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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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D.F.B

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Back in the late 90’s and early 2000’s, my Dad set up a pot-belly stove in the carport that he would have burning during the winter months. My dad spent the whole week stuck in an office running his construction company, so on weekends, he liked to spend time outdoors. I loved winter during these years for a variety of reasons, most of which centred around that wood burning stove.

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Obviously, a pot-belly stove needed wood, which meant regular firewood collection. Most people would see this as a chore, but to a 15-year-old, it was something I anticipated. Sometimes, we would go with a neighbour and split the load, Dad provided the truck, the neighbour the chainsaw (the 028 AV Super that I now own). Sometimes, it was just me and Dad. This was special because it meant spending time with my Dad, who as a business owner worked long hours. And once Dad finally bought a chainsaw, it also meant getting to use a chainsaw! I also got to drive a car well before getting my learner's permit. For some reason, I have recurring dreams of collecting firewood with Dad.

I remember the day Dad and I went to the local Stihl dealer with intent on buying a chainsaw. We didn’t need something to fell trees, just something cut firewood. With that in mind and the fact Dad doesn't like spending money, I had the 017, 018 and 021 in my sights. To me, a Stihl chainsaw looks a certain way, the predominantly white with orange accents is so recognisable, as such this is the picture I had in my mind. Well, that didn’t go to plan…………………….

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When the salesman was told what we needed, instead of showing us the MS170, he began selling Dad on the 009L. The 40.8cc engine was larger than the 30.1cc 017, 31.8cc 018 and 35.2cc 021. The 009L also had two instead of one piston ring, and could be used single handed (I didn't see the appeal in that). It was also cheaper than the 021, and offered better value than the 017 and 018. All of that convinced Dad to buy the 009L. I was crushed……………………it just didn’t look like a normal Stihl. (Keep in mind here, I was something like 15-years old here.)

The thing is, despite goofy look, the 009L punches well above its size and weight would have you believe. The 40.8cc engine size in such a small footprint meant that it was light and easy to handle, but packed more than enough grunt. It looked like a toy, but performed like a serious tool. They also sound different, a byproduct of their low revving/high torque engines, to the point where they don't have the same top end ZING of modern saws.



There are only two main drawbacks to the 009L -

- The lack of anti-vibration, which is a byproduct of a saw that first went on sale in 1980.
- The air filter is very small and tends to clog up quite quickly.

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Even though I didn’t buy the saw, I looked after it like it was mine. After each use, I would clean the air filter, wiped it down and put it away in a plywood case that we built to transport it. The case was large enough to fully enclose the saw, chains, scrench, bar oil, fuel tin, and rags. This explains why the saw looks so good despite it doing plenty of work and being 23 years old.

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As it stands, this is the very first chainsaw I got to use. It’s strange, I have always been frightened of using something like an angle grinder…………………………but I have no problems using a chainsaw. Go figure.

In recent times, I decided to get this saw out, clean it up a bit and replace a few service items. I have had this saw apart many times before, so it took no time cleaning out all the old saw dust and oil. The air filter was in good condition, so I just blew it out with compressed air, the muffler spark arrestor was removed and cleaned with a wire brush.

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The 14-inch bar on the saw is not the original but in great condition, so it was simply cleaned. The chain was replaced as the one on it was too far gone. The original Bosch R10 spark plug was replaced by a NGK BPMR7A.

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After the new plug was installed, the saw coughed from the first pull on the choke and then fired on the second without it. I then drained the fuel tank and run the engine dry to help with storage.

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D.F.B

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Tool Cleaning Day………………………………

Surprise, surprise, I like clean tools. Considering my line of work, that isn’t always possible, so it ends up being an occasional attempt. It doesn’t help when someone returns a borrowed tool in dirty condition……………………:mad:

Kranzle K1152 –

This was actually on the to-do list waaaay back in September last year. Someone borrowed my beloved pressure washer without asking, then returned it covered in mud…………..and no apology. That same person also borrowed my new MS271 chainsaw, then returned it filthy and covered in sap. Anyway, the day I was going to return the pressure washer to DFB-spec, my Dad decided he would borrow it as well……………………………. I only got it back on Monday, 9-months later! My neighbour once told me that “you can lend your wife, but not your chainsaw”. Not a very PC thing to say these days, but the notion of not lending good tools I can certainly appreciate, thus I don’t recommend lending your $2000 pressure washer or near-new chainsaw.

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Ironically, the best way to clean a pressure washer is..............with another pressure washer. But first, the hose was dragged all the way out, then Brake Buster applied to it and the machine itself. A little light agitation with a soft brush, then everything was rinsed. Following that, some Hydr02 to assist with drying, then Shine Supply Decked Out to add some lustre to the plastics.

I feel so much better now! :cool:

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Husqvarna 522L -

I bought this trimmer back in November 2018, and I have to say, it’s been one of the most reliable pieces of machinery I’ve ever owned. At the time, it was the first non-Stihl branded tool I had bought, so a leap of faith on my part. And it was a leap that’s paid off.

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And over the 6.5-years it’s been in service, I’ve done very little to it. Service items include 1 air filter, 1 fuel filter, and 1 spark plug. The OE-fit cutting head was replaced by a Speed feed head, which had its bump cap replaced last year. The muffler spark arrestor has been removed and inspected probably three times, but this thing burns so clean that I’ve never needed to clean it. And finally, regular greasing of the gearbox. Other than that, I’ve not had it break down or require repair.

Out of curiosity, I recently yanked the muffler off to inspect the bore and piston, both look almost new. Other than the initial fill from the dealer when I bought it, this unit has been run exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra. Just a word of warning, when shopping, there are two "HP" oils. The regular red HP is mineral based, and despite claims otherwise, I've found this stuff plugs up exhaust screens and exhaust ports in no time. The HP Ultra is fully synthetic and a murky green/brown colour.

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Being a fully synthetic 2-stroke oil, it's said to burn cleaner, which means less carbon deposits both inside and out of the engine. The lack of carbon keeps the muffler screen and exhaust port cleaner for longer, which means less maintenance and more performance. Stihl also suggests HP Ultra can clean the piston, crankcase and cylinder of engines ran on mineral based oil and fuel mixes. I have seen where it did indeed lightly remove carbon from an older engine, but it's probably better to start using it from the beginning of the engine's life. It's expensive, but that is balanced by reduced maintenance and longer machine life. There is a certain subset who don't like this oil, some even calling it muddy-water-fuel. But as far as I'm concerned, the proof is in the pudding.

I'm very much a numbers man, so this is a basic run down of what the 522L has cost me over the years, excluding fuel.

Purchase Price 2018 - $424.00 (in 2025, these retail for $679!!)
Air Filter – $19.50 (Filter and pre-filter)
Fuel Filter – $17.95 (OEM)
NGK BPMR8Y Spark Plug – $7.95
Speed Feed Head – $59.95
Head Bump Cap - $25.00
Grease - $3.00 (approx.)

TOTAL: $557.35 (AUD)

Considering the number of lawns it has been used on over the last 7 years, that total is miniscule. In addition to its reliability, I specifically love how light this machine is compared to every other straight-shaft trimmer on the market, just 4.2 kg where most start at 5.0 kg. The 522L also has an excellent anti-vibration system that cured the jitters I would get from previous trimmers. In both cases, I'd happily pay a premium for those benefits.

Anyway, I was looking at the 522 the other day and thought it was about time to remove the years' worth of grime that had accumulated.

