Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

[D.F.B]

I could be wrong here, but from memory the open day was skipped for 2008 in the lead up to the FG Falcon. The next images are from the 2009 event -













Would have loved to hear this thing!





Get him boys!

































This is how I would have ordered a FPV at the time if I wasn't 22 years old and poor, GT-P in Sensation.















This camouflaged vehicle hiding behind a locked gate caught my attention on the day. This would have been the updated/facelift PK Ranger, the black headlight bezel the giveaway.





















Octane Orange was a favorite of mine, worked so well with all of the black accents used on the FPV models.

 

[D.F.B]

The final year I attended was the 2011 event, which from memory was the last open day before Ford bought out FPV and started building FPV's inhouse. The rainy weather really summed up the mood of the day, we all knew there were changes on the horizon despite nothing being public at that point.

By this stage, FPV were building Miami V8 engines in the same space were the 5.4's were assembled. Ford later transferred this small production line to the Geelong engine plant.





I think we as Australian Ford fans should be incredibly proud of what that engine represented. Locally, this was a moment where Ford held the upper hand in the engine department over Holden and HSV. Of course, HSV would go on to wilder things, but FPV offered the supercharged V8 as standard on their models. The Ford fans asked for more power, and FPV delivered.

Globally, this was the world first supercharged variant of the then new Coyote 5.0 V8 platform. FPV were working on this engine before the 5.0 Coyote was made public for the then current Mustang. To put that into context, at factory level, it would take Ford USA until the 2020 GT500 to supercharge the Coyote in 5.2 form. And yet, we had one ten years earlier! Sure, it never reached its full potential, but that was not the engines fault, rather the car it bolted into. I love this engine, the way it pulls like a freight train from anywhere in the rev range is truly impressive. Mine may not have been assembled at FPV, but it's no less special and I feel privileged to own one.

Rare Boss 302 BF MK II GT in an FG colour, Dash -





HAVOC body kit on this AU, not sure what model grade it's based on though, most likely a Fairmont going from the chrome headlight bezels and V8 engine.







The T3 TL50 below is one of three made, incredibly rare.







I'm pretty sure this belonged to a Ford Forum member. I would actually catch up with this gentleman a few years later, I don't remember his name, but he was lovely to speak with about his beautiful car and mine too. Absolutely love Narooma Blue.





Congo Green XR8, a subtle colour combo for an XR.















AU III Fairmont Ghia in Monsoon Blue and featuring Tickford 17-inch wheels, Tickford body kit, sunroof, Momo steering wheel and the optional 5.0 Windsor V8. I've always wanted one of these, in Barossa Red.







These cars were animals! Had a chance to ride in one and loved the mad induction note that 5-cylinder engine had -





New SZ Territory made an appearance too -

 

[D.F.B]

2011 Continued........................





















Fun Fact - FPV (and later, Ford) did not have a separate bumper for the GS cars which were XR based. They simply cut the black bumper on this jig and then installed a plastic trim insert to finish them off.







Now, I mentioned the somber mood of the day, that really hit home when I went over the road to the Broadmeadows factory for some photography.



Cars parked on grass for as far as your eye can see. This was clearly not going to be sustainable, and this was just the tip of the iceberg, the huge parking/holding bay out back was the same, brand-new cars without a place to be. Most of these cars would have ended up being dumped into rental fleets.

From that moment on, I knew it was only a matter of time before the Detroit said enough! To be frank, I think at the time, the decision had already been made, it just took another two years before the public would find out.

It was nice to see despite the challenges, Ford were still proud of what they were making...............



Of course, I captured a few of the XR6 in front of head office................






__________________

 

[Mr.zippy]

Interesting history and photo's! Thanks for sharing!

 

[D.F.B]

The next collection of images don't relate to an official FPV Open day, in fact the signs on the building were long gone by then, the blue buildings were the only clue remaining.





The event held at Prodrive Racing Australia (nee FPR) on October 2nd, 2016 was all-inclusive goodbye celebration to signify the end of the local production. From memory, this event was organized so as to not be in the workers face when the factory officially closed down, giving them a dignified exit while also showing our appreciation. I think I have described that correctly, it was a few years ago now.

This would be the last time I visited the Tickford/FPV/FPR/PRA/Tickford Racing site, many familiar cars were there on the day.

































This car had a lot of attention on the day, the very last GT-F assembled in Victory Gold.





















I got a little confused the regarding the Narooma TS50 in a previous post, it was actually the owner of this TE50 I spent a while speaking with.

















I remember this day being quite pleasant despite the sadness in the air. Five days later, Ford made their very last car and so ended over 90 years of Ford manufacturing in Australia.

 

[D.F.B]

One week later on the 15th of October, 2016, I was invited to an event Wheels Magazine organized to celebrate Ford manufacturing in Australia. Called Ford Falcon - The Legacy Lives On, the day was held at the Geelong Airfield, with both morning and afternoon groups.

This was a day for the fans! Wheels then editor Glen Butler was the MC, with presentations made by then Ford President Graeme Whickman, as well as another Ford executive who, from memory, was in charge of the local product development team. This part of the day was all about conveying that while Ford would no longer make cars in Australia, the legacy of the Falcon would live on in the future vehicles they were still very much actively developing in Australia.







The second part of the presentations included Justin Capicchiano speaking of his involvement on high-performance Fords, mostly the recently released Sprint and GT-F models.



Also present was respected journalist Peter Robinson and drivers Mark Winterbottom and Cam Waters.













We actually gave the owner of this Falcon Squire a ride back into Melbourne, where I was shown some very tasty old Falcon's.















This EA was stunning, probably better than the day it rolled out of Broadmeadows.

















Part of the day included getting a picture taken with the very last Ford's to come off the line. Those cars never received a VIN number, meaning they cannot be registered and there ensuring their preservation.

































A lot of the cars present on the day were also used for Wheels photography and video content -

 

[D.F.B]

Had this delivered today, I'm useless at determining nut and bolt thread sizes......................

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0CSSL6WR5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

[Geoff289]

Had this delivered today, I'm useless at determining nut and bolt thread sizes......................

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0CSSL6WR5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I've got one of them. Extremely useful.

 

[D.F.B]

My Most Used Products

The following products are the ones I gravitate toward the most. While I do like to mix and match, these are products that I know give the best performance, make the task quicker and easier, excel at the “user experience” and deliver me the end result I’m looking for. A nice scent plays a role as well. Important to note that this is not everything I use per wash, just the ones I instinctively go for.

In no particular order, these are my staples ………………………………..



P&S Brake Buster – I’ve been in love with this product from the moment I tried it. Back then, I didn’t have much use for wheel cleaners, and I still don’t to some degree. However, Brake Buster has become a staple due to its versatility and affordability.

