My parents dehydrator went out on them and I took it apart to see if there were any quick fixes. Thermal fuse was good so I checked out the control board and found this guy was burnt out. Any way to get another one of these? It looks like a resistor but I do not think thanks what it is
Dehydrator PCB board parts
- Thread starter v1ru5879
- Start date
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
On the board right beneath the part is says "ZNR". I'd bet it's a Zener Diode.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Says F1? Fuse?
Meursault74
Well-known member
I'd start here first.
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walta
Well-known member
Yes, it is a fuse but you will need to clean the metal ends and read its value in amps.
Wild guess is 10 amps
Walta
Wild guess is 10 amps
Walta
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Yep that’s a fuse. Any markings on it? Usually they’re stamped in the metal...
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
With the fuse blowing there may be other bad components as the fuse is just warning you of a component drawing too much current
Jim greengo
Well-known member
How much is a new board?
BillK
Well-known member
First thing I would do is out an ohmeter across the two spots where the fuse is connected. Probably going to see a dead short by the looks of the fuse. Then you need to figure out what made it blow. Replacing the fuse is probably a waste of time without finding the actual problem.
You should be able to find a 12 amp 250 volt fuse at Home Depot but you will have to solder the leads to it.
You should be able to find a 12 amp 250 volt fuse at Home Depot but you will have to solder the leads to it.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
The fuse essentially prevented a fire from igniting inside the appliance. A dead short would probably not trip the breaker as there is too much resistance with the small cord and other components...
walta
Well-known member
Soldering wires to a fuse is not an easy feat to pull off. You should look for a pigtail fuse that comes with the wires welded to the fuse.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1521465731...4FMWIMMfehdXcuwFvGi3aoqmCT6VUujxoCnxMQAvD_BwE
I agree the blown fuse maybe the symptom of the problem and not the root cause. But I see that the board is discolored seems like there may have been a bad connection where it is discolored the heat from the bad connection may well have damaged the fuse and replacing the fuse may well fix the problem.
Walta
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1521465731...4FMWIMMfehdXcuwFvGi3aoqmCT6VUujxoCnxMQAvD_BwE
I agree the blown fuse maybe the symptom of the problem and not the root cause. But I see that the board is discolored seems like there may have been a bad connection where it is discolored the heat from the bad connection may well have damaged the fuse and replacing the fuse may well fix the problem.
Walta
I got a 10 pack on amazon that will be here tomorrow with the legs on it already. On the underneath one of the legs looked like a cold joint so I will try the replacement and see if it does anything. Worse case I am out 8 bucks. As far as getting a new board, how would I go about finding one? Just an ebay search maybe?
Jim greengo
Well-known member
Google it and see if a board pops up.
Furnace and appliance boards get changed all the time,its usually not a huge deal.
Furnace and appliance boards get changed all the time,its usually not a huge deal.
Jim greengo
Well-known member
Or post the model number off of the machine and maybe the number off of the board.
I can check at my favorite place for appliance parts and see if they show a board for it next time I'm over there.
I can check at my favorite place for appliance parts and see if they show a board for it next time I'm over there.
BillK
Well-known member
My first call would be the manufacturer of the dehydrator. Why would you mess with E-bay ??
Jim greengo
Well-known member
Supply house would probably a better shot.
walta
Well-known member
Please post a link to the fuses you ordered.
I look on Amazon but failed to find any I thought was a match.
Walta
I look on Amazon but failed to find any I thought was a match.
Walta
RPH
Well-known member
Digikey
VG_S 5pcs T12AH250V T12A250V Ceramic Body Axial Lead Fuse Time-Lag Slow-Blow 5x20mm 12 Amp T12AH 250V with Pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0893KH8KV/?tag=atomicindus08-20
These are the ones I ordered, I have a feeling it's gonna be a bit longer but it's the same specs. Wish me luck
These are the ones I ordered, I have a feeling it's gonna be a bit longer but it's the same specs. Wish me luck
good luck with the fuse replacement . if you're very very lucky that's all that's wrong
pizza
Well-known member
yes, try that first. if it's not a short...
then if you don't have the ability to actually troubleshoot the circuit and do component level repair beyond this fuse, then short the fuse out and see if the board works again. if it doesn't work, then don't waste your money buying new fuses. find a new board.
Finally got around to putting this fuse in. Used soome solder wick to get the remnants of the old legs out and got this one put in as close down as possible. So far everything seems to be working fine. I ran it as hot as it would go (160f), and let it run for 15 mins. I am guessing the fuse was the fix. Gonna run it some more and see what happens, fingers crossed that this was a quick fix!
Dagny
Well-known member
do you have an ampmeter
great!
I have a southwire multimeter. What do you suggest I do?
Dagny
Well-known member
I meant a clamp on .
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Its probably not rated for very many pass-thru amps
slimpickins
Well-known member
You may have had a voltage spike!
I'm late to the party here, but that blue component next to the fuse appears to be a varistor (MOV "Metal Oxide Varistor") which is a surge protection device. (AKA a Voltage Dependent Resistor or VDR) They work by reducing their resistance dramatically when a power spike happens. They are installed across the power lines, and normally have a very high resistance. If you had a spike, the varistor essentially shorts out the spike, and if it is a big enough surge, it will cause the fuse to blow. That's how they protect the circuit. Their response time is in micro- to milli-seconds.
In any case, the varistor may look fine but may be damaged internally and have a lower resistance, and current flowing through it. Voltage spikes will eventually kill them - the bigger the spikes the shorter they last.
If you still have access to the board, I recommend checking the resistance across the varistor. It should read as "open" or very high resistance, Mega-ohms or higher under normal conditions. The varistor should also feel cold or cool to the touch. If it is warm, that means it is carrying current and is likely damaged.
They are inexpensive to replace.
I'm late to the party here, but that blue component next to the fuse appears to be a varistor (MOV "Metal Oxide Varistor") which is a surge protection device. (AKA a Voltage Dependent Resistor or VDR) They work by reducing their resistance dramatically when a power spike happens. They are installed across the power lines, and normally have a very high resistance. If you had a spike, the varistor essentially shorts out the spike, and if it is a big enough surge, it will cause the fuse to blow. That's how they protect the circuit. Their response time is in micro- to milli-seconds.
In any case, the varistor may look fine but may be damaged internally and have a lower resistance, and current flowing through it. Voltage spikes will eventually kill them - the bigger the spikes the shorter they last.
If you still have access to the board, I recommend checking the resistance across the varistor. It should read as "open" or very high resistance, Mega-ohms or higher under normal conditions. The varistor should also feel cold or cool to the touch. If it is warm, that means it is carrying current and is likely damaged.
They are inexpensive to replace.