Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

[D.F.B]

I've been looking forward to this! A day in the garage with two cars to detail and nowhere else to be! Despite the heat, nothing was going to stop me getting out there!

I decided to start on the Ranger. Like last week, no rain for several weeks now and everything is just so dry and dusty. The amount of brown that came off the crisp white paint was alarming. I gave the tyres a scrub with Brake Buster, the wheels got cleaned with NV Snow+. I then hit the paint with Megs Hyper Wash before finishing off a bottle of NV Boost v1 for the drying aid. I then vacuumed the interior and wiped everything down with Pilot. Glass with classic Invisible Glass, the engine bay given a quick wipe down with ECH20. I then topped the wheels with Amplify and dressed the tyres with Tire+.

With the Ranger sorted, it was the Jaaaaaag's turn next. Yep, it's on the road again........................

Today's theme was to focus on using NV products, kinda like a refresher after using mostly Amour stuff recently. You will note the Ranger was part of that, but the Jag got it more liberally.

NV Car Care – Nv Car Care USA

Shop NV Car Care Products Online | Waxit Car Care



I've been using NV Snow+ for many years now, but this is the first time I've sampled the latest version which is now colored in a vivid blue rather than clear, still unscented thought. Snow+ produces a runnier foam compared to Snow, but it has excellent dwell time to help break down dirt and grime.

With the Jag having recently done a 500km road trip to Geelong, I felt the need to be a little more thorough today. The engine bay was part of that, which was foamed with Snow+ and then agitated with a Detail Factory synthetic brush and EZ-Detail brush.......................





Rinsed, the entire engine bay was doused with Meguiar's Hyper Dressing mixed at 5:1 for a super subtle finish. If you have the 1:1 pre-mixed RTU bottle of Hyper Dressing, you will need to further water it down to achieve that natural finish. If you are using Carpro Perl, I'd probably use 2:1 or 3:1. Motorplast, use undiluted but know that it will be a more pronounced enhancement.



Don't stress about getting it on the painted sections, it's totally fine and doesn't harm anything or look greasy.



From here, you can simply close the hood and walk away, but I like to go over the engine bay with the EGO first. This removes excess water and helps distribute the Hyper Dressing. I then lower the hood and start the engine to help with drying. I typically leave the engine running while I clean the wheels, long enough to get things 95% dry under there. I will then return to the engine bay at the end of the detail.



With the rolling stock, I scrubbed the rubber with Wise Guy, needing two rounds as they were producing quite a bit of brown. The wheels were cleaned with NV Snow+. I then topped up the Hydr02 and spritzed the rotors with Atom Mac.



Dirtier than normal, I decided to pre-soak the car, again with Snow+............



After rinsing, it was time for the contact wash. Sticking with the NV theme, I switched to Snow. This version produces much thicker foam and has a lovely subtle scent. This is a world-class soap that I tend to forget how good it is.



S for Snow.....................



Clean and blown down with the EGO, I then grabbed another NV product, Boost v2. It's been a very long time since I used this product, and I'm sad to say, Boost has been left behind. It's easy enough to use, but after grabbing ADS Amplify to wipe down the door jambs, Boost just doesn't have the user experience. Amplify is far slicker, far easier to work with and smells absolutely epic.



Overall, Boost v2 feels and behaves much like P&S Defender, as in it doesn't have much lubrication underneath the towel and feels quite grabby to use. So, while longevity is supposed to be decent, the user experience just isn't good enough.

From here, I vacuumed the interior then wiped everything down with ADS Pilot. I also needed to clean the driver seat and steering wheel, selecting Carpro Cleanse. What a dud of a product, one of Carpro's worst. Likewise, the matching Lotion that followed. Actually, I'm annoyed at myself for wasting time using these two. After cleaning the glass, it was time to return to the exterior.

The Wise Guy did a great job resetting the tyres, ready for dressing.



Once again, NV was in the box seat, with Onyx being chosen for the tyres. Compared to Boost which has fallen behind, Onyx is still one of my absolute favorite tyre dressings. It's velvet smooth to apply, offers a just-right enhancement, and smells divine.







Finally, I returned to the engine bay with a towel to level off any Hyper Dressing high spots. I used to detest engine bay detailing, but the method I have adopted makes it a breeze. And doing it like this on a periodic basis, it means you don't need to spend hours fastidiously cleaning nooks and crannies.



Back to spec........................



Returning to NV, it's amazing how fast things move. Five years ago, the NV brand was punching well above it's weight across most of the product line. But other than Boost v2, not much has changed. Without doubt, the soaps are still class leading, as is Purge, Purify and Onyx. However, I think its time for some reformulation elsewhere.

 

[littlebean]

great write up (as always) - I'm amazed at the amount of different products you try out!

 

[D.F.B]

The Wildtrak came back from the panel shop earlier this week. There were four areas of repair after damage caused by vandalism, an elderly unlicensed driver running into the right rear, a bird strike taking out the left rear-view mirror, and a careless driver clipping the front bumper.

This was caused by some drug fu.ked degenerate walking the streets late at night. This happened quite a while ago, but with Dad getting sick, floods............time got away.







The below happened late last year and necessitated another insurance claim, only a few days before it was due to go in to have the above repaired. Some old guy who wasn't paying attention run into the right rear, crushing the bumper and shattering the taillight.



It also had a new set of tyres fitted before it made the 1500+ km round trip to the Tour Down Under a few weeks ago..............Dad's a cycling nerd, he likes pedal power, I like horsepower. A fresh set of Bridgestone Dueler H/T fitted by the Bridgestone dealer...............who also scraped the face on two wheels. Why is it so hard for people to do their jobs without destroying someone else's property. I'm so fu.king fed up with the sheer incompetence from people who work on cars for a living. They just don't ****** care, so long as they get paid at the end of the day, why should they care how the job gets done, so long as it gets done.

Apart from needing a wash, I also had to deal with those new tires. Yes, in addition to ruining two wheels, they also slathered that hideous silicone stuff on the tyres.

First, I did two rounds with Shine Supply Wise Guy, diluted at the suggested 1:1. The first round produced moderate browning, the second came back clear. I also gave them a third scrub when I foamed the wheel and wheel arch with Brake Buster.





After dealing with the rest of the exterior and interior, I returned to the tyres.

At this point I would normally get out the Tarminator for one last scrub of the tyres, but today I decided to try using mineral turpentine/mineral spirits for the first time. Tarminator and mineral turpentine are both solvents that work in the same way on tyres, helping to strip away any lingering grime and delivering a completely bare rubber surface. Simply spray into a towel and rub the sidewall until it flashes away.



This is NOT something you should do regularly, but as a periodic reset, it can save a lot of time and effort scrubbing with a traditional tyre cleaner. In this case, the solvent also easily removes the manufacturing paint dots that a tyre cleaner will not even touch.

Next, I went around with a set of clippers and de-nibbed the sidewalls. Completely pointless, but once you've done it, there is no going back.



With the hard work done, the tyres were completely clean and bare. Time for the finishing touch, this time ADS Ghost. Compared to the Michelin Agilis on my Ranger, these Bridgestone's seemed to soak up the product. As such, after 10-minutes I decided to apply a second coat for a more uniform finish.





That second coat did increase the gloss though, taking it from a matte finish to a satin sheen. Still, I really like the finish Ghost leaves behind.