I like how this product gives you options, as in it can be used neat or diluted, sprayed or foamed. When used neat, it’s a very capable tyre cleaner that lathers up beautifully under agitation. When required, undiluted Brake Buster can do some heavy lifting, I’ve found it quite effective as a follow up to an iron remover on neglected wheels. When diluted via a foam cannon, you also have a great maintenance wheel cleaner, the foam helping to increase your working time. Backing this up, Brake Buster is exceptionally slick and contains corrosion inhibitors.

I know there is a perception that Brake Buster is only suitable for light maintenance cleaning, but most people who say that have only ever used it diluted, which in turn removes some of its capabilities. When required, I haven’t been left wanting more out of Brake Buster when used neat.

Brake Buster’s only major drawback is its tendency to kill spray heads, a byproduct of its alkalinity, even with chemical resistant spray heads.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/collections/wheel-cleaners/products/p-s-brake-buster-wheel-cleaner







Carpro Reset – I’ve said this multiple times, but I keep trying new soaps wondering if Reset can be beaten, and while some come close, no other maintenance soap can tick all of the boxes like Carpro Reset. It’s easy to pour, foams like a champ, offers exceptional slickness, cleans well, rinses freely and smells amazing. Reset is also highly concentrated, which negates its price premium.

It’s biggest claim to fame comes from it registering pH neutral, but offers the cleaning ability of an alkaline soap. For that reason, there is some suggestion that Reset will degrade wax, but that’s not something I have noticed. In my opinion, the worst thing about Reset is the name, many mistakenly assume that it’s a strip wash. “Refresh” or “Revive” would have been more fitting.

If I could only pick the one soap, Reset would be my choice.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-reset?_pos=1&_sid=fc9b86108&_ss=r







Carpro Hydr02 Lite – I can’t remember where I learnt about this stuff, but what a discovery! Hydr02 put an end to using waxes or specific wheel sealants (Poorboys), a simple spray and rinse application was a revelation. Keep in mind this was before ceramic coatings became mainstream, and certainly before dedicated wheel coatings. So, for the average weekend warier, Hydr02 allows you to get something onto your wheels and calipers without having to do a full wheels-off detail.

Now, it's debatable as to how much “protection” is being provided here, especially next to a stout high-temp wheel coating. However, it does help make cleaning and drying your wheels much easier. I also use it as a topper on exhaust tips. While I don’t use Hydr02 on my own vehicles paint, for completely bare vehicles, using this product after a wash can drastically assist the drying process.

My initial use of Hydr02 was in concentrate form, which was diluted using demineralized water. However, I’ve found the pre-diluted Hydr02 Lite and its Gyeon Wet Coat cousin to be more stable and less likely to streak or spot. It is more expensive this way, but it's also more convenient as you don’t need to buy two different liquids. There is also a Hydr02 Foam, but its junk.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-hydrolite-1l-4l?_pos=2&_sid=f94a9b5ec&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/c...lant-50-100-500ml?_pos=3&_sid=f94a9b5ec&_ss=r





Bilt Hamber Atom Mac – I really only discovered the need for a product like this after taking delivery of a car with gloss black wheels. You see, as the brake rotors dried, a thin film of rust would develop on the surface of the rotor. So, as soon as you next apply the brakes, that rust was turned into orange dust that would undo your wheel cleaning efforts. And on gloss black wheels, this exaggerated the situation.

At some point I discovered Obsessed Garage and a product he was using to help prevent this flash rust, Hydes Serum Rustopper. But of course, it was off limits to Australia due to it being restricted to ground shipping. Actually, I ordered a bottle as an experiment and somehow this shipping restriction slipped through the cracks. Shortly after this, Detailing Shed started to carry Hydes, then Bilt Hamber Atom Mac became available. I chased a product like this for two years, then suddenly I had access to two options.

At its core, Atom Mac is a corrosion inhibitor with many applications. On cars, it helps prevent the flash rust from developing on rotors and won’t impede the safe operation of the brakes or affect the finish of the wheels. I apply this immediately after cleaning each wheel, then again after washing the rest of the vehicle and prior to using a leaf blower to dry. This double pronged application all but eliminates flash rust, nor do you need to do the old backwards and forwards antics to dry off the rotors.

Granted, a 500ml or 1-litre bottle of Atom Mac is very expensive. However, the dilution rate is high, so a bottle will last you for years. At the recommended 5% dilution, you are adding 25ml into 475ml of demineralized water.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=8b09de597&_ss=r&variant=43369685090519





Armour Detail Supply Amplify – I’m at the point now where I can tell if a product is good or not within the first 30-seconds of use. Well, I think Amplify was closer to 15-seconds! This has to be one of the easiest and best ceramic toppers/detail sprays on the market.

The first thing that gets you is the amazing scent. Yes I know, a scent doesn’t necessarily have a bearing on how a product works, but it contributes to the overall user experience. There are products on the market that are quite good at their intended role but are totally ruined by the scent or odour that I refuse to use them. That doesn’t apply to Amplify.

In use, Amplify is just so dam easy to apply. In my case, I use it as a drying aid after removing the bulk of the water with a blower. A few sprays into the towel, maybe one or two onto a section, wipe, flip, wipe, done! It’s this simplicity that wins me over as it significantly reduces towel work. And backing it all up is supreme gloss and slickness. There is literally nothing to hate with Amplify. In addition to drying aid, I also use it on door jambs, engine bays, exhaust tips and wheels.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=3bc96ec9d&_ss=r&variant=44857484050647







Armour Detail Supply Pilot – This has been another instant hit for me! While technically called an interior “detailer”, I’ve found Pilot to have plenty of cleaning ability beyond mild wipe overs or dusting. In most cases, I use this product in a spray and wipe manner, however it can be teamed with a brush and lathered up if needed. I use it on just about every interior surface including plastics, gloss trim, leather, fabric and screens. Pilot also has UV inhibitors and anti-static properties, and the final finish is completely matte, OEM look. And the spiced pear scent is to die for, I would use it for the scent alone!

Overall, I’ve found Pilot to be a very well-balanced product, easily one of ADS’s best! You can tell it’s a serious contender when I move a product into a good Kwazar or Pressol sprayer.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...interior-detailer?_pos=1&_sid=88d56ccfb&_ss=r







Stoner Invisible Glass –For me, glass cleaning is a necessary evil, it’s a job that needs to be done rather than something I look forward to or enjoy. For that reason, I want a product and towel that makes it as painless as possible.

After trying so many glass cleaners over the years, from cheap to expensive, the conclusion I’ve come to is to keep it simple, stupid! There is a definite correlation between heavily scented and coloured glass cleaners and a streaky, hazy finish. Invisible Glass on the other hand is as basic as it comes, a cheap bottle and sprayer, no fancy scent, no lurid colouring. It’s just a glass cleaner, nothing more, nothing less. The fact it it’s cheap and can be bought from any auto store are added bonuses.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...ass-cleaner-946ml?_pos=1&_sid=73620604a&_ss=r
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/invisible-glass-invisible-glass-glass-cleaner---946ml/365486.html#q=invisible glass&lang=en_AU&vid=m5mKgF5KVF+4W3zlSKwYBQ==&start=2





Optimum No Rinse – I was late to rinse-less washing, and ONR was my first attempt at the method. Ironically, I use ONR for jobs other than rinse-less washing. In my opinion, even if you don’t like rinse-less washing, having a product like ONR in your arsenal is essential. Why? Because it's so versatile; rinse-less washing, water-less washing, clay lubricant, glass cleaner, interior cleaner, quick detailer, water softener, household cleaning………………………..

