Thanks for the tip on the boat lineup! I am about to pull my boat out for the season in the next month or so and get it cleaned and waxed before getting ready for spring playtime. Water spots from our lake are my biggest issue and trying to keep them off the finish drives me crazy. I have lived with them long enough that this year I want to try aomething different and I am considering a ceramic coat to help keep it cleaner longer.
Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage
- Thread starter D.F.B
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
I've never got into marine, but I'd also check out the Gtechniq and Gyeon marine lines as well.
I've been using Diamond Edge trimmer line since 2017. Prior to that, I had been just grabbing anything on the shelf at Bunning's or the mower shop. Some were ok, some were terrible. The main thing I noticed when I switched to Diamond Edge was how hard and brittle those other lines were. The Diamond Edge offered a little more flexibility to it, meaning it doesn't just fracture and chip away, and in turn I was going through less line. Of course, Bunning's wouldn't want that, they need you to keep buying more and more and more.
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/search-results?q=diamond edge
I've had no reason to change from Diamond Edge, but I've decided to give Stihl's latest CF3 Carbon Pro line a try. This stuff is supposed to be the first carbon fiber trimmer line to hit the market, although the well-seasoned man behind the desk at the Stihl dealer had no idea of that. Price wise, its actually cheaper than the Diamond Edge.
https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/...Eh7658WeZQQW0WCeLAE495CzNQCykN9S-Z-sjRC0L2-d3
The CF3 Carbon Pro line is made using a three-layer extrusion technique and has a pronounced twist to it, which the Diamond Edge lacks. This construction is supposed to offer superior durability, with Stihl claiming it can last three times longer than conventional nylon line. I would think that claim is in reference to the basic round Stihl trimmer line, so it will be interesting to see how it compares to the similar cross-section Diamond Edge. Both have similar flexibility, although the Stihl line has a much smoother/slicker jacket.
I used the CF3 on a job this morning. Initial impressions suggest that this line is a quieter spinning, durability remains to be seen.
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/search-results?q=diamond edge
I've had no reason to change from Diamond Edge, but I've decided to give Stihl's latest CF3 Carbon Pro line a try. This stuff is supposed to be the first carbon fiber trimmer line to hit the market, although the well-seasoned man behind the desk at the Stihl dealer had no idea of that. Price wise, its actually cheaper than the Diamond Edge.
https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/...Eh7658WeZQQW0WCeLAE495CzNQCykN9S-Z-sjRC0L2-d3
The CF3 Carbon Pro line is made using a three-layer extrusion technique and has a pronounced twist to it, which the Diamond Edge lacks. This construction is supposed to offer superior durability, with Stihl claiming it can last three times longer than conventional nylon line. I would think that claim is in reference to the basic round Stihl trimmer line, so it will be interesting to see how it compares to the similar cross-section Diamond Edge. Both have similar flexibility, although the Stihl line has a much smoother/slicker jacket.
I used the CF3 on a job this morning. Initial impressions suggest that this line is a quieter spinning, durability remains to be seen.
Ordered a compression tester from Amazon, my thinking was the number of times I'd use it, over investing seemed pointless. Opened the box, hooked it up and.................nothing. Checked the connection, checked against another engine................nothing. Back it goes!
Meanwhile, what do I buy?
Meanwhile, what do I buy?
Dixie_Flatline
Well-known member
I'd be interested to know how that trimmer line stacks up against the competition when it comes to working alongside paved surfaces. I have some long sections of concrete alongside the driveway, sidewalk, and down at the street which all seem to really consume the line. I've got a bit longer before mowing season is upon us, but I am trying to think ahead to what I need to get done so I am not behind the curve like last year!
98% of the trimming I do is along concrete paving and guttering, so I go through line pretty fast. I would still lean towards Diamond Edge, although this Stihl stuff is nice in that its quieter, but I feel its wears a little quicker.
My latest project.........................
At the end of 2001 for my 15th birthday, I asked for and was given a brand-new Victa Corvette. A year later, this time it was a Ryobi Weed Wasp line trimmer. Shortly after, my father helped me buy a leaf blower, which I paid off by mowing and cleaning up the carpark at his office. This trio of tools helped me start my business, initially as a Saturday morning job that morphed into something much bigger.
Of those three tools, the Ryobi is long gone, they were cheap and disposable tools, mine started to make an alarming buzz from the engine and was replaced with a Stihl FS 45. The mower and blower however are still with me. The little red Corvette has seen some love recently, now its time for the blower to get a new lease on life. This BG 55 has done a power of work. I eventually retired it when I bought an updated BG 86, it's sat in the shed for 15 years or so.
Back in the early 2000's, the Stihl BG 55, BG 65 and BG 85 were all-new models, replacing the old BG 75 "Air Broom". I still have the period brochure, the BG 55 list price was $345, or in my case, $395 with the vacuum attachment. Today, a BG 56 will set you back $379, the BG 86 $479 and the BG 86C-E (easy start) is $499. And when I say all new, I mean from the ground up new. Stihl went from a 25.4cc engine to an all-new 27.2cc engine, which went on to power a large range of line trimmers and hedge trimmers. Stihl also reversed the fan orientation, which was handy for right-handed users as it prevented clothing from blocking the air supply to the fan. The new models also looked much better, with more classic Stihl orange.
At some stage, Stihl updated the blower line to offer the BG 56, BG 66, BG 86 and BG 86C-E. These models came with a new body design, which was to incorporate anti-vibration handles for the BG 86 / BG 86C-E. However, Stihl continue to make the older model for the US market, which is now called the BG 50 and is offered as a low-cost entry level option.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/b...s/bg50/?aqid=e6d4aa2a3e14c8654136335a72eef9d3
The earlier BG 55/65/85 models were the better machine, the later 56/66/86 models don't rev as hard. I've also found the newer models really dislike hot and humid conditions, which I suspect is from the tank vents not venting properly in an attempt to curb evap emission standards. After trying the equivalent Husqvarna petrol blower, these Stihl's are still the best blower on the market. In fact, I sold the Husqvarna with very little hours on it.
So, my Stihl BG 55.........................
After throwing some fresh fuel in the tank and giving the rope a few hundred pulls, all I got was a very brief fire. Of course, the purge bulb crumbled the first time I pressed it. And no doubt the carburetor diaphragms are toast. I considered rebuilding the carb, but I did what most people do these days and just bought an aftermarket carburetor, which comes with new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, gaskets and spark plug. Now, you hear good and bad things about these aftermarket carbs, so I guess I'm making a gamble here. But, I didn't really want to invest too much into it considering the age and amount of work the machine has done. In addition to that, the throttle cable (newer models have a throttle rod) needs freeing up, replacements are hard to find. And I'm going to either drill out the exhaust outlet or replace it for the larger BG 85/86 version to boost engine performance.
So far, all I have done is given the unit a clean using Bilt Hamber Surfex, the removed the recoil and throttle housings to get a better view of the carb. I'm now waiting for the parts to arrive.
At the end of 2001 for my 15th birthday, I asked for and was given a brand-new Victa Corvette. A year later, this time it was a Ryobi Weed Wasp line trimmer. Shortly after, my father helped me buy a leaf blower, which I paid off by mowing and cleaning up the carpark at his office. This trio of tools helped me start my business, initially as a Saturday morning job that morphed into something much bigger.
Of those three tools, the Ryobi is long gone, they were cheap and disposable tools, mine started to make an alarming buzz from the engine and was replaced with a Stihl FS 45. The mower and blower however are still with me. The little red Corvette has seen some love recently, now its time for the blower to get a new lease on life. This BG 55 has done a power of work. I eventually retired it when I bought an updated BG 86, it's sat in the shed for 15 years or so.
Back in the early 2000's, the Stihl BG 55, BG 65 and BG 85 were all-new models, replacing the old BG 75 "Air Broom". I still have the period brochure, the BG 55 list price was $345, or in my case, $395 with the vacuum attachment. Today, a BG 56 will set you back $379, the BG 86 $479 and the BG 86C-E (easy start) is $499. And when I say all new, I mean from the ground up new. Stihl went from a 25.4cc engine to an all-new 27.2cc engine, which went on to power a large range of line trimmers and hedge trimmers. Stihl also reversed the fan orientation, which was handy for right-handed users as it prevented clothing from blocking the air supply to the fan. The new models also looked much better, with more classic Stihl orange.
At some stage, Stihl updated the blower line to offer the BG 56, BG 66, BG 86 and BG 86C-E. These models came with a new body design, which was to incorporate anti-vibration handles for the BG 86 / BG 86C-E. However, Stihl continue to make the older model for the US market, which is now called the BG 50 and is offered as a low-cost entry level option.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/b...s/bg50/?aqid=e6d4aa2a3e14c8654136335a72eef9d3
The earlier BG 55/65/85 models were the better machine, the later 56/66/86 models don't rev as hard. I've also found the newer models really dislike hot and humid conditions, which I suspect is from the tank vents not venting properly in an attempt to curb evap emission standards. After trying the equivalent Husqvarna petrol blower, these Stihl's are still the best blower on the market. In fact, I sold the Husqvarna with very little hours on it.
So, my Stihl BG 55.........................
After throwing some fresh fuel in the tank and giving the rope a few hundred pulls, all I got was a very brief fire. Of course, the purge bulb crumbled the first time I pressed it. And no doubt the carburetor diaphragms are toast. I considered rebuilding the carb, but I did what most people do these days and just bought an aftermarket carburetor, which comes with new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, gaskets and spark plug. Now, you hear good and bad things about these aftermarket carbs, so I guess I'm making a gamble here. But, I didn't really want to invest too much into it considering the age and amount of work the machine has done. In addition to that, the throttle cable (newer models have a throttle rod) needs freeing up, replacements are hard to find. And I'm going to either drill out the exhaust outlet or replace it for the larger BG 85/86 version to boost engine performance.