At some stage, I really need to get stuck into the Wildtrak. I've been limping it through on spray sealants to buy me time, but now that it's been repaired, I want to get it recoated. The paint also needs to be clayed. So, once the weather cools down, I'll be giving it a full chemical and mechanical decontamination, followed by a light polish and applying Can Coat EVO. I got about 15-months out of it last time and really appreciated how much easier the vehicle was to clean each month.

Bring on Autumn!

 

[Dixie_Flatline]

Allow me to pick your brain for a moment. What are you using on the windshield? For the longest time I used Rain-X, when I ran out I used whatever product I was using at the time, like Beadmaker. Then I got some PIAA blades and those packets of prep worked amazingly well, so much so that I thought about buying more of them. We had a torrential downpour yesterday, and the rental car I was driving had absolutely nothing on the glass, which was a reminder of sorts to take on my own glass again since I could not see a thing. So, hydrophobic coatings for glass, what's your take?

 

[D.F.B]

Allow me to pick your brain for a moment. What are you using on the windshield? For the longest time I used Rain-X, when I ran out I used whatever product I was using at the time, like Beadmaker. Then I got some PIAA blades and those packets of prep worked amazingly well, so much so that I thought about buying more of them. We had a torrential downpour yesterday, and the rental car I was driving had absolutely nothing on the glass, which was a reminder of sorts to take on my own glass again since I could not see a thing. So, hydrophobic coatings for glass, what's your take?

There are plenty of glass-specific ceramic coatings on the market, but I don't bother with them. Unless you are managing your wipers, as in not dry wiping for no reason or just running them constantly, the wipers end up killing the coating on the windscreen pretty quickly. If you are obsessive, then certainly, go ahead and coat the glass, two layers for the windscreen, and then limit the use of the wipers. Some will question that last remark, but honestly, once you have something on the glass, you really don't need the wipers all the time.

I prefer glass sealants. They don't last as long, but are quicker, easier and more user friendly to apply. My go-to in recent years has been Gyeon Q2 Quick View. The beauty of this product is the integrated felt applicator, so all you need to apply it is the product itself and a two towels.





To apply, I'd probably apply this after washing the whole vehicle as you are then dealing with clean glass and surrounding trim. Gyeon also suggest claying the glass as well, which is probably a good idea for the first application or if the glass is neglected. You could also do this while the car is still soapy from the wash to save time and having to re-dry the glass. I tend to use a synthetic clay sponge or towel.



Regardless of if you clayed first or not, follow with an IPA based prep spray or glass cleaner to remove any lingering soap residue or clay lube. I like Carpro Eraser, but Gyeon Prep is great too, or an IPA glass cleaner.



From here, you squeeze the bottle to saturate the felt applicator, then apply to the glass, squeezing for more product as needed. It will go on super wet, almost like IPA. It will then start to haze up. From here, allow the product to set up and bond to the glass, usually 5 - 10 minutes depending on temperature.



The best way to remove buff away the residue is to take a towel, saturate and wring out till damp. Wipe over the glass section by section. This will leave the glass somewhat streaky, so I then go back over the glass with my normal glass cleaning procedure, which doesn't harm the sealant you just applied.



You should get 2 - 4 months out of it depending on maintenance and wiper use. Typically, the windscreen will fail long before the sides, you in effect you may only need to reapply to the windshield. Maintenance wise, you could just use you Bead Maker or other Si02 drying aid.

If that all sounds too involved, then there is another way......................a vastly quicker and easier way.

The following product I bought on impulse with absolutely no expectation, Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect.

Opti-Coat - Opti-Glass Clean & Protect | The Rag Company

Opti-Coat® Glass Clean & Protect is designed to clean and boost your Opti-Glass™ Pro Coating with a simple wipe on, wipe off application. It will clean glass surfaces without streaking while the polymers will bond to glass surfaces and continue to add protection every time you use this product.

theragcompany.com

For Australian readers, it's probably easier to buy the Optimum branded version of this product -

Optimum Opti Glass Clean & Protect (504ml)

Optimum Opti-Glass Clean & Protect - A ready-to-use formula for cleaner and protected glass. Boosts Optimum Glass Coating with water repellency. Shop now!

detailingshed.com.au

I'm glad I took a punt on this because its super easy to use and offers exceptional water beading ability. It's also vastly better than Carpro's attempt at same type of product, which I found difficult to get streak free.



To apply, just use it as you would a glass cleaner, so there is no special technique or the need for damp towels ect. I tend to alternate each wash with this and a normal glass cleaner. Don't apply to the interior glass though.



The other thing you could do when travelling in rentals, put some in a small misting bottle and put in your bag with a towel. Apply it when you collect the car and you're set.

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

 

[D.F.B]

On my now daily eBay (ever-buy-a-yak), I landed on a full blade, bolt and washer set for the Victa 18. While I had the correct bolts and blades, I had to use a combination of the original cupped washers and new flat washers to get them fitted to my liking. These kits are way over-complicated to what a modern blade and bolt set consists of. Those white-coloured washers are actually made of felt............1950's technology.



I also got into a bidding war on an original Victa Special spanner, but I bailed once the bidding went above $100.................crazy money for something so basic and likely never be used other than for display on the mower. I'll keep looking.

 

[D.F.B]

Tried out a new addition that arrived at Christmas.

Sydney Tools

sydneytools.com.au

I didn't want or need a giant parts washer, mainly for space reasons. I also didn't want something that would stink out the garage, which ruled out most of the bench-top options on the market. This was the compromise, perfectly sized and able to be closed and sealed up.

I also like to avoid the use of solvents if I can help it, they certainly get the job done but I really hate the stench that lingers for hours in the garage or on my hands. Having used Bilt Hamber Surfex to great success in the past, I decided to try it as a washer solution as well. After doing some reading, it seems others are using it for this role as well, not as effective as a solvent but still a viable option.

BILT HAMBER SURFEX HD All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser APC

BILT HAMBER SURFEX HD All Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser (APC) Multi-Purpose Cleaner and Degreaser (APC) With increasing restrictions on the use of solvent-containing degreasers and cleaners safer, water-based materials have been developed. However, it has been difficult to match the performance...

detailingshed.com.au

So, I bought a 5-litre bottle of it and mixed it at 2:1. With this model holding 9-litres, that meant 6-litres of water and 3-litres of Surfex. A 5-litre bottle will mix up 15-litres of solution. If needed, Surfex can be used next, but for what I need it to do, I think 2:1 will be fine.



The test subject was this Victa G4 carburetor which I bought used last year. When I bought it, the sale note said that it was "clean, ready to go".................yeah right, the thing hosed down but had dirt all through it. Because I actually bought it for the intake snorkel that was attached to it, the condition of the carb didn't really matter to me. On a brighter note, it would serve as a learning tool, as in teach me how to fully refurbish these strange carburetors.



I should have bought a parts washer years ago! The fact that you are washing away the dirt as its lifted means you aren't just rubbing it back into the part. I'm sure everyone who has used these for years knowns that, but it's a new discovery for me. On this sort of material, the supplied nylon brush attachment is a little stiff, which I supplemented with an old boars hair detailing brush.

I said strange earlier because these carburetors function as the fuel delivery, governor and ignition kill via the throttle cam all in the same unit. Typically, your kill switch is separate to the carb, likewise the governor on a 4-stroke.