For me, I always have a bottle of ONR mixed up at the quick detailer rate. This then gets used for wiping benches, dealing with bird bombs, cleaning tools, engine bay wipe downs. I also love it as an ultra-gentle interior cleaner, from plastics to gloss surfaces, leather to screens, even rubber floor mats. And as a rinse-less, I like ONR for its lubricated feel, and in the latest generation, its easy drying properties.

A staple everyone should have!

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...-3-8l-new-formula?_pos=1&_sid=a2a17de68&_ss=r







Carpro ECH20 – This product is here for similar reasons to the above ONR, as in cost effective usability. Originally designed as a water-less wash concentrate, many also like ECH20 for rinse-less washing and as a drying aid, however I don’t love it in either role.

I’m primarily using ECH20 at the water-less wash rate to wipe down door jambs, engine bays and the tray of my Ranger. In a technical sense, using ECH20 for this helps clean and dry these areas that don’t actively get “washed” with the rest of the vehicle. In that regard, the mild cleaning ability and high lubrication make it perfect for this role. ECH20 also leaves behind some mild protection and works so nicely on unpainted black plastics.

When used on paint, it adds high levels of gloss and slickness that is hard to beat. And to cap it all off, ECH20 smells amazing and is surprisingly cost effective. In some instances, ECH20 can be a little streaky, which is undoubtably due to the carnauba wax content. However, being a concentrate means you can play around with the dilution until you find the sweet spot. For water-less washing, I’m using it at 15:1, for quick detailer/drying aid duties I would move that to 25:1.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-ech20-concentrate?_pos=1&_psq=ech20&_ss=e&_v=1.0

 

[D.F.B]

I rediscovered these images recently from back in February 2019, An Evening With Nigella..................

Stood for over an hour to get my moment with her, and despite being one of the last in the line, she signed my book as if I was the first. Oh how I went weak at the knees when you smiled at me like that, completely star struck!









She was lovely, very kind and inspirational to listen too. Come the end of the evening, I suspect after having signed books for a 100 old ladies, a young man was a change of "scenery".

 

[hewey]

Thanks for the historical trip down the Tickford/FVP rabbit hole. Those behind the scenes pics are really interesting, and a great selection of modern Aussie fords.

And Nigella, enough said...

 

[D.F.B]

Finally cracked 1000km yesterday...................I know....................

 

[D.F.B]

My Most Used Tools, Towels & Accessories –

Oh boy, where to begin here. See, what I’m using most now in terms of tools, towels and accessories is the result of buying and trying so many different options over the years. So, I now have a very defined list of likes and dislikes when it comes to the various towels, brushes and tools I use and recommend.

TRC Car Wash Towel – From the outset, this is NOT the best towel on the market. The 320gsm is on the lower side, and the 80/20 instead of 70/30 blend means this is a more cost-conscious option. However, don’t let that 80/20 blend fool you, this is an excellent towel.

Firstly, the 41cm x 69cm size is perfect for a wide range of jobs. Combined with the terry-weave construction, low bulk and short pile length makes it an excellent choice for interior cleaning. I liked it so much in that role that I went on to make it my engine bay towel (in red), general purpose towel (in grey), customer polish removal towel (in blue), I even have a set of orange and purple for the kitchen and household cleaning.

At $4.45 each or 10 for $41.45, the Car Wash Towel is very affordable, and I’ve found durable as well.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...2&_sid=5aff79db7&_ss=r&variant=44132055384279



TRC Dry Me A River – For some reason, I prefer these waffle weave towels over specific glass towels. For glass cleaning, this ultra dense and short pile towel is hard to beat. Those attributes reduce the likely hood of leaving lint behind, while also helping to provide a stable/consistent pressure across the surface. While offered in a few sizes, for glass I think you want the medium 40cm x 60cm.

I also have the medium 40cm x 60cm and large 50cm x 100cm in light blue for drying door jambs. In this role, the low pile and lack of bulk helps get into those tight spots of door jambs.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/tr...sq=dry+me&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=31490626027633







TRC Rip-n-Rag – I’ve used something similar for a while now, but these bulk quantity “disposable” towels are far superior to junk sold in chain stores. While only being 180 gsm, TRC went with the superior 70/30 blend, which means they are softer and more absorbent compared to the Repco Eclipse 200 gsm towels that are also sold in box form. And if you want an even higher gsm and size, TRC now sell the Ultra version.

These 30cm x 30cm towels are just so handy to have, both for car cleaning and general workshop or household duties. They are cheap enough to sacrifice for dirty jobs, but with enough quality to make them safe to use on any exterior or interior surface. I’m generally using these for metal polishing (exhaust tips), tyre dressing knock downs, Solution Finish, tar/adhesive removal, Tarminator tyre cleaning, I’ve also used them for leveling ceramic coatings (wheels).

At $69.95 for a roll of 80, this means a per towel cost of only 0.87c each.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=5aff79db7&_ss=r&variant=44392590672087











Detail Factory Tire Scrub Brush – Previous to this, I had been using the Maxshine knock-off Tuff Shine brush on tyres. And that brush worked fine, I really didn’t need another tyre brush. Then this Detail Factory brush arrived on the scene, and for some reason, I felt the need to give it a try.

Holding the two brushes side by side, I was a little puzzled at Detail Factory’s choice of a softer bristle, everything I had been told prior was that you NEEDED a stiff bristle for tyres. Those concerns evaporated within seconds of using the new brush. Turns out that a slightly softer, more flexible bristle is actually more effective as they better conform to the sidewall and offer superior contact with the various sidewall patterns. This might sound weird, but the DF brush seems to do the same job with less effort, while also helping to lather up the cleaner better too. And where the Tuff Shine is all hard black plastic, the DF has a soft cushioned hand grip and an anti-slip rubberised coating to make it easier to hold and use.

I loved this brush so much I went on to buy another for cleaning rubber floor mats, and the XL sized version for larger SUV/Truck tyres, and an even softer bristle version for interior/carpet cleaning………….………….although the original is the best. For years everyone said the Tuff Shine brushes simplicity is what made it so perfect for the role. But somehow, Detail Factory made it even better.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=b112b9dd1&_ss=r&variant=45795360374999









Maxshine XL Curved Grip Brush – Look, I know this is a knockoff of the Detail Factory Curveball and Screwball, but at half the price, even I can’t ignore that. The Curveball is a $55 brush, the Screwball is $68. The Maxshine equivalents are $27 each, or $44 for both. Having used both DF and Maxshine versions, the Maxshine is NOT half the quality.