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Another thing to admire with the 522L is how the majority of the exterior components can be removed independently. This is especially noticed on the starter, which can be removed for service via three T27's and without other pieces needing to come off the machine.

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Each piece was pre-soaked with Surfex HD at 1:1, then scrubbed in the parts washer, which has Surfex mixed at 4:1. The exception being the starter, which in an attempt to avoid oversaturating the recoil parts, I used compressed air first to remove the bulk of the grime. After each piece was scrubbed, I rinsed using clean water and applied Meg's Hyper Dressing.

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From there, I used compressed air, Surfex and the pressure washer to clean the engine assembly, shaft, gearbox and debris guard. The air filer on a trimmer never really need attention due to how the engine operates above the dust zone, so I just gave them a quick blow out.

It was then time to reassemble.........................

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Back to spec! Here's hoping I get another 7-years out of it. 🤞
 
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D.F.B

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I followed in my grandmother's footsteps in becoming a nurseryman.

For many years, nan worked for a nursery that was situated in the middle of town, which was within walking distance of the mall, banks, cafes and churches. It was a unique and unexpected gem that did well in that location as people would call in while downtown for other things. It was a drive through type business, ran by an extremely knowledgeable husband and wife duo from England. What he didn't know about horticulture wasn't worth knowing. My nan finished working for them in the late 80's, but we kept contact with them and the business. I was almost given a job by them.

In the mid 2000's, they built a brand-new retail nursery. The site chosen was on the same block as their home and was previously used to grow stock for the nursery in town. Even back then, they were in the later stages of their working life, so it was somewhat an odd move. Sadly, I think they lost a lot of foot traffic that they got from being in such a busy location. Still, they managed to make it work, even if the wife would rather her husband retired instead of starting a new venture.

Eventually, they sold the business and property to a local landscaping contractor. Knowing how the industry works, the new owners quickly realized that owning and running a nursery is different to being a landscaping business. In that I mean a 7-days a week business, and the fact each hour of trade generates far less income than the same time charged/earned for landscape construction. Margins on plants are thin too.

Over the last 6-years of my employment, I worked with a former employee of the above nursery. She and her sister had worked for the original owner for many years and had the relationships with the customer base. In short order, the carryover staff were being bullied, and within a year, staffing was cut. Remaining staff were expected to do more and more to the point of burnout. They eventually caused my former colleague to have a mental breakdown, that to this day she hasn't forgiven.

Back in March this year, the business was sold to a nursery that has a large retail and wholesale plant facility in a neighbouring town. The existing business had a clearance sale, then closed to allow the new owners to revamp and rebrand the site. The whole place was restocked with brand new plants across the board, then reopened to the public over the Easter weekend.

The new owners boldly signalled their intentions, in particular taking on the big green hardware store on price and quality. Now, as readers may remember from previous posts here, to match or even undercut Bunnings (think Home Depot) on price and make a profit is very difficult. So, they are either making no money on comparable plants, but relying on products not sold by Bunnings to make up the deficit. Or they are relying on high volume rather than high margin. Also, they have been making a lot of noise on social media about being a proud family business that proudly ONLY sells plants grown in the area. And this is where I can see right through them....................

- Over the opening weekend, I went and checked it out. They got a lot of feedback about the stock quality. Well, with little to no carry over, naturally the plant in stock were going to look fresh. But how will that look by the end of winter, after stock has weathered and aged?

- Some prices looked about right, some were indeed similar to Bunnings, some were lineball with my former employer. So, not entirely cheapest bar none.

- Growing plants locally means they are hardened to our conditions, be that summer warmth or winter cold. This also means you have a theoretical advantage in terms of survival. The thing is, I know for certain only a portion of their stock is locally grown. Several branded product lines are only grown by the one supplier.........................in Melbourne.

- They got a supply of bare rooted roses a month ago, which is by far too early in the season. This usually means the stock was sprayed with a defoliant to initiate an early "winter". This is NOT ideal as there is the possibility of these plants re-shooting mid-winter and fresh growth burnt by frost. But actually, they posted a clip of rose plants dug out and bare rooted in full leave and flower! That is NOT a plant hardened for local conditions.

- They also claim those roses were locally grown. There are NO rose growers in this area, stock would have come out of Melbourne or South Australia.

- On the opening weekend, they were heavily promoting a range of super-advanced indoor plants. And you guessed it, locally grown. Again, there are NO indoor plant growers in this area, in fact quite a lot of indoor stock comes out of Sydney where it grows faster and stronger due to more stable temperatures.

- And quite a number of those indoor plants were very intolerant to the cool conditions of this area, which can affect plants grown indoors more than you would think.

- Then there was the post about an influx of new season Camellias. And you guessed it, apparently locally grown. No.

- Or the certain line of citrus plants (that were thin and spindly when I looked at them) which are only available through a Sydney grower.

To the average consumer, they wouldn't know any of the above, or that they are being lied to. All that is hidden behind the whole 'proud family business' thing, and in effect, having pride in undermining the integrity of the industry and its ability to make selling plants a profitable concern. Not that I'm religious, but isn't pride a sin?
 

Sifan

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Jul 10, 2018
Messages
580
Location
Southern Illinois
Share your pain on loaning, got in trouble at work because I embarrassed a co worker in front of others by saying "HELL NO you can't borrow my garden tiller, you never returned it from the last time you borrowed it and that was 7 months ago"
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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Australia
This would have to be the most used and abused machine I have, a Stihl BG86C converted to a SH86C vacuum.

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While it started life as a leaf blower, which ran for many years until it mysteriously locked up. That meant the immediate purchase of a brand new one blower and the old one sidelined. This unit sat in the shed for several years before, by chance, I discovered the issue where the crankcase bolts wind out over time and prevent the flywheel from turning. With those bolts nipped up, I suddenly had two BG86’s. Being the older of the two, I converted the repaired unit to permanent vacuum duty.

Using vacuum mode is not easy on these machines. First, you have a lot of junk being drawn into and flung out of the impeller. They do make a blade attachment that bolts onto the crankshaft in front of the impeller, of which I have a couple lying around somewhere but never bothered to fit them.

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You also have the weight of the intake tube, outlet tube and bag that bears down on the impeller cover. In fact, I had cracks develop and eventually blew through the side of the cover, which was replaced by a used part I tracked down on eBay.

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Then there is the dust created by lifting material from the ground and into the bag, as opposed to blowing it away from the machine. Naturally, this is hard on the air filters. The dust also gets into every part of the machine, no doubt contributing to the failure of the ignition switch and wiring loom.

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So yeah, this BG86C has had a hard life in my hands. Which brings me to today and the replacement of the bag. I actually had two of these vacuum kits, which would have been handy today, but I have no idea where the other one is. So off I went to the Stihl dealer, and for a change, they had what I needed in stock!

Stihl Part Number – 42297089701

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/ap/vacuum-blower-bag-1620

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These 45-litre “dust reducing” bags are a dual layer design that helps surpass dust without impeding airflow. On the outside is a finely woven canvas-type material, with the inner lining being a woven plastic not unlike plastic weed mat or garden waste bags. On mine, the inner material was breaking down at the inlet of the bag, which was preventing efficient airflow and causing it to block.

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Being peak leaf collecting season, having the vacuum function correctly is crucial to the time saving potential of the unit. I also use it to clean up hedge clippings or removing debris from stone-mulched garden beds.
 
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D.F.B

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Australia
The XR8 was let out of captivity on the weekend, and boy did she love the crisp winter air! In such conditions, this is a car that you need to hand on for dear life, especially when you have full traction and the torque limiting is unleased from third gear onward.

