Delta drill press restoration.

[SquareWave]

Hello there. This is my first Delta drill press and I absolutely love this thing! It's such a tank and well built. Since purchasing this press I find myself searching for more old tools to replace all the modern equipment in my shop!

Hopefully some of you experienced restorers can chime in if you have any advice. I've gotten the entire unit apart and prepped the parts for the blast cabinet.

Question #1 what is the proper way to clean up the pinion-shaft return spring. Do I take the spring out to clean it? Or try to clean out the gunk with it still coiled in the housing?

#2 does anyone have a part number for the little rivets that hold on the data tags? I post a photo of my side plates

#3 what are your preferable method for striping all the paint off the parts?

Thanks everyone

 

[JHuston]

Square wave, congratulations on the drill press; I have the same version of 17" ( the model number is 17-210, slow speed, production table, M2 taper spindle) and have nothing but good to say of it.
I actually repair power tools and stationary machines for a living. What I like to do with return springs is pull them out of the case ( point it away from you and wear gloves), clean the thoroughly with mineral spirits, wipe them with a thin film of oil, then wrap them back into the case. It's usually difficult to start them back in unless you use pliers to hold a couple of turns; once established, you can twist it back in by hand without much trouble.

The drive screws are probably a #2.

Paint removal tactics vary by condition of paint, what the painted surface is made out of, and other considerations, but I generally use a needle scaler on cast iron and wire wheels on sheet metal/ steel components. Sandblasting is great for castings, so long as you put duct tape over any machined surfaces, but it can give anything that's not getting painted a frosted appearance of the wrong media is used.
Good luck!
- James Huston

 

[SquareWave]

Square wave, congratulations on the drill press; I have the same version of 17" ( the model number is 17-210, slow speed, production table, M2 taper spindle) and have nothing but good to say of it.
I actually repair power tools and stationary machines for a living. What I like to do with return springs is pull them out of the case ( point it away from you and wear gloves), clean the thoroughly with mineral spirits, wipe them with a thin film of oil, then wrap them back into the case. It's usually difficult to start them back in unless you use pliers to hold a couple of turns; once established, you can twist it back in by hand without much trouble.

The drive screws are probably a #2.

Paint removal tactics vary by condition of paint, what the painted surface is made out of, and other considerations, but I generally use a needle scaler on cast iron and wire wheels on sheet metal/ steel components. Sandblasting is great for castings, so long as you put duct tape over any machined surfaces, but it can give anything that's not getting painted a frosted appearance of the wrong media is used.
Good luck!
- James Huston

I will definitely take the spring out and clean it as you suggested. Hopefully I won't have too much trouble putting it back together like I did my lawnmower pull start mechanism.
As far as the paint goes, it was painted over with what appears to be some kind of dull house paint. I can't stand the color of this thing and I for the life of me can't figure out why they would paint over the OEM grey. The original colors were so good looking in my opinion.

I'm probably going to use my blast cabinet to clean most of the paint off. But I am interested in the needle scaler. I will see about borrowing one from work to try it.


Thanks for your input James!!

 

[Davefr]

Try stripping the outer layer of house paint and if you're lucky you'll find a nice grey factory finish. Delta OEM paint was very tough stuff. I'd try acetone and 0000 steel wool in an inconspicuous spot. Acetone might not effect the Delta OEM finish but it might just remove the house paint. I've done 4 Delta 17-600's and stripping them down to bare metal will be pretty miserable job without good old Methyl Chloride which is now banned.

I would soak the spring in solvent and then oil it with clock spring oil. There's no way in hell I'd remove it from the case. I hate springs and they hate me!!

The nameplate rivets could be drive screws or escutcheon pins. You can get them from Mcmaster. Drive screws might not be brass.

Please post your experience with whatever stripping method you choose.

 

[SquareWave]

Try stripping the outer layer of house paint and if you're lucky you'll find a nice grey factory finish. Delta OEM paint was very tough stuff. I'd try acetone and 0000 steel wool in an inconspicuous spot. Acetone might not effect the Delta OEM finish but it might just remove the house paint. I've done 4 Delta 17-600's and stripping them down to bare metal will be pretty miserable job without good old Methyl Chloride which is now banned.

