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Above 1200 Sq/FT DFB's Garage

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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D.F.B

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I often slag off where I live, known nationally as the drug capital of Australia...................but like anything, there is a flip side. A 10-minute drive from town and you are passing through the countries peak fruit growing area, and at this time of the year that means a landscape of bare, skeletalized fruit trees. An extra 10 minutes' drive and you are presented with fields of cropping land. Another 20 minutes and you have rolling hills and paddocks full of sheep and cattle.

Considering the atrocious weather today, there was nothing else to do but get in a car and go for a drive. Too wet for the garage queens, so the Ranger it was. The wonderful Table Manners Podcast playing on the radio.

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There is a hill not long after the above photos that tests even the most stout of engines. Needless to say, the Ranger at full throttle in 2nd gear struggled significantly. :lol

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The photos don't do the landscape justice, the greenery is simply beautiful.

Now compare that to photos taken in the same location nearly 8 months ago at the start of summer...................

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The roads couldn't have been wetter today, with plenty of pooled puddles caught in the farmland roads that I traveled along. The precipitation varied from a gentle shower to driving, heavy rain. The Ranger took it in its stripe, only getting a little flighty when ponding through large puddles. She also moves around on those baggy tyres, but then they really helped on the patchy surface and potholes.
 
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D.F.B

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An empty tray back ute can be a real handful in the wet.

I know...................:3gears:


My old 2010 PK Ranger, which I bought brand new and was the last Mazda-based Courier/Ranger, that thing was absolutely lethal in the wet, to the point where I drove it very timidly in those conditions. The lack of ABS and traction/stability control, as well as the under tyred nature was one of the reasons why I decided to move it on and buy something newer/safer. Having a light duty aluminum tray would not have helped either. I'd often have it suddenly come on boost and light up the rears in third gear. Which could be fun when you were prepared for it, but rather frightening when you weren't.

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The PX MK II is surprisingly surefooted in the wet, even without a load in the tray. I think this is due to a mixture of factors, such the considerably softer rear springs. The PK was so hard in the rear that it didn't have the ability to squat down under power or "breath" with the road, it just skipped across it. The much heavier steel tray helps too, which presses down on the rear for traction. The PX also has bigger and wider wheels and tyres (215 16-inch verses 205 15-inch), and naturally, a well-tuned stability control program. Oh, and lack of power teamed with horrendous turbo lag means you have to be deliberately provoking the car to spin up the tyres or crank it sideways.

I grew tired of the PK as a daily driver because it was just so firm and uncomfortable, then the lack of safety features and the sketchy wet weather handling sealed its fate. I've owned the PX MK II for 9 years now and its still my perfect daily driver, I just wish it had more power.
 
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D.F.B

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I've decided to give these Tempest towels another shot. Considering they are wrapped in Concours branded packaging, I'm guessing Waxit don't sell many of these as the Concours house brand was rebranded NV many years ago now.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/t...&_psq=tempest&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=1102839984

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Koch Chemie / ColourLock recently introduced a range of small-bottled fragrances. I ended up taking a punt on Cozy Cotton, which annoyingly, is the same as Fresh Up that I already have. Of course, Fresh Up doesn't list the fragrance used. ******! :rolleyes:

https://www.waxit.com.au/collection...urlock-interior-fragrance-air-freshener-spray

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When these Detail Factory brushes hit the market a few years ago, they were pushing $30 each. Now that Waxit are carrying them, they have suddenly become much more affordable. At just under $17 a piece, I couldn't resist stocking up on some fresh colours.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/specials/products/detail-factory-ultra-soft-detail-brush-large

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D.F.B

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I noticed late last week that my original CTEK MXS 3.6 wasn't actually charging the battery it was connected to, the Mustang. I have two chargers, this and a newer MXS 5.0. I connected the new one to the Mustang and it began charging, then pulse cycling as they are designed to do rather than a continuous trickle. The old one wasn't doing this, so I guess it was time for replacement. Looking at my records, I bought this charger in November 2011, so I've had a decent run out of it.

I briefly entertained a switch to a different brand but quickly ruled that out as I already have whip lines fitted to each battery. These quick connect lines eliminate the need for the standard alligator clips, which I'm not a fan of as in some cases it doesn't provide a properly secure grip. The fittings also mean a single connection to the battery, not two separate attachments.