Of course, the side benefit of having the car out…………………………. I get to wash it!

The wheels were cleaned with Reset, tyres with Brake Buster. I then rinsed the whole car thoroughly before moving back into the garage for a rinse-less wash. Product of choice, Opti-Coat No Rinse. I keep forgetting how good this product is, if you like a slick feel during and after, look no further.


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Originally, this product was only available from Opti-Coat installers as part of an exclusive maintenance range. In addition to the lack of availability, it carries a premium price tag and only comes in 473ml / 16-oz bottles. So, its clearly not for everyone, but its pure joy to use.

As you can see, I carried the Optimum/Opti-Coat theme going. The Gloss Enhancer was lightly used as a drying aid, less is more with that product. While Opti-No-Rinse is brilliantly slick on its own, I wanted to see how the two products played together. The excellent Glass Clean and Protect finished off the exterior glass.



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Some Clean Maker went on the wheels, the tyres got a layer of OG Tire Dressing. Back to DFB spec, the XR8 was moved back into its spot and covered up for another day.
 
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D.F.B

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I recently put the Mustang’s Performance Pack wheels up for sale. These wheels have been sitting in storage gathering dust since they were removed from the vehicle in October last year. At one point I was going to ceramic coat them, but considering I had no intention of refitting them to the car, I just couldn’t see the point. I’m also considering a wheel change at some point, so they had to go.

I will admit, they can look fantastic, but its only a brief moment.

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Selling S550 and S650 Performance Pack wheels is difficult, just check out the usual selling platforms to see what I mean. Most people remove them from their Mustang for the same reasons I have, as in they are too fussy looking and a pain to clean. Thankfully, earlier this week I had lady willing to come look at them. To maximise my chance of selling the wheels, I thought I’d better make sure the potential buyer had every reason to buy them, make them stand out from the crowd.

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Despite being cleaned before storage, the wheels and tyres were dusty from sitting for so long. All they needed was a quick hose off, but that’s not me. For the tyres, I actually cleaned not only the sidewall, but the tread as well, you can see why in the image below. The wheels were then given a quick once over with a brush. Both wheel and tyre were cleaned with foamed Brake Buster.

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Clean, I then went ahead and applied Hydr02, then blew dry with the EGO. The sidewalls had some sort of white residue, so I needed to break out the Tarminator.

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From here, I finished off the drying with a wipe down using ADS Amplify. For the tyres, I applied a light layer of OG Tire Dressing, then buffed flat using a towel.

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This morning, the buyer arrived with her husband to look at the wheels, both being true Ford guys. I think they were a little shell shocked by the garage and the metal parked in there, the XR8 in particular. They came in separate cars, a clear sign they were buying today. The lady arrived in an S550 EcoBoost Hardtop in Magnetic grey. These came from the factory with a square 9-inch wide wheel with 255/40/R19 tyres. Fitting GT Performance Pack wheels to an EcoBoost takes the rears to 9.5-inch wide and 275/40/R19 tyres, the front’s remain the same. After a quick look over, I got what I was asking for wheels and they were loaded into the husbands V8 Patrol. They had an appointment to have them fitted at the local Bob Jane.

I mention all that because THIS is how you buy something. None of the pointless messages asking “is this still available”, I swear the next person who asks that is going to be hunted down and brutally murdered! Or messages asking about the item, then discovered where it’s located AFTER wasting my time, followed by “oh, I might come on the weekend”………………..no, “might” doesn’t work for me, you either want it not. I had one potential buyer wanting me to just sell him the wheels, um…………….no, I’m not paying to have the tyres removed so that you can get a discount, they are sold AS IS!

In this case, the buyer wasn’t lazy, as in didn’t hit the auto-generated “is this still available” bullsh.t. Instead, a simple “I’m interested in having a look at these wheels”. We then agreed on a time and day, everything was respectful and pleasant. Maybe the price I was asking weeded out the riff raff? In any case, because of the respect, I sent her more photos of them being detailed, then made sure they were presented properly when they arrived. I even threw in a couple of un-used detailing products. I have my money, and they have a virtually brand-new set of wheels and tyres for their Mustang. I also got to talk to two enthusiasts.

Now? What will I spend the money on?
 
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Mark_17

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I like those wheels, but I completely respect moving on to something easier to clean.

My BMW M2 came with 930m wheels and they're a nightmare to clean-
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Now I put M4 wheels on it, and they're even worse lmao but boy do I love the look -
shopping


The spokes aren't connected to the inner barrel, which means you need to clean the "lip" that is between the spokes and the inner barrel. Not to mention the incredibly dusty pads BMW put on these from the factory.
 

Geoff289

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Nov 10, 2013
Messages
1,207
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I mention all that because THIS is how you buy something. None of the pointless messages asking “is this still available”, I swear the next person who asks that is going to be hunted down and brutally murdered! Or messages asking about the item, then discovered where it’s located AFTER wasting my time, followed by “oh, I might come on the weekend”………………..no, “might” doesn’t work for me, you either want it not. I had one potential buyer wanting me to just sell him the wheels, um…………….no, I’m not paying to have the tyres removed so that you can get a discount, they are sold AS IS!

In this case, the buyer wasn’t lazy, as in didn’t hit the auto-generated “is this still available” bullsh.t. Instead, a simple “I’m interested in having a look at these wheels”
You've had a rare good experience using FBM to get rid of something you don't need. I've used it a lot over the past several months, mostly to deal with my late Mum's furniture and other household stuff, and have just had to **** up the reality that for every genuinely interested prospective buyer there are 10 time wasters and amateur grifters. With most of the stuff I've advertised a 20-30 minute drive away it just added to the irritation generated by a no show.

That said, I recently used it again to off load the ladder rack I had for my sorely missed old truck The Eyesore.


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As has become my practice, I emphasised in the ad that I wouldn't respond to any availability questions, and that the price was firm. Of course, the "Is it available" messages started almost immediately. After ignoring a few I wondered if I might be cutting off my nose to spite my face with this strategy so the next one I just said "Yep" in reply, Almost immediately a positive and respectful conversation followed leading to the guy coming when he said he would, handing over the advertised price and taking it away with a smile on his face. A sale I would have missed by persisting with ignoring the annoying message.

So it just goes to show.
 
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D.F.B

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I like those wheels, but I completely respect moving on to something easier to clean.

My BMW M2 came with 930m wheels and they're a nightmare to clean-
197345872.jpg

Now I put M4 wheels on it, and they're even worse lmao but boy do I love the look -
shopping

The Performance Pack wheels did indeed look stunning when freshly detailed, likewise the BMW wheels you have. But as you well know, the effect is short lived.

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The spokes aren't connected to the inner barrel, which means you need to clean the "lip" that is between the spokes and the inner barrel. Not to mention the incredibly dusty pads BMW put on these from the factory.

My sisters Volvo XC60 has a similar arrangement, brake dust and the inner lip that runs behind the spokes makes cleaning a challenge. I end up having to give them the full nuclear bomb treatment every time I clean them. If I had access to the car more often, I'd ceramic coat them to make the job quicker and easier. But she lives in an apartment 3 hours away.

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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
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You've had a rare good experience using FBM to get rid of something you don't need. I've used it a lot over the past several months, mostly to deal with my late Mum's furniture and other household stuff, and have just had to **** up the reality that for every genuinely interested prospective buyer there are 10 time wasters and amateur grifters. With most of the stuff I've advertised a 20-30 minute drive away it just added to the irritation generated by a no show.

That said, I recently used it again to off load the ladder rack I had for my sorely missed old truck The Eyesore.