With everything clean, it was then time to reassemble. I stocked up on G4 parts a few weeks ago, so I had everything on hand to replace what needed replacing. The metal diaphragm washer on this carb was rusted to the diaphragm itself, so both went in the bin and new items used. I also replaced the cracked primer cap and o-ring in addition to a new needle. The ignition wire rubber boots were also replaced.



All put back together. I could technically sell this if I wanted, but I think I'll just keep it as a spare should the needs arise.



I also pulled the blade disk of the Victa 18 to install the correct blade hardware. Compared to the bolt, nylon washer and nylock nut arrangement on a modern Victa, these things are quite over complicated. Having the correct cap washers in conjunction with the felt washers, the blades were held in place as intended, firm but still moveable should the blades strike something. I feel much better knowing the blades are on properly now.





I then went and cut the front lawns with it, I even did the neighbors while I was at it. Not sure my neighborhood enjoyed the sound of an old, noisy Victa 2-stroke on a sleepy Sunday afternoon, but I certainly did!

 

[D.F.B]

Finally, some good news regarding Koch Chemie in Australia...................

"Waxit is now the new home for Koch Chemie in Australia!

Buying direct from Germany, you can now browse the world renown range with no “middle-man markups” - saving up to 40% in Australia!

New products, fresh stock & the full range - come check it out!"

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/koch-chemie

I have complained quite a lot about the excessive markups with Koch Chemie products, in particular the in-demand products. For example, a 1lt bottle of GSF shampoo was a $54.95 proposition. Just not worth it when the same size bottle of Reset was $20.00 cheaper. Well, that bottle of GSF is now $34.95!!!

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-cleaning-foam

Now, the brand is accessible! When I was at Waxit last year, this subject came up many times. I was the only hobbyist in the group, the rest were professionals using products to help them make money. All present said they just couldn't justify paying the price premium to use KCx products, even if they were class leaders. Hopefully, this announcement will benefit all users.

 

[D.F.B]

I can't believe how hard it is to buy a replacement / alternative air filter for these.

I came across this video in my searches, and went looking for the Mann C88 filter, but it looks to be NLA.

After sifting through countless filters online, I came across this Baldwin PA1834 which on paper suggested it would fit.

PA1834 Baldwin Air Filter

Compatible with: 92320117, 859, A1041C, 93415, 800509, 7988087, 268751, 25096266, 224A, 268752, 70602S, 4ZET7, 49047, 268752, MFP475A, AFR84125, A51, AAF4996, A84, A636, A84, AAF4996, AF4125, AF2014, AF048050P, MFP475, AG341, ARM402A, AP475, AG341, ARM402, APP475A, AP475, MD216, CA2661, BSA4125...

www.filterdiscounters.com.au

These are the original filter dimensions -

Outside Diameter – 90mm
Inside Diameter – 40mm
Height – 60mm

These are the Baldwin dimensions -

Outside Diameter – 89.7mm
Inside Diameter – 50.8mm
Height – 50mm

So, I took a punt and placed an order.



My heart dropped when the outer diameter was just a shade too big to clear the indents on the filter housing. A little gentle persuasion on the outer rim of the filter with a hammer and it was fitting nicely. Just like in the video, there is a height difference between the old and new, so I used an foam tyre dressing applicator as padding, which I traced and cut to fit the central intake.



The new filter fits snuggly in place, just at the right height. My main problem is the broken tab on the lower filter housing doesn't hold the cap in place firmly to help seal the filter to the base. I'm still looking for a replacement, so had to resort to cable ties to hold it down. Not my usual style, but it will work for now.



I then went and cut the back lawn, which I had let grow a little taller than normal to test out the performance of the engine. Nothing beats a 2-stroke in heavier conditions, I just love how they sound when under load and powering through thicker growth. It's also interesting not having a traditional engine governor, the engine speed regulation is purely on the user. Not sure the neighbors appreciate the noise and smoke these engines make, but I'm having a ball! Actually, I'm surprised how well these mowers cut, the finish left behind is superb despite the lack of a catcher or a directional deck design or blades.

 

[D.F.B]

So many tradesmen in Australia buy dual cab pickups. The likes of the F-150 and RAM 1500 are reserved for the absolute top end of the market, most starting at around $115, 000 AUD..................only the site manager or developer can afford one of those. As such, the vast majority of tradesmen are buying what you call "mid-size" trucks. And I guess next to an F-150, a Ford Ranger would appear mid-size. The Ranger has been the number 1 selling vehicle in Australia the last two years, with the Toyota Hilux in second. Those positions were reversed for the years prior. So, in conjunction with the Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara, Isuzu D-Max and the slew of no-name Chinese made competitors flooding the market, these vehicles are what most people buy now. And I hate it.

These vehicles are a jack of all trades.........................master of NONE! With the exception of the Ranger that has the option of a 3.0 Powerstroke V6 Diesel and the EcoBoost V6 Raptor, the rest are powered by anemic four-cylinder diesels. All of these vehicles are big and heavy now, so even though the on-paper torque figure might look stout, those engines are extremely slow. So, if you load up the vehicle, you know, like it was apparently designed to do, there isn't enough grunt to spare. They are also sold for towing ability, up to 3.5 tonne / 7700 pounds. Again, most of them don't have enough engine to do so safely.

Then, because quite a lot of them are bought on the pretense of carrying passengers at the weekend, most people choose the dual cab over the space-cab or single cab. Not only does this make the tray/bed smaller, but those back seats are not exactly comfortable places to be. Most on the market don't even have air conditioning vents for the rear seats either. Imagine two or three kids in the back of one of these with no legroom, a rock-hard seat and no climate control...................murder on wheels!

And so, because the bed/tray is so ****** small, tradesmen then end up towing around a trailer to fit all their tools and materials. Which to me makes these vehicles utterly pointless. They are slow, not at all economical to run or service, aren't comfortable for those in the back seat, don't have enough grunt to tow or carry the weight the manufacturer claims they can, and the tray is so small that you then need to have a trailer, which is another set of registration, insurance and maintenance bills to pay. At the end of the day, I suspect most buy these things as a tax right off and because the government actively subsidizes the sale of them. So, you end up living with a vehicle that does absolutely nothing well at any point in time.

So, I always like to poke the bear when it comes to what I can fit in the bed of my single cab truck. Today, it was 10 bales of lucerne mulch, but also a variety of other tools and materials on previous occasions.





















I actually made the following comparison the other day..................................said by the man with two high powered V8's. I don't think it went down very well.

 

[kitdoctor]

Now that's what I need, a free push mower.

 

[D.F.B]

Look what I just scored............................

 

[D.F.B]

In light of yesterdays news, let's have a closer look at a few key Koch Chemie products that I think are worth having, starting with GSF.

GSF Backstory -

When Gentle Snow Foam GSF hit the market four or five years ago, it and Koch Chemie quickly became the new "it" brand. Back then, it was certainly a premium priced product, retailing for $39.95 for a 1-litre bottle. Many said that was too much, even though Carpro Reset was exactly the same price. I actually screenshotted this image back in late-2021.



That screen shot was taken because The Detail Store were paying for Facebook advertising on a product that was out of stock, and would be for another 6+ months. And so, this is where things started to go wrong with Koch Chemie in Australia.