So far, all I have done is given the unit a clean using Bilt Hamber Surfex, the removed the recoil and throttle housings to get a better view of the carb. I'm now waiting for the parts to arrive.
Wash day for the XR8, which was to be rotated back under cover and swapping places with the Mustang.
I'm slowly getting more and more comfortable using AMMO Hydrate, which seems to be playing very well with Wolfgang DGPS.
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC AU
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC
This is a classic case of when using the "wrong" towel can lead to unfavorable results or user experience. In all but one occasion, I have used Hydrate with the twist-loop TRC FTW towels. Now, I say "wrong" in that this towel is "wrong" for me because I have never loved these things, they are just too grabby and tend to bunch up in my hands. And yet, most people love this towel, be it for use as intended (glass), for spray sealant application or as a small drying aid towel. About the only thing I like them for is wiping the giant instrument/infotainment screen with glass cleaner in the Mustang.
Premium Microfiber Towel: The FTW Twisted Loop Drying Towel - Detailing Shed
FTW Twist Loop Microfiber Detailing and Glass Towel | The Rag Company
However, when I have teamed Hydrate with the Platinum Pluffle, my user experience with this product has been exceptional. I soak one towel with water and wring out till just damp, apply one or two "lines" of Hydrate to the towel and work it over a section, then swap to a dry towel to level off any remaining residue. Sadly, TRC have discontinued this towel, although there is still plenty of stock remaining in Australia. In this case, I like the 40 x 40cm size.
Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Wash Towel - Detailing Shed
The Rag Company Platinum Pluffle Premium Drying Microfibre – The Detail Store
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Towel 40cm – Prime Finish Car Care
Some US retailers still have it -
Plush Waffle Weave Waterless Towel 2.0 - Ultra Absorbent Microfiber Towels for Rinseless Wash – Obsessed Garage
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle - Detailer's Domain
If there was one change I'd make to Hydrate, it would be to add a more pleasant scent as it has a very unusual aroma to it. Although Larry has chosen quite subtle, masculine scent profiles across most of the range.
I'm slowly getting more and more comfortable using AMMO Hydrate, which seems to be playing very well with Wolfgang DGPS.
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC AU
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC
This is a classic case of when using the "wrong" towel can lead to unfavorable results or user experience. In all but one occasion, I have used Hydrate with the twist-loop TRC FTW towels. Now, I say "wrong" in that this towel is "wrong" for me because I have never loved these things, they are just too grabby and tend to bunch up in my hands. And yet, most people love this towel, be it for use as intended (glass), for spray sealant application or as a small drying aid towel. About the only thing I like them for is wiping the giant instrument/infotainment screen with glass cleaner in the Mustang.
Premium Microfiber Towel: The FTW Twisted Loop Drying Towel - Detailing Shed
FTW Twist Loop Microfiber Detailing and Glass Towel | The Rag Company
However, when I have teamed Hydrate with the Platinum Pluffle, my user experience with this product has been exceptional. I soak one towel with water and wring out till just damp, apply one or two "lines" of Hydrate to the towel and work it over a section, then swap to a dry towel to level off any remaining residue. Sadly, TRC have discontinued this towel, although there is still plenty of stock remaining in Australia. In this case, I like the 40 x 40cm size.
Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Wash Towel - Detailing Shed
The Rag Company Platinum Pluffle Premium Drying Microfibre – The Detail Store
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle Hybrid Weave Microfiber Towel 40cm – Prime Finish Car Care
Some US retailers still have it -
Plush Waffle Weave Waterless Towel 2.0 - Ultra Absorbent Microfiber Towels for Rinseless Wash – Obsessed Garage
The Rag Company - Platinum Pluffle - Detailer's Domain
If there was one change I'd make to Hydrate, it would be to add a more pleasant scent as it has a very unusual aroma to it. Although Larry has chosen quite subtle, masculine scent profiles across most of the range.
Today, I followed through with a promise I made way back in September last year. My friend and favorite customer has had a ride in the XR8 back when I took delivery in 2014, as well as my previous Mustang in 2017, so it was a mere formality that he would get the same flame-thrower ride in the new Mustang as well.
I wouldn't say that he is a fully committed petrol head, although he once had an BMW E36 328i M-Sport back in the 90's, which he says was the best car he's owned. That 328i was his wife's car when I started working for them in the mid-2000's, I always loved the raspy exhaust note of that car. I think I was probably sadder when they traded it in on a diesel VW Passat wagon.
It's taken us this long to go for that ride in the new Mustang for a reason. When I was admitted to hospital in early November, a day later he had a fall and landed himself in the same hospital with a broken back. While my hospital recovery was somewhat speedy, he naturally needed quite a while to become fully mobile again, let alone drop himself down into a low-slung sports car. Throw in Christmas and the wedding of their daughter, well its taken until now to follow through with my promise.
As I've mentioned before, he is all but blind now and hasn't been able to drive for a number of years. For someone so limited in what he can do now, it was wonderful to share the Mustang experience with him. He may not be able to see it clearly, but he can still hear the sound of the engine and feel how the car responds. The most notable thing for him was how comfortable it rode compared to my old Mustang, and that it felt so planted on the road. And of course, the sound of the engine and how it rips through gears.
At the end of the ride, he told me how perfect the car was for me and fully understood why I bought it. He went on to compare choosing a car like this over going on an expensive overseas holiday. While the holiday can be a very enjoyable experience for some, it's all but a moment in time. However with the Mustang, well I can walk out and experience the car anytime I like. I don't feel the need to see the world, but I do feel the need to experience cars like the Mustang while I still can. We all have different priorities.
I wouldn't say that he is a fully committed petrol head, although he once had an BMW E36 328i M-Sport back in the 90's, which he says was the best car he's owned. That 328i was his wife's car when I started working for them in the mid-2000's, I always loved the raspy exhaust note of that car. I think I was probably sadder when they traded it in on a diesel VW Passat wagon.
It's taken us this long to go for that ride in the new Mustang for a reason. When I was admitted to hospital in early November, a day later he had a fall and landed himself in the same hospital with a broken back. While my hospital recovery was somewhat speedy, he naturally needed quite a while to become fully mobile again, let alone drop himself down into a low-slung sports car. Throw in Christmas and the wedding of their daughter, well its taken until now to follow through with my promise.
As I've mentioned before, he is all but blind now and hasn't been able to drive for a number of years. For someone so limited in what he can do now, it was wonderful to share the Mustang experience with him. He may not be able to see it clearly, but he can still hear the sound of the engine and feel how the car responds. The most notable thing for him was how comfortable it rode compared to my old Mustang, and that it felt so planted on the road. And of course, the sound of the engine and how it rips through gears.
At the end of the ride, he told me how perfect the car was for me and fully understood why I bought it. He went on to compare choosing a car like this over going on an expensive overseas holiday. While the holiday can be a very enjoyable experience for some, it's all but a moment in time. However with the Mustang, well I can walk out and experience the car anytime I like. I don't feel the need to see the world, but I do feel the need to experience cars like the Mustang while I still can. We all have different priorities.
Continued work on the BG 55 today. I started by removing the carburetor, which allowed me to remove and clean the plastic intake manifold.
You don't need to remove the intake to change or service the carb, but the manifold also doubles as a guide for the throttle cable. The problem with this arrangement is as the cable stretches, it has a habit of slipping off the manifold and locking the throttle wide open. Stihl scrapped this arrangement in favor of a throttle rod as they were having a lot of problems with it, this unit has had at least one new cable.
Because of the age of the machine, finding a replacement throttle cable is proving difficult, so I need to make the most of what I have. With proper access, I removed and lubricated the cable, then cleaned the trigger and trigger post to hopefully make it move more smoothly. With the intake block off the engine, I cleaned it and the gasket, then reassembled. From here, I wedged and glued a "retainer" to the intake.....................a plastic bottle top cut in half. The idea is to prevent the cable slipping off the intake, let's see if this works as intended.
Next, I removed the muffler to check for carbon build up. The exhaust port was clear, likewise the entry to the muffler. After a little fit of stabbing, I managed to shake out a fair bit of carbon, some of it coming out in chunks. I then heated the muffler up with a gas torch to burn off what I couldn't scrape away. I then used a wire brush to remove the carbon around the inlet and outlet, followed by a rub down with sandpaper to give the exterior a little facelift.
As for the spark arrestor, it went awol a very long time ago. I remember very early on taking the unit to dealer complaining about a lack of power, this was well before me knowing how these things work. They took it out the back and chopped off the wire screen.................I guess that's one way of dealing with the problem.
While I had the muffler and intake off the machine, I had a good look at the piston and cylinder, surprisingly, both look beautiful. I may have worked this engine hard over a long time, but it always got premium engine oil and had clean filters.
The old Zama carburetor, well I am using this as a learning tool. I removed both metering and pumping sides, and as expected, both diaphragms were stiff and brittle. Otherwise, the internals were clean. Even though I bought a replacement aftermarket carb, I've decided to rebuild the original with a diaphragm kit and new primer bulb. Doing so, I'll learn how to do this, and I can perhaps sell it off at the end or keep for spares.
I will probably also remove the flywheel to inspect the three bolts that sit behind, which can work loose over time and cause the engine to lock up. I've had this happen on multiple BG 86's, the fix is to nip them up with a little thread locker.
I'm now just waiting for parts to arrive.
You don't need to remove the intake to change or service the carb, but the manifold also doubles as a guide for the throttle cable. The problem with this arrangement is as the cable stretches, it has a habit of slipping off the manifold and locking the throttle wide open. Stihl scrapped this arrangement in favor of a throttle rod as they were having a lot of problems with it, this unit has had at least one new cable.