So why these brushes? Originally, these were designed for cleaning large surfaces such as interior door panels and leather. However, someone influential started using them to apply tire dressing…………..much to the horror of those who created it. And at $55 - $68 a pop, yes, I understand the horror of subjecting such a nice brush to a dirty job like that. But at $26, well, it’s a more palatable proposition. Ok, so that is also a lot of money for a tyre applicator when a $3 foam block will do the same thing. But…………………that foam block will last a dozen or so times, then end up in landfill. These brushes can be used over and over, washed with APC, and used over and over.

What I love about these brushes for tyre dressing is they really help to level out a dressing. I use the soft synthetic version for larger side walls (40 and above) and the boars hair version for low profile (40 and below). The best part is you don’t end up with sticky tyre dressing all over your hands. I also have a separate synthetic version for cleaning wheel faces.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collec...ed-grip-xl-detailing-brush-ultra-soft-bristle
https://detailingshed.com.au/collec...ved-grip-xl-detailing-brush-mixed-bristle-red
https://detailingshed.com.au/collec...hine-curved-grip-xl-detailing-brush-twin-pack









EZ-Detail GO – (AKA - The Toilet Brush) I only bought this brush after seeing Sandro using one in a video. While you can technically use the GO for wheels, I only use it for wheel arches. With the round head of bristles, this is by far the best brush for cleaning wheel arches! The GO is just so ergonomic for this role because it negates the need to flip the brush or twist your wrist to conform to the shape of the arch.

A MUST HAVE!

https://autobuff.com.au/products/ez-detail-go-ez-wheel-brush?_pos=1&_psq=GO&_ss=e&_v=1.0





Great for engine bays too...............



EGO LB-765 – With a proper dedicated car drying blower, I resisted buying an EGO blower for quite a while. After using a Stihl battery powered blower, I felt like the concept was cumbersome and underwhelming. When I finally did cave, I determined that the EGO was good but not as effective as the Big Boi. And that mentally still applies, but……………………….

Being battery powered, there is a massive convenience factor to using a leaf blower compared to lugging a corded machine and hose around the vehicle. Compared to a lot of blowers on the market, EGO’s seem to be geared towards this role due to the way they have designed the lower frame section, which effectively gives you an extra set of handles. And now that they also sell a rubber tipped stubby nozzle, there is no need to purchase the poorer fitting 3D-printed nozzles or even the silicone rubber bands.

At the time of purchase, the LB-765 was the most powerful handheld leaf blower on the market, be that petrol or battery powered. EGO have since released an even more powerful LB-880 and LB-1000, but they seem to be bulkier and will not deliver the full potential on the smaller 2.5 Ah batteries. I’d also steer clear of the LB-530, its just too lean and has annoying throttle lag. Quite often the LB-765 is packaged with two 5.0 Ah batteries and a rapid charger, making it better value than buying a LB-615 or LB-650.











Detailing Seat – I once hated cleaning wheels as it meant being crouched down on my knees, which in my day job as a gardener I’m already doing that a lot each day. My knees have always been dodgy, so anything that gives them a rest is a bonus. And so, discovering seated wheel cleaning was another detailing revelation!

I started using one of those cheap rolling stools from an auto store. This worked ok, but was too high for wheel cleaning, even on the lowest setting. Waxit were the first in Australia to offer the universally recognised detailing seat, which is sold under a variety of different brands including Economax (the Waxit one), Maxshine, Griots, Adam’s, Chemical Guys. There are fancier seats, and I’d love one of those Vyper Chairs, but these detailing seats are just the right height for wheel cleaning, and the storage each side is very handy. I also fitted a foam cannon mount on mine. Being on wheels, it means you can skate from wheel to wheel without getting up and down multiple times. You will also find this seat handy for polishing and tyre dressing.

Which of these to buy? Considering they all come out of the same factory in China, its odd that prices vary widely (DO NOT pay the $240 asking price for the Adam's). Some of them don’t come with a padded seat, including the Economax I have, so I’d say shortlist the ones that are supplied with the padded seat overlay. I actually bought the Maxshine padded cover to fit on my Economax, and it certainly makes a huge difference to comfort.

Seated wheel cleaning is THE BOSS move!

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...with-soft-cushion?_pos=4&_sid=60959c90a&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/economax/products/economax-detailing-creeper-seat
https://www.repco.com.au/car-care-p...G-H3DJpZv7n25UfNmhvQsSZUHTwKuvKsXuIYvrvbXPsCd
https://adamspolishes.com.au/produc...O3ONWqfdDYB3yrja0cpSf1gwMSEQ_L2GLS1NMEJlpGUQU









Buckets – Probably the most used accessory in a detailer’s arsenal! I use buckets for wheel cleaning, washing, rinse-less washing, soaking used polishing pads and excessively dirty towels, to collect the dust from polishing pad blow outs, and even as a laundry basket.

I went overboard with the colour matching gamma seal, grit guard, bucket dolly and stickering. However, there is some practical considerations here beyond it also looking good. The gamma seals help keep the buckets clean between uses, the dollies also play a role in the seated wheel cleaning above. The grit guards are probably overkill for me, I guess I have them because that’s what everyone tells you to do.

At the bare minimum, I would have buckets in at least 15-litre capacity, ideally 20-litres. If you are not going to do gamma seals, at least keep the supplied lids to keep dust and debris out of them between uses.









Pressure Washer Setup – At one point, I found using a garden hose was quicker and more convenient that setting up a pressure washer. That’s because the Karcher K2 I had just didn’t produce enough flow, and was better for cleaning wheels than having to manage that long gun/lance setup. And because of the short hose, I had to move the machine as I worked around the vehicle. Well, that all went out the window when I bit the bullet and spent some money on a Kranzle K1152, then a wall mounted KHD10 later on.

Look, I know that these Kranzle machines and Mosmatic fittings are expensive, and putting it all on the wall………………..well, I purposely didn’t add it all up. I spent waaay too much money on my pressure washer setups, but its what I love doing and this makes me love it even more. Some people spend their money on holidays, booze, drugs, coffee, shoes, watches, handbags, cars………………….we all have that hole we pour money into in the name of a hobby.

Thing is, I could have adapted my Karcher with a better hose, gun and nozzles. And so can you, which means taking an existing machine and completely transform the useability for under $300.

https://detailingshed.com.au/products/kranzle-k1152tst?_pos=1&_sid=9cfa4f94c&_ss=r
https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...10-l-m-new-model?_pos=1&_psq=khd&_ss=e&_v=1.0

 

[littlebean]

great write up as always

 

[ChadTexas]

I really enjoy your garage journal. I would say my interests are aligned very well with yours - lawn mowers, stihl, detailing, garage hang, OG, and cars.

It is interesting the different types of vehicles there are for different regions. I particularly would like to have a simple little pickup with a utility bed for doing projects and driving to work but are not available in my part of the world.