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As has become my practice, I emphasised in the ad that I wouldn't respond to any availability questions, and that the price was firm. Of course, the "Is it available" messages started almost immediately. After ignoring a few I wondered if I might be cutting off my nose to spite my face with this strategy so the next one I just said "Yep" in reply, Almost immediately a positive and respectful conversation followed leading to the guy coming when he said he would, handing over the advertised price and taking it away with a smile on his face. A sale I would have missed by persisting with ignoring the annoying message.

So it just goes to show.

Facebook Marketplace is a hit and miss situation. I've only recently started using to purge excess stuff I no longer use or need. Some interactions have been good, as outlined above, some have been almost not worth the hassle.

The main gripe I have centres around the fact that people don't think before making contact. As in, checking when the item was listed and where the item is located. Asking "is this still available" 3-minutes after the item was listed is idiotic. Or wasting time asking questions, ask when they can come get it, only to then realise they'd have to make 4-hour round trip to get it. Like, use your brain................although that implies the person has a brain to start with!

The second sticking point probably reflects on me rather than the potential buyer. I'm a very literal, black and white type of person. So when someone says they might be interested in what I'm selling, it's a case of you either do or don't want it, not maybe. Also, if the person says they'll be there at a specific day and time, then I kinda expect them to make that happen. Not maybe I'll come on Saturday or being 45-minutes late. Maybe I expect too much?

At the risk of being labeled racist, but it's just the reality of the situation, but almost all of the silly dealings I've had on FBM centre around certain ethnic groups. I'll leave it at that.
 

kitdoctor

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Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
484
Location
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Speaking of chainsaws...

My father-in-law passed this 010AV onto me fitted with a new chain. I think they made these between 1978-82????? I've never had one before or used one, so I figure it's a good start. I've used it three times in recent weeks, twice dealing with my neighbours' tree branches and bamboo culms that have fallen over fences.

9 Azalea Court - North West Corner - Sawn Branch No. 1.jpg
 

kitdoctor

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Oct 30, 2010
Messages
484
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This was actually on the to-do list waaaay back in September last year. Someone borrowed my beloved pressure washer without asking, then returned it covered in mud…………..and no apology.
That *****.

Anyway, the day I was going to return the pressure washer to DFB-spec, my Dad decided he would borrow it as well……………………………. I only got it back on Monday, 9-months later!
That ***** even more.
 
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D.F.B

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Speaking of chainsaws...

My father-in-law passed this 010AV onto me fitted with a new chain. I think they made these between 1978-82????? I've never had one before or used one, so I figure it's a good start. I've used it three times in recent weeks, twice dealing with my neighbours' tree branches and bamboo culms that have fallen over fences.

9 Azalea Court - North West Corner - Sawn Branch No. 1.jpg

Those 010AV's were based on the 009L, the main difference being they adapted it to fit an anti-vibration system. The 009L is renowned for being a stout, reliable and long lived. They don't scream like other saws, but have excellent torque for cutting through hardwood. You have a gem.
 
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Spent some time cleaning and protecting the XR6's steering wheel today. Having not opted for leather trim, the steering wheel is the only leather inside the car. The gear selector, selector gate and handbrake boot don't count, they are vinyl.

Today, I only needed ColourLock Mild Leather Cleaner with the ColourLock brush, Strong Leather Cleaner would have been overkill.

https://www.colourlockaustralia.com...ir/car-clean-care/leather-cleaning-brush.html
https://www.colourlockaustralia.com...r-clean-care/mild-leather-cleaner-125-ml.html

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Once wiped dry, two layers of ColourLock Leather Protector was applied with a sponge.

https://www.colourlockaustralia.com...ean-care-repair/car-clean-care/sponges-3.html
https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.../car-clean-care/leather-protector-150-ml.html

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The condition of the selector gate and hand brake boot are showing age now, having developed cracks in the material. At some point, I probably should replace them but I'm apprehensive about tearing the console apart to deal with it. For now, I cleaned them with Mild Leather Cleaner, then followed with ColourLock Artificial Leather Protector.

https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-vinyl-protector.html
 
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D.F.B

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@D.F.B that's good to hear. I can see it satisfying our needs for quite awhile.

At some stage, I must tell you about our second hand brush cutter and push mower.

Please do! It makes no logical sense, but love the emotional connection between man and machine.
 
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D.F.B

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Hands On The Wheel – Cleaning Your Steering Wheel

I like a clean steering wheel! However, keeping a steering wheel perfectly clean is a never ending battle.

Pretty much anything we get or put on our hands will end up on the steering wheel. The most obvious contamination factor would be the natural oils that the body produces to keep our skin hydrated. But there are multiple other factors that contribute to a dirty steering wheel..................

- Hand sanitizer
- Soap residues
- Moisturizers
- Makeup (yes, this is a thing)
- Food and beverage residue (especially greasy food)
- Dirt and grease
- Nicotine residue
- Sweat

So, the steering wheel of your car can be subjected to quite a lot! In fact, you don’t know just how dirty your steering wheel is until you start to clean it. But why should we even care about this? Because the substances mentioned above will degrade the material over time, be that leather, plastic or Alcantara. In some instances, it can be a health hazard too. And most importantly for me, a dirty steering wheel is unsightly and feel gross to handle.

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Steering Wheel Material’s and How to Clean Them

There are three main types of steering wheel; plastic, leather and Alcantara, or a combination of those materials…………………and no, those revolting lambs wool steering wheel covers will NOT be counted here. The following is how to take a neglected wheel back to a clean state, then how to maintain it.

Plastic Steering Wheels –

Plastic is probably not the official term for these wheels, but what I'm referencing here is a wheel that is not wrapped with a textile such as leather, suede or Alcantara. Typically found on base models, they seem to be less and less common. While they are seemingly cheap and nasty, a plastic steering wheel is the easiest to deal with.

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Deep Cleaning –

1. For this job, I like to use one of those Scrub Ninja pads and a dedicated interior cleaner.

2. Apply the product to the scrub pad (or brush) and agitate until the product lathers up. Wipe clean with a towel.

3. Inspect and repeat if necessary.

4. Apply an interior protectant (optional)

Maintenance –

From here, after each wash simply wipe down the wheel with your interior detailer or rinse-less wash of choice.

Key Tools and Products –

- Interior Cleaner (KCx Pol Star, P&S Xpress, Carpro Inside)
- Brush or Scrub Pad
- Interior Protectant (Optional) (303 Protectant, KCx Top Star, Carpro Perl)
- Interior Detailer or rinse-less wash (Maintenance) (Carpro InnerQD, KCx ASC, ONR, Absolute)
- Interior Towels

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Alcantara & Suede Materials –

Traditionally, these materials were used on race cars to provide a more secure grip with gloved hands. However, they have become increasingly popular over the last decade, and personally, I’m not a fan. Alcantara is a trademarked name that car companies need pay to use, so certain car companies may get around that by calling it suede, micro-suede, Race-Tex ect. Treatment is the same though. While the material is tougher than you’d think, cleaning Alcantara isn’t a quick process and requires patience and a specific technique.

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Deep Cleaning -

The key with any fabric cleaning is not necessarily the product used, but removing the product afterwards. Compared to leather, you can’t simply wipe away the chemical residue.

1. For Alcantara, you will need a medium stiffness brush and a dedicated fabric cleaner such as KCx Pol Star (spray or foam) or Sonax Alcantara & Upholstery Cleaner (foaming).