Because of the age of the machine, finding a replacement throttle cable is proving difficult, so I need to make the most of what I have. With proper access, I removed and lubricated the cable, then cleaned the trigger and trigger post to hopefully make it move more smoothly. With the intake block off the engine, I cleaned it and the gasket, then reassembled. From here, I wedged and glued a "retainer" to the intake.....................a plastic bottle top cut in half. The idea is to prevent the cable slipping off the intake, let's see if this works as intended.
Next, I removed the muffler to check for carbon build up. The exhaust port was clear, likewise the entry to the muffler. After a little fit of stabbing, I managed to shake out a fair bit of carbon, some of it coming out in chunks. I then heated the muffler up with a gas torch to burn off what I couldn't scrape away. I then used a wire brush to remove the carbon around the inlet and outlet, followed by a rub down with sandpaper to give the exterior a little facelift.
As for the spark arrestor, it went awol a very long time ago. I remember very early on taking the unit to dealer complaining about a lack of power, this was well before me knowing how these things work. They took it out the back and chopped off the wire screen.................I guess that's one way of dealing with the problem.
While I had the muffler and intake off the machine, I had a good look at the piston and cylinder, surprisingly, both look beautiful. I may have worked this engine hard over a long time, but it always got premium engine oil and had clean filters.
The old Zama carburetor, well I am using this as a learning tool. I removed both metering and pumping sides, and as expected, both diaphragms were stiff and brittle. Otherwise, the internals were clean. Even though I bought a replacement aftermarket carb, I've decided to rebuild the original with a diaphragm kit and new primer bulb. Doing so, I'll learn how to do this, and I can perhaps sell it off at the end or keep for spares.
I will probably also remove the flywheel to inspect the three bolts that sit behind, which can work loose over time and cause the engine to lock up. I've had this happen on multiple BG 86's, the fix is to nip them up with a little thread locker.
I'm now just waiting for parts to arrive.
kitdoctor
Well-known member
kitdoctor
Well-known member
@D.F.B I don't have one but what about something from Toledo (or even OTC, Mityvac)? e.g. Toledo 304010
I short listed the Mityvac kit, but they are sold out everywhere.
I also need to get a ultrasonic cleaner at some point, again I have no idea what to get.
A common problem on these Stihl BG blowers that have a little age on them is to suddenly lock up. This issue is well known and is caused by the bolts hiding behind the flywheel backing out over time and preventing the flywheel from turning. I've had this happen on several of these BG blowers, if you catch it early the engine will still turn but will sound awful, as if its about to throw a rod. However, if let go it will eventually come across as if the engine has locked up. I actually sidelined a very good unit for several years because of this.
Now, this BG 55 wasn't showing signs of this issue, but while I had it apart, I thought I may as well inspect them. To do this, you need to remove the flywheel. After removing the 13mm nut, you need to shock the flywheel off the crankshaft. I have done this in the past with a centre punch, and you can use a flywheel puller as well. But today, I put this knock-off tool to good use.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183838815196
This tool is threaded onto the end of the crank, then backed off a few threads. You then put some pressure under the flywheel with a pry bar and give the end of the tool a few sharp blows with a hammer, the flywheel then pops loose, the tool removed, and the flywheel lifted off the crankshaft.
This little project also means I get to use my new tools, a win-win situation!
I also have a threaded flywheel popper, this is for larger 2-stroke engines and uses thread pressure rather than striking with a hammer. This one can be configured a few ways depending on the thread size.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/182938114204
In both cases, these two are much safer for the crankshaft and provide more accuracy than a center punch.
With the flywheel removed, you now have access to the T27 bolts in question.
These ones were nice and tight, but I'd come this far and decided to zip them out and apply some thread locker. Love this ratcheting Wera T-handle!
https://www.amazon.com.au/Wera-416-...hvtargid=pla-1941482174637&psc=1&gad_source=1
Considering how much work this unit has done, I'm surprised at how tight these were compared to others I've had to repair. I'm wondering if the later models with the anti-vibration system are causing vibration to be diverted into these mounting screws and not into the surrounding plastics of the machine.
I'm now starting to anticipate hearing this engine run again for the first time in a more than a decade.
Now, this BG 55 wasn't showing signs of this issue, but while I had it apart, I thought I may as well inspect them. To do this, you need to remove the flywheel. After removing the 13mm nut, you need to shock the flywheel off the crankshaft. I have done this in the past with a centre punch, and you can use a flywheel puller as well. But today, I put this knock-off tool to good use.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183838815196
This tool is threaded onto the end of the crank, then backed off a few threads. You then put some pressure under the flywheel with a pry bar and give the end of the tool a few sharp blows with a hammer, the flywheel then pops loose, the tool removed, and the flywheel lifted off the crankshaft.
This little project also means I get to use my new tools, a win-win situation!
I also have a threaded flywheel popper, this is for larger 2-stroke engines and uses thread pressure rather than striking with a hammer. This one can be configured a few ways depending on the thread size.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/182938114204
In both cases, these two are much safer for the crankshaft and provide more accuracy than a center punch.
With the flywheel removed, you now have access to the T27 bolts in question.
These ones were nice and tight, but I'd come this far and decided to zip them out and apply some thread locker. Love this ratcheting Wera T-handle!
https://www.amazon.com.au/Wera-416-...hvtargid=pla-1941482174637&psc=1&gad_source=1
Considering how much work this unit has done, I'm surprised at how tight these were compared to others I've had to repair. I'm wondering if the later models with the anti-vibration system are causing vibration to be diverted into these mounting screws and not into the surrounding plastics of the machine.
I'm now starting to anticipate hearing this engine run again for the first time in a more than a decade.
Soaking trimmer line, not something I have ever bothered to do. Now this was because at one point I was powering through line so quickly that I never felt the need. Even though I was using it quickly, that didn't account for the line sitting in a warehouse for extended periods. Considering Stihl put a logo on their trimmer lines suggesting to soak trimmer line, I thought I may as well give it a go...................
A quick video from the horses mouth..................
That video suggests you won't necessarily make the line perform better than new, but rather restoring it back to spec. Will be interesting to see how these two lines perform after soaking.
A quick video from the horses mouth..................
That video suggests you won't necessarily make the line perform better than new, but rather restoring it back to spec. Will be interesting to see how these two lines perform after soaking.
kitdoctor
Well-known member
You learn something new every day!
I'd say Kincrome is mid-tier, I went with the brand to get started but have been adding tools from other brands as I go. I have a bit of a crush on Wera stuff at the moment.
And while we are talking tools, buying that tool chest has been such a great investment. Previous to that, I had a hodgepodge of old tools I had found or was given over the years, you the sort, the cheap set you got given at age 15 that ends up breaking or half going missing. Now when I need to fix something, I can just open the draw and get exactly what I need, when I need it. Convenience is certainly a virtue.
Not the best tools ever made, but certainly an improvement over what I had. Again, the kit was about getting me setup with a base line of tools, then adding specific tools to flesh out collection.
Shortly after, I bought another cabinet to house the chest and provide additional tool storage and small work bench.
From then, I started to add what I needed on top of the baseline. The kit didn't include deep or Torx sockets, so I added those via Wera. I wasn't in love with the screwdriver set that came with it, so I sold them to a co-worker and bought the Wera's. While I already had a Kincrome torque wrench, I was at the limit dealing with the Mustang's lug nuts, and I didn't love it either, so I sold it and bought two Wera's to cover small engine work and car stuff.
I've also added 3/8 and 1/4-inch Wera Zyklop's, some Knipex and Koken stuff as well.
The latest stuff being the hammer and file sets.
Some of the older tools I reserve for dirty jobs, plus a collection of old sacrificial sockets.
Next? I wouldn't mind the Wera deep impact sockets, ratcheting wrenches and the Joker wrenches.
products.wera.de
Not the best tools ever made, but certainly an improvement over what I had. Again, the kit was about getting me setup with a base line of tools, then adding specific tools to flesh out collection.
Shortly after, I bought another cabinet to house the chest and provide additional tool storage and small work bench.
From then, I started to add what I needed on top of the baseline. The kit didn't include deep or Torx sockets, so I added those via Wera. I wasn't in love with the screwdriver set that came with it, so I sold them to a co-worker and bought the Wera's. While I already had a Kincrome torque wrench, I was at the limit dealing with the Mustang's lug nuts, and I didn't love it either, so I sold it and bought two Wera's to cover small engine work and car stuff.
I've also added 3/8 and 1/4-inch Wera Zyklop's, some Knipex and Koken stuff as well.
The latest stuff being the hammer and file sets.
Some of the older tools I reserve for dirty jobs, plus a collection of old sacrificial sockets.
Next? I wouldn't mind the Wera deep impact sockets, ratcheting wrenches and the Joker wrenches.
9725 Foam insert Zyklop C, 1/2", Impaktor Deep socket set 1, 11 pieces - Wera Product finder
Durable foam insert; two-coloured for quick identification of missing parts; suitable for the Tool Rebel roller cabinet. Equipped with 11 Impaktor Deep 8790 C sockets, 1/2'.
products.wera.de
Yesterday I went on a day trip to Mitchelton Winery for my sister's birthday. I don't drink, so I wasn't there to sample the wares other than lunch at The Muse restaurant.
https://www.mitchelton.com.au/pages/muse-restaurant
Having been there a number of times in recent years, what interests me most when visiting this venue is the work put into the grounds, which consists of manicured gardens blending seamlessly into the native backdrop and riverbank. I particularly love how they have used hedging cut at apposing angles to the buildings they flank, as if they are part of the architecture.
Being a long weekend, the place was packed with well healed, toffee nosed Melbournians, most covered in fake tan and swimming in perfume. Oh honey, my tan is all natural. I'd make some pot shot at the carpark full of Audi's, BMW's and Porsche's, but my sister arrived in a Volvo XC60 and me in a Jaguar!
Taking the Jaguar was twofold. One, it was a chance to get some miles on it before rotating it back into storage, including a few Italian Tune-Up moments as well.
Two, it gave me an excuse to wash it.