Keep up the good work in your garage. Certainly up to OG spec. You have one of the best pressure washer setups I have seen. Maybe one day a Kranzle will show up in my garage.

 

[Oily Ape]

Thank you for all the pics of your vehicles. I find it so interesting how companies like Ford (and the others) can make vehicles look so different from on nation to another.

In a couple of the photos, there is a black vehicle. For the American in me, I'd call it a Ranchero as a Ford. Or an ElCamino for a Chevy. What is it?

Had this delivered today, I'm useless at determining nut and bolt thread sizes......................

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0CSSL6WR5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Added to the Queens amazon shopping list . Thanks

 

[Geoff289]

Thank you for all the pics of your vehicles. I find it so interesting how companies like Ford (and the others) can make vehicles look so different from on nation to another.

In a couple of the photos, there is a black vehicle. For the American in me, I'd call it a Ranchero as a Ford. Or an ElCamino for a Chevy. What is it?


Added to the Queens amazon shopping list . Thanks

A very quick scan through all the great pics DFB has put up shows up at least 3 different black "Rancheros". They are all different years of Falcon utilities, or utes as we generally call them. There is an XP from the mid '60's, an AU from around '99/00 and an FG or FGX from '09 to the end of production in 2016.

The Falcon nameplate was produced by Ford Australia continuously from 1960 to 2016. For the models produced during the period 1960-71 they were based largely on American Falcons with cosmetic differences. From '72 until the end they were entirely home grown.

For much of the 56-year production period Falcons were available as four door sedans, station wagons, panel vans and utes. The XM and XP models in '64 to '66 and the XA, XB and XC models in '72 to '78 also offered two door coupes. Panel vans ceased to be offered after the late '80's, and station wagons ended with the BF model in '08.

The utes that attracted your interest were an integrated cabin and tub (pick up bed) from the beginning until the BA model which saw the introduction of separate cabin and load carrying structures to enable them to also be offered with a steel or aluminium tray body or enable the fitting of any sort of custom set up. This change had the unwelcome side effect of the toll road fee system classifying them as trucks rather than cars and charging them the same as a Kenworth rather than the same as a small sedan.

DFB will correct anything I've got wrong or overlooked here.

 

[D.F.B]

For much of the 56-year production period Falcons were available as four door sedans, station wagons, panel vans and utes. The XM and XP models in '64 to '66 and the XA, XB and XC models in '72 to '78 also offered two door coupes. Panel vans ceased to be offered after the late '80's, and station wagons ended with the BF model in '08.

DFB will correct anything I've got wrong or overlooked here.

Couldn't help myself.................................

Panel Vans continued until the introduction of the AU Falcon Ute in 1999. There was never an EA - EL based Falcon Ute/Van, so the skipped a generational change and X-Series Utes and Vans continued on with two facelifts. Because of the change to body construction for the AU-series Ute, as in a separate tub/tray, this didn't really permit a panel van. There were prototype EA Falcon Utes that made it through development, but Ford dropped it due to the poor reliability of the early E-Series and Ford didn't want to jeopardize the reputation of their workhorses.

This was the facelifted XG model, which was basically a new grill and headlights. For whatever reason, this is when Ford started calling them "Long reach".



XH Falcon Ute and Van. This was the EF front end, including new suspension design and strut towers, and grafted onto the old X-Series. The frontal panels however are not interchangeable with an EF or EL.



As for Falcon Wagon, that actually continued through until June 2010. In 2008, when the new FG Falcon arrived, Ford had no intention of making a new Wagon due to the popularity of the Falcon-based Territory SUV. Ford paired the Wagon lineup back to only offering the base model, the only styling change to signify the update being a silver upper grill surround and a MK III badge on the tailgate, they also swapped to black carpet. The BF III continued with the BF-spec petrol and LPG 4.0 inline six and 4-speed auto, missing out on the updated engine and new 5 or 6-speed gearboxes. They did however introduce stability control. The Wagon was essentially built as a fleet car for Telstra and the like. Ford discontinued the Wagon in mid-2010 due to the old engines not meeting new emission standards and sales didn't warrant the investment...............or that was the spiel at the time.

 

[D.F.B]

Landcruiser Detail

This job has been many months in the making, the owner asking me to get to it when I got a chance. This was last winter/spring, and well, I had a LOT going on. Single handedly doing the end of season potting, a job that once took a team of 4 or 5 to do, well that left me completely drained. Then the Spring rush, then a major trauma at work, then taking off on leave in time for the car to arrive. Then both the customer and I landed in hospital, which for me wrote off the better part of month. By then it was the run into Christmas, and because it was then summer, it was too hot to detail this car in my driveway (it won't fit in the garage due to the roof rack and GVM upgrade). Then I made a rather large "restructuring" decision, and well, I just wasn't interested in chasing work and wanted time to find my new normal. So here we are.

Unlike some of these Landcruiser's, this one has actually been used for it's 4WD capabilities. It's been driven all over the country, including through central Australia, up and down the east coast, all the way through the west. With that in mind, and 150,000 km ((93,000 miles) on the clock, its got its fair share of dings, scrapes and general wear and tear. It's also parked outdoors 24/7, which would explain the completely crazed and yellowed headlights, well beyond what polishing could clean up. I was the last person to detail this car, but that was quite some time ago. So, I had some work ahead of me.







Note the light paint transfer around the wheel arch, which are from the owner brushing against the front gates. I managed to get these off with a towel and Rupes DA Coarse.







I actually started on the job I hate most................ vacuuming! I had forgotten how nicely this Toyota carpet cleans up, which is complete contrast to most Japanese and Korean carpets, cough, Subaru, cough, Kia. With the help of the Tornador, sand and debris were easily dislodged and sucked up with the vac. I got this part of the job done much quicker than expected, especially considering the size of the vehicle and how much debris there was to remove.



Next, the wheels and tyres, which I did in two stages. Last night I mixed up a full rate 2% PIR Bilt Hamber Touch-less. I went around and applied this to each wheel, wheel arch, and the steel front and rear bumpers. Check out how Touch-less turns the tyres brown without any contact, then drags it down and off the treated surface. I also used Touch-less on the rubber floor mats, then scrubbed with the DF Tyre brush.



Once the Bilt Hamber was rinsed, it was then time for the contact washing. I applied NV Purge to the wheels, which was allowed to soak while I scrubbed the tyres with Wise Guy. From here, I foamed Brake Buster over the top and went in with brushes. These wheels are pretty jacked up, so my efforts could only do so much. But they were at least clean.



Once the wheels and tyres were done, the Touch-less came out again for the rest of the vehicle. While it was soaking, I went around with a brush to agitate around the window frames, badges, the steel bumpers, grill ect. As always, its impressive what this soap can do without any contact, in turn making things easier once the wash mitt comes out.

For the contact wash, I switched to Carpro Descale, which helps address mineral deposits but also is a great strip wash. Because of how big this thing is and the need for a ladder to address the roof, I did the vehicle in two halves. Once rinsed, and there was a LOT of rinsing going on with this car, I went around with Hydr02 to lay something down to make drying quicker.