Despite the products being in high demand, the local importer was struggling to keep up with demand. Now, there were outside factors at play here, a little thing called the Covid-19 pandemic, and the associated shipping and supply chain constraints certainly played a role. But even as the Covid situation eased, the Koch Chemie lineup was still under nourished. At one point, they even air freighted stock into the country.................. with the cost passed on to the consumer. This took a $40 bottle of soap up to $75!

Then at some point in the last two years, the distribution changed hands and the situation only got worse. Where GSF was once $39.95 per 1-litre bottle, in 2024 that same bottle was priced at $53.95. The same markup played out across the range, most notable with the larger 5- and 10-litre bottle sizes. And even if you could get past the price, more often than not various products were out of stock and would be for months. In this age of "I want it now", this just isn't good enough.

I mention all this because despite being a brilliant product, a soap that I had within my top 3 recommendations, the price was so ridiculous that I stopped recommending it. In fact, for a while I stopped buying GSF. For someone who values the user experience so much, even I couldn't justify it at those prices, not when Carpro Reset is just as, if not better than GSF.



Now that Waxit are buying directly from Germany, the price of GSF has settled back down to $34.95, and suddenly, GSF is back in the game for me.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collection...mie-gentle-snow-foam-ph-neutral-cleaning-foam

Why GSF?

I first used GSF on Christmas day 2020, it's divine cherry scent immediately impressed. Likewise, it's easy pour formula and terrific foaming ability. A few images from back then...................





From one of my posts at the end of December 2020 -

"The dilution rate from Koch Chemie asks for 20ml of product added to a 1lt foam lance bottle. At this rate, and with the hydrophobic coatings on my cars, the foam was too runny and had trouble clinging to the paint.

Today I added approximately 80ml to my foam cannon, the result being thick, shaving cream like foam."





From then on, I settled on between 100 - 150ml of GSF in a foam cannon. At that rate, you will get thick, luxurious foam with decent cling and exceptional slickness. You will also get high on that lovely cherry scent as it spices the air while you work your way around the car. This is a product that nails the user experience!



The only main drawback to GSF is the lack of ultimate cleaning ability, meaning its best used on well-maintained vehicles that have a nice layer of protection on the paint, be that a coating, wax or sealant. But then, that's the whole point of GSF, its pH neutral formula is designed to be gentle and ultra lubricated. Compared to say Carpro Reset or NV Snow, if your vehicle is waxed, GSF is going to preserve that wax for longer.



How To Use -

1. Start by filling up your foam cannon with about 850 to 900ml of tap water.

2. Add 100 - 150ml of GSF to your foam cannon. I always fill with water first to avoid the soap frothing up and overflowing the bottle when trying to do it the other way around.





3. Fill you wash bucket with water. Throw in your wash media, then add a generous slug of GSF directly onto the wash media.



4a. For light maintenance cleaning, rinse the car down thoroughly, then foam GSF by using slow, sweeping motions. Aim to use most of the foam cannon volume.

4b. For heavier cleaning, I'd suggest foaming the car from dry using a stronger soap first. Think Carpro Lift, Bilt Hamber Touch-less or Koch Chemie Active Foam. After allowing to soak, rinse thoroughly. From here, you can then foam with GSF.





5. Empty any remaining soap from the foam cannon into your wash bucket. Soap that has remained mixed up in a foam cannon for more than a day won't foam as well next time, this is because the minerals in the water attack the soap chemistry.

6. Go ahead and wash the vehicle. Work from top to bottom, rinsing your wash media in the bucket as you go. Avoid circular motions, instead work in straight lines.



7. Rinse thoroughly and dry.

Final Thoughts -

I feel like GSF is back in the game. As I said, I've always loved using this soap, but became quite jaded by the excessive price premium that was being asked. It's now priced to the point where I would say GSF is a bargain for the user experience it delivers. In fact, its now cheaper than Reset, while also offering more soap for the money when compared to various American brand competitors in 473ml bottles.

 

[D.F.B]

Very fast turnaround from Waxit on this order! :like:



I’ve been working through a backlog of products in recent months, mainly soaps that were bought purely to write about, but also because I’ve been occupied elsewhere. I’d also say that not much has caught my eye either. The recently launched Labocosmetica and MAFRA's Maniac Line don’t really grab me for some reason. And frankly, with how good the ADS stuff is, it's been a case of why keep looking for the next big thing?

But then Waxit threw a curve ball with Koch Chemie and suddenly I was excited again. Why, well because many of the products I ordered are new to Australia or new to me. Of those pictured above, only GSF and AS I have used before. The below is my current KCx collection, although Fresh Up and Speed Glass are absent.

Shop Koch Chemie Australia | Waxit Car Care



I really love the KCx branding and bottle design system, it's clean, clear and simple. Naturally, this doesn't determine how the products work, but it certainly looks appealing and stands out from the crowd. It's a complete contrast to the busy, overdone labels of P&S and Meguiar's.

The KCx brush sets are also new for Australia, in my case I went with the exterior set. I really like the thought put into these, the head and handle can be configured with or without the angle piece. They also have a rubberized handles.

Koch Chemie Exterior Brush Set – Waxit Car Care
Koch Chemie Interior Brush Set – Waxit Car Care

KOCH CHEMIE Exterior Brush Set – Car Supplies Warehouse
KOCH CHEMIE Interior Brush Set KCX – Car Supplies Warehouse

There are four different bristle grades -

Red: Stiff nylon, probably best left to heavily neglected wheels.

Orange: Boars hair, ideal for wheels and unpainted plastics. I'd also consider it for interior cleaning as well.

Yellow: Medium stiffness synthetic bristles, ideal for plastics and rubber.

Green: Soft synthetic bristles, use on sensitive surfaces, think chrome or piano black or gloss black wheels. This one would be fine for interior work as well.









And finally, after reading so much positive feedback, I've decided to give the Carpro Dab Dab wash pad a try.

CARPRO DabDab Wash Mitt – Waxit Car Care

CARPRO DabDab Wash Tool

 

[ajohno]

Thanks DFB. Great info as always.
You should start selling products now you have a little extra time on your hands. Work in with OG.

Easy to read and understand.

Thanks again now more money to spend.

 

[D.F.B]

Koch Chemie GS Green Star and Koch Chemie PO Pol Star

I’ve decided to highlight these as a pair. I suspect many don’t know where or when to use these two similar looking products.

PO Pol Star-

Koch Chemie (PO) Pol Star | Textile, Leather and Alcantara Cleaner – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Pol Star | The Rag Company

Pol Star is a dedicated textile cleaner which was primarily designed for fabric, carpet and leather. It can also be used on Alcantara and suede materials. Overall, I’ve found Pol Star to be an excellent general interior cleaner as well, meaning it could be a one-stop-shop interior solution.



What I like about Pol Star is the pH neutral formula, so it’s safe to use across multiple interior surfaces compared to an alkaline all-purpose cleaner. It’s also highly dilutable, meaning that 1-litre bottle will last you for years! Koch Chemie recommend dilutions between 5:1 for heavy cleaning, right out to 20:1 for light duties. I tend to have it mixed pretty strong at 6:1.

I originally bought this for its carpet and fabric cleaning abilities as I didn’t have such a product in my arsenal. I’ve since found it to be an exceptional leather cleaner, especially dealing with un-maintained vehicles that require the use of a lot of product, Pol Star’s economy makes a lot of sense in that regard. Teamed with the VLB brush or a medium leather brush, its an extremely capable leather cleaner.