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Standard alligator clips..................

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At the moment, Amazon has the cheapest price for the MXS 5.0 by a considerable margin, free shipping as well. You can also get them from eBay, but Amazon have a much easier process to follow should a return be needed. Quite often, CTEK will be on sale at the likes of Repco and Autobarn, but I'm impatient and wanted one NOW. Ordered on Sunday night, here Tuesday morning. I paid less for this newer/better version than I did for the original one in 2011.





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To be truthful, the old MXS 3.6 had been playing up for a while. After hooking it up, I had to "massage" the mode button to get it to select the correct setting, sometimes it would work instantly, other times it needed quite a number of attempts. The newer MXS 5.0 will automatically select the correct mode setting.

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CTEK are probably overpriced for what they are, but I've stuck with the brand as it simplifies a process that I don't like dealing with, for some reason I get anxious working with batteries.
 
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D.F.B

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I decided to whip out the old Victa 18 to mow the front lawns this afternoon. This is exactly what I intended with this mower, the occasional run to satisfy my cravings. She needed a little coaxing to lick off, requiring multiple pulls and full choke before settling into a lovely stable thrum.

I've been cutting my left side neighbour's nature strip for many years now, its the only lawn she has out front and it takes me less than two minutes to run over it while I have the tools out. After finishing mine and my neighbours, I noticed the neighbour next to her had quite an overgrown nature strip. They are rarely home, the owner's son usually comes around every few months and cuts the grass. I looked at it and though, hmmm, I wonder how the little Victa would do.......................

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Wow, wow, wow! This thing just ripped through the thick, overgrown Kikuyu without breaking a sweat. Because it has no governor, you have to manage the throttle yourself. On light growth, you can just set the throttle at about mid-way and putter along. For heavy cutting though, you need to keep your thumb on the throttle and make adjustments as you move along the run. Just as the engine begins to bog when hitting thick growth, you open the throttle fully, the engine then responds and powers through. As you pass through the heavy growth and the load comes off the engine, thumb back the throttle to prevent it from revving to the far side of the moon.

The engine on this Victa is the smallest lawn mower engine I have ever used. And yet, I know for sure that the bigger engines on my other mowers would struggle in the above conditions. This little 125cc punches much harder than makes logical sense. I think because you can open the throttle and feed it more fuel when the going gets tough helps here, the only modern engine that comes close to doing that is the VSX / VEX 160cc Powertorque Victa's, but even they reach a rev ceiling.

Being that the Victa 18 is a utility mower, it simply cuts the grass and flings it out the righthand side of the deck. Hence the finish. For the record, I didn't leave it like that, I went back with the blower to finish things off.

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So, the neighbour unexpectedly got their overgrown nature strip mowed, and I got to see the full potential of my 70-year-old lawn mower.
 
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D.F.B

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I couldn't help sharing this Facebook post from a nursery in my area. I battled this situation countless times in my 20-years in the industry, I just wish I had the ability to deal with that situation as flawlessly......................

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“Are you busy?”

Well…................... I was.

I was sitting on a bag of potting mix, mid-lunch, trying to soak up a bit of winter sun like a lizard on a rock. Sausage roll in hand (part of my very balanced diet). Then I hear it….....................

“Hey mate, are you the manager?”

Now look… when someone interrupts your lunch, it’s always one of two things:
1. “Lochie is FANTASTIC!”
2. “Can I get a discount?”

So, I wiped the sauce off my fingers, gave him a smile, and said, “How can I help?”

He asked if I was the owner (I considered saying no, I could see what was coming)….............................

And yep. There it was. Not a compliment. Not a glowing review. Just:

“Can I get a discount… on this $12.95 plant?”

So, I patted the potting mix beside me and said,

“Take a seat, mate — I’ve got a little story for you.” Where does that $12.95 go?

Let’s break it down -

- GST (straight to the tax man): $1.18 – gone before we even say “thanks for shopping!”
- Plant cost from our growers: $6.00, we support Aussie growers who grow the good stuff.
- Wages & super for our team: $2.50, because legends like ours don’t work for exposure.
- Overheads (rent, power, fuel, mulch in my undies, etc): $2.00
- Extras (pots, tags, eftpos fees, Craig’s bandaid fund): $0.70

So, what’s left for us? Just 57 cents. That’s not even enough for another sausage roll (RIP my lunch).

