I plan to wire up my new G73 heater this weekend, and I just wanted to run it by you guys first. My garage has 200 amp service and plenty of room in the subpanel. I'm going to install a 30 amp double breaker, then run 10-2 romex 20' to the heater, without conduit. Does this sound good?
Dayton G73 Wiring
- Thread starter ted13b
- Start date
I did not do mine but my electician ran both of my g73's. He put them on a dual 40 amp breaker to be safe. Not sure the size of conduit. He then put a plug in (large like a dryer) in my ceiling and plugged the heaters in to their own plug in unit since they are located in different areas. If I ever need to replace one, all I have to do is change out the plug-in and plug it in and I am good to go. I also have 200 amp service.
Here is one of my units plugged in.
http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m197/bucs012/Garage/?action=view¤t=garage006-2.jpg
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sberry
Banned
Is there instruction manual with this thing? Its going to list the wire and breaker size.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Owner's manual for the Dayton G73: http://www.heater-home.com/manuals/G73.pdf It says at 5000 watts, 240vac the current is 20.9 amps, so a 30 amp circuit would be appropriate.
Keep
Well-known member
I ran a 30amp outlet, then bought some 10/3 cord so I can plug it in. If I need to move it I can move it up to 7 feet (that's how long the cord was) in any direction without having to rerun new wire.
You can sort of see the outlet here
You can sort of see the outlet here
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rieferman
Well-known member
following the manual, my electrician did 10-2 with 30 amp 2-pole breaker as well
Cebby
Well-known member
I just installed mine this week. That's how I did mine. It's GREAT having heat!!
(did THIS for the remote thermostat and disconnect)
Falcon67
Well-known member
Same here - 30A on #10, twist lock plug, a little 3/4" conduit and a couple of fittings. Bada-bing, packin' heat.
Aceman
Well-known member
He put two units on one 40 amp circuit or one unit each on a 40 amp circuit? Either way doesn't make sense really. If it draws 20 something amps why breaker two at 40 or even one at 40?
jkeyser14
Well-known member
You either need a disconnect switch at the unit, a plug, or a lockout on your service panel if it's not in sight for it to meet code. That way if someone is "servicing it" power is removed and can't be restored by someone else accidentally.
He put two units on one 40 amp circuit or one unit each on a 40 amp circuit? Either way doesn't make sense really. If it draws 20 something amps why breaker two at 40 or even one at 40?
Each one on their own 40. Over kill? Maybe, but I have never blown a breaker. Who knows, I may want to go with a larger heater in the future. Plan ahead and do it once.
Same here - 30A on #10, twist lock plug, a little 3/4" conduit and a couple of fittings. Bada-bing, packin' heat.
Mine is mounted pretty much like yours. See my latest power bill post under the heater section. 130 kph at 6.5 cents is dirt cheap!
mrbreezeet1
Banned
I know this is an older thread, but so you guys think this would be OK with the plug?
There were a few threads on another group cautioning to to use a plug, one guys caught on fire, but it turns out he used a 110v RV plug. The amps were OK,though, and another fellow thought the 110V part was not an issue, and was due to improper installation.
Myself, now, I would get a proper 220V 30 amp plug/outlet.
To me this seems easier than wiring 10/2 MC into the heater.
I am thinking about NEMA 6-30 plug or a twist loc plug wired onto 10/2 stranded cable, with the proper matching Outlet.
See the NewAir G73 just gives you 3 stranded wires to tie into, think there about a 12 AWG.
I wish they would just provide a terminal block like the Dayton, or like you would see on a dryer.
Thanks, Tony
There were a few threads on another group cautioning to to use a plug, one guys caught on fire, but it turns out he used a 110v RV plug. The amps were OK,though, and another fellow thought the 110V part was not an issue, and was due to improper installation.
Myself, now, I would get a proper 220V 30 amp plug/outlet.
To me this seems easier than wiring 10/2 MC into the heater.
I am thinking about NEMA 6-30 plug or a twist loc plug wired onto 10/2 stranded cable, with the proper matching Outlet.