Another aspect I love about Pol Star is how it will lather up under agitation when using a brush or scrub pad. This aspect helps when it comes time to wipe off the product/dirt emulsion. You can also put Pol Star in a small finger pump foamer, which can be useful when dealing with Alcantara or suede as it prevents oversaturation of the material.



Something to remember when cleaning fabrics is that the removal of the cleaning solution is as important as the cleaning solution itself. If you fail to remove this chemical/dirt emulsion, well the dirt doesn’t actually go anywhere, rather you’ve just moved it around. Usually, you follow with a clean, damp towel to lift this emulsion into the towel, but extractors, steam or a wet-dry vacuum can also be used.

GS Green Star –

Koch Chemie (GS) Green Star | Universal Cleaner – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Green Star | The Rag Company

Green Star is one of the many all-purpose cleaners in the KCx lineup. With a pH value of 12.5, this product is considerably stronger than the pH neutral Pol Star. While Green Star can be used for interior cleaning, I would suggest restricting it’s use to exterior surfaces due to that alkaline nature. KCx even suggest using it as a workshop floor cleaner as well.



Green star is phosphate and solvent free and will easily break down and lift away dirt, oil and other greasy substances. It also contains corrosion inhibitors, making it safe for a variety of metal materials. Like Pol Star, Green Star is highly concentrated and can be used at the following dilutions -

Minimum dilution: 3:1
Automotive exterior: 5:1 - 30:1
Automotive interior: 10:1 to 20:1
Workshop and industrial floors: 40:1 to 120:1



For me, I don’t use a lot of APC. In fact, I probably use it more to clean my cleaning tools than I do cleaning cars. Thing is, when I do use APC, I want it to pack a punch. For that reason, I have Green Star mixed at 6:1 and use it for engine bay cleaning, removal of tyre dressings from my brushes and general surface cleaning. What I love most about Green Star is how it lathers up under agitation, which is both a practical and phycological thing, to me, it just makes it look and feel like you are achieving something.



I know many use it for interior cleaning. I prefer not to use it on interiors as alkaline products like this can be too harsh on sensitive materials, and frankly, pH neutral interior cleaners do everything I need without posing that risk.

For professionals, an all-purpose-cleaner like Green Star would be a staple of their routine. Why? Because they can buy one product, then mix it up at a couple of dilution rates to serve multiple roles, thus negating the need to stock different products. This could include the following -

- Pre-treating dirty lower panels
- Tyre cleaning
- Wheel Cleaning
- Bug removal
- Interior cleaning
- Engine bay cleaning
- Wheel arch cleaning
- Added to a pH neutral soap to create a decon/strip soap
- General workshop/floor cleaning



Final Thoughts -

Hopefully that explains the difference between these two. While you can interchange these products, I think there are benefits to having both. For example, I would never clean leather with Green Star, but then I would never use Pol Star to clean tyres. Both are non-scented, meaning they are purely designed to get the job done without fuss or fanfare.

 

[D.F.B]

Thanks DFB. Great info as always.
You should start selling products now you have a little extra time on your hands. Work in with OG.

Easy to read and understand.

Thanks again now more money to spend.

Thanks for the kind words, glad someone can easily read and understand my posts.................................

I recently started contributing to a lawn mower forum that I've been a member of for a while but never posted. I started posting when I bought the 1950's Victa last month, thinking it would be a great way to learn about these mowers I knew little about.

So, I did my usual thing, using photo's as much as words to show what I'm doing and tell the story. Rather than a wall of words, the photos and video add interest and keep the reader engaged. Not to beat my own drum, but I think I'm rather good it at doing this now.

This forum doesn't get huge traffic, like most forums these days. And posts like mine with images are few and far between. Put it this way, I put a lot of effort into what I do because I enjoy it and because I think others might as well.

Today I got a PM from one of the admins, insisting I don't post full size images via a hosting site. Instead, they want them as small attachments. Why.........................

"The reason for this is that it takes a lot of scrolling to get to the description."

Wow, who would have thought scrolling was such a chore.

I don't know about others, but I find attachment images that you have to click on to enlarge to be annoying and ruin the flow of the post. The view counts on these posts and threads are significant, but not one person has bothered to click "like" to at least give me some feedback as to if what I'm doing is being well received. And the engagement with the fellow members has been lacking, which is disappointing as I was hoping to learn from these people.

I have to say, I'm pretty ****.d off with that attitude. Over the last month, I've posted several large threads, probably generating more content that site has seen in the last year. Frankly, I don't know why I bothered.

 

[ajohno]

Well all I can say it’s their loss. I like pictures so don’t stop.

 

[littlebean]

that's crazy, all I can add is please keep doing it your way on here

 

[goldtang]

The other site is not worth, at least hear you will have people reading if nothing else
may be start a new post on lawnmowers small motors etc

 

[D.F.B]

The other site is not worth, at least hear you will have people reading if nothing else
may be start a new post on lawnmowers small motors etc

I thought joining such a forum would mean I'd be in the company of other crackpots who get excited about lawn mowers and small engines. I mean, I know that it's a very niche subject, so it's not going to interest everyone on this or other forums. I'm actually stunned that posting on a dedicated forum and the only feedback I got was that I didn't post pictures in the "preferred way". Never mind the thousands and thousands of words I typed, taking photos and editing them...................it's not the work of a moment, in fact it will often take me hours to construct posts.

 

[goldtang]

I will admit small motors are not my thing , working on heavy gear may have something to do with it
but I love vintage gear small and big so keep posting this is the only forum I participated in,
the only time I register on any other forum is if I can’t read something and never facebook etc

 

[Dixie_Flatline]

I thought joining such a forum would mean I'd be in the company of other crackpots who get excited about lawn mowers and small engines. I mean, I know that it's a very niche subject, so it's not going to interest everyone on this or other forums. I'm actually stunned that posting on a dedicated forum and the only feedback I got was that I didn't post pictures in the "preferred way". Never mind the thousands and thousands of words I typed, taking photos and editing them...................it's not the work of a moment, in fact it will often take me hours to construct posts.

Sounds like the curmudgeon site admin uses an ancient iPad mini, and if it doesn't fit their screen then you are doing it wrong!

 

[Mark_17]

Keep posting pics as you have, they make posts more engaging.

IDK if you've used Koch Chemie Gummifix but I highly recommend it. My wife can't seem to get in my truck when my weather tech mats are treated with something like VRT. Its too slick for her.....

Gummifix isn't slick and smells of rubbing alcohol when you use it and evaporates just as quickly, leaving only a light coating that isn't slick but still provides protection.

 

[Cdubu52]

Thats crazy. It really bothersome to read a post and then have to click the attachment, and the post goes to the background. Way too much selecting the image and then going back to the description. How is anyone annoyed by the extra scrolling. Its sure better than clicking out of the entire post.

 

[D.F.B]

Thats crazy. It really bothersome to read a post and then have to click the attachment, and the post goes to the background. Way too much selecting the image and then going back to the description. How is anyone annoyed by the extra scrolling. Its sure better than clicking out of the entire post.