Now imagine giving a discount on top of that.................We’d be paying you to take the plant — and I already live off potting mix and sarcasm.

So next time you’re tempted to ask for “just a little deal", remember.......................................

- You’re already getting a big, bushy bargain
- With real advice from real gardeners
- At prices that smash the big guys
- And my slightly unhinged humour thrown in for free

THANK YOU for supporting small, local, family-run nurseries like ours. Because without you, we’d be up the nursery creek without a hose reel.

PS - Of course I took the plant to his car and loaded it into the back of his BMW and the free knowledge of how to grow it successfully...........

Now where’s my sausage roll gone?

Help your independent Garden Centres by sharing this post.

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This is one of the reasons why I never feel comfortable haggling, because I always hated being on the other end of it. In those situations, I always felt awkward when being pressured to discount a product, I therefore feel uncomfortable asking for discount. It was almost always the guy or girl driving the flash German luxury car that did this, so why should they be entitled to make money and buy nice things, but not me or the company I represented? The price was the price, you're either happy to pay that price or not. Whatever the decision, be a gentleman or lady about it, don't be a di.k and berate the person who is simply doing their best to stay in business.
 

moab11

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Thunder Bay, Ontario
Between my Dad and I we probably have close to 20 ctek chargers, and the only failures we've had over the years is the mode button stopping working on a couple. There maybe better on the market, but I've been 100% satisfied with them and the range of accessories is quite good too.
Like you, I have the dongles on all vehicles and powersports stuff with a battery.
 
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D.F.B

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A fellow Autogeek member has been raving about this product for a while now, so I thought I'd better see what the fuss is about.......................


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FEYNLAB are mostly known for the stout ceramic coatings, so I've never really looked to far into the range. But, this product is supposed to offer a very easy user experience and rewards with extreme gloss and slickness. So, I keen to try this out.
 
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D.F.B

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My gardening hand tools are a mixture of old and new. High use items are often replaced, usually cutting implements such as secateurs, loppers and hand saws. The old tools I inherited from my grandparents when their houses were packed up. Think Dutch hoes and scarifiers, crowbars, steel rakes, and shovels of varying type. And in my early teens, my grandmother gave me a spade and fork for my birthday.

With all that in mind, for the first time in my career I had to go and buy a shovel. After 25-years of use, my old spade came to the end of its life today. Who would have thought digging out 26 knee height Hebe plants would be so difficult. I was pushing that old spade too hard and it eventually began to banana the head..................there is no coming back from that.

So, off I went to the big green warehouse knowing exactly what I was buying...........................


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"We" had a couple of these Fiskars post hole shovels at work, of which I used quite a lot. As such, they seem to take the abuse thrown at them from multiple users, backed up by a 25-year warranty. The handle with its 40-degree angle makes it more ergonomic, in turn reducing fatigue. The handle design is primarily why I knew what I was going to buy today.

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As for the broken spade, I have an old Cyclone post hole shovel with a broken handle, so I'll swap the spades handle onto the Cyclone's head and regain a working spade. I looked at replacement timber handles in Bunnings while I was there, but they were just too lightweight for my liking. These didn't even have a rounded over top, which would eventually slice into your hand with prolonged use.
 
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D.F.B

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It's all about timing when it comes to horticulture! Yesterday I started on a job that I had earmarked for months but had to time correctly due to scrutiny (more on that shortly). Instead, I had been concentrating on cleaning up fallen leaves from four established Maples, two of didn't start dropping until well into June. This is a commercial garden that was originally constructed by one of my old bosses, and I've subcontracted the maintenance of it ever since. Looking at my records, it's a job I've been doing since September 2014.

Originally, I'd spend an hour a fortnight there weeding, pruning, cleaning ect. But then the site owner decided to buy the property next door, demolish the existing units to add additional office spaces and create a larger carpark. The garden expanded in tandem. A bigger garden means more time needed to maintain that bigger space. My hours spent in that garden each month increased. I think you can guess where this ended up going...................