2. Apply product into the bristles of the brush, this is where the foaming Sonax product is king.

3. Lightly agitate the material. The key is to not oversaturate as you will make the next step harder.

4. Take a damp towel and lightly rub the material. The goal is to draw the cleaner-dirt emulsion from the fibres and into the towel. Repeat multiple times.

5. Take a dry towel and repeat the step 4.

From here, you can either use a brush or vacuum to fluff the fibres. If you have a steamer, this can be helpful during step 4 as it seems to flush the product out of the fibres without oversaturating the material.

Maintenance –

In this instance, a damp towel is all you need. Fully saturate a microfiber towel and wring it out fully until just damp. Lightly wipe over the material with the damp towel, then follow with a try towel. If needed, you can use a medium stiffness brush lightly fluff up the fibres.

Key Tools and Products -

- Fabric cleaner (Sonax Alcantara & Upholstery Cleaner, KCx Pol Star)
- Interior Towels (At least 2)
- Medium stiffness interior brush
- Steamer (optional)

It’s been a long time since I’ve had to clean and maintain these materials, so no photos. This video is an excellent reference –



Leather Materials -

Leather steering wheels are the most common in the automotive industry. The material offers a blend of grip, softness and durability. However, it is also the most prone to holding grime and ultimately turning shiny over time. The key thing to remember with leather is that when clean, it should NOT be shiny or greasy. It can have a light sheen depending on the material chosen by the car manufacturer, but never glossy.

Deep Cleaning -

To really strip back the grime that has accumulated over time, you need to be somewhat persistent. You often won’t remove it all in one go, you have to strip back the layers so to speak.

1. Start by applying a leather cleaner into the bristles of medium stiffness leather brush.

2. Using light pressure, begin agitating the leather surface.

3. Wipe the residue away

4. Inspect, repeat the process if needed.

5. Once you are happy with the finish, you can then apply a protectant using a sponge or microfiber applicator.

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Even if the wheel isn’t filthy, its good practice to do the above on an occasional basis. However, you may not need the same level of aggression in terms of product selection and number of passes.

Maintenance –

Once clean and protected, its just a matter of wiping the wheel after each wash with an interior detailer, rinse-less wash or even just a damp towel. It’s this regularity that prevents the need for a sledgehammer approach.

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Key Tools and Products -

- Leather Cleaner (ColourLock Strong or Mild Leather Cleaner, Koch Chemie Pol Star, P&S Xpress, NV Cleanse, Bowden’s Leather Love)
- Leather Brush or Scrub Pad (ColourLock Brush, Maxshine Leather Brush, TRC VLB, Carpro InnerScrub)
- Interior Towels
- Interior Detailer/Rinse-less Wash (Maintenance)(Carpro InnerQD, ONR)
- Leather Conditioner (ColourLock Leather Shield or Protector, NV Nourish, Bowden’s Leather Guard)
- Microfiber Applicator

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Carbon Fibre, Piano Black & Woodgrain (real or otherwise) -

Steering wheels aren’t fully covered in these materials, rather they are used as an accent. In reality, you are dealing with a glossy plastic surface, which warrants separate treatment.

To clean and maintain these surfaces, I would use a plusher towel with rinse-less wash or quick detailer. If needed, clean with an interior cleaner first, then follow with a quick detailer. You can apply a coating to these surfaces, but I probably wouldn’t do this.

Key Tools and Products -

- Plush Interior towels (TRC Eagle or Creature for example)
- Quick Detailer or rinse-less wash (P&S Paint Gloss, ONR, Absolute, ADS Adapt)
- Interior Cleaner (if needed) (P&S Xpress, ADS Pilot)

AU-II-FAIRMONT-GHIA-WITH-OPTIONAL-SAT-NAV.jpg

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Case Study -

Whenever I drive my father's car, or after he drives mine, I can't help but notice how sticky and greasy the steering wheel feels. Being a smoker, I can only assume it's the nicotine on his hands being transferred to the steering wheel.

This is how the wheel looked straight off the showroom floor………………….

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On this car, the funk is so ingrained that it's a challenge to remove, even with the best tools and chemicals at my disposal. Starting with ColourLock Strong Leather Cleaner, the wheel is lightly scrubbed with the ColourLock brush. After wiping the residue, quite often the shiny and stickiness remains. This means the leather is still dirty, and/or abraded and effectively polished by my father's hands.

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In fact, it's at the point now that I end up removing dye when using a brush and a strong leather cleaner in attempting to remove the shiny, greasy look and feel. So, the material has been compromised. At the risk of inflicting more damage, I have to be content in giving it a wipe down with an interior cleaner and calling it good.

Then there are occasions where leather has been abraded over many years, which is typically shown by lighter patches where the dye has been removed. In these situations, you also need to be careful not to make the situation worse when attempting to clean the steering wheel. Ultimately, this is where you move from leather cleaning to leather restoration, which is another level of skill.

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Tips, Tricks & Observations -

- Be mindful of the buttons! You want to avoid oversaturating with product around these areas.

- Over the Covid period, alcohol-based hand sanitizers were contributing to accelerated wear on leather steering wheels, one company was even refusing warranty replacement over this issue.

- Don’t be a wheel shuffler. Not only does it transfer more skin oils, but if you are a tradesman or someone who works with their hands, the skin on your hands will be rougher, which acts like an abrasive. Jewellery will do the same.

- Regular wipe downs are key. After each wash, the interior gets a quick wipe over with an interior detailer, steering wheel included. This prevents the build-up that happens over time.

- If you do need a sledgehammer to cut through years of neglect, a Ninja Scrub Pad or the Carpro InnerScrub teamed with a leather or interior cleaner will be a real timer saver over a brush. Just do a test spot first as these are more abrasive than brushes.

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- Some leather materials have a slight natural shine, the key is to know this before hammering down on a shiny steering wheel. A slight sheen is normal here, a mirror finish shine is not.

- In the past, I’ve read comments regarding the use of leather protection and conditioning products not being suitable for steering wheels. The concept being you make the wheel slippery and a potential hazard. Hmmm, ok……………………….not if you are doing it properly.

- With the previous point in mind, this is a case of what NOT to do. Notice how much gloss is going on here, that’s because I loaded the wheel up with an old-school leather balm that is designed to be slick and glossy for maximum before and after effect. Don’t do this, in fact, this is where the slip hazard comments comes from. From memory, I used Auto Glym Leather Care Balm or Meguiar’s Gold Class Rich Leather, both are junk.

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- And finally, I’ll be flamed for saying this, but……………………stop eating and drinking in your car! Frankly, I have no idea why its ok to eat and drive at the same time, yet the use of electronic devises and loud music isn’t. All are distractions! Focus on driving, eat and drink when you get to where you are going.

Final Thoughts -

Quite often, the steering wheel of a car will show wear and tear much quicker than other parts of the vehicle. So, with that in mind, the goal is to prevent or minimize this wear, in turn making it nicer to use but also help with resale value once trade in time arrives.

Clean, protected and ready for the road!

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D.F.B

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Buyer - "Hi, is this available?"

:mad:

Buyer - "............pick up tomorrow"

Me - ".........what time tomorrow are you thinking?" (notice that I use at least some form of correct grammar)

12-hours of crickets........................

Buyer - "Today will let you the time soon"

Buyer - "Where is your location"

Me - provided location.

Buyer - "All Good too far"

:mad: :mad: :rant::rant::mad::mad:

Like, for fu.ks sake, wouldn't you take a look at the location before making contact? It's both listed in the written description and as part of the ad format. Granted, I screened the buyer first and could see he was in Sydney, so in a way, I played him too.