Once blown down with the EGO, I went around using an old Bowden's Big Green Sucker towel and NV Boost v2 to finish off the drying and add some gloss and slickness to the paint. The door jambs were then wiped down with ONR.

From here, back to the interior. The plastics weren't too bad, so I went straight in with P&S Swift, which has a lovely blend of cleaning ability and a subtle enhancement. Then, the leather was cleaned using a brush and KCx Pol Star. Grey tends to hide dirt quite well, so while they didn't necessarily look dirty, they certainly looked better after scrubbing. Once clean, I went around with Geist Leather Conditioner. I was pretty hard on this product in my initial reviews, but it's really grown on me with every use. On these seats, it applied super nice and gave a subtle enhancement without greasiness or excessive shine.



From there, I went in with P&S True Vue for the glass, which was a challenge in the warm Autumn sun. I then vacuumed the floors again, then reinstalled the now clean and dry rubber floor mats that had been dressed with P&S Swift. A misting of OG Leather & Pine scent and the interior was done. Finally, Carpro Perl went on the sizable Cooper Discovery AT tyres using the TRC Ultra Utility Brush for efficiency. I also dressed the spare tyre on the rear tailgate.

The mess left in my driveway.....................



The finished result, after hosing the filth from my driveway........................









With the owner only a few blocks away, I picked up and dropped off the car. Which considering how much I love the engine in this beast, any chance to drive it is a treat. I know the 4.5 diesel V8 was laughed at for being underpowered for the cubic capacity, you really wouldn't know it due to how smooth and effortless it feels. The owner has told me multiple times he will never sell it, the new V6 diesel 300-Series is not on his radar, and especially not the V8 petrol powered Nissan Patrol. And I totally understand why.

 

[D.F.B]

I really enjoy your garage journal. I would say my interests are aligned very well with yours - lawn mowers, stihl, detailing, garage hang, OG, and cars.

It is interesting the different types of vehicles there are for different regions. I particularly would like to have a simple little pickup with a utility bed for doing projects and driving to work but are not available in my part of the world.

Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.

Sadly, the passenger-car-based Ute's are no longer made in Australian, or any cars to be precise. With the demise of Australian car manufacturing, its the Ute that is most missed as no one else offers them. Oh, sure, you can still buy the single cab Ranger/Hilux/Triton ect, but they are a very different vehicles and NOT a replacement for a "Ute". Actually, these vehicles are not Ute's, they are pickups. I'll explain this shortly.................................

Thank you for all the pics of your vehicles. I find it so interesting how companies like Ford (and the others) can make vehicles look so different from on nation to another.

In a couple of the photos, there is a black vehicle. For the American in me, I'd call it a Ranchero as a Ford. Or an ElCamino for a Chevy. What is it?

Yes, its time for another history lesson with DFB........................

Americans might not know this, but the concept of a "Ute" was invented by Ford Australia in the 1930's. In in mid-1933, Ford Australia received a letter from a farmer’s wife -

“My husband and I can’t afford a car and a truck but we need a car to go to church on Sunday and a truck to take the pigs to market on Monday. Can you help?”

The message was passed on to a 23-year old designer called Lewis Brant. He went on the design a vehicle that used the chassis, drivetrain and frontal design of the Ford Model 40 coupe, but instead of a trunk, it had a cargo bed that was integral to the bodywork and not a separate tub/tray/bed. This what makes it different to a truck or pickup truck, and where the term "Ute" comes from, as in an abbreviation of "Coupe Utility". The end result went into production in 1934 and delivered a vehicle that had the comfort and handling of a car, combined with the load hauling ability of a truck.







It's said that Henry Ford was dismissive of the concept, calling it a "Kangaroo chaser". Despite that, the Ford Coupe Utility became very popular. It's one of the few contributions Australia made to the automotive world, to the point where several other companies in Australia began adding their own version of a Coupe Utility, including the Holden.

When Ford tooled up to make the Falcon for release in 1960, Ford Australia also designed wagon, Ute and panel van models to accompany the sedan, and the later coupe/hardtop. If you think about how modern car companies talk about modular platforms, well Ford were doing it in the 1960's. This drawing shows how they mixed and matched panels to make the different models.









It's during this era when Ford and GM in America started to offer their own "Ute", the El-Camino and Ranchero. We never got those models here, we had our own. Unlike those models, we had Utes right up until the 2016 and 2017 shut downs of Ford and Holden's factories.

The second generation Falcon again had Utes and Vans, 1966 to 1972.................................





Third generation, 1972 to 1979................................



Fourth generation, 1979 to 1993............................





Fourth generation, XH facelift, 1996 to 1999........................





This is where the concept gets a little blurry. For the 1999 AU Falcon Ute, the first all-new Utes since 1979, Ford created separate chassis rails that mated to the sedan from the A-pillar forward. This then permitted building Utes with a tub/bed, or as a "cab-chassis" which allowed for customers to fit different trays/beds without having to produce two different sets of body panels. Except, this meant the unbroken and integrated side panel was no longer used.

So, were they still a Coupe Utility? That's a hard question, but being still based on a passenger vehicle, I'd say yes. These Falcon Utes were even more comfortable than the models that went before, and still backed by stout 4.0 inline 6's and powerful 5.0 and 5.4 V8's.

AU models, 1999 to 2002........................







The AU was facelifted in 2002, of which the BA and BF models carried on till 2008. This was also when the performance models became a thing.............................









The final generation Falcon went into production in 2008 and carried on with two facelifts till the end of 2016...............................













While Ford went to a separate tub, Holden kept the unbroken side panels and had a much sportier presentation, they even used IRS instead of a live axle. While the Holden's were immensely popular, especially with young males, Ford's diversification in offering a cab chassis meant the Falcon Ute sold much better.











The concept of a comfortable, powerful and well equipped two door Ute is non-existent these days. A Ranger, Hilux, Triton single cab is restricted to the base models with rubber floors and underpowered diesel engines. They ride poorly (excluding Ranger), the engines are noisier and less refined, are extremely slow and don't drive nicely.

As I said at the start, the Ute is where we notice the lack of local cars now..............................."you don't know what you've got till its gone............." I just wish I had bought a last of the line Falcon Ute instead of the Ranger I have now.

 

[moab11]

Pontiac in North America was about to bring over a holden ute under the G8 badging(which the sedans were holden cars), unfortunately that plan got scrapped as well as Pontiac before it could happen.

 

[D.F.B]

You know when it's a now or never situation and things end up at a point of no return............................



That is a complete engine assembly for a Stihl BG 86 blower sitting out of the plastic chassis. This machine I had to sideline for a brand-new blower because it kept breaking the recoil spring. I assumed it was something to do with the crankshaft bearings as something didn't feel right when pulling on the rope. I didn't have the time to mess about, so it got put away for parts.