The property owner is extremely wealthy. That's what happens when you are a workaholic and a medical specialist. In the time I've been there, I've seen a revolving fleet of high-end BMW's and Mercedes, even an AMG GT S, which was amusing as he such a small man in his 80's. Well, at one point he decided that my services were too expensive and that I was no longer required. (Keep in mind that I'm the middleman on this job, all communication is via my boss, which is a long story but trust me, it's easier this way). Of course, I took it personally. I remember telling another client of mine who knows this guy professionally. He was not at all surprised but also told me to be patient...................

Three months later, I was informed that I was needed again, which my other client told me "was always going to happen". However, that garden I had tendered for so long was a complete mess after three months. It would seem there is more to garden maintenance than some lacky spraying weeds with Roundup. I had to go back in and spend considerable time bringing the garden back into shape. It cost him more doing that than me just maintaining. In addition to that, I also had to re-plant two large sections of the carpark garden. Which leads me to the present day.

Those plants that were replaced have now reached the end of their useful life. Hebe Pretty-n-Pink, a fast low growing plant that produces an amazing display of deep purple foliage. But, like all Hebe's, they reach a point of no return relatively quickly. These ones have been pruned and reshaped many, many times. While Hebe's are often receptive to a very HEAVY reformative prune, it can go two ways from here. They will either bounce back with vigour................ or simply die. Considering how lanky and sparse they had become, I made the call to simply replace them.

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In addition to the age factor, in summer I was also having issues with patrons of this business reversing into parks, leaving the engine running and the hot exhaust gases burning MY plants to smithereens. Dorks. What is it with people reversing into car parks, just drive into the park and be done with it, PLEASE. :rolleyes:

Anyway, yesterday I made a start by docking the old plants back to stubs and lifting the roots out with a shovel..................all without piercing the existing irrigation system. Well, the first 13 went ok until I destroyed my 25-year-old spade.................... :rolleyes:

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Who would have thought such a small plant would put up such a giant fight! Anyway, I won in the end with the help of a 50-year-old crow bar! They don't make em like that anymore. I ended up filling my Ranger tray to the brim with green waste before tidying up and leaving the replanting for the following day.

This morning, I got started on replanting. I've decided to give Nandina Moonbay a go in this location. While they are slower growing, they require little to no pruning and should withstand heat better as the foliage is not as fleshy as the Hebe's. Because I was going from three to two plants per bay, I also had to reconfigure the irrigation drippers..................and fix a couple of pieced sections from yesterday, it happens. :rolleyes:

New shovel was broken in nicely on this job. I also added handfuls of bagged compost to the backfill for each plant. Although, its important to not simply fill the hole in completely with new soil as the plant will not settle into that happy space and be less inclined to venture out into the surrounding soil, creating a weaker and more irrigation dependant plant.

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Because this is the older section of garden, the small pink north gravel had broken down and needed to be refreshed. I would ideally have gone with the same size aggregate here as its easier to chip weeds out with a hoe. However, they have since stopped making this size with the fines shifted out, it would otherwise turn to mud. So, I had to top with 14mm pink north, which matches the newer sections anyway.

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Being a carpark, I could simply drive alongside the garden with the side gate removed and shovel directly into place. This eliminated the need for a wheelbarrow, in turn eliminates the double handling. The tarp? Well, you of course know why, but in my defence, it also makes it easier to gather up the dregs towards the end of the job. And for probably the first time ever, I managed to have the exact amount of stone for this job! That meant no second trip or having to find somewhere to dump the remains.

Meanwhile, I'm not sure if others have noticed this, but why is it every landscape supply yard employee is a right arrogant *******? They all look the same, all talk the same, all have the same attitude problem, all think they are doing YOU a favor by selling some of their dirt, bark or stone supply. This isn't just one company, but ALL I have dealt with over the decades. Here's a tip boys, you aren't selling precious metals or making nuclear submarines here. It's rocks, sand, gravel and dirt. That's it. Same as me digging holes and cutting grass.

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Mulching is my favourite part of jobs like this! Probably because its the finishing touch, much like tyre dressing after washing a car. It just makes everything come together.

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A job well done! Now I have to do the same thing on the other side next week! The new plants are a little lost, but they will settle over the next few weeks and be in prime position to take off once the warmth of spring arrives. Here's hoping some geriatric **** doesn't reverse over them.