That was my thinking as well. Clicking on photo links after you've read the post or scrolling up and down to click on links just ruins the flow. I'm baffled at the thinking going here. I'd understand being pulled up for posting links to competitor companies or being deliberatively argumentative as seems to be accepted norm these days. Thing is, most of the posts are from people asking questions that never come back to post the outcome. At least I was providing something different.

In the end, I replied to the PM politely..................

"My apologies. I was just doing what I normally do on other forums, as in using photos as much as the words to tell the story."

And of course, there was no reply to that, so there will be no further contributions.

 

[D.F.B]

Keep posting pics as you have, they make posts more engaging.

IDK if you've used Koch Chemie Gummifix but I highly recommend it. My wife can't seem to get in my truck when my weather tech mats are treated with something like VRT. Its too slick for her.....

Gummifix isn't slick and smells of rubbing alcohol when you use it and evaporates just as quickly, leaving only a light coating that isn't slick but still provides protection.

******, I forgot to include that in the group shot. And yes, its a great option for those who find a typical dressing too slippery.

 

[D.F.B]

Mustang's turn today.

For the wash today, I wanted to try out the Carpro Dab Dab Wash pad. After hearing so many good things about these pads, I wanted to find out for myself.

CARPRO DabDab Wash Mitt – Waxit Car Care



These Carpro wash pads have been on the market for a couple of years now, but I never bothered as I already have a decent collection of wash media from The Rag Company and Microfiber Madness. Carpro designed the Dab Dab to have a firmer inner core to better follow the contours of the vehicle and maximize contact area. Compared to Carpro single-sided wash mitts, the Dab Dab's double-sided design offers more versatility and will carry more wash solution from the bucket to the vehicle surface.





Carpro have also included a suede wrist strap, which felt a little awkward at first, but quickly proved to be a handy inclusion and will help eliminate the possibility of dropping your expensive wash pad on the ground.







On this occasion, the Dab Dab was teamed with the brilliant Koch Chemie GSF. This proved to be a lovely combo, ultra smooth and slick across the surface of the vehicle. If I was to be hyper critical, I'd say they could probably make the Dab Dab a little larger. I'd say they went with the size to limit the weight when fully saturated, especially with the denser inner foam. That was actually a complaint of the earlier extra-large TRC 10X wash pads.

After washing the Mustang got the usual treatment, with Amplify being used on the paint, door jambs, wheels and engine bay.

 

[D.F.B]

Koch Chemie GUF Gummifix

I love super-specific products like this! Gummifix was designed to provide protection and enhancement to plastic surfaces that are prone to becoming slippery. Where would this be necessary? The most obvious would be rubber all-weather floor mats and cargo trays, or even SUV/Ute side steps with a plastic or rubberised footing. When these area’s are treated with a typical rubber and plastic dressing, this can make these surfaces a slip hazard.

Koch Chemie (GUF) Gummifix | Interior Plastic Care 1L – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Gummifix | The Rag Company



Gummifix is not unlike isopropanol alcohol in how it smells and acts. The beauty of the product is how it flashes away to provide a subtle enhancement without creating slickness. I will say though, if you want a more noticeable before and after, then this probably isn’t the product for you. In which case, I’ve found P&S Swift to provide more enhancement while remaining slip free. Having said that, I’ve found all rubber mats to respond differently, so use these suggestions as a guide not gospel.

How To Use -

The first thing you need to do before applying Gummifix is to thoroughly clean the surface. Sticking with the Koch Chemie theme, this would be a great use for Green Star. Personally, I much prefer to use Mckee’s Floor & Cargo Mat Cleaner. I don’t know why, but after using a variety of APC’s and even tyre cleaners, this McKee’s product is the best I’ve found for the job.

1. Remove the mats from the vehicle, shake off the debris, then rinse.

2. Apply your cleaner generously, then scrub with a firm brush. I’ve found the medium stiffness Detail Factory tyre brush to be a perfect pairing here.





3. Thoroughly rinse, then dry. You can use your blower here, but I just put the mat in the sun while I clean the rest of the vehicle, but the time you are ready to put the mats back in the car, they are usually dry by that stage.

4. Working with a clean and dry mat, apply Gummifix. You can spray it directly and work in with a towel, or add to an applicator and spread across the surface. I’ve found you need to be generous with the product to get consistent coverage, especially if you have a surface like these Maxtrac items pictured here.

5. Once applied, allow to dry. Gummifix flashes away and self levels, but you can go back with a towel to remove any high spots if you wish.





Usage Notes –

- When it comes to cleaning rubber mats, I think the combination of the McKee's with the specific bristles of the Detail Factory brush make the difference here.

- I tend to prefer spraying directly onto the mat and working in with a towel, this seems to provide superior coverage. However, you can also use a foam or microfiber applicator, or even a brush.

- Koch Chemie ship this product with a dispensing bottle insert, which would suit the brush or applicator application method. You can also remove the stopper to fit a spray head, but you need to order that separately or use one you already have.

- Speaking of spray heads, this product kills them so choose wisely. I ruined a nice Kwazar spray head, which also turned the soft rubber pickup tube rock hard. It even killed the Koch Chemie spray head. Therefore, I’d use a cheap spray head knowing you will need to replace it often, and/or empty the sprayer back into the bottle and run some water through to purge the lines.

- Know that this product has a strong IPA aroma, so I’d apply in a well-ventilated area. If you can, let the product fully dry before re-installing the mats.

- Know that the finished result is an “as new” appearance. If you are looking for something more prominent, then consider using Capro Perl at 6:1 (heavily diluted) or P&S Swift, both remaining slip-free.

- You can also use Gummifix for refreshing the appearance of your pedals.

Final Thoughts -

Gummifix is not a product everyone will need. However, if you have rubber floor mats, I think its well worth having both this and the McKee's cleaner on hand.

 

[D.F.B]

The plan for today was to try a few of the new Koch Chemie products outside of my normal washing routine. Those products being Active Foam, Ceramic Effect Shampoo and Quick & Shine. The test subject being the mildly dirty Wildtrak.

To start, I mixed up some Active Foam. In the past, Active Foam was only available in 10-litre containers, which for someone like me was way overboard, especially at the previous asking price. With AF now available in a consumer friendly 1-litre bottle, I've finally got a chance to try out this soap. And what an amazing soap it is!

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/koch-chemie/products/koch-chemie-active-foam-af

AF is a mild-alkaline at a pH of 9.5, meaning it has pre-cleaning ability missing from GSF, but not to the same extent as Super Foam at pH 12.
Active Foam produces lovely thick foam, backed by a long dwell time. It also rinses freely, taking dirt and bugs with it. But the scent, what a scent! I've heard about AF's sandalwood scent being delightful, but that doesn't do it justice. A quick whiff of the bottle is one thing, but once you foam it, the scent takes on a different dimension.................it's transcendent. I know scent doesn't actually affect the cleaning ability of the product, but it certainly improves the user experience. And if you enjoy using a product, you are going to use it more.

On this occasion, I used Active Foam as a wheel and tyre cleaner, then as a pre-cleaner before the contact wash. On both counts, AF is superbly capable.