A few weeks ago, I pulled it down and found that the engine was loose in the chassis, which was causing it to flex and twist when being pulled over, in turn putting more strain on the starter and starter spring. Hence the breakages. As I stripped it further, I then discovered someone (the dealer) had tried to remedy this with a coarse thread timber screw. Of course I was never told this. So, I thought perhaps I could have a go at doing this repair PROPERLY. Once again, this is why I am doing these jobs myself, no one gives a sh.t and I'm fed up paying for such incompetence.

This shows the damage caused, the timber screw had wallowed out the threads. There are three of these to hold the engine assembly to the blower frame, the hole should be for a M5 fastener, well its beyond M7 here...........



So, after some recommendations, I grabbed this Helicoil kit from Supercheap. Because of the damage, I had to go up to an M6 fastener, which I had on hand after buying an assortment of Stihl hardware last month.

ToolPRO Thread Repair Kit 131 Piece

ToolPRO Thread Repair Kit 131 Piece

www.supercheapauto.com.au

(I paid cash for this kit, much to the bemusement of the young lad on the register, took him a while to figure out how much change to give me. )





I have never used a Helicoil before, let alone a thread tap. Because of how flogged out the hole was, the supplied drill bit was only used to finish off the work of the wrongly used fastener. The tap threaded in and started cutting smoothly, which was used with some lubricant and the occasional back and forward to help it along. As always, I watched how to do this multiple times, many thanks to the Mr. Dactyl.....................

This hole is an external pass through, so no chance of metal chips entering the engine. The Helicoil insert is then wound in with the supplied install tool, the winding tab then broken free with the supplied punch. I had threads again!



Then it was a case of putting it all back together again. This involves reconnecting the fuel lines before aligning the engine unit back into the frame and the bolts tightened down, the repaired threads torquing nicely. The fan is then put back on the crankshaft with a washer either side, followed by the reverse thread nut, followed by the fan cover. On the other side, the throttle rod is connected to the trigger and the kill wires hooked back onto the coil. From here, the front cover/recoil is reattached, and the blower tube reconnected, which on this machine needs the assistance of three tek screws to hold it in place.............the result of working a hard life.



Having used and worked on countless examples of these blowers since 2002, I know them inside out. There is reason why I've gone to the trouble with this machine, the engine is a bit of freak in that it's always been stronger than other BG 86's I've used. In particular, it revs harder and has terrific throttle response.

Here's hoping this fix holds up.

 

[D.F.B]

This is me at Sandown back in November 2018. I had just done three laps in a 4-cylinder Jaguar F-Type, the first time on a racetrack................in the wet no less, my instructor Tony D'Alberto. So, I was pumped with adrenalin.......................



For the following run, I was put in the supercharged V6 F-Type. With the extra power and the wet roads, I lost some confidence.

For some reason, I regained my confidence after stepping up to the big-d.ck F-Tyre R with its 550hp supercharged V8, no doubt the AWD system and extra weight gave it a more planted feel. A fellow attendee took a short clip of me hurtling down the main straight...............

This is the most powerful car I have driven. For anyone who has experienced a Miami powered Falcon, you will know that relentless surge of power and speed that is the hallmark of supercharged V8. Well, the F-Type R is the same, but with an extra 50hp and without the torque limiting that goes on with the non-intercooled Miami. Throw in the 8-speed auto and the accompanying heavy metal V8 soundtrack, the experience was only bettered being in the passenger seat with Tony at the wheel................wow, did that paint a picture of how slow I was.................. and how fast he is!

 

[D.F.B]

First job of the day and after two strips of lawn, the Rover locked up the rears, then wouldn't drive the right rear.............single wheel peel. I know I should have stopped to prevent potential further damage, or at least just pushed the mower, but this thing is just too heavy to push on thick and spongy Kikuyu. With only the one-wheel driving, I needed to both push and steer it straight. Luckily, I only had one lawn to do, so I limped it through and would look at it when I got home.

I've done this enough times now to be confident tackling a task like this. Remove the hub cap, remove the stupid wheel retainer washer, then slide the wheel off the axle.

The culprit? A slipped circlip, which caused the washer to pop off the drive shaft and the pawl going with it. One properly munted washer, the pawl looked fine, as did the circlip....................



And THIS is why I now have a healthy spare parts supply. In this case, all I did was replace the washer and circlip. Reassembled and tested, problem sorted.



On those wheel retaining washers Rover used, I hate them! They are a pain to remove, requiring you to mess about with a hammer and flat screwdriver lever them off the axle. This almost always breaks the stupid things, which means replacement. Then, you need that hammer again to beat the new one back on the axle with an old socket.

https://powermowers.com.au/products...s-set-of-4-a03092?_pos=2&_sid=1f097853c&_ss=r



Rover (MTD) used those clips across the range, from the basic 18-inch steel deck base model, right up to the top of the range alloy deck 22-inch ProCut 560. While Masport also use them on the entry level machines, they switch to a threaded axle and nyloc nut for the high end and Contractor series. Victa use E-clips and on the steel chassis variants, and a combination of E-clips and wire M-clip on the alloy deck models. All preferable to those stupid tension washers.

 

[Xti04]

Nice work on your blower repair. My Stihl br380 backpak blower kept breaking pull starts and was impossible to start. Turned out the keyway for the fan had sheared so it wasnt spinning smoothly. After a new key was installed all was good. Of course it was a Stihl only part so it took a month and a half to get it.

 

[D.F.B]

Nice work on your blower repair. My Stihl br380 backpak blower kept breaking pull starts and was impossible to start. Turned out the keyway for the fan had sheared so it wasnt spinning smoothly. After a new key was installed all was good. Of course it was a Stihl only part so it took a month and a half to get it.

From what I have seen, its a relatively common problem on those blowers. And yeah, I'm waiting on two parts from Stihl that the aftermarket doesn't support, not sure I'll ever get them to be honest.

 

[D.F.B]

I've always been of the opinion that dreams are free. Well, money no object, I could get behind a "master collection" like this..........................

Obsessed Garage Hand Tool Master Collection

The ultimate hand tool collection—every OG solution, fully vetted and dialed. No compromises, just the best tools in one complete ecosystem.

www.obsessedgarage.com

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1239/9256/files/Hand_Tool_Master_Collection_Spreadsheet.pdf?v=1744382492

Completely overboard, and totally awesome because of it!

 

[moab11]

Good grief! That's a big chunk of change!

 

[D.F.B]

Good grief! That's a big chunk of change!

That price is in USD, in AUD its $72,965!

 

[moab11]

That price is in USD, in AUD its $72,965!

It's not even listed on his Canadian site (seems he's pushing hard for Canadian business with all the stuff going on)

 

[D.F.B]

It's not even listed on his Canadian site (seems he's pushing hard for Canadian business with all the stuff going on)

From what I've heard on his podcast, the Canadian website is starting with more basic products and packages, but with the goal of offering the entire lineup.

He has also stated many times that the idea of a "master collection" is more about inspiring a shopping list rather than selling someone $70k worth of tools in one hit. Same applies to his power tool and detailing master collections.