I also managed to salvage the remains of my old spade. With the old handle removed, it was donated to an ancient (read: made properly) Cyclone shovel head. I looked at new handles in Bunnings, but they were complete junk. So, a few wacks with a steel rod, some fresh screws and a few grazed knuckles, I have a usable spade again.

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moab11

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Thunder Bay, Ontario
In defense of backing in to parking spots, a lot of companies mandate it for commercial vehicles. It helps to eliminate the possibility of backing over something when starting to move the vehicle. So then the employee just gets into the habit and does that with their personal vehicles too. That's what has happened to me, and I do find it easier to get out of a tight parking spot when pulling out forward, but I also drive a fairly large truck.
 
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D.F.B

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In defense of backing in to parking spots, a lot of companies mandate it for commercial vehicles. It helps to eliminate the possibility of backing over something when starting to move the vehicle. So then the employee just gets into the habit and does that with their personal vehicles too. That's what has happened to me, and I do find it easier to get out of a tight parking spot when pulling out forward, but I also drive a fairly large truck.

That makes sense for heavy/commercial vehicles. But in this situation, I'm talking about people driving cars and SUV's to a doctor's surgery. This carpark also provides ample room to reverse out of a park without risk of backing into a car behind or on either side.
 
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D.F.B

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I've known about the FEYNLAB brand for a quite a while now. However, because they are heavily focused on ceramic coatings, I never really looked into the brand other than to see what they offer. What I didn't realize until now was how FEYNLAB were a pioneer in the ceramic coating industry, producing a range of coatings for automotive, marine, and aerospace, as well as the supporting maintenance products. Originally for professional use only, the brand has moved beyond that and now sells into the enthusiast market.



Researching this post, I came the following quotes -

FEYNLAB pioneered nano resin systems and continues to push the boundaries of this technology. One of our founders, John Suerth, first coined the term “Ceramic Coating” over 15 years ago, and no one better understands this topic.

Take note of the bolded part in the next quote. I'm led to believe FEYNLAB is where Pan sources his coatings and/or some of the other products that sells under the CLEAN by Pan The Organizer brand.

FEYNLAB first distributed its revolutionary coating products as a private label for well-known coating brands, quickly establishing an outstanding reputation for durability, appearance, and protection.

With the amount of trash-talk that is going on in the detailing circle at the moment regarding who makes their own products, and who simply white labels someone else's, I think this says a lot..................

Almost all of our materials arrive as raw commodities in simple 55-gallon drums. Unlike other producers, who outsource manufacturing, and nearly every FEYNLAB product is produced in-house.

Utilizing over 100 carefully-selected raw materials, FEYNLAB formulates our lineup of products. Controlling the manufacturing of chemicals and compounds allows the highest possible quality control for each product.

FEYNLAB complete control over all aspects of the manufacturing process puts us ahead of competitors in the nano coating and vehicle care industry. This strategy allows us to quickly release newly developed products while ensuring the highest quality standards.

We utilize automated filling machines for efficient, accurate, and controlled product bottling. Every bottle is manually inspected before tamper-proof sealing.

All products are carefully inspected again by our efficient in-house packaging and shipping department.

Which leads me to a product that a fellow Autogeek forum member urged me to try, FEYNLAB Hybrid Ceramic Detailer. Considering how much of a pioneer the brand has been, it's rather odd that this new product should be given such an unimaginative name..................how many other brands use the term "hybrid ceramic", in fact it makes me think of a whole range of products from Turtle Wax and Meguiar's and not of a high-end professional brand.



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As with any of these detail sprays, I'm generally using these as a post wash drying aid topper. While the brand claims 3-months durability, I really have no interest in that when it comes to drying aids and toppers. Instead, I'm looking for ease of use, slickness and gloss..............in that order. And this product delivers!

First, the ease of use is off the scale. FEYNLAB put an emphasis on reducing the possibility of streaking, and in that regard, they nailed it. Applied heavy or light, it doesn't really matter, the product simply flashes away with the wipe of a towel. The only other product that flashes away so easily would be ADS Amplify, but this is even better. That means less towel work.