I really dislike stupid people.
 
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This is how I detail a mower.......................


The test subject was my Victa Mustang 750iS with the battery powered push-button start. With that in mind, I removed the battery and made sure to tape up the connections before starting.

In this case, I used Shine Supply Wise Guy, but I've used P&S Brake Buster and Bilt Hamber Surfex HD in the past as well. In other words, an alkaline degreaser to target oil, dirt and grease.

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Once clean and while the mower is still wet, applied Hydr02 and rinsed immediately to distribute. Hydr02 is great for this sort of thing because it means you don't need to access every nook and cranny, the stream of water does that for you. Following that, a misting of Meguiar's Hyper Dressing to make it pop!

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A blow down with the EGO and a quick wipe, the job was done. If I wasn't filming, this process would take me less than 5 minutes.

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Just note that I'm not doing this on a weekly basis, its an occasional thing to keep the mower looking nice. Considering the mower is now 3-years old, I think this method is working well.
 
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On Tuesday, I went to place an order with Waxit to take advantage of the EOFY sale. I only needed to restock a couple of favorites, but it got out of hand.............................

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I'd been looking for a new 3-inch polisher for a while now, but nothing really delivered what I wanted. I already had the EB351 3-inch, but its just too bulky for a 3-inch. The Rupes LHR 75 (pneumatic) is brilliant, but you have to be in the mood to use it as you are back to managing a cord/hose. The Rupes HLR75 I really didn't like when I sampled it last year, its super grindy and noisy. The Flex PXE80 is compromised, too small for a 3-inch, too big for 1-inch. The Mirka AROP-B is way too expensive.

And so, I arrived at the ShineMate EB212. This is arguably the Goldilocks of 3-inch polishers, a blend of size, performance and price. A full overview and review to follow.
 
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Stepping back in time for this post..............................

The very first car I ever drove was my fathers EB II Falcon GLi wagon in about 2000. That Falcon was well worn out by that stage, so I guess he felt safe letting me loose in the thing. I would drive that car around the workshop yard, getting all of the teenage boy stuff out of my system before getting my learners permit. I remember having a VERY close call with an steel I-beam, I had the thing sideways then panicked and slammed on the brakes to miss the beam by something like 5mm. THAT right there was the moment I knew I could do damage to a car and myself by being stupid. I fear so many young drivers never get that out of their system before they get a licence.

In addition to driving around the work yard, Dad would take me waaaay out of town onto the gravel back roads, then swap seats. This is how I learnt to drive before even getting a learner permit. In addition to the old Falcon, I would drive a 1993 Mitsubishi Triton, also on the company fleet. Well, this is that very vehicle, still rattling around and still owned by the company......................

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This car was bought brand new in 1993 and replaced an 80's Triton. This model continued in production until the mid 2000's. Actually, they bought another Triton to replace this one. You might think the paint looks ok for such an age, but its been repainted a few times, the tray and racking was also built by the company.

This was the first car I got to experience a manual transmission. Let me paint a picture here..................no power steering, no power brakes, no assisted clutch. Yeah, the steering was a *******, but the lack of assistance on the clutch made it suuuper easy to feel the bite point. In fact, it probably ruined me for other cars because I quickly got the hang of how to drive a manual in this old thing.

At the same time, Mum had a first gen Subaru Forrester, in manual because Dad didn't want to pay for the automatic. Side note, he did pay the extra money to have a dealer fitted CD player, which in 1997 was quite fancy. But what an absolute ******* of car that was, the clutch gave no feedback at all and tended to engage right at the top of the travel. I've driven other manual Subaru's and they were the same. Even with decades of manual driving experience, I can still easily stall a Subaru. Dad loved that Subaru for some reason, it became his daily driver for a while too. I hated it, mainly due to having to ride in the back of it with ZERO leg room and a rock-hard seat. Compared to the Falcon Wagon with its long wheelbase and super comfortable rear seats, the Forrester was not a family car in my opinion. Combined with the gutless 2.0 engine, I never liked it...................and thrashed the guts out of it whenever no one was looking. :ROFLMAO:
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Back to the Triton, I have great memories driving that old thing. Let's be clear here, in no way is it an exciting thing to pilot. The steering was brutal, the engine made a lot of noise but didn't really produce anything meaningful. The gearbox was sloppy, the brakes needed to be stood on to pull the vehicle up. But for a teenage boy, my god it was FUN! You could pretty much drive the thing flat out everywhere and not break the speed limit. We'd also take it camping, where a mate and I would take turns driving it to collect firewood. On one Easter camping trip, some fool even thought it would be good to use the tray to launch fireworks off..................which ended up putting burn marks on the roof, highly illegal but a legendary story.

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I also used this vehicle to start my business. At the time, Dad had been daily driving this vehicle, so I would swap my Fairmont for the Triton, do my mowing run, then swap back. Even my sister learnt to drive in this car.

The interior shot reveals a relatively low 283,000 km, but trust me, its lived a HARD life. I should know, I thrashed the guts out of it for quite a while. However, the bulk of its life has been spent delivering building materials, steel, concreate, gas bottles.................you name it. The seat has been retrimmed a few times as well, and take note of those handles on the door, those are used to manually wind the windows down...................... ;)

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(Oh, and I think this vehicle has had a roll of duct tape in it for its whole life! :ROFLMAO: )

The engine is super rattly now, but to be truthful, it always was. For whatever reason, the business continued to pay rego and insurance on this thing, I guess it still comes in handy................but I suspect there is a little sentimentality going on as well.

So there you have it. I might have a few flash cars now, but this car is part of my driving genesis. Seeing it again this morning brought back a lot of good memories.
 
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Gave the petrol-powered saw fleet a workout today. I love the convenience of my battery powered MSA140C, and to be truthful, it's what I grab the most. However, I still think there is a place for a noisy 2-stroke chainsaw. I don't get a chance to use these as much as I'd like, so running them every now is probably wise.

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I actually gave the 028 and MS271 a little carb tweak. Since new, the 271 has been a little grumpy at idle and would often stall until fully warmed up, and even then, there was some slight hesitation and the occasional stall. So, once warmed up, I opened up the low-speed screw just a hair, and bingo, a stable idle and much faster transition from idle to full speed.

On the 028, while the LA (idle) speed was fine, I found it needed just a little more on the low speed to allow it to idle for an extended period. As for the 009L, it seems to be over fueling, which is problem compounded by the fact this carb doesn't have a high-speed adjustment. I'm not sure where to go with this, perhaps the diaphragms are not functioning as they should and allowing too much fuel to be delivered. Being 24 years old, it's never had any carb work done to it, so I suspect it needs kit or a brand-new carb.
 
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ShineMate EB212 3-inch Polisher Overview & Review

At the end of 2020, I made the move to battery powered polishers. Previous to this, I had been using a single dual action polisher kit that was purchased from Waxit back in 2010. This was essentially an entry level 12mm dual action polisher fitted with a 6-inch backing plate and came with an assortment of Menzerna compounds and Lake Country CSS Flat foam pads.

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Waxit still offer these kits via the ShineMate brand, which are an excellent starting point as they include everything you need to get up and running. Being a smaller machine, they are more approachable for the beginner.

Shop The Waxit Enthusiast Polishing Kit! | Waxit Car Care
Shop The Shinemate EX605 Polishing Kit! | Waxit Car Care

To coincide with the Black Friday sales in 2020, Waxit launched the all-new ShineMate EB351 range of cordless battery powered polishers. This included a 12mm 3-inch, 12mm 5-inch, 15mm 5-inch and a 21mm 6-inch machines. There was also a 5- and 6-inch rotary. Each could be purchased as a skin, or via a machine/battery/charger kit. Batteries and chargers could also be purchased separately.