Surprisingly, there was very little bug strike to deal with, just some dust from the gravel carpark. Tyres were cleaned with Brake Buster, followed by Reset for the wheels and body. Drying Aid was ADS Amplify, Stoners for the glass and InnerQD for the interior and leather. For the tyres, I decided to give them a deep clean with mineral spirits, then applied Angelwax Elixir, then some Bead Maker for the wheels, which I find makes wheels pop and shimmer on the move!
Back to spec, the Jag then traded places with Big Blue, back home for the first time since late January.
Before returning home, I took the XR6 for a bit of a drive around the outskirts of town to stretch its legs. Of course, every time I get back into this car, it takes a little while to reacclimatize to the awkward driving position, which is so pronounced coming from the Jaguar's super-low seating position and how the cabin wraps around you. Also coming from the Jag, the big Falcon feels so heavy, where the Jaguar is agile and pointy in the front end.
But then on the flipside of that, the big Falcon is so effortless to drive. The Jag's 2.0 EcoBoost certainly needs the short gearing of the 8-speed auto to keep it on the boil, whereas the 4.0 inline 6 will do the same job without breaking 2000 rpm. Looking at the numbers, despite the Falcon being nearly 200 kg heavier and down two ratios over the Jag, capacity and torque do their thing and ensure the XR6 is faster.
https://www.mitchelton.com.au/pages/muse-restaurant
Having been there a number of times in recent years, what interests me most when visiting this venue is the work put into the grounds, which consists of manicured gardens blending seamlessly into the native backdrop and riverbank. I particularly love how they have used hedging cut at apposing angles to the buildings they flank, as if they are part of the architecture.
Being a long weekend, the place was packed with well healed, toffee nosed Melbournians, most covered in fake tan and swimming in perfume. Oh honey, my tan is all natural. I'd make some pot shot at the carpark full of Audi's, BMW's and Porsche's, but my sister arrived in a Volvo XC60 and me in a Jaguar!
Taking the Jaguar was twofold. One, it was a chance to get some miles on it before rotating it back into storage, including a few Italian Tune-Up moments as well.
Two, it gave me an excuse to wash it. Surprisingly, there was very little bug strike to deal with, just some dust from the gravel carpark. Tyres were cleaned with Brake Buster, followed by Reset for the wheels and body. Drying Aid was ADS Amplify, Stoners for the glass and InnerQD for the interior and leather. For the tyres, I decided to give them a deep clean with mineral spirits, then applied Angelwax Elixir, then some Bead Maker for the wheels, which I find makes wheels pop and shimmer on the move!
Back to spec, the Jag then traded places with Big Blue, back home for the first time since late January.
Before returning home, I took the XR6 for a bit of a drive around the outskirts of town to stretch its legs. Of course, every time I get back into this car, it takes a little while to reacclimatize to the awkward driving position, which is so pronounced coming from the Jaguar's super-low seating position and how the cabin wraps around you. Also coming from the Jag, the big Falcon feels so heavy, where the Jaguar is agile and pointy in the front end.
But then on the flipside of that, the big Falcon is so effortless to drive. The Jag's 2.0 EcoBoost certainly needs the short gearing of the 8-speed auto to keep it on the boil, whereas the 4.0 inline 6 will do the same job without breaking 2000 rpm. Looking at the numbers, despite the Falcon being nearly 200 kg heavier and down two ratios over the Jag, capacity and torque do their thing and ensure the XR6 is faster.
swsman
Well-known member
Any trimmer line I use gets soaked in water.I've been using Diamond Edge trimmer line since 2017. Prior to that, I had been just grabbing anything on the shelf at Bunning's or the mower shop. Some were ok, some were terrible. The main thing I noticed when I switched to Diamond Edge was how hard and brittle those other lines were. The Diamond Edge offered a little more flexibility to it, meaning it doesn't just fracture and chip away, and in turn I was going through less line. Of course, Bunning's wouldn't want that, they need you to keep buying more and more and more.
https://www.greenacresmowers.com.au/search-results?q=diamond edge
I've had no reason to change from Diamond Edge, but I've decided to give Stihl's latest CF3 Carbon Pro line a try. This stuff is supposed to be the first carbon fiber trimmer line to hit the market, although the well-seasoned man behind the desk at the Stihl dealer had no idea of that. Price wise, its actually cheaper than the Diamond Edge.
https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/...Eh7658WeZQQW0WCeLAE495CzNQCykN9S-Z-sjRC0L2-d3
The CF3 Carbon Pro line is made using a three-layer extrusion technique and has a pronounced twist to it, which the Diamond Edge lacks. This construction is supposed to offer superior durability, with Stihl claiming it can last three times longer than conventional nylon line. I would think that claim is in reference to the basic round Stihl trimmer line, so it will be interesting to see how it compares to the similar cross-section Diamond Edge. Both have similar flexibility, although the Stihl line has a much smoother/slicker jacket.
I used the CF3 on a job this morning. Initial impressions suggest that this line is a quieter spinning, durability remains to be seen.
It really helps with making them last longer...
Geoff289
Well-known member
Can't beat the lazy torque of a Falcon 6. Always amuses me how hp/kw numbers get all the attention when, for a road car, ft lbs/NM is what its all about.Yesterday I went on a day trip to Mitchelton Winery for my sister's birthday. I don't drink, so I wasn't there to sample the wares other than lunch at The Muse restaurant.
https://www.mitchelton.com.au/pages/muse-restaurant
Having been there a number of times in recent years, what interests me most when visiting this venue is the work put into the grounds, which consists of manicured gardens blending seamlessly into the native backdrop and riverbank. I particularly love how they have used hedging cut at apposing angles to the buildings they flank, as if they are part of the architecture.
Being a long weekend, the place was packed with well healed, toffee nosed Melbournians, most covered in fake tan and swimming in perfume. Oh honey, my tan is all natural. I'd make some pot shot at the carpark full of Audi's, BMW's and Porsche's, but my sister arrived in a Volvo XC60 and me in a Jaguar!
Taking the Jaguar was twofold. One, it was a chance to get some miles on it before rotating it back into storage, including a few Italian Tune-Up moments as well.
Surprisingly, there was very little bug strike to deal with, just some dust from the gravel carpark. Tyres were cleaned with Brake Buster, followed by Reset for the wheels and body. Drying Aid was ADS Amplify, Stoners for the glass and InnerQD for the interior and leather. For the tyres, I decided to give them a deep clean with mineral spirits, then applied Angelwax Elixir, then some Bead Maker for the wheels, which I find makes wheels pop and shimmer on the move!
Back to spec, the Jag then traded places with Big Blue, back home for the first time since late January.
Before returning home, I took the XR6 for a bit of a drive around the outskirts of town to stretch its legs. Of course, every time I get back into this car, it takes a little while to reacclimatize to the awkward driving position, which is so pronounced coming from the Jaguar's super-low seating position and how the cabin wraps around you. Also coming from the Jag, the big Falcon feels so heavy, where the Jaguar is agile and pointy in the front end.
But then on the flipside of that, the big Falcon is so effortless to drive. The Jag's 2.0 EcoBoost certainly needs the short gearing of the 8-speed auto to keep it on the boil, whereas the 4.0 inline 6 will do the same job without breaking 2000 rpm. Looking at the numbers, despite the Falcon being nearly 200 kg heavier and down two ratios over the Jag, capacity and torque do their thing and ensure the XR6 is faster.
A couple of genuine Stihl service tools arrived this morning.
The first is supposed to be for the removal of carburetor limiter caps, but I have seen it used for removing and installing fuel lines. Using it today, it certainly very helpful for pushing down or up on the line instead of yanking it with a set of pliers and risking damage.
The second being a genuine Stihl inline spark tester. I had bought a Chinese Briggs knockoff that was defective out of the box................I'm pretty much done buying junk, I should have just coughed up and bought the genuine stuff.
This Stihl ZAT-4 has a light rather than showing a spark. It also has a moveable shroud for the light for a better view.
The first is supposed to be for the removal of carburetor limiter caps, but I have seen it used for removing and installing fuel lines. Using it today, it certainly very helpful for pushing down or up on the line instead of yanking it with a set of pliers and risking damage.
The second being a genuine Stihl inline spark tester. I had bought a Chinese Briggs knockoff that was defective out of the box................I'm pretty much done buying junk, I should have just coughed up and bought the genuine stuff.
This Stihl ZAT-4 has a light rather than showing a spark. It also has a moveable shroud for the light for a better view.
Koch Chemie Rapid Rinse-less Wash RRW
Over the last 12 – 18months, it seems as if a new rinse-less wash hits the market every week! Where once it was a choice between Optimum No Rinse, McKee’s N-914 or Carpro ECH20, just about every brand is going down this path. And so, now Koch Chemie have a player in this segment, Rapid Rinse-less Wash RRW.
Koch Chemie (RRW) Rapid Rinseless Wash | Rinseless Car Wash – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Rapid Rinseless Wash | The Rag Company
RRW was released in the US early last year but has only just now gone on sale in Australia. From what I can tell, RRW was created with heavy input from The Rag Company. In early testing, it was said to be on aggressive side, which led to KCx dialing back some of its cleaning ability. Still, looking at the specs and after hearing some feedback on the product, I would say RRW is one of the stronger cleaning rinse-less washes on the market.
As seems to be the current trend, RRW is a surfactant-polymer hybrid and contains Si02 to boost gloss and slickness. With a pH of 4.0, RRW has an acid leaning formulation, which would explain its higher cleaning capabilities. But that number raises to about 8.0 when diluted, which is where the claim of preserving existing waxes, sealants and coatings comes from.