Following Active Foam, I used CES Ceramic Effect Shampoo as a bucket wash. I typically don't use this type of soap, as in a soap with protection. I often find them a jack of all trades, master of none. Most of them refuse to foam and have a strange stickiness under the wash media. They also lack ultimate cleaning ability. As such, you have to pick your mark with these soaps.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/koch-chemie/products/koch-chemie-ceramic-effect-shampoo

On this occasion, the vehicle is in between coatings, so using a soap like this helps buy me some time. With the surface mostly clean after using Active Foam, CES wasn't ploughing through dirt and grime. This is another pleasantly scented product from KCx, not to the same level as Active Foam, but still a delight. Under the wash pad, CES glides nicely over the surface, then rinses away freely to reveal some decent hydrophobics and lovely slickness. And in that regard, I'd say CES has an edge over some of the other soaps of this type I've sampled.



Following the wash, I then tried Quick & Shine. I've tried this product in the blue bottle range and have always loved how simple it is to use as a drying aid. QS couldn't be simpler to apply, just spray and wipe, quite often you don't even need a secondary towel as it flashes away to a streak free finish. To be clear, this isn't going to provide long term protection, just lubrication while drying and a boost in gloss and slickness..................which is probably all we ever need on well-maintained vehicles.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/koch-chemie/products/koch-chemie-quick-shine-universal-quick-detailer

With the use of CES and QS, they certainly gave the test subject a lovely boost in gloss and slickness.

 

[D.F.B]

Latest parts haul...................



On the docket for today, I wanted to replace the fuel taps fitted on the Rover and Mulchmaster. I never use the fuel taps on these machines, so I felt like a fuel filter would be a better use of that space. I ended up replacing the fuel hose at the same time, it was pretty hard and locked onto those fuel taps.

5x Fuel Filter suitable for Briggs & Stratton Motors 298090 fits 1/4" Fuel Line

5x Fuel Filter suitable for Briggs & Stratton Motors 298090 fits 1/4" Fuel Line - Suits Briggs & Stratton - Non Genuine

www.greenacresmowers.com.au

Ride on Mowers Fuel Line suits Briggs & Stratton 1 meter 1/4" 395051 299146

Ride on Mowers Fuel Line suits Briggs & Stratton 1 meter 1/4" 395051 299146 - Suits Briggs & Stratton - Non Genuine

www.greenacresmowers.com.au

I'll swap out the tap on the Victa C21 at some point as well.

 

[D.F.B]

Koch Chemie All-round Surface Cleaner ASC

As the name suggests, ASC was designed to be used across multiple interior and exterior surfaces. Compared to the surfactant heavy cleaners such as Pol Star or Green Star, ASC is much milder and will deliver a streak-free finish.

Koch Chemie (ASC) Allround Surface Cleaner | Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Allround Surface Cleaner | The Rag Company



Looking at the SDS, ASC has an alcohol formula, which helps deliver a clean and clear finish where others would leave behind a streaky residue. ASC would be similar to other interior detailers such as Carpro InnerQD, Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer and Gyeon Interior Detailer. As such, don't expect high levels of cleaning ability, these products are for maintaining interiors. And unlike those, ASC doesn't contain anti-static or UV inhibitors.

The main drawcard though is the streak-free results. I've found ASC great on glossy trims such as piano black, glossy woodgrain, painted trim accents and even infotainment screens. ASC is ideally suited here as it will easily lift dust and fingerprints into your towel, before flashing away to a streak free finish. Koch Chemie also recommend using ASC when cleaning around switches and buttons as it will flash-dry and won't cause damage to electrical connections if you were a little heavy handed. They also say you can use it on glass and mirrors, and its safe for use on leather and Alcantara. All accompanied by that classic KCx scent.



How To Use -

ASC is a ready to use product, be that in the small 500ml bottle or the large 10-litre container. Application is a simple spray and wipe procedure, the ability to flash away means you don't have to be precise with it. Apart from that, there isn't much else to say, other than the following tips......................

- You can spray direct or into a towel. I like to load up a towel with multiple sprays, then wipe over the areas needing attention. This way you better control where it goes.

- Know the limitations of ASC. If your interior is filthy dirty, then ASC won't do a lot for you. In which case, you would be using Pol Star or similar.

- If you have needed more serious cleaning with something like Pol Star, ASC can still be beneficial in finishing off those streak-prone glossy surfaces or screens.

- ASC is a great household/office cleaner as well, in particular cleaning/dusting computer and TV screens, stainless steel and glossy benchtops ect.



Final Thoughts -

I think a lot of people get hung up on needing an interior cleaner, when in fact most only need something like ASC to maintain interiors. I shudder when I read of people wiping down their interior with APC on a weekly basis to remove a fine layer of dust. In those situations, a product like ASC is all you need.

 

[customh]

So is the @D.F.B analysis that Asc is what OG Matty says BH Trace-Less is?

 

[D.F.B]

So is the @D.F.B analysis that Asc is what OG Matty says BH Trace-Less is?

Would you believe I struggle with Trace-less?

 

[customh]

Would you believe I struggle with Trace-less?

That’s what I was referring to- do you think Asc does for you what Matt says Trace-less does for him? Seems like it to me!

Good to hear there’s another option for those that don’t see the magic of Trace-less… (but hey- I’d market the **** out of the stuff that I have the market cornered on too)

 

[kitdoctor]

@D.F.B keep up the detailing posts. I can appreciate the massive effort that goes into them.

I'm really enjoying them and once we're settled in I'll be making some product purchases based upon your recommendations.

Full size photos are the only way to go.

 

[D.F.B]

Koch Chemie Motorplast MP

This is another one of those in-demand products from Koch Chemie that was very hard to get for a while there, and when it returned, it commanded a $30 price premium. Since then, the price softened but was still too expensive for what it was. Now though, at $25.95, Motorplast is back in the game.

Koch Chemie (MP) Motorplast | Engine Bay Conserver – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Motorplast | The Rag Company



What Is Motorplast?

Motorplast is what Koch Chemie call an "engine bay conserver"..................in other words, a water-based dressing for your engine bay that will deliver an as-new look. It can be used on a dry surface, however it has the ability to displace water on wet surfaces. In that regard, its perfect to use after cleaning your engine bay, more on that shortly.

Motorplast is heat resistant up to 250 degrees C, the elastic-like film able to breath with temperature fluctuations. Unlike some dressings, once dry Motorplast will prevent dust attraction and adhesion. While primarily beneficial to plastic and rubber surfaces, it will also protect metal from corrosion and other environmental factors. The product also has a distinctive scent that seems to be a crowd pleaser.



How To Use -

You can apply Motorplast on wet or dry surfaces, but its quicker and easier to apply directly after cleaning and while the engine bay is still wet. For the full process, check out the following thread -

(1) Engine Bay Cleaning and Detailing | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

1. Start by cleaning, or at the very least, rinse the engine bay.



2. Once clean and while still wet, spray Motorplast generously across the entire engine bay. Don't worry about getting it on painted/metal surfaces, it won't harm these areas or look greasy.



3. Optional, grab your blower or compressed air to distribute excess water and dressing. I've found this super helpful in getting dressing into the various ribbed and intricate areas without having to mess about with brushes and towels.



4. Close the hood, job done.



Usage Notes -

- The best part of Motorplast is how it self-levels when applied to a wet surface. This means you don't have to be super specific with its application, just spray generously and close the hood.

- When applying, you are aiming for generous coverage.





- You may need to return with a towel a few hours later to level off any high spots.

- Motorplast will protect and enhance rubber, vinyl and plastic surfaces including engine covers, hoses, fuse boxes, intakes, scuttle panels ect.