 

[Xti04]

From what I have seen, its a relatively common problem on those blowers. And yeah, I'm waiting on two parts from Stihl that the aftermarket doesn't support, not sure I'll ever get them to be honest.

Hopefully your Stihl dealer moves faster than mine. It took forever, so long in fact I had relegated the project to "possible scrap status" and forgotten I had ordered parts for it.

 

[D.F.B]

Hopefully your Stihl dealer moves faster than mine. It took forever, so long in fact I had relegated the project to "possible scrap status" and forgotten I had ordered parts for it.

I get the feeling Stihl would rather dealers focus on selling new machines, rather than selling parts or a repair service. My dealer can be great, but are often terrible. I went in looking for a very common fuel filter that Stihl uses on pretty much every chainsaw in the lineup, but no, they couldn't even find it in stock. I was told they would call me when it was in.........................three months later I still didn't have that filter. Same story with an air filter for a MS271 chainsaw, again a pretty common service item on a pretty common saw.................they didn't have one.

I'm not sure if this is the same in the US, but apart from basic items, Stihl don't allow dealers or others to sell OEM Stihl parts online. And I've found most aftermarket parts to be highly variable in quality and fitment. So, you are basically backed into a corner to buy these parts at the dealer........................if they get around to calling you, or even if they bother to order the part.

 

[hewey]

That's a great history on the development of the Aussie ute. I think we take for granted how unique our local manufacturing was, in terms of so many body styles being based on the same platform.

The other thing Ford did really well was the killer ute based concept cars. One of my personal favourites was the Terra. But perhaps this was just to distract us of what a woeful looking ute the XH was, slapping a curvy EF Falcon front on the boxy XD/XE tray...

 

[D.F.B]

That's a great history on the development of the Aussie ute. I think we take for granted how unique our local manufacturing was, in terms of so many body styles being based on the same platform.

The other thing Ford did really well was the killer ute based concept cars. One of my personal favourites was the Terra. But perhaps this was just to distract us of what a woeful looking ute the XH was, slapping a curvy EF Falcon front on the boxy XD/XE tray...

If there was one thing Ford did better than Holden from 1985 onward, it was continuing to make Falcon Ute's. Then in 1999 for the new AU model, moving to a split cabin and load compartment design made the Falcon Ute more versatile than the Holden of the time, which translated to sales leadership in that segment.

The XH Falcon Ute? Yeah, I was never into them, but.....................................they have grown on me in recent years.

 

[D.F.B]

So on that note, I've dug into my archives............................

Terror Ute -

The Terra was developed with RMIT design students and was displayed at the Melbourne motor show in 1997. The Terra had had a 40mm ride increase and 15-inch wheels with Yokohama mud tyres. I've seen this vehicle multiple times.





Falcon Sandfire Ute -

This was a concept car that did the 1998 show circuit. Ford Australia's design team made significant changes to the donor car, including the cutaway front panels, the shaved rear end with unique tail lamps, the massive side exit exhausts and the neoprene-trimmed fastback canopy.

More here - https://garage.repco.com.au/fords-wild-1990s-ute-concept/







Venom Ute -

This was a bit of a who's who upgrade to then new AU Falcon XR8 Ute, said to have had $40,000 worth of aftermarket accessories. The worked over engine was from Herrod, Harrop did the brakes, 'Boyd Coddington' Billet Alloy Wheels, Dunlop SP Sport 9000 255/35ZR18 tyres. Then add a custom tonneau, unique instrument and door trim accents, grey suede seats, Clarion audio system with colour screen, and a 60mm drop in ride height. The special colour they used was called Wizard Blue.

(These are images I took at the FDC)







Mongrel Concept -

This surfaced in 2001 and was a joint promotional exercise between Ford and several aftermarket suppliers, the idea to highlight how customizable the new Falcon Ute was. In addition to the raised ride height, it had Python 17-inch wheels wrapped in Wrangler F1 235/65R17 tyres, bull bar, roll bars, light bar, snorkel and wheel arch flairs.



R5 Concept -

There are actually two of these, one with RWD and one with AWD. Both were public reaction devises, showing Ford's intent on building an AWD vehicle off the Falcon platform. While the dual-cab body never made production, it actually caused Holden to do their own..................history will show that the Frankenstein Crewman never made it to a second generation and that Ford's eventual move to an SUV proved much more successful. However, the R5 did give hints to the upcoming BA Falcon, check out the grill designs, the lower air intake and several interior design elements.

The RWD version came first, which from memory used the 4.0 SOHC VCT engine -







The AWD version came a year later, which used the 5.0 220 kW V8 from the XR8 -











From the FDC -





Rugged Terrain Vehicle Concept -

This actually went into production as the RTV, the name was selected by Ford in a naming contest. The concept had raised suspension, a diff lock, underbody bash plates, a unique egg-crate grill, chunky off-road tyres on unique wheels, wheel arch flairs and colour-coded steel tray. Everything bar the wheels and tyres went into production. The production RTV used the petrol and LPG versions of the 4.0 inline 6, or the 3V 5.4 V8. All offered with a choice of 5-speed manual and 4-speed auto. The RTV went on to be very popular.













The production model -







All of these concepts I have seen in person.

 

[kitdoctor]

I could get behind a "master collection" like this

Imagine typing out that list of tools

 

[D.F.B]

Imagine typing out that list of tools

This quote is from the guy who was tasked with collating it all and taking the images for product listing......................

Man... this one almost killed me, lol. It was one of the biggest projects we've done in the shortest amount of time, but I think the final result speaks for itself, and we're all really proud of it. Hopefully, some rich guy buys it so we can justify the hundreds of hours of time invested and keep doing cool stuff like this.

 

[Geoff289]

This one might not have been factory sanctioned.

 

[D.F.B]

Got the Ranger all cleaned up again today. I've been mixing it up by using rinse-less over the last couple of weeks.............sort of.

First, I clean the wheels and tyres as normal, rinse the whole car, then go in with rinse-less. Today I decided to use DIY Rinse-less Wash teamed with Ceramic Gloss, I keep forgetting how nicely these two play together.



This is the original version of DIY Rinse-less, it's since been updated to a new v2 formula. Apart from v2 being $10 more than v1, the new formula has different "polymer package", which increases lubrication and slickness, while also causing that milkier colour. They claim it took two years to develop and maintain it doesn't "leave anything behind".

Also today, I reapplied ADS Ghost to the tyres. I first applied Ghost to these tyres way back in mid-January and have been very pleased with how it looked and kept the tyres cleaner for longer. You also virtually eliminate the need for strong tyre cleaners, save for the prep work prior to application. In this case, I scrubbed with ReTyre, then wiped down with mineral spirits. This time I applied two coats of Ghost.



The Easter holiday period started today for me.................I can't remember the last time I didn't work over Easter. So, I decided to get both Falcon's out from under their covers and hopefully enjoy some seat time before it starts raining over the weekend.