See the NewAir G73 just gives you 3 stranded wires to tie into, think there about a 12 AWG.
I wish they would just provide a terminal block like the Dayton, or like you would see on a dryer.
Thanks, Tony
ishiboo
Well-known member
Of course, why wouldn't a properly rated plug be ok? That's the route I would take.
However, if I was you I would NOT install a flat-blade receptacle like a 6-30 up there just in case it slowly vibrates out over time; given gravity, I would use an L6-30 or similar rated for what you need... a twist-lock.
Do NOT install a 40a breaker on #10 wire as a previous OP suggested. bucs012's install looks great.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
OK Thanks, The one above, I think that's Falcon67's heater.
No I got a 30 Amp breaker.
I'll let you all know what I come up with.
Thanks, Tony
mrbreezeet1
Banned
No one local had the L6-30 or similar twist loc, maybe lowes will carry it I have to check tomorrow. Went to busy beaver, ACE and Tractor Supply.
Ace, IIRC had the twist Loc plug, but no outlet.
So is a L6-30 plug and outlet what I need?
If I go with the MC out of a box, I don't like the box clamp's shown, was looking
for the kind that screw on to the cable, but the ones ACE had looked too big, although I did not have the MC cable with me.
Guess I can use the ones I have too.
Was also looking for the little "Red-Head" Anti-Short bushings that go in the end of the MC, but no one local had those either.
I guess NEC says there not required for MC, but there Nice to use. They ARE required for AC cable.
Of course no one had the wire either, was looking for 10/2 with ground stranded cable.
Wonder if I could just use the 10/2 with ground MC on the twist loc plug, if I can find a plug and outlet locally.
Thanks for reading.
Tony
Ace, IIRC had the twist Loc plug, but no outlet.
So is a L6-30 plug and outlet what I need?
If I go with the MC out of a box, I don't like the box clamp's shown, was looking
for the kind that screw on to the cable, but the ones ACE had looked too big, although I did not have the MC cable with me.
Guess I can use the ones I have too.
Was also looking for the little "Red-Head" Anti-Short bushings that go in the end of the MC, but no one local had those either.
I guess NEC says there not required for MC, but there Nice to use. They ARE required for AC cable.
Of course no one had the wire either, was looking for 10/2 with ground stranded cable.
Wonder if I could just use the 10/2 with ground MC on the twist loc plug, if I can find a plug and outlet locally.
Thanks for reading.
Tony
Attachments
ishiboo
Well-known member
No one local had the L6-30 or similar twist loc, maybe lowes will carry it I have to check tomorrow. Went to busy beaver, ACE and Tractor Supply.
Ace, IIRC had the twist Loc plug, but no outlet.
So is a L6-30 plug and outlet what I need?
If I go with the MC out of a box, I don't like the box clamp's shown, was looking
for the kind that screw on to the cable, but the ones ACE had looked too big, although I did not have the MC cable with me.
Guess I can use the ones I have too.
Was also looking for the little "Red-Head" Anti-Short bushings that go in the end of the MC, but no one local had those either.
I guess NEC says there not required for MC, but there Nice to use. They ARE required for AC cable.
Of course no one had the wire either, was looking for 10/2 with ground stranded cable.
Wonder if I could just use the 10/2 with ground MC on the twist loc plug, if I can find a plug and outlet locally.
Thanks for reading.
Tony
Sign up for Amazon Prime and get your $3.99/item one-day shipping and get it all there then
Receptacle: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NAT9/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Plug: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NARX/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Cheapest way to wire would be to buy an acceptable "range cordset" designed for a home range (stove), and then cut both ends off. IE: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VU1KC6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You could also buy 25' of 10/3 cable but this will be 2-3X more expensive.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Ok thanks again, will look into it
Tony
Tony
aandpdan
Well-known member
Just a suggestion...
Try an electrical supply store for the L6-30 and the cable. They should have all of it. The prices are often better than HD or Lowes.
