'd seen prior to my build.
 

HotrodHR

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North Alabama
:beer:



The frame is aluminum so its not that heavy, I checked the MJ and seems like a good option if the 8500 fails, there is space to install it above the torsion hardware. But If the 8500 fails maybe this one will fail too, after some comments I did some research and the motor should not be doing ANY lifting at all, its work is just to spin the shaft. The springs have to do all the work alone. Only time will tell.



If the door happens to be heavier than the spring rates, counterweights will be needed. fact.

If everything fails I will just print an image of the door on a huge vinyl sheet and hang it from the second floor, make some cuts like Hawaiian skirt and just travel through it.


Check out this website for everything you ever wanted to know about highlift doors, but were afraid to ask! :lol:

I converted my shop door to highlift and bought the parts from these folks. They may not ship south of the border but I'm sure the will offer some suggestions and they can do some calculations for you for spring size, spools, etc.

Good luck!

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php
 
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LCG

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I guess with those kitchen outlets you will need a big tube of KY in the kitchen and earplugs when sleeping.

The bathroom is gorgeous. I like the wall treatment.

Sliding door does look better. As mentioned earlier, any thoughts to having the same wood on the narrow section of wall to the left of the sliding door.

Awesome as always!

Haha I had to search wtf was KY, why do you know that.

Wood on the left portion of that wall was decided against because we don't know the shape of the entertainment unit, yes, you can use that name for your ***** company, its not trademarked yet.

awesome work!
One note, but i think you are already doing this (looking at the bath):
i'm staying in a hotel that has a great shower floor detail: the floor slopes to the wall and has a space (grout line width) between the floor in the wall that is the drain. This is with 4x12" tile floor. It is a slick detail and one i wish i'd seen prior to my build.

Haha yes I saw that in a hotel for the first time too, on the main bathroom we have regular drains because the deck just goes over them, on all other bathrooms with granite floor, there is a faux tile that covers the drain just like you saw.


Check out this website for everything you ever wanted to know about highlift doors, but were afraid to ask! :lol:

I converted my shop door to highlift and bought the parts from these folks. They may not ship south of the border but I'm sure the will offer some suggestions and they can do some calculations for you for spring size, spools, etc.

Good luck!

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php

I actually found that site upon research but that particular application is like a hybrid :beer:
 

JordonMusser

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Dallas, TX
awesome work!
One note, but i think you are already doing this (looking at the bath):
i'm staying in a hotel that has a great shower floor detail: the floor slopes to the wall and has a space (grout line width) between the floor in the wall that is the drain. This is with 4x12" tile floor. It is a slick detail and one i wish i'd seen prior to my build.


FYI, I have this in my bathrooms. I would think twice for showers used a lot unless you clean it every 2 weeks religiously. That trough gets NASTY, and pretty fast.

I hate cleaning.
 

freezerburn

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Jul 8, 2014
Messages
26
Great thread, you may have mentioned somewhere in the post but can you give an approximate dollar amount for this construction/project built there in Guadalajara, Mexico? I know that here or anywhere would be a huge amount and am very curious about how much better, if any, it was Meixco. Be cool, freezer'
 
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