What sold me on these battery powered ShineMate’s was the price and availability. Back then, Rupes had only the one battery polisher, the micro iBrid Nano. The major tool brands only sold large rotary polishers. Flex was the only brand to offer a full suite of battery powered polishers in micro, mini and full size machines. But the price of those Flex polishers was astronomically high in Australia. For perspective, a single Flex 5-inch machine with a charger and battery would buy you two ShineMate’s, 4-batteries, a two-bay charger, and enough change left over to buy a carry case. As the years went on and more and more competitors joined the battery powered scene, Flex have be forced to lower their prices……………………which to me is too little, too late.

Being a Chinese manufactured brand, the big gamble for the early adopters was how these ShineMates would fair against a German made Flex, or even the Italian/American made Rupes. Frankly, the ShineMate brand has enough runs on the board now that I don’t think there is even a question that these machines have the ability to go head-to-head with the establish pro-level brands. In fact, with what I have been told and seen, Rupes has fallen behind on technology, quality and reliability. They were once the leaders, now they are simply the followers. ShineMate on the other hand are faster to market, are innovating and producing highly reliable polishers that are proving themselves within the professional market. It’s telling when a life-long Rupes user says he’s lost faith in the brand, be that from a quality/reliability standpoint, but also the high asking prices.

So, back to 2020. I was wanting to add a smaller 3-inch machine to my artillery and determined I wanted to go battery powered. Rupes were nowhere in this space, and the Flex offering outrageously priced. Then the ShineMate EB351’s hit the market and immediately became my target. Once the Black Friday sales kicked in, I ended up not only buying the EB351 3-inch kit, but I also added the larger EB351 15mm 5-inch to the order. When the package turned up, for some reason I managed to score two additional batteries, something I was not going to complain about!

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On first impression, the machines looked good and felt well made. In use, I quickly fell in love with the lack of a cord to manage. I also found them more ergonomic compared to the corded machine I was using, steering the unit with my right hand around the head, then supporting the base with my left hand. Battery life was excellent, weight balance superb. And having access to a 3-inch unit took my machine polishing to the next level. Operationally, the ShineMate’s do have quite a bit of chatter when winding down, but that’s relatively common with dual action machines anyway.

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Over time though, I found there were some limitations to the 3-inch version of the EB351. For starters, it seemed to lack the torque and top speed potential of the 5-inch machine. But it’s the physical size of the machine that counts against it most. In this instance, both 3- and 5-inch EB351’s share the same body, which means the size of the 3-inch is too big, and therefore cumbersome for dealing with more intricate areas. In fact, ShineMate addressed this issue by releasing a smaller bodied EB350 3-inch with a different battery orientation slimmer 2.5ah battery.

ShineMate EB350 3" | Dual Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care

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I did toy with the idea of replacing the EB351 for the EB350, but hesitated. I also looked at the Rupes HLR-75, which has become known as the “stiletto” due to its unique shape. In fact, I almost ordered one but again hesitated. Late last year I had the chance to sample the Rupes and was left disappointed, it was way too noisy and very grindy. On that same day, I was made aware that ShineMate had something new in the pipeline, and reading between the lines, I suspected it would be a more compact 3-inch along the same lines of what they did with the micro EB210. A few months later, the EB212 hit the market…………………………….

ShineMate EB212 | Mini Dual Action Cordless Polisher – Waxit Car Care


Fast forward to this week and the Waxit EOFY sale, I took the plunge..............

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ShineMate EB212 Overview & Specs -

Spec wise, the EB212 is a 12mm dual action polisher with a 3-inch backing plate. It’s powered by ShineMate’s 10.8-volt system that also supports the smaller EB210 and is available with 2.5 and 5.0 ah batteries. ShineMate put a high importance on NVH, to the point where this is the brands smoothest and quietest running polisher. They also worked hard on delivering a high torque machine, in turn improving cutting performance. And compared to the earlier EB350 and EB351, the new EB212 is much better sized for the 3-inch backing plate.

Some key specs –

- Light weight
- Smooth trigger action
- Double tap trigger lock
- High efficiency brushless motor
- 6 speed settings
- 50 min charging time (2.5 ah battery)
- 30 to 40 min run time (speed dependant)
- 24-month Enthusiast Warranty (tool)
- 12-month battery/charger Warranty

The EB212 can be purchased as a skin, or in kit form that includes the following –

- EB212 Skin
- 2.5 ah 10.8v Battery x1
- Single port 10.8v Charger
- 2 ShineMate Diamond Pads (red and blue)
- ShineMate Padded Case

In my case, I purchased the kit with an additional 5.0 ah battery. In the future, I can then add the EB210 skin.

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On first acquaintance, the first thing you notice is how nicely sized the unit is, not too big like the EB350/351, not to small like the Flex PXE80 or EB210 with the 3-inch backing plates. The 212 has a very balanced feel with reassuring heft, with the smaller/lighter battery allowing for more control in tighter areas, while the larger 5.0 ah battery balances the weight of the head. Overall, the unit feels well made, the padded case neatly presented.

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But it’s the operational characteristics of the EB212 that really set it apart. It’s just sooooo smooth and quiet running, and that’s on any of the 6 speed settings too. The unit is powered up by the press of a button, likewise changing the speed settings. The trigger is switch-like in action and not variable, however its easy to thumb the speed control buttons on the fly. A double tap of the trigger will activate the throttle lock, a single tap releases it.

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Now, it’s pretty obvious ShineMate have modelled the EB212 on the Mirka AROP-B. They both look, sound and feel very similar. Unquestionably, the Mirka is better machine…………………….but not twice the price better. I did also look at getting a Mirka, but price is a huge limiting factor. And with a trigger lock, the ShineMate solves the Mirka’s biggest drawback. After watching the below video, I don’t think you are missing anything in buying the cheaper ShineMate.




So, that’s an overview of how I arrived at the EB212. From here, I need to get some time on the machine. Stay tuned.
 
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D.F.B

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Stihl put out seasonal catalogs for spring, summer, autumn and winter. This helps dealers promote certain models while maintaining margins. Same as a car company selecting certain models to discount and promote, in turn providing a lead in for dealers. However, the idea only works if the company can supply the stock.

In spring and summer, the focus will be on lawn mowers, hedgers, brush cutters and grass trimmers. In autumn, its leaf blowers and pressure washers. And in winter, the focus is on chainsaws.



Visiting my local Stihl dealer this morning, I couldn't help noticing the lack of stock, in particular, the chainsaw wall..............or as I call it, the wall of happiness. And that's not good for dealers at this time of the year, especially when the manufacturer is heavily promoting a range of saws, some with up to $500 discounts.

I naturally asked what was up, the subject clearly a source of frustration. Despite the Stihl rep telling the sales manager that "2000 chainsaws were in Melbourne" to support the winter promotions, what the rep didn't say was that all of those 2000 saws were quarantined on the dock. Technically, the sales rep wasn't lying about the stock being in Melbourne, but it's not "in stock" ready to fill dealer orders.

The sales manager has been on the phone to Stihl every day wanting to know where his stock is. And with at least 12 customer orders for the MS 500i, which is heavily discounted in the latest promotion, that's $24,000 in orders waiting to be filled. And that's just one model from one dealer! I'd be calling them twice a day!

I'm told they expect stock by early July...................which means missing the EOFY cut-off. Not ideal either.
 