How To Use –
The basic concept of rinse-less washing is that you rinse less. I say this because there are multiple ways to perform a rinse-less wash. Some will pre-rinse before starting, some will go straight to the wash, some will compromise and pre-treat the surface with the same dilution ratio mixed in the bucket and then commence the wash. Some will use a singular wash pad/sponge, some will use multiple towels/pads. The end result is the same, it’s how you got there that differs. Again, I say this because the following “Garry Dean”/Multiple Towel Method is how I rinse-less wash, but its not the be-all-end-all………………………….
1. Mix up your bucket solution. RRW is mixed at the same 256:1 as most other rinse-less washes on the market. I like to mix up 10-litres as it gives me plenty of solution to fill up my sprayer for the pre-soak. To 10-litres of water, add 40ml of RRW and stir with your hand to mix.
2. From this bucket solution, fill up your sprayer, in my case an iK Multi Pro 2 pump action sprayer. You can then add your towels to the bucket, in this case TRC Eagle Edgeless 500's.
3. I like to pre-treat the whole vehicle in one go, although if it’s a hot day, you may want to break the vehicle into sections. I particularly target areas with bugs and horizontal surfaces. The pre-soak starts breaking down and encapsulating the dirt/dust/bugs ect. Even though you don’t have lots of soap and water in play, it’s this encapsulation that makes rinse-less safe.
4. Take a towel out of your bucket and ring out till just dripping. Then fold the towel in half, and in half again. This gives you eight towel sides.
5. Working in sections, wipe in straight lines, swapping/folding to a new side of the towel as you go. This multiple towel method means a used towel never re-enters the bucket, which means your cleaning solution never becomes dirty. As you work around the car, grab a fresh towel as needed.
6. You can then dry the car as you finish a section, or like me, I go around and dry once I’m finished washing the whole car. You can use a drying aid, but quite often these rinse-less products are highly slick, so you don’t always need more lubrication. In my case, I paired RRW with QS, it would have been rude not to.
Usage Notes -
- I pick my mark with rinse-less. I know it can be used on heavily soiled vehicles, but my limit is a dusty vehicle with or without very mild wet road film. Outside of that, I’m using soap.
- Just because this wash method is called rinse-less, that doesn’t mean you can’t pre-rinse the car. Compared to a soap, you are not rinsing off the residue afterwards, rather you go straight to the drying process.
- If you struggle with dilution ratios like me, then the following website makes it easy – Dilution Ratio Calculator
- Mixing up your solution using warm water can be beneficial, but not crucial. I like using warm water for winter washing, if nothing more than to keep my hands warm.
- Depending on the size of the car, you will use about 1.5 – 2.0-litres of pre-soak solution. That’s why I mix up 10-litres.
- Specific to RRW, Koch Chemie stress not using this product in direct sunlight, presumably because of the acidic pH value. I would also avoid letting it dry on the vehicle.
- Because of its extra cleaning ability, I probably wouldn't use RRW for interior cleaning, clay lubricant or quick detailer duties. If you are buying a rinse-less for versatility, I'd probably favor ONR or N914.
- RRW has quite a nice floral scent, which will perfume your working area before, during and after the wash.
Final Thoughts -
Rinse-less wash products keep getting better and better, of which I think the most pronounced progress has been with the ease of drying. Some of the older products would end up being pushed around by the towel, whereas these newer options are easily absorbed into the towel without streaking or excessive effort.
RRW is certainly from the new school, it's easy to work with, offers excellent cleaning ability and smells great. If cleaning power is a key requirement, RRW is your product. If ultimate gloss, slickness and lubrication are your requirements, I'd probably still favor products like P&S Absolute, Gyeon EcoWash and ADS Hero.
Over the last 12 – 18months, it seems as if a new rinse-less wash hits the market every week! Where once it was a choice between Optimum No Rinse, McKee’s N-914 or Carpro ECH20, just about every brand is going down this path. And so, now Koch Chemie have a player in this segment, Rapid Rinse-less Wash RRW.
Koch Chemie (RRW) Rapid Rinseless Wash | Rinseless Car Wash – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Rapid Rinseless Wash | The Rag Company
RRW was released in the US early last year but has only just now gone on sale in Australia. From what I can tell, RRW was created with heavy input from The Rag Company. In early testing, it was said to be on aggressive side, which led to KCx dialing back some of its cleaning ability. Still, looking at the specs and after hearing some feedback on the product, I would say RRW is one of the stronger cleaning rinse-less washes on the market.
As seems to be the current trend, RRW is a surfactant-polymer hybrid and contains Si02 to boost gloss and slickness. With a pH of 4.0, RRW has an acid leaning formulation, which would explain its higher cleaning capabilities. But that number raises to about 8.0 when diluted, which is where the claim of preserving existing waxes, sealants and coatings comes from.
How To Use –
The basic concept of rinse-less washing is that you rinse less. I say this because there are multiple ways to perform a rinse-less wash. Some will pre-rinse before starting, some will go straight to the wash, some will compromise and pre-treat the surface with the same dilution ratio mixed in the bucket and then commence the wash. Some will use a singular wash pad/sponge, some will use multiple towels/pads. The end result is the same, it’s how you got there that differs. Again, I say this because the following “Garry Dean”/Multiple Towel Method is how I rinse-less wash, but its not the be-all-end-all………………………….
1. Mix up your bucket solution. RRW is mixed at the same 256:1 as most other rinse-less washes on the market. I like to mix up 10-litres as it gives me plenty of solution to fill up my sprayer for the pre-soak. To 10-litres of water, add 40ml of RRW and stir with your hand to mix.
2. From this bucket solution, fill up your sprayer, in my case an iK Multi Pro 2 pump action sprayer. You can then add your towels to the bucket, in this case TRC Eagle Edgeless 500's.
3. I like to pre-treat the whole vehicle in one go, although if it’s a hot day, you may want to break the vehicle into sections. I particularly target areas with bugs and horizontal surfaces. The pre-soak starts breaking down and encapsulating the dirt/dust/bugs ect. Even though you don’t have lots of soap and water in play, it’s this encapsulation that makes rinse-less safe.
4. Take a towel out of your bucket and ring out till just dripping. Then fold the towel in half, and in half again. This gives you eight towel sides.
5. Working in sections, wipe in straight lines, swapping/folding to a new side of the towel as you go. This multiple towel method means a used towel never re-enters the bucket, which means your cleaning solution never becomes dirty. As you work around the car, grab a fresh towel as needed.
6. You can then dry the car as you finish a section, or like me, I go around and dry once I’m finished washing the whole car. You can use a drying aid, but quite often these rinse-less products are highly slick, so you don’t always need more lubrication. In my case, I paired RRW with QS, it would have been rude not to.
Usage Notes -
- I pick my mark with rinse-less. I know it can be used on heavily soiled vehicles, but my limit is a dusty vehicle with or without very mild wet road film. Outside of that, I’m using soap.
- Just because this wash method is called rinse-less, that doesn’t mean you can’t pre-rinse the car. Compared to a soap, you are not rinsing off the residue afterwards, rather you go straight to the drying process.
- If you struggle with dilution ratios like me, then the following website makes it easy – Dilution Ratio Calculator
- Mixing up your solution using warm water can be beneficial, but not crucial. I like using warm water for winter washing, if nothing more than to keep my hands warm.
- Depending on the size of the car, you will use about 1.5 – 2.0-litres of pre-soak solution. That’s why I mix up 10-litres.
- Specific to RRW, Koch Chemie stress not using this product in direct sunlight, presumably because of the acidic pH value. I would also avoid letting it dry on the vehicle.
- Because of its extra cleaning ability, I probably wouldn't use RRW for interior cleaning, clay lubricant or quick detailer duties. If you are buying a rinse-less for versatility, I'd probably favor ONR or N914.
- RRW has quite a nice floral scent, which will perfume your working area before, during and after the wash.
Final Thoughts -
Rinse-less wash products keep getting better and better, of which I think the most pronounced progress has been with the ease of drying. Some of the older products would end up being pushed around by the towel, whereas these newer options are easily absorbed into the towel without streaking or excessive effort.
RRW is certainly from the new school, it's easy to work with, offers excellent cleaning ability and smells great. If cleaning power is a key requirement, RRW is your product. If ultimate gloss, slickness and lubrication are your requirements, I'd probably still favor products like P&S Absolute, Gyeon EcoWash and ADS Hero.
Koch Chemie Rapid Rinse-less Wash RRW
Over the last 12 – 18months, it seems as if a new rinse-less wash hits the market every week! Where once it was a choice between Optimum No Rinse, McKee’s N-914 or Carpro ECH20, just about every brand is going down this path. And so, now Koch Chemie have a player in this segment, Rapid Rinse-less Wash RRW.
Koch Chemie (RRW) Rapid Rinseless Wash | Rinseless Car Wash – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Rapid Rinseless Wash | The Rag Company
RRW was released in the US early last year but has only just now gone on sale in Australia. From what I can tell, RRW was created with heavy input from The Rag Company. In early testing, it was said to be on aggressive side, which led to KCx dialing back some of its cleaning ability. Still, looking at the specs and after hearing some feedback on the product, I would say RRW is one of the stronger cleaning rinse-less washes on the market.
As seems to be the current trend, RRW is a surfactant-polymer hybrid and contains Si02 to boost gloss and slickness. With a pH of 4.0, RRW has an acid leaning formulation, which would explain its higher cleaning capabilities. But that number raises to about 8.0 when diluted, which is where the claim of preserving existing waxes, sealants and coatings comes from.
How To Use –
The basic concept of rinse-less washing is that you rinse less. I say this because there are multiple ways to perform a rinse-less wash. Some will pre-rinse before starting, some will go straight to the wash, some will compromise and pre-treat the surface with the same dilution ratio mixed in the bucket and then commence the wash. Some will use a singular wash pad/sponge, some will use multiple towels/pads. The end result is the same, it’s how you got there that differs. Again, I say this because the following “Garry Dean”/Multiple Towel Method is how I rinse-less wash, but its not the be-all-end-all………………………….