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The gloss and slickness are there too, but probably not as class leading as the ease-of-use factor. I'd say Amplify has a slight advantage here, and products such as Bead Maker, Megs HCD or one of the Slipstream derivatives are slicker and glossier again. So, what do you prefer? Ease of use, or the highest possible gloss and slickness? I'll let you decide.

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Despite appearances, the XR6 needs to be polished at some point in the near future. I last corrected the vehicle at the end of December 2020, so I guess its time for a refresh. I probably need to invest in a paint thickness gauge at some point as well, especially for the XR6 as it's been polished many times over its 17-year life and I'm worrying about how much grace I have left.

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D.F.B

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Sean from Waxit has kindly sent me four new Koch Chemie products to evaluate.

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The FFU is an unfortunate abbreviation for "Fruity Fusion" interior scent. Not the first and probably not the last product to get labeled like that, the German-English translation doesn't always play out well with Koch Chemie.

PFS Perfect Finish Sealant is an odd one. It came with a sprayer, but the consistency is like an old school liquid wax or sealant, and it can be applied with a DA machine or small foam hand applicator. I'm told it has some filling properties, as in it can hide minor imperfections and swirls. I'm also told durability is impressive. Important to note that this is a synthetic polymer sealant rather than an in-vogue Si02-based product.

SCF Spotless Ceramic Finish is a different take on a water-spot remover. Where most in this class are acidic, this one is pH neutral. I'm told it has proved extremely effective, which doesn't always apply to these products.

WG Wet Gloss is Koch Chemie's take on Carpro Hydr02 and Gyeon Wet Coat, as in a spray and rinse product that boosts gloss, slickness and hydrophobic properties. Ideal for wheels and as a quick coating topper.

I have something in mind for all of these in coming weeks.
 
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D.F.B

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Last week, Sean from Waxit asked if I would be willing to try out a few of the latest Koch Chemie products that have recently been released. Is the Pope catholic? Of course I would!

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All but the Perfect Finish Sealant were used today on the Ranger.

After cleaning the wheels and tyres, the first of these products I grabbed was WG Wet Gloss. This is a water activated spray and rinse touch-less sealant, basically Koch Chemie's take on Carpro Hydr02, Gyeon Wet Coat and ADS Beads. Unlike those competitors, Wet Gloss has a slight fragrance to it.


Application is the same, apply to a clean but still wet surface, then rinse immediately. Now, these wheels are coated so the before and after wasn't dramatic, in this case it's about maintaining that coating. For un-coated wheels, this product improves gloss and slickness, while also adding hydrophobic properties to help with drying. A quick and easy way to add protection and enhance your wheels without having to do an intensive wheels off detail. I also like to use these products for plastic wheel arch liners.

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Next, SCF Spotless Ceramic Finish, which is a different take on a water-spot and limescale remover. Where most products in this category are acidic to dissolve mineral deposits that cause water-spots, SCF is actually pH neutral. Now, results from water-spot removers can be hit and miss, but from what I had been told, SCF is one of the most effective yet.


In this case, I used SCF to remove a few light water-spots on the roof, probably created when I had parked the car outdoors for a week. When sprayed onto a clean surface, you then allow SCF to briefly dwell, then wipe with a towel. From here, KCx suggest rinsing with water to remove any residue. Pleasingly, SCF did the trick on those water-spots. Amazingly, it also removed some stubborn water spots from my stainless-steel sink and chromed tap.

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After cleaning the interior, the finishing touch was a spritz of Fruit Fusion scent. Nothing revolutionary here, although I've found these last a little longer than some, as in not just an hour. Fruity Fusion joins the Cozy Cotton I got last week.


Lucky I didn't have those bottles around the other way! I wonder if the Germans realize what they are putting on some of their product labels?

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I also continued using FEYNLAB Hybrid Ceramic Detailer, which was called on for drying aid duties.

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Finishing things off, I grabbed an old favorite for the tyres, NV Onyx.
 
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D.F.B

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Apparently I'm an "OG-spec bro...................a genius idea................."

From 33-min mark regarding the drying of the car with Eraser after the decon wash........................

 
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D.F.B

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One of the key reasons why I like Koch Chemie Pol Star is how it lathers up under agitation. This lather helps display where you've been and gives a visual impression that you are actually achieving something. To be fair, most interior cleaners do this, but Pol Star differs in that it's pH neutral. Now, some will argue that Pol Star is less capable for that reason...................but that's just not true. I've used it on filthy neglected leather and had it do a splendid job.