I would soak the spring in solvent and then oil it with clock spring oil. There's no way in hell I'd remove it from the case. I hate springs and they hate me!!

The nameplate rivets could be drive screws or escutcheon pins. You can get them from Mcmaster. Drive screws might not be brass.

Please post your experience with whatever stripping method you choose.

Dave, I just read your post and just happened to have acetone and steel wool 0000. The steel wool was too light for this paint so I tried red scotch bright with both acetone and lacquer thiner and that definitely worked. But I realized it would have taken some delicate scrubbing to take only the green off. But it was worth a try and if I had just a few small pieces I definitely will use this method. BUT I just finished refurbishing my blast cabinet and I'm eager to put it to work so for now im going to blast these pieces and give this thing a brand new paint job.

 

[Jayman17]

I’ve used full strength Simple Green to remove paint from vintage tool parts.
Just soak it submerged overnight and the paint should rinse off.

Jay

 

[MBeaty]

Question #1 what is the proper way to clean up the pinion-shaft return spring. Do I take the spring out to clean it? Or try to clean out the gunk with it still coiled in the housing?

#2 does anyone have a part number for the little rivets that hold on the data tags? I post a photo of my side plates


Thanks everyone

For the return spring you can go ahead and take it apart. The return spring housing should have threads cut into the body that mate with a bolt in the head casting. This bolt interacts with the threads and should make rewinding the spring in place an easy job. I restored one almost just like this and remember worrying about getting it back together, but had no issues due to the design.

Drill Press Restoration

Here is a link to my restoration if you are interested. Since the original post, I had some issues with the VFD and it was replaced with a newer model, both other than that it has been a great machine.


The rivets are called drive screws and they can be found quite affordably from McMaster Carr Drive Screws

 

[GCS]

“What I like to do with return springs is pull them out of the case ( point it away from you and wear gloves), clean the thoroughly with mineral spirits, wipe them with a thin film of oil, then wrap them back into the case.”

What type of oil? I would think motor oil would be too heavy.

Davefr recommended clock spring oil, but not an oil in my inventory.


Thanks in advance

 

[JEFinCLE]

My favorite paint removal process at this point is Purple Power. Grease, gunk, and paint all removed with an overnight soak. It's relatively inexpensive and doesn't have solvents. Hose it down (hot water if you have it) and dry it off then take it to the blast cabinet to get rid of any corrosion and smooth out the surface.

 

[Tarnished]

squaewave: Nice machine. Should clean up well. If you haven't been to the Old Wood Working Machines site I suggest you take a look here: Delta 17" DP. Just an amazing amount of information available at the site.

 

[jmarkwolf]

Be advised the original paint is probably leaded, so take proper precautions.

 

[SquareWave]

Quick update

So far I got all of the bearings replaced to include the motor. And I was able to sand blast a couple parts clean. I need to stop by the hardware store and pick up some primer on my way home today.

A big thanks to everyone that has replied to this post, I appreciate the guidance.

Jmarkwolf is right about the leaded paint, I think I will soak the remaining parts and see what happens.

Other than some paint and maybe some fresh hardware the only thing I need going forward is a VFD.

 

[Davefr]

You are going to service the spindle/quill assembly aren't you?

I'd recommend the Teco L510 VFD. Program it so it displays the spindle speed at your preferred belt setting. I'd also recommend you mount the VFD alongside the motor with a power switch on the opposite end so you can disconnect the VFD from the mains. The VFD will be pretty well protected from dust/debris in this location. I would absolutely build a remote control and a great place for it is right under the front of the belt guard.

 

[SquareWave]

You are going to service the spindle/quill assembly aren't you?

I'd recommend the Teco L510 VFD. Program it so it displays the spindle speed at your preferred belt setting. I'd also recommend you mount the VFD alongside the motor with a power switch on the opposite end so you can disconnect the VFD from the mains. The VFD will be pretty well protected from dust/debris in this location. I would absolutely build a remote control and a great place for it is right under the front of the belt guard.

Dave, yes I have that same VFD saved in my Amazon shopping cart.

Your drill press looks great!! And yes I'm gonna build a mount for it similar to yours. Where did you get that remote? Does that remote control speed?

Thanks for the motovation!