1. Mix up your bucket solution. RRW is mixed at the same 256:1 as most other rinse-less washes on the market. I like to mix up 10-litres as it gives me plenty of solution to fill up my sprayer for the pre-soak. To 10-litres of water, add 40ml of RRW and stir with your hand to mix.
2. From this bucket solution, fill up your sprayer, in my case an iK Multi Pro 2 pump action sprayer. You can then add your towels to the bucket, in this case TRC Eagle Edgeless 500's.
3. I like to pre-treat the whole vehicle in one go, although if it’s a hot day, you may want to break the vehicle into sections. I particularly target areas with bugs and horizontal surfaces. The pre-soak starts breaking down and encapsulating the dirt/dust/bugs ect. Even though you don’t have lots of soap and water in play, it’s this encapsulation that makes rinse-less safe.
4. Take a towel out of your bucket and ring out till just dripping. Then fold the towel in half, and in half again. This gives you eight towel sides.
5. Working in sections, wipe in straight lines, swapping/folding to a new side of the towel as you go. This multiple towel method means a used towel never re-enters the bucket, which means your cleaning solution never becomes dirty. As you work around the car, grab a fresh towel as needed.
6. You can then dry the car as you finish a section, or like me, I go around and dry once I’m finished washing the whole car. You can use a drying aid, but quite often these rinse-less products are highly slick, so you don’t always need more lubrication. In my case, I paired RRW with QS, it would have been rude not to.
Usage Notes -
- I pick my mark with rinse-less. I know it can be used on heavily soiled vehicles, but my limit is a dusty vehicle with or without very mild wet road film. Outside of that, I’m using soap.
- Just because this wash method is called rinse-less, that doesn’t mean you can’t pre-rinse the car. Compared to a soap, you are not rinsing off the residue afterwards, rather you go straight to the drying process.
- If you struggle with dilution ratios like me, then the following website makes it easy – Dilution Ratio Calculator
- Mixing up your solution using warm water can be beneficial, but not crucial. I like using warm water for winter washing, if nothing more than to keep my hands warm.
- Depending on the size of the car, you will use about 1.5 – 2.0-litres of pre-soak solution. That’s why I mix up 10-litres.
- Specific to RRW, Koch Chemie stress not using this product in direct sunlight, presumably because of the acidic pH value. I would also avoid letting it dry on the vehicle.
- Because of its extra cleaning ability, I probably wouldn't use RRW for interior cleaning, clay lubricant or quick detailer duties. If you are buying a rinse-less for versatility, I'd probably favor ONR or N914.
- RRW has quite a nice floral scent, which will perfume your working area before, during and after the wash.
Final Thoughts -
Rinse-less wash products keep getting better and better, of which I think the most pronounced progress has been with the ease of drying. Some of the older products would end up being pushed around by the towel, whereas these newer options are easily absorbed into the towel without streaking or excessive effort.
RRW is certainly from the new school, it's easy to work with, offers excellent cleaning ability and smells great. If cleaning power is a key requirement, RRW is your product. If ultimate gloss, slickness and lubrication are your requirements, I'd probably still favor products like P&S Absolute, Gyeon EcoWash and ADS Hero.
I had someone question the pH of this product moving from 4.0 to 8.0 under dilution. My initial research came across the following video, hone in on the 4-min mark -
Neat - pH 4.0
256:1 - pH 8.0
I have since measured this myself using 256:1 and neat -
Neat - pH 4.7
256:1 - pH 7.47
One thing I have learned with detailing chemicals and pH readings.................they don't always play out as you would expect. I've had some very strange readings over the years, well outside what you would think.
Ordered Tuesday evening, delivered Thursday morning..........................
No, not a bag of potatoes, instead 100 bulbs which will soon be planted into pots. It's been a number of years since I've planted bulbs, something I once did yearly. This started in my mid-teens sitting with my grandmother thumbing through the Tesselaar mail order catalog. We would then place an order together and split the postage, with a high focus on Tulips and Daffodils. Funnily, Tesselaar still send out mail order catalogs where you send a money order or cheque.............remember those. I however went with the convenience of online ordering.
And for those wondering, no its not pronounced Tesla like the car, rather Tess-sell-lar.
In the name of tradition, I ordered Tulips and Daffodils. With a limitless list of Tulip varieties, I decided to keep it simple and went with a mixture. I over ordered because I want to mass plant them in pots, in this situation having complimentary or matching tones doesn't matter, it's all about COLOUR! These mix packs are also cheaper, especially when on sale.
https://www.tesselaar.net.au/product/738-tulips-mega-mix
Just like Tulips, there is a huge selection of Daffodils available now, but I like the classic King Alfred variety for the size of bloom. Despite the lack of colour variation, when planted on mass you create a high impact display. Oh, and they were also on sale. :wink2
https://www.tesselaar.net.au/product/503-daffodil-king-alfred
There is something so hopeful about planting bulbs, what look like dead onions get planted out and forgotten about for several months, before bursting into life and rewarding your patience with a spectacular bloom.
Fun Fact - Daffodils and Jonquils go under the genus Narcissus..................
"The botanical name for the daffodil is Narcissus, named after a young man known for his beauty in Greek mythology who was tricked into falling in love with his own reflection. The drooping flowers that characterize most daffodils are said to represent Narcissus bending over to catch his reflection in a pool of water."
Back when I was studying, plant name etymology was something I took an interest in. Often, Latin botanical names point clues to the characteristics of the plant itself, so becoming familiar with this side of horticulture helps with identification, indicates colour or explains how a plant grows.
For example, vulgaris means common, so when you see this listed as the second name it means the plant is widely grown or most prevalent in the wild. Thymus vulgaris = Common Thyme.
Plants with the second name paniculata refer to a cluster of branched induvial blooms, or a "panicle". For example, Murraya Paniculata, which references the clusters of highly perfumed white blooms. One of my favorite plants.
Or, Betula Pendula Alba, the second and third names reference the draping/weeping branch work (pendula) and the white trunk (alba).
This was my bible at the time -
https://www.amazon.com.au/Gardeners-Handbook-Plant-Names-Meanings/dp/0486297152
No, not a bag of potatoes, instead 100 bulbs which will soon be planted into pots. It's been a number of years since I've planted bulbs, something I once did yearly. This started in my mid-teens sitting with my grandmother thumbing through the Tesselaar mail order catalog. We would then place an order together and split the postage, with a high focus on Tulips and Daffodils. Funnily, Tesselaar still send out mail order catalogs where you send a money order or cheque.............remember those. I however went with the convenience of online ordering.
And for those wondering, no its not pronounced Tesla like the car, rather Tess-sell-lar.
In the name of tradition, I ordered Tulips and Daffodils. With a limitless list of Tulip varieties, I decided to keep it simple and went with a mixture. I over ordered because I want to mass plant them in pots, in this situation having complimentary or matching tones doesn't matter, it's all about COLOUR! These mix packs are also cheaper, especially when on sale.
https://www.tesselaar.net.au/product/738-tulips-mega-mix
Just like Tulips, there is a huge selection of Daffodils available now, but I like the classic King Alfred variety for the size of bloom. Despite the lack of colour variation, when planted on mass you create a high impact display. Oh, and they were also on sale. :wink2
https://www.tesselaar.net.au/product/503-daffodil-king-alfred
There is something so hopeful about planting bulbs, what look like dead onions get planted out and forgotten about for several months, before bursting into life and rewarding your patience with a spectacular bloom.
Fun Fact - Daffodils and Jonquils go under the genus Narcissus..................
"The botanical name for the daffodil is Narcissus, named after a young man known for his beauty in Greek mythology who was tricked into falling in love with his own reflection. The drooping flowers that characterize most daffodils are said to represent Narcissus bending over to catch his reflection in a pool of water."
Back when I was studying, plant name etymology was something I took an interest in. Often, Latin botanical names point clues to the characteristics of the plant itself, so becoming familiar with this side of horticulture helps with identification, indicates colour or explains how a plant grows.
For example, vulgaris means common, so when you see this listed as the second name it means the plant is widely grown or most prevalent in the wild. Thymus vulgaris = Common Thyme.
Plants with the second name paniculata refer to a cluster of branched induvial blooms, or a "panicle". For example, Murraya Paniculata, which references the clusters of highly perfumed white blooms. One of my favorite plants.
Or, Betula Pendula Alba, the second and third names reference the draping/weeping branch work (pendula) and the white trunk (alba).
This was my bible at the time -
https://www.amazon.com.au/Gardeners-Handbook-Plant-Names-Meanings/dp/0486297152
It's also HOW that torque is delivered.
My daily driver is a 2.2-litre 4-cylinder diesel..........................
118 kW @ 3200 rpm
385 Nm @ 1600 rpm
Now compare that to the N/A Barra on standard 91-ron..................................
195 kW @ 6000 rpm (210 kW on 98-ron)
391 Nm @ 3250 rpm (420 Nm on 98-ron)
So, the peak torque numbers are relatively close. You would think the diesel Ranger would be effortless to drive with its peak torque produced so low down. WRONG!
The problem is, you have to get it to 1600 rpm first, which in any gear takes an eternity to arrive. Then, when you do get there, its hits all at once and disappears very quickly. This makes it extremely annoying to drive, the lag leading to 1600 is horrendous, virtually dangerous in certain instances. Then its all done by 2200 rpm. The single cab chassis was only available with the 6-speed manual, I'm told the 6-speed auto is even worse. I think what's happening is a combination of turbo lag and throttle lag.
I love my Ranger, it suits my needs to perfection, is relatively comfortable and has just the right amount of tech to be functional but not distracting. But the engine is such a let down. The only way around that would have been to choose the 3.2 engine, but on the single cab, that also means having 4x4 and the associated higher ride height. I don't want or need the added ride height.