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D.F.B

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Two weeks ago, I replaced the bag on the BG86 that's been set up for vacuum duties. This mostly cured the problem I was having with the inlet clogging up, in turn preventing material being discharged to the back of the bag.

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However, I still felt like it wasn't performing as it should. For some reason, the discharge chute seemed to be blocking up more frequently than usual, and when unblocking, the material wasn't shredded. With the suction tube off to clear a blockage, I noticed the impeller was looking a little worn and went and ordered a new one.

Well, with the shroud off and the new part in hand, a comparison between old and new paints the picture.......................

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So yes, I think I got my money's worth out of that impeller! :lol This is how it looked in January 2022..........................

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Stihl uses the same impeller across the BG 56 and 86 blowers, as well as the SH 56 and 86 shredder vacs. The earlier BG 55/85 and SH 55/85 used a different fan, which had a different pattern and was orange in colour instead of black.

BG & SH 55/85 - 4229 704 3400
BG & SH 56/86 - 4241 704 3405

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07Q8JHW4S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

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The worn-down impellor would explain the more frequent blockages, the material wasn't being shredded properly. I have also gone and ordered the shredder blade, which I have a couple floating around somewhere but can't find.

https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/...3ATuHfPuOJuL_ClcW9nm9B1qC4Xq20DRPFR8Yu877bBg5
 
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D.F.B

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I'm not sure why, but I don't often take interior shots. And on the XR6, it has a somewhat unique look.

For FG Falcon, XR sedans and utes were offered with 5 different interior trims. That might sound like a lot, but on the previous BF MK II model, an XR could be had with 13 different interior trim options, exterior colour dependant. In fact, on BA MK II, there 16 different options.

This customization was very much a strategic play for the BA Falcon. Ford wanted to reengage with the more profitable private market rather than flogging base models to fleet and rental customers. Ford gave buyers a chance to order their new car exactly how they wanted, something usually reserved for higher end brands. That's why there were so many interior and exterior colour options during this era. Today? Yeah, you can have black, or black, or black with black........................:mad:

For the BA Falcon, Ford were offering a range of cloth trim colours, which were NCO options, as well black leather trim with red stitching for $1980 (sedan) or $1050 (ute). In April 2004, Ford introduced "XR-Sport Leather Trim", which was available as a standalone option for $2495 (sedan), or via the XR Luxury Pack for $4595 (XR6T & XR8) or $5495 (XR6). This trim was a mixture of patterned leather and suede, and like the cloth trims, was offered in a range of colours. The XR-Sport Leather carried over into the BA MK II, BF and BF MK II models.

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The really sad thing is, while some customers could see value in factory ordering their car, most didn't want to wait and simply purchased what was sitting on the lot. Further to that, most dealers would only order stock with the neutral grey or black trims. And this is why for FG, the choice of interior options was slimmed right down to just 5..........................

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As with the B-Series, most dealers played it safe and ordered XR's with the Streetwise Graphite or the black Nudo Leather. Some did get made with Streetwise Red, in fact the very first FG I drove was a Silhouette Black XR6 with the red trim. Streetwise Silver was a happy medium in my option as it added some contrast to the interior without being in your face.

Streetwise Graphite -

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Streetwise Red -

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Streetwise Blue -

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Streetwise Silver -

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Nudo Leather -

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I remember sitting with the salesman back in early 2008 looking through what stock was available in the Ford system, there being no Sensation with Streetwise Blue available. This is part of the reason why my car was a factor order. My choice of cloth over leather might sound like a strange move, but I was not giving up the chance to have some colour in an otherwise black dungeon. If I had the chance to order this car again, I wouldn't change a thing....................other than going for the turbo engine.

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In March 2010, Ford discontinued the optional cloth trims, slimming down to the bland Streetwise Graphite with blue stitching and lettering. They even started using the same trim on the R6 Ute (which used XR seats), the base Ute lost its unique trim and adopted the XT sedans instead, and the G6 lost the Cashmere trim option. This was clearly a cost cutting exercise in an effort to reduce complexity on the line and with suppliers. A year earlier, they stopped painting the E-GAS engines green, instead used a strip of green tape across the front of the rocker cover. The turbo engine went from gloss to matte red paint.

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So, if you ever see an FG with the red, blue or silver cloth interior, you are looking at something quite rare.
 
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D.F.B

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I’m a bit of a Nazi when it comes to using space efficiently. And when something is a functional annoyance, you can imagine how I felt about the following image…………………………..

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With the fridge dictating the level of the shelf above, there was a lot of space going to waste. To partially remedy this, I decided to make use the horizontal cross bars of the shelving unit uprights to create narrow shelf. Again, the fridge dictated the situation as I only had about 190mm space behind it.

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So, off to the dreaded big green shed to buy a 2.4 metre length of 190 x 45mm treated pine framing timber. The 45mm thickness should reduce the likelihood of it bowing under the weight of whatever ends up sitting on the shelf. Shock of shocks, I was actually served within 45-seconds of entering the timber shop, last time it took 45-minutes!


With the timber cut to length, I then used the offcut to create two 45mm blocks which were then attached to the end of the board, this would boost the height of the shelf.

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From here, I sanded the timber before applying two coats of paint, which I already had from previous projects.

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Paint dry, I threaded the board into place……………………….

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I love when a basic idea buried in my brain becomes a reality. A simple, easy to achieve improvement, exactly how I imagined it.
 
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D.F.B

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My Saturday in pictures..............................

First up, a wash for old blue......................:thumbup:

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Now clean, the XR6 swapped places with the Mustang and its cover put on.
Time to make some noise, grabbing some fresh fuel on the way home.............................:3gears:

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It was then time for walkies.............................:bounce:

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A happy little boy...................🐶

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Some offroad action on the way home, 4H selected for good measure. ;)

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Ooops............................:scared:

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I couldn't help it....................:rolleyes2

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It was bitterly cold morning, but that is almost always followed by clear blue skies and warm sunshine. 🌞
 
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D.F.B

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For those with straight shaft trimmers, don't forget to grease the gearhead on a regular basis.

This doesn't apply to bent shaft trimmers as the driveshaft is directly connected to the spool head. A straight shaft trimmer on the other hand uses a gearbox to change the angle of the output shaft. Considering the speed at which these engines operate, and therefore the gearbox, making sure you have enough lube is vital. Replacement gearheads often carry a significant replacement cost.

This applies to most petrol-powered units, and some battery powered trimmers as well. The exception being certain battery machines that mount the motor at the end of the shaft, in turn eliminating the gearbox entirely. Also, some brands have eliminated the grease port on the cheaper petrol-powered trimmers. However, if you are using a Stihl, Husqvarna, Shindaiwa, Echo or Honda, chances are you have a grease port.

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Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo and Honda have their own branded grease tubes for this task, but there are aftermarket options too.

https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/stihl-lubes-heavy-duty-gear-lubricant/
https://www.husqvarna.com/au/fuel-and-oil/eco-bevel-gear-grease/
https://www.jcmachineryequipment.com.au/shop/p/echo-epnoc-ap2
https://powerequipment.honda.com.au/owners/oilsandchemicals
https://bwmachinery.com.au/product/tecomec-gearbox-grease-125g/

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I like the Stihl option because you can thread the tube into the grease port, squeeze to load up the gearbox, then unscrew and replace the plug. Mess free.

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Officially, you would check and grease the gearbox every 25-hours of use. For a homeowner, you would probably do this at least once a year. For commercially used trimmers, probably every two or three months.
 
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