 

[Davefr]

Dave, yes I have that same VFD saved in my Amazon shopping cart.

Your drill press looks great!! And yes I'm gonna build a mount for it similar to yours. Where did you get that remote? Does that remote control speed?

Thanks for the motovation!

My remote has a start/stop switch and a speed control. You can also wire it for forward reverse but I almost never do L.H. drilling and if I do it's a simple parameter change on the L510. The manual shows all this. The box is a Hammond enclosure with a SPST switch and a 5K potentiometer. (very simple to wire and co convenient). (Mouser, Digikey or maybe Amazon for the parts.)

 

[SquareWave]

My remote has a start/stop switch and a speed control. You can also wire it for forward reverse but I almost never do L.H. drilling and if I do it's a simple parameter change on the L510. The manual shows all this. The box is a Hammond enclosure with a SPST switch and a 5K potentiometer. (very simple to wire and co convenient). (Mouser, Digikey or maybe Amazon for the parts.)

Your the man Dave thats a very clever way the control the drill press, and looks good too.

I'm set on the L510. I will order that soon.

Unfortunately I will have to take a small break from this project because my job is sending me out of the country for a week or 2. BUT I will be ready to put this all back together as soon as I get back.

Thanks

 

[SquareWave]

Does anyone know what color the A.O. Smith motors were painted?

Does anyone have any photos of original A.O. Smith motors?

 

[Glasshole3rd]

I have a press for someone it's early 1930s great condition works no prob. Also have a table saw as well Delta , how much are they worth

 

[SquareWave]

Update!

After a 3 week work trip to Germany I'm finally back in my shop putting the drill press back together. I snad blasted most of the parts in my cabinet but for the large awkward table and base plate I used a needle scaler.

I ended up using sandpaper to clean up the pole. Basically rolling the pole with one hand and sand paper in the other hand. It worked well with wet/dry 800/1000/1500/2500 grit with some soap and water.

I was told that the original A.O. Smith motor was most likely two tone so I painted the end caps black. I really like how it came out.

@Davefr I took your advise and got the VFD. And I will be ordering the switch and potentiometer at some point.

 

[SquareWave]

I got most of the press put back together, im very happy with the way it came out so far.

 

[SquareWave]

I won 2 lots from a local auction site, and got this vice and arbor press for 50 each.

 

[larry4406]

I won 2 lots from a local auction site, and got this vice and arbor press for 50 each.

Serious suckage there dude!

 

[SquareWave]

About finished up, I really like the way it came out. Today I will pick up a power cord for the VFD and make a mount for it.
I'm still undecided if I want to put a light on it nor not.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Beautiful work SquareWave

 

[Davefr]

I a

Beautiful work SquareWave

I agree. It looks great!! I'd definitely add a gooseneck light.

 

[SquareWave]

Beautiful work SquareWave

Thanks JoCo I really appreciate it!!

 

[SquareWave]

I a

I agree. It looks great!! I'd definitely add a gooseneck light.

Thanks Davefr, your photos definitely helped my motivation! I do need a few things but its almost functional.

 

[Jayman17]

I won 2 lots from a local auction site, and got this vice and arbor press for 50 each.

Wow, I keep my eye on local auctions too but I missed those two items, nice score on those and I will add a “you ****”. Was that auction in Tacoma?
Great job on that DP too, it turned out very nice!

Jay

 

[Tarnished]

SquareWave: Great looking DP. Should be around for the next 75 years now. You'll love that DP with a VFD.

 

[SquareWave]

Wow, I keep my eye on local auctions too but I missed those two items, nice score on those and I will add a “you ****”. Was that auction in Tacoma?
Great job on that DP too, it turned out very nice!

Jay

Cyber auctions and govdeals mostly. I got the vise and arbornpress from Lynnwood auction.

Thanks, I definitely enjoyed working on the drill press. I got a few grinders and an old compressor in the que next for restoration.

 

[Jayman17]

I’ve recently finished a bench grinder myself and have another bench grinder, a couple vises, a DP and a belt disc sander combo to restore next.

 

[SquareWave]

I’ve recently finished a bench grinder myself and have another bench grinder, a couple vises, a DP and a belt disc sander combo to restore next.

Lmao, our garages probably look alike! I got mostly the same stuff you have