Actually, I know what I should have done. I bought this Ranger brand new in early 2016, about $30,000 on the road. For similar money or a little more, I could have also had one of the last Falcon Utes. With the Falcon I would have the choice of two engines, the petrol 4.0 inline 6 or the EcoLPi LPG 4.0 inline 6. Then, a choice of 6-speed manual (petrol only), 6-speed auto or 6-speed column auto. Choice of SSB tub or cab chassis. Superior comfort, superior cabin space, superior refinement, superior driving dynamics..............hell, it came with rear disk brakes instead of the archaic drums on the Ranger. And if I went with the EcoLPi, it would have been cheap to run as well.
These days, Ford obviously no longer offers Falcon, but they also don't offer the low-ride single cab chassis Ranger.......................they all come in Hi-rider spec. And if I did compromise on ride height, it wouldn't get much change out of $45,000........................for an entry level base model with rubber floors and steel wheels (actually, I like rubber flooring). It's insane how much fat Ford (and others) have built into the price of these things, so overpriced.
If I could spec a Falcon Ute today, it would be the following -
- Falcon Ute Single Cab Chassis (For FGX, base models were simply called "Falcon", previous models were XL)
- Lightning Strike (silver) or Aero Blue (light blue)
- EcoLPi 4.0 inline 6 (these actually had more power and torque over the petrol, 198 kW and 409 Nm)
- 6-speed Auto (I don't need column auto and the associated middle seat)
- LSD (factory option)
- Fabricated steel tray with toolboxes (same as I have on my Ranger)
- Cabin Tidy (plastic storage compartment that sits behind the seats)
I'd then add the following after sale -
- 18-inch wheels and tyres from the XR6
- XR6 perforated leather steering wheel
- Alloy pedals
Aero Blue (shown on an XR6) -
Lightning Strike (shown on an XR6) -
Sadly, those days are gone.
Geoff289
Well-known member
Yep,It's also HOW that torque is delivered.
My daily driver is a 2.2-litre 4-cylinder diesel..........................
118 kW @ 3200 rpm
385 Nm @ 1600 rpm
Now compare that to the N/A Barra on standard 91-ron..................................
195 kW @ 6000 rpm (210 kW on 98-ron)
391 Nm @ 3250 rpm (420 Nm on 98-ron)
So, the peak torque numbers are relatively close. You would think the diesel Ranger would be effortless to drive with its peak torque produced so low down. WRONG!
The problem is, you have to get it to 1600 rpm first, which in any gear takes an eternity to arrive. Then, when you do get there, its hits all at once and disappears very quickly. This makes it extremely annoying to drive, the lag leading to 1600 is horrendous, virtually dangerous in certain instances. Then its all done by 2200 rpm. The single cab chassis was only available with the 6-speed manual, I'm told the 6-speed auto is even worse. I think what's happening is a combination of turbo lag and throttle lag.
I love my Ranger, it suits my needs to perfection, is relatively comfortable and has just the right amount of tech to be functional but not distracting. But the engine is such a let down. The only way around that would have been to choose the 3.2 engine, but on the single cab, that also means having 4x4 and the associated higher ride height. I don't want or need the added ride height.
Actually, I know what I should have done. I bought this Ranger brand new in early 2016, about $30,000 on the road. For similar money or a little more, I could have also had one of the last Falcon Utes. With the Falcon I would have the choice of two engines, the petrol 4.0 inline 6 or the EcoLPi LPG 4.0 inline 6. Then, a choice of 6-speed manual (petrol only), 6-speed auto or 6-speed column auto. Choice of SSB tub or cab chassis. Superior comfort, superior cabin space, superior refinement, superior driving dynamics..............hell, it came with rear disk brakes instead of the archaic drums on the Ranger. And if I went with the EcoLPi, it would have been cheap to run as well.
These days, Ford obviously no longer offers Falcon, but they also don't offer the low-ride single cab chassis Ranger.......................they all come in Hi-rider spec. And if I did compromise on ride height, it wouldn't get much change out of $45,000........................for an entry level base model with rubber floors and steel wheels (actually, I like rubber flooring). It's insane how much fat Ford (and others) have built into the price of these things, so overpriced.
If I could spec a Falcon Ute today, it would be the following -
- Falcon Ute Single Cab Chassis (For FGX, base models were simply called "Falcon", previous models were XL)
- Lightning Strike (silver) or Aero Blue (light blue)
- EcoLPi 4.0 inline 6 (these actually had more power and torque over the petrol, 198 kW and 409 Nm)
- 6-speed Auto (I don't need column auto and the associated middle seat)
- LSD (factory option)
- Fabricated steel tray with toolboxes (same as I have on my Ranger)
- Cabin Tidy (plastic storage compartment that sits behind the seats)
I'd then add the following after sale -
- 18-inch wheels and tyres from the XR6
- XR6 perforated leather steering wheel
- Alloy pedals
Aero Blue (shown on an XR6) -
Lightning Strike (shown on an XR6) -
Sadly, those days are gone.
So, this Stihl BG55 has become a learning tool rather than about getting something old running again.
The new carburetor kit arrived last week, and with the machine stripped down, it was a matter of installing the new parts and firing it up.
The new carburetor slides into place and the fuel lines connected. This kit came with a molded fuel line assembly, which was clearly designed for the line trimmers that use the same engine and carb. I had to trim one of the lines as it was just too long and was kinking. OEM parts would fit like a glove.
New fuel filter, which was attached to the pickup line before feeding down into the fuel tank.
I've been buying some specific Stihl service tools from OutBushMan, which specialize in OEM Stihl parts and tools. For example, this hook tool comes in handy for retrieving and then holding fuel lines and filters that are submerged in the tank. It might look basic, but its surprisingly effective and makes this task quick, easy and mess free.
STIHL Genuine Fuel Tank / Fuel Line / Fuel Filter Special Tool # 5910 893 8800 | Outbushman
Chainsaw parts | OutBushMan Australia Pty Ltd
And while this tool was designed for removing carburetor limiter caps, it's also superb for installing and removing fuel lines without stretching or puncturing.
STIHL Limiter Caps Fork Puller Special Tool # 5910 890 4501 | Outbushman
With the carb on and throttle hooked up, it was then a case of installing a few basic service items. The kit was supplied with a "Super Power" spark plug................which was NOT going in the machine. Instead, I used an NGK BPMR7A, which is common to the chainsaws. Later BG blower models take a smaller CMR6H.
Being a Bosch WSR6F, I'd say this could very well be the original spark plug.
New air filter supplied with the kit.
I also replaced the muffler outlet/spark arrestor. The one on the left is from the more powerful BG 85/86, the one on the right is the original smaller outlet.
I ended up buying a couple of new ones as I needed a replacement for another machine as well. Again, this is the larger 9.9mm outlet which allows the engine to reach a higher top speed.
LiiQuu Stub Spark Arrestor for Stihl Blower BG85 BG86 BG55 BG56 BR200 SH85 SH86 SH55 SH56(Pack of 2) : Amazon.com.au: Garden
With the recoil reinstalled, I fired it up for a test run. To recap, before doing this work, the engine only briefly fired but nothing more. I determined it was due to aged diaphragms, which was verified once I pulled apart the old carb. So, the fact I got the engine running and idling, I'd consider that a win..........................but..................
While the engine had good response, it would briefly rev up to full speed then drop down, as if the engine couldn't breathe. From memory, this is why I retired this machine as it just wasn't running hard enough to be efficient, I just assumed it was old and needing carb work.
There are really only two main things that affect these BG blowers, the carb or a blocked muffler screen. Well, I had just addressed both, as well other red flags such as the intake gaskets, the spark plug, fuel lines, fuel filter and air filter. So, I was stumped. Now, the obvious answer would be to open up the high-speed jet on the carburetor..............but not in this case. These very early BG models came with a fixed jet Zamma C1Q carburetor, the only tuning adjustment being the LA adjustment, which only effects the idle speed. Later models came with a more conventional arrangement, which allows low and high-speed adjustments in addition to the LA. And because of the different throttle arrangement, you can't fit the newer design unless you get the corresponding throttle rod and trigger. For some reason, they have H and L cast into the body.
Now, there is the chance the aftermarket carburetor is bad, which is not unheard of. However, as I said earlier, the unit was doing the same thing when it was sidelined a decade ago, ie the original carb.
After some more research, I came across a video that described a similar running issue, which then had me looking back on something I did prior to the carb replacement...............
When I had the flywheel off, there was some oil buildup around the crankshaft. The image below was after giving it a quick wipe. While this residue was dry, that would be from it not running for more than a decade. After watching that video, then looking at the photos I took, a leaking crank seal seems to be the cause of the engine not holding full revs.
A leaking crank seal on a 2-stroke might not sound like a big deal as there is technically no sump full of oil here, however a 2-stroke needs to be completely air-tight for it to run properly. So, a leaking crank seal effectively depressurizes the crankcase and prevents building sufficient vacuum to draw enough fuel. A leaking cylinder gasket or crankcase gasket will do the same thing.
So, now I'm waiting for new crank seals from the local Stihl dealer. As shown in the video above, these can be replaced without stripping the engine down. If this doesn't yield the result I'm looking for, I'm going to set fire to thing.......................should make for an entertaining video!
With the amount of money I've spent on parts for this machine, its most likely more than the blower is worth. So, not a financially smart thing to do, but I'm learning how to do things I've never done before, something that is hard to put a price on.
The new carburetor kit arrived last week, and with the machine stripped down, it was a matter of installing the new parts and firing it up.
The new carburetor slides into place and the fuel lines connected. This kit came with a molded fuel line assembly, which was clearly designed for the line trimmers that use the same engine and carb. I had to trim one of the lines as it was just too long and was kinking. OEM parts would fit like a glove.
New fuel filter, which was attached to the pickup line before feeding down into the fuel tank.
