deck screw removal tip?

[Kaizen]

I would think, and I do most of the time, especially in anything but brand new wet wood, that you would predrill a hole nearly the length of the screw. I find that many say the drill size should equal the minor diameter. IDK what the manufacturer of the screws, deck boards, or both have to say about lube. I personally like a touch of bar soap, like Ivory. It's supposed to be just soap, nothing more.

I don't think it is corrosive or damaging to the wood, but I'll admit I haven't spent hours reading on this. Maybe someone uses mineral oil, who knows? Actually I haven't tried that and it doesn't sound bad.

sorry my thinking was the actual hole makes space for water to sit and that is what causes the rot. we'll see in 20 years i guess

 

[whateg01]

sounds like those screws are more trouble than they are worth!

 

[Zeke]

sorry my thinking was the actual hole makes space for water to sit and that is what causes the rot. we'll see in 20 years i guess

If the drill is the minor dimension of the drill shank, I don't see where there is any room for water. Moisture is gonna follow any nail or screw.

Somehow I thought you were plugging the holes or otherwise sealing them. That's generally how I do face attachments. I've been using underside attachments since 1996 whenever/wherever I can. There are a lot more choices today.

 

[BombShelter]

I use a trusted Makita Impact with Spax Screws (square drive) from Menards. I only use wood and never composites but going back to wood class in college, I think the Trex is plastic mixed with wood, maybe other products now and they're giving you issues, I can easily see the plastic melting and putting too much torque on the drill.

With a few exceptions, I always predrill a hole, it doesn't have to be full size, even smaller diameters help out a ton. I work around a lot of decks, if you have one 20 years old, your doing great, at least up here where we have four hard-core extreme seasons.