Koch Chemie (PO) Pol Star | Textile, Leather and Alcantara Cleaner – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Pol Star | The Rag Company

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So, with that in mind, why are we using harsh alkaline APC's to clean interiors? And it's not a cost issue either, Pol Star is now incredibly affordable, especially when diluted as directed -

Light Cleaning - 20:1
Medium Duty - 10:1
Heavy Duty - 5:1

That lathering ability mentioned at the beginning also means Pol Star can foam. Not in a foam cannon, although that could be an interesting experiment. :unsure: No, in this case I'm talking about those pump action soap dispensers. In fact, Koch Chemie sell one for use with Pol Star, which mimics the same setup used by ColourLock for their leather cleaners and includes a handy dilution scale printed on the bottle.

Koch Chemie Foamer Bottle 150ml: High-Quality Foam Generation - Detailing Shed
Koch-Chemie - Foamer Bottle | The Rag Company

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So why would you want a foaming interior cleaner? There are situations where spraying product ends up being quite messy, especially on vertical surfaces as it ends up running down and away from what you are trying to clean. However, foam allows that cleaner to stay in place. For this, you would be applying Pol Star into the bristles of your brush rather than directly onto a surface.

For example, a foaming cleaner is ideal for steering wheels, gear shifters and handbrake levers. Being vertical surfaces, foam allows you to control its application much better without making a mess.

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Foam is also ideal for spot cleaning fabrics. Why? Because in foam format, the product is less likely to oversaturate the area, which in turn makes removing the cleaning chemical afterwards much easier. Yes, the key to cleaning fabrics and carpet is the actual removal of the cleaner/dirt emulsion afterwards. Go heavy with the cleaner, well, you have more to take out. This also makes Pol Star in foam format ideal for Alcantara and suede, again, you are less likely to oversaturate the material.

Only one retailer in Australia carries the KCx branded pump foam bottles. But unbranded versions in a variety of sizes are available on Amazon and eBay. In my case, I went with 200ml versions, but I wouldn't go any smaller than 150ml for efficiency.

Clear Empty Foam Pump Bottle, Travel Soap & Shampoo Dispenser (4 Pack, 6.8oz/200ml) : Amazon.com.au

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I also tried the excellent P&S Xpress in one of these bottles and it worked just as well. Just be mindful that Xpress isn't pH neutral.

For larger surface areas like a leather seat, you would probably stick to a spray bottle and use your brush to lather up the product. However, as explained, a foaming cleaner has its place and advantages.
 
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D.F.B

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I completed the second stage of this carpark garden reno today, which is nice to have it done and off my brain.

Like last week, I worked bay to bay cutting the old Hebe’s down to a stub and loading the material into the tray of the Ranger. I then dug down and lifted the stub and root system out of the ground, doing my best to avoid severing the irrigation line. Then, I raked out all of the leaves and debris that had accumulated. Because this section is longer and therefore had more plants, I had to make two trips to the tip, thankfully not far from this job.

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After the cleanup, I then replanted with the same variety of Nandina’s that were used in the previous section, all measured for uniform spacing. I then made sure each plant had a dripper, going from three to two plants per section meant I had to reconfigure the layout. After a test run, thankfully I didn’t spear the feed line this week, but I did shear off a couple of drippers, but they needed to be plugged anyway.

I hadn’t planned on refreshing gravel mulch in this section, mainly because there was plenty of it left and already the larger aggregate. But my OCD prompted me to go ahead and do it anyway, mainly so it would uniformly match last week’s effort. Once again, 14mm pink north.

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My return after finishing the job, this does my head in, tools scattered all over the place……………………..

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Next up on this job, a HEAVY prune of the Magnolia 'Cleopatra' planted along the other side of the carpark. Magnolias have a reputation for being slow, and these certainly took time to establish. But once they have found their feet, this variety has proven extremely aggressive in bouncing back from a heavy prune. Again, I will time this job for a weekend to have full access of the carpark.
 
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D.F.B

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Despite feeling off colour today, I forced myself to go outside and make the most of the lovely late winter sunshine. The plan was to wash the XR6 before swapping places with the Mustang and it cover going on.