Try an electrical supply store for the L6-30 and the cable. They should have all of it. The prices are often better than HD or Lowes.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
electrical supply store was out of the 10/3 cord, wanted about $45.50 for the plug and outlet, Lowes wanted about $35.50 for the plug and outlet and about $7.00 for the cord.
Got some screw in box connectors for the MC like this in case I still decide to hard wire it.
Thanks, Tony
Got some screw in box connectors for the MC like this in case I still decide to hard wire it.
Thanks, Tony
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Fine strand wire cord, like that used in extension cords, is not permitted on the electrical code to be used on appliance connectors that are not specifically designed and designated for such. NEC 422.16(A). While this is a heater, and not a kitchen appliance (stove, oven, dishwasher, etc) is still should be good practice to know if the connector accepts fine stranded cord.
Whatever you use for a disconnecting means, plug, switch, etc, must be rated at a minimum of 125% of the total heater load (including blower, thermostat transformer, etc). Since fixed electric space heaters are considered continuous load items, the entire branch circuit supplying it also has to be rated at a minimum of 125% of the total load of the unit (wire, breakers, etc).
NEC 424 covers fixed electric heating and should be used as the minimum guide for installation of such systems.
Pay special attention to whether the manufacturer requires conductors rated at more than 60C and if so, what the minimum temperature rating is.
Charles
Whatever you use for a disconnecting means, plug, switch, etc, must be rated at a minimum of 125% of the total heater load (including blower, thermostat transformer, etc). Since fixed electric space heaters are considered continuous load items, the entire branch circuit supplying it also has to be rated at a minimum of 125% of the total load of the unit (wire, breakers, etc).
NEC 424 covers fixed electric heating and should be used as the minimum guide for installation of such systems.
Pay special attention to whether the manufacturer requires conductors rated at more than 60C and if so, what the minimum temperature rating is.
Charles
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mrbreezeet1
Banned
Well I know the heater pulls max 20.8 amps so 21 X 125% is 26.25, so I am using a 30 Amp breaker and # 10 wire.
That part should be OK then.
The manual with the heater does not specify if requires conductors rated at more than 60C
But you are are connecting into the heater wiring to 2 stranded wires that appear to be thinner than # 10.
So my guess is that the #10 stranded is OK.
Just looked on the cord and it says 300V -30 to 90C.
Thanks, Tony
That part should be OK then.
The manual with the heater does not specify if requires conductors rated at more than 60C
But you are are connecting into the heater wiring to 2 stranded wires that appear to be thinner than # 10.
So my guess is that the #10 stranded is OK.
Just looked on the cord and it says 300V -30 to 90C.
Thanks, Tony
harvero
Well-known member
I've a twist lock plug on mine with 600v #10 cord.
timgr
Well-known member
A plug, socket and cord is expensive and unnecessary for a permanent installation. You can use a 10-2 whip from Home Depot (about $10) like I did:
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Re Those whips, I was looking at those the other day, and didn't get it. (Had 1 left)
Went back Saturday, and was going to get it, and you guessed it, it was gone, No more in stock.
So I decided to just go with the twist loc's and the 10/3 cord.
That's a clean looking set up timgr.
What is the red NM coming out of the J box for, a line T-stat?
harvero, did you "tin" the cord wires with solder, or just leave them bare, where they clamp down into the plug connector's?
thanks, Tony
Edit,
The directions that came with the plug said Do NOT TIN wires.
Went back Saturday, and was going to get it, and you guessed it, it was gone, No more in stock.
So I decided to just go with the twist loc's and the 10/3 cord.
That's a clean looking set up timgr.
What is the red NM coming out of the J box for, a line T-stat?
harvero, did you "tin" the cord wires with solder, or just leave them bare, where they clamp down into the plug connector's?
thanks, Tony
Edit,
The directions that came with the plug said Do NOT TIN wires.
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timgr
Well-known member
Thanks - there's a speaker wire detouring around the bottom of the box. Is that what you're seeing?
Otherwise it's the 10-2 for the heater (orange) and yellow 12-2 going to the drop on the right.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
No It was the orange 10/2. I see, that's your line in, and the EMT must run down to the shut off switch.