I've been buying some specific Stihl service tools from OutBushMan, which specialize in OEM Stihl parts and tools. For example, this hook tool comes in handy for retrieving and then holding fuel lines and filters that are submerged in the tank. It might look basic, but its surprisingly effective and makes this task quick, easy and mess free.
STIHL Genuine Fuel Tank / Fuel Line / Fuel Filter Special Tool # 5910 893 8800 | Outbushman
Chainsaw parts | OutBushMan Australia Pty Ltd
And while this tool was designed for removing carburetor limiter caps, it's also superb for installing and removing fuel lines without stretching or puncturing.
STIHL Limiter Caps Fork Puller Special Tool # 5910 890 4501 | Outbushman
With the carb on and throttle hooked up, it was then a case of installing a few basic service items. The kit was supplied with a "Super Power" spark plug................which was NOT going in the machine. Instead, I used an NGK BPMR7A, which is common to the chainsaws. Later BG blower models take a smaller CMR6H.
Being a Bosch WSR6F, I'd say this could very well be the original spark plug.
New air filter supplied with the kit.
I also replaced the muffler outlet/spark arrestor. The one on the left is from the more powerful BG 85/86, the one on the right is the original smaller outlet.
I ended up buying a couple of new ones as I needed a replacement for another machine as well. Again, this is the larger 9.9mm outlet which allows the engine to reach a higher top speed.
LiiQuu Stub Spark Arrestor for Stihl Blower BG85 BG86 BG55 BG56 BR200 SH85 SH86 SH55 SH56(Pack of 2) : Amazon.com.au: Garden
With the recoil reinstalled, I fired it up for a test run. To recap, before doing this work, the engine only briefly fired but nothing more. I determined it was due to aged diaphragms, which was verified once I pulled apart the old carb. So, the fact I got the engine running and idling, I'd consider that a win..........................but..................
While the engine had good response, it would briefly rev up to full speed then drop down, as if the engine couldn't breathe. From memory, this is why I retired this machine as it just wasn't running hard enough to be efficient, I just assumed it was old and needing carb work.
There are really only two main things that affect these BG blowers, the carb or a blocked muffler screen. Well, I had just addressed both, as well other red flags such as the intake gaskets, the spark plug, fuel lines, fuel filter and air filter. So, I was stumped. Now, the obvious answer would be to open up the high-speed jet on the carburetor..............but not in this case. These very early BG models came with a fixed jet Zamma C1Q carburetor, the only tuning adjustment being the LA adjustment, which only effects the idle speed. Later models came with a more conventional arrangement, which allows low and high-speed adjustments in addition to the LA. And because of the different throttle arrangement, you can't fit the newer design unless you get the corresponding throttle rod and trigger. For some reason, they have H and L cast into the body.
Now, there is the chance the aftermarket carburetor is bad, which is not unheard of. However, as I said earlier, the unit was doing the same thing when it was sidelined a decade ago, ie the original carb.
After some more research, I came across a video that described a similar running issue, which then had me looking back on something I did prior to the carb replacement...............
When I had the flywheel off, there was some oil buildup around the crankshaft. The image below was after giving it a quick wipe. While this residue was dry, that would be from it not running for more than a decade. After watching that video, then looking at the photos I took, a leaking crank seal seems to be the cause of the engine not holding full revs.
A leaking crank seal on a 2-stroke might not sound like a big deal as there is technically no sump full of oil here, however a 2-stroke needs to be completely air-tight for it to run properly. So, a leaking crank seal effectively depressurizes the crankcase and prevents building sufficient vacuum to draw enough fuel. A leaking cylinder gasket or crankcase gasket will do the same thing.
So, now I'm waiting for new crank seals from the local Stihl dealer. As shown in the video above, these can be replaced without stripping the engine down. If this doesn't yield the result I'm looking for, I'm going to set fire to thing.......................should make for an entertaining video!
With the amount of money I've spent on parts for this machine, its most likely more than the blower is worth. So, not a financially smart thing to do, but I'm learning how to do things I've never done before, something that is hard to put a price on.
Air Compressor Oil Change
I was given this Kincrome air compressor about 10-years ago. These units were specific to the Australian market, going on sale in 2011 via a partnership with the Italian manufacturer FIAC. Mine is the 2.5 HP 50-litre unit with a twin piston cast iron cylinder, but they also did a larger 100-litre 3 HP version as well. Kincrome has since discontinued these units and no longer offer air compressors.
Changing the oil on this unit has been on the "one day" list for a while now. Kincrome suggested an oil change "within the first 100 hours of duty". I wouldn't say this compressor has done a lot of work, initially it was used for tyre inflation and a blow gun, but in recent years, its been powering a Tornador and a pneumatic Rupes polisher, both drawing a lot of air and running the motor and pump quite a lot. Even then, an oil change is probably overkill......................but that's my MO.
First of all, I gave the whole thing a good wash. At one point, I had stored my battery powered Stihl MSA 140C chainsaw on top of the fan housing..................which doing what chainsaws do, it leaked bar oil all over the compressor. I wanted that off! My go-to for machinery cleaning is Bilt Hamber Surfex, which basically melts away oil and grease. After some brush work where required, I rinsed with the pressure washer and applied Hydr02. A quick blow off using the EGO and it was time for the oil change.
While these have a drain plug at the bottom of the block, the location of the drain would end up making a giant mess.................which not my MO. Instead, I used my small oil extractor to **** the old oil out through the filler.
Briggs & Stratton 5430K Oil Extractor Pump, 1.6-Liter | eBay
Briggs & Stratton Oil Siphon Kit 5430K, SP00001 – Power Mowers
I went with Amsoil synthetic compressor oil. No quantity figure is provided by Kincrome, or even a dipstick. Instead, you fill with fluid while watching the sight glass on the side of the block. In the end, I put about 500ml back into it.
Amsoil SAE 40W/ISO 100 Compressor Oil 946mL Bottle PCKQT | eBay
The oil that came out was perfectly acceptable, but I see no harm in overserving tools.
I was given this Kincrome air compressor about 10-years ago. These units were specific to the Australian market, going on sale in 2011 via a partnership with the Italian manufacturer FIAC. Mine is the 2.5 HP 50-litre unit with a twin piston cast iron cylinder, but they also did a larger 100-litre 3 HP version as well. Kincrome has since discontinued these units and no longer offer air compressors.
Changing the oil on this unit has been on the "one day" list for a while now. Kincrome suggested an oil change "within the first 100 hours of duty". I wouldn't say this compressor has done a lot of work, initially it was used for tyre inflation and a blow gun, but in recent years, its been powering a Tornador and a pneumatic Rupes polisher, both drawing a lot of air and running the motor and pump quite a lot. Even then, an oil change is probably overkill......................but that's my MO.
First of all, I gave the whole thing a good wash. At one point, I had stored my battery powered Stihl MSA 140C chainsaw on top of the fan housing..................which doing what chainsaws do, it leaked bar oil all over the compressor. I wanted that off! My go-to for machinery cleaning is Bilt Hamber Surfex, which basically melts away oil and grease. After some brush work where required, I rinsed with the pressure washer and applied Hydr02. A quick blow off using the EGO and it was time for the oil change.
While these have a drain plug at the bottom of the block, the location of the drain would end up making a giant mess.................which not my MO. Instead, I used my small oil extractor to **** the old oil out through the filler.
Briggs & Stratton 5430K Oil Extractor Pump, 1.6-Liter | eBay
Briggs & Stratton Oil Siphon Kit 5430K, SP00001 – Power Mowers
I went with Amsoil synthetic compressor oil. No quantity figure is provided by Kincrome, or even a dipstick. Instead, you fill with fluid while watching the sight glass on the side of the block. In the end, I put about 500ml back into it.
Amsoil SAE 40W/ISO 100 Compressor Oil 946mL Bottle PCKQT | eBay
The oil that came out was perfectly acceptable, but I see no harm in overserving tools.
Something completely foreign was falling from the sky today............... a clear liquid called rain. It was a very dry summer, as has been the start to autumn, everything is crispy brown and super dusty. The rain will hopefully green things up and put some freshness in the air.
So, a wet day meant getting started on a little project I've been plotting for a week now. You know how it goes, to move ONE thing means having to move EVERYTHING.
That one thing being the fridge, which I wanted to move to gain space on the workbench. With just about every inch of floorspace being used, and the need for a power point, the only place for the fridge was to say on this shelving unit. That meant moving the two upper shelves up a few pegs to accommodate the height of the fridge.
I had to cut two pieces of timber to add some stability for the fridge, which tended to wobble on the thin shelf material. On these long-span units, the shelf cladding is actually quite thin, which is fine for storage but not ideal for a workbench...................which is the clue as to what this project is about. Also note I've moved the signs around too.
Ignoring the backpack blower, I now have some extra bench space to work on. The next step involves some carpentry...............which I'm really looking forward to, I love working with timber.
So, a wet day meant getting started on a little project I've been plotting for a week now. You know how it goes, to move ONE thing means having to move EVERYTHING.
That one thing being the fridge, which I wanted to move to gain space on the workbench. With just about every inch of floorspace being used, and the need for a power point, the only place for the fridge was to say on this shelving unit. That meant moving the two upper shelves up a few pegs to accommodate the height of the fridge.
I had to cut two pieces of timber to add some stability for the fridge, which tended to wobble on the thin shelf material. On these long-span units, the shelf cladding is actually quite thin, which is fine for storage but not ideal for a workbench...................which is the clue as to what this project is about. Also note I've moved the signs around too.
Ignoring the backpack blower, I now have some extra bench space to work on. The next step involves some carpentry...............which I'm really looking forward to, I love working with timber.
ajohno
Well-known member
Good thing about having a Ute. Extra room to sort things out.
Yep, although people do like to borrow it a lot because they bought the wrong Ute.
I often use it as a work bench, which offers a nice height and a large flat surface to work on.
While not mine, they come in handy as a potting bench too..........................