- The best time to clean and dress an engine bay is BEFORE washing the rest of the vehicle. You WILL get APC or soap on the surrounding outer paintwork and glass, likewise the Motorplast. You don't want either on you paint AFTER cleaning the exterior.

- I've found Motorplast to be on the glossier side, which may or may not be to your taste. I suppose it can be diluted, but compared to alternatives, the beauty of Motorplast is the RTU format.

- Suitable alternatives to Motorplast would be Capro Perl, Meguiar's Hyper Dressing and P&S Dynamic or Natural Finish. However, I've found Perl doesn't self-level as well as Motorplast or Hyper Dressing.

- Probably not an obvious one, but I also use it on my lawn mowers.....................





Final Thoughts -

When Motorplast was priced beyond $50 a few years ago, I'd say there were plenty of cheaper alternatives on the market that would do the same job for much less. However, now that its a shade over $25, Motorplast is a worthy contender. I personally prefer Hyper Dressing, mainly for its ability to provide a more subtle finished look. But if you like that richer look, Motorplast is your product.

 

[D.F.B]

Last week, my cleaner asked me about where in the area to buy a ride-on mower. In a former life, she was an arborist and knows the ins and outs of garden power equipment and therefore had done research on what she wanted.

My first response was where NOT to buy a mower from..............the business that ripped me off twice, treated me like a fool and was basically the catalyst for me doing my own repairs and buying parts online. Because of the machine she had shortlisted, it was actually that shop she had intended on visiting, but my advice put an end to that.

This week I got told a story that I'm not surprised by but certainly makes me angry. Out of interest, she went in to see if my assessment of this business, and the owner in particular, was true. Upon arrival, she explained what she was looking for and was promptly told by the owner that he was "sick of you women coming in here trying to act like you know something about mowers". She replied along the lines of "that's fine", then promptly walked out.

I'm appalled that someone would say such a thing to customer, male or female. I know there were times when I wanted to cut loose on a customer for being rude or unrealistically demanding, but at the end of the day, I knew that wouldn't lead to a favorable outcome for the business I represented. In fact, sometimes those very specific customers became VERY good customers as the relationship developed. One in particular would come in nearly every Friday, often I felt just to say hello. You see, there is a difference between an unrealistically demanding customer, and one that is informed and knowledgeable enough to know exactly what they want. I know this because I am that type of customer myself.

I can't say I'm surprised by this story because he treated me like a complete fool as well. I know first hand how angry he made me feel, actually, he made me look like a fool in front of other customers and his staff. This is the same bullsh.t that inflicts automotive related businesses, treating females like idiots, something you'd hope was a thing of the past but still very much happens.

In this case, this ***** lost a sale worth several thousands of dollars from his actions. Add that up over countless other people, it's a wonder he is still in business.

 

[D.F.B]

Koch Chemie Top Star TS

Up until a few years ago, I would apply interior dressings on a regular basis. I'm not sure how I discovered it, but my favorite became 303 Protectant for its barely-there appearance. For some reason, I also found it easier to work with compared to the alternatives, it spreading easier and didn't leave streaks.

However, once I started using interior detailers instead, which also contain UV inhibitors, I fell out of the habit of applying specific interior dressings. Products like Carpro InnerQD, P&S Swift and ADS Pilot do two jobs in one, removing dust and fingerprints (cleaning) and leaving something behind (protection). So why I am I highlighting a dedicated interior dressing?

Because they still have a place. While the interior detailers contain UV protection and dressing potential, its only very mild. On the UV front, on a garage queen parked under cover for most of its life, the need for a heavier dressing isn't always needed. However, if you have a daily drive parked outdoors for most or all of its life, having something more substantial on the interior plastics is probably a good idea..............especially in summer.

And so, we arrive at Koch Chemie Top Star.

Koch Chemie (TS) Top Star | Interior Plastics Care – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Top Star | The Rag Company



What is Top Star?

Koch Chemie Top Star is a product that can be used to dress and protect a range of interior surfaces. Plastic, vinyl and rubber surfaces will all benefit from regular applications of Top Star, think rubber seals, dashboards, door trims, center consoles, steering wheels and even artificial leather.

Koch Chemie suggest Top Star can be used as a combined cleaner and protectant, which would be fine on a lightly dusty interior, but you really should clean separately before application.

Once treated, Top Star leaves behind UV inhibitors and anti-static properties. I'd describe the finish to be a natural to satin sheen appearance, which provides a more noticeable result than 303. The scent is consistent with other KCx interior products, a subtle fresh fragrance.



How To Use -

Top Star is a very runny liquid, as such you have options when it comes to application. The product can be sprayed or via the supplied dispenser cap. For spraying, you will need to remove that dispenser cap from the neck of the bottle. Top Star can be applied using a folded towel or microfiber brick.

1. Ensure you are working with a clean, dry surface. Use something like the previously mentioned ASC or Pol Star for example.

2. Lightly shake the bottle before opening.

3. Prime your towel or applicator with Top Star by spraying or dispensing.

4. Work the product over the areas to be treated. I've found Top Star offers excellent coverage, so only small additional amounts will be needed as you work around the interior.

5. Top Star will generally evaporate and self-level, but you can help things along with a separate dry towel if you like. On glossier surfaces, you may need to wipe over these areas to remove streaks.



Application Notes -

Top Star is very forgiving to use, so there isn't much to highlight here.

- If you intend on spraying Top Star, KCx don't supply it with a spray head. You can buy these separately, either from KCx or elsewhere. The KCx ones are nothing special, just a chemical resistant Canyon. Just make sure the tube is long enough for the tall KCx bottles.

Koch-Chemie - Star Spray Head | The Rag Company
Koch Chemie - 1L Spray Head & Bottle – Waxit Car Care

- I prefer to apply Top Star with a microfiber applicator brick as it offers more control. Foam applicators can also be used, but a short pile microfiber applicator will spread the product more evenly and help prevent streaking. I like the TRC Pearl applicators and the Carpro/Gyeon finger mitts.

Microfiber Pearl Weave Applicator Sponge | The Rag Company
CQUARTZ Microfiber Applicator (5 pack)

The Rag Company Pearl Applicator Sponge – The Detail Store
CARPRO Microfiber Applicator - 5 Pack – Waxit Car Care

- I also tend to use the supplied dispenser cap.

- Koch Chemie don't provide a longevity for Top Star other than "long lasting". I'd say expect 2 - 3 months, just depends how much sunlight the vehicle is subjected to.

- Treated surfaces tend to take on some slickness, so probably don't apply to the steering wheel rim, gear shifter, floor mats and pedals.



Final Thoughts -

Top Star makes most sense for daily drivers exposed to a lot of summer sunlight. 303 is still a benchmark in this field if you want a completely OE-look, while Top Star will give some additional enhancement.

 

[kitdoctor]

@D.F.B I find the wheel arch flares on my Hilux accumulate a lot of grit and plant debris when driving in wet weather.

More specifically, I'm referring to the underside edge of each flare that is in the direct path of debris being flung off the tyre. After driving in the wet, the surface feels like sandpaper and once it dries it's really on there. I worry about transfer of said grit when washing the Hilux.

I get this stuff off by running a finger nail across the surface like a gentle scraper but this takes ages.

Do you have any pro tips?