Thanks, Tony
timgr
Well-known member
Yes there is a switch at the bottom of the EMT. The power shut-off switch isn't strictly proper for that heater. Proper external control would intercept the thermostat instead of the power feed. But it works fine as long as the fan is off when I switch off.
harvero
Well-known member
If an appliance is connected by cord, then does NEC apply to it? Would not UL take precedent since the device is not hard wired?
I copied this from another forum:
Hi guys, what's the trick to making this work with an L14-30 connector from a generator? I'm not ready to set up a 240 circuit to my shop, but it's easy for me to hook up my 6500 watt generator temporarily. Bucs012, your setup looks much like what I would want to do, but in lieu of the receptacle box, I'd look for some way to support the whip and bring it over to the wall, where I could hook up my generator cord.
racerboy
Well-known member
I know this is an old thread but thought it best to continue rather than start a new one.
I had a NewAir G73 in my last garage. When I moved, I took it with me, but that was almost two years ago and I do not remember how the electrician had it wired in my last garage. Following the advice on this forum, I bought a double-pole 30A breaker last night. I was also going to make a power cord (never did that before) by purchasing a twist-lock plug/receptacle and some 10/3 power cord. But in looking at the wiring that is currently attached to the G73, and is 12 AWG, not 10. Also, it has three wires, Red, White, Black. There is no copper bare wire. All of the wires are in a metallic sheath. In the previous install, the electrician ran that sheath down the wall and wired it directly to my breaker box. I had no on/off switch and he told me to simply turn the breaker on/off for power (which I've since learned is not the best advice).
If I wanted to hard-wire the existing wiring to a two-pole receptacle, where does the Black, Red, and White wire go?
Is the wiring he used too small? Should this be 10g?
My plan was to run orange romex (10/2) to a twist-lock receptacle, and then create a power cord that plug in from the G73 to the receptacle (the way some other folks here have done it), but the use of the 12 AWG wire has me confused since it seems everyone here is using a 10/3 power cord.
And the last, most basic question. How come the Romex cable is called 10/2, even though it has three wires, put the power cord is called 10/3, but also only has three wires?
I had a NewAir G73 in my last garage. When I moved, I took it with me, but that was almost two years ago and I do not remember how the electrician had it wired in my last garage. Following the advice on this forum, I bought a double-pole 30A breaker last night. I was also going to make a power cord (never did that before) by purchasing a twist-lock plug/receptacle and some 10/3 power cord. But in looking at the wiring that is currently attached to the G73, and is 12 AWG, not 10. Also, it has three wires, Red, White, Black. There is no copper bare wire. All of the wires are in a metallic sheath. In the previous install, the electrician ran that sheath down the wall and wired it directly to my breaker box. I had no on/off switch and he told me to simply turn the breaker on/off for power (which I've since learned is not the best advice).
If I wanted to hard-wire the existing wiring to a two-pole receptacle, where does the Black, Red, and White wire go?
Is the wiring he used too small? Should this be 10g?
My plan was to run orange romex (10/2) to a twist-lock receptacle, and then create a power cord that plug in from the G73 to the receptacle (the way some other folks here have done it), but the use of the 12 AWG wire has me confused since it seems everyone here is using a 10/3 power cord.
And the last, most basic question. How come the Romex cable is called 10/2, even though it has three wires, put the power cord is called 10/3, but also only has three wires?
racerboy
Well-known member
DeltaWye
Well-known member
You'd need to open up the unit and see where the wires connect or use a multimeter and see which one is bonded to the chassis. That wire is supposed to be green or bare, he probably used what he had laying around.
Sounds like it based on the other posts in this thread. Cheating on wire colour is one thing, cheating on wire ampacity is an absolute no-no. Post the specs or check what the manufacturer recommends.
Just convention, probably intended to trip up the beginners.
matt_i
Well-known member
I would agree with that advice. I don't think it comes brand new with that metallic "whip" on there. Take pictures of where the wires are landed and that will give you (or the forum) more information on what to land where.