The wheels were given a quick once over with OG Decon Soap, the tyres scrubbed with Brake Buster, Atom Mac on the rotors. I then rinsed the whole car and drove back into the garage for a rinse-less wash with ADS Hero, then dried using ADS Adapt.

Adapt is termed a water-less wash, which I think tends to limit its appeal. In reality, Adapt is just so versatile and has the potential to be used on just about every vehicle surface, inside and out. On paint, its super forgiving to use with little to no streaking and a lovely slick finish. Oh, and the scent is a real treat as well.


In addition to drying aid duties, I also used Adapt for the door jambs and engine bay.

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With the wheels wiped over and the tyres dressed, the old girl was moved into position and covered up for a few weeks. It's the Mustang's turn!

And I'm calling it, spring is on the way, I can smell it in the air! And not just the air, but several fragrant late winter flowering plants have begun doing their thing, think Wattles, Early Cheer, Osmanthus and the delightfully intoxicating Daphne. Scent is probably my most alert sense, so I tend to be ruled by it. So, when I comment on a product scent, it's not because of hype or marketing, it's purely me following true to type.
 
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D.F.B

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Let's try this again..................

It's been a while.................

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I've been experimenting with Drag Mode, specifically how it affects manual shift speed. The actual speed at which the shift is completed is extremely impressive. But I just wish there wasn't such a lag time between flipping the paddle and the gearbox responding. At least when in Drag mode, the shift is quicker, which tends to give the impression of a faster response.
 
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D.F.B

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After I detailed this 2012 Toyota Landcruiser back in April, I noted that the headlights were needing attention due to heavy oxidation and crazing. The owners have been using the vehicle more and more for caravan towing, doing some big distances in the process. I mentioned the headlights weren't very roadworthy in that condition and would probably need to be addressed at some point.

This image from April doesn't fully depict just how bad they were..............

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Initially, I suggested the headlights could be polished out to buy some time, but the results would be short lived. Oxidation like this returns within a few months due to the degradation of the UV coating that is baked into the plastic at the factory. In the end, rather than investing time and money into something that would only yield short-term results, they decided to have the headlights replaced.

So, two brand new genuine Toyota headlights were installed yesterday. This was not a quick replacement, the job also involved removing that huge steel bull bar. With the bar out of the way, they could then remove the grill and truncated plastic bumper, which then gave access the headlight mounting hardware. So, two brand new genuine headlights, plus all of the labour to remove and re-install the bull bar, there wasn't much change out of $2000.

Before they took the vehicle in for this work, I asked if they could keep the old headlights so that I could have a go at re-finishing them. But when I went to pick them up this morning, I discovered just how truly massive these things are! When fitted to the vehicle, the headlight size is disguised by the sheer massiveness of the Landcruiser itself.

First off, I taped up the bulb locators to prevent getting moisture inside the lens. I then took some Green Star and a brush to clean off 13-years worth of dirt and grime from behind the unit and around the edges. For reference, this vehicle has been parked outdoors its whole life.

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Again, the camera hides how bad they are. While the oxidation covered the entire lens, the top edge facing toward the sky had become yellowed and crazed. Now, I knew I wouldn't get all of that out, not unless I disassembled the entire headlight unit, and that wasn't happening.

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I normally just polish headlights like this. In most cases a set of passes with a wool pad and a heavy compound knocks down the oxidation, then a pass with a finishing polish on a foam pad cleans them up. You won't get perfection, but considering how quick and simple this method is, the results are hardly disappointing.

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As a general rule of thumb, you should never polish headlights unless needed. Just like paint, the more you polish, the more UV clear coating you remove, which in turn speeds up the decline. The thing is, if your headlights are showing signs yellowing or have a cloudy finish, that means the UV coating has already began to fail. In which case, polish away...............or replace them.

Just know that because the coating is compromised, the damage will continue to return, and return faster and faster after each polishing. The only way to stop this would be to lock in the finish with a clear coat or PPF. However, achieving a flat/uniform finish with clear coat is virtually impossible on headlights, and PPF is not always a readily available option for many. Also, ceramic coatings and dedicated headlight sealants only delay the inevitable, I know because I've tried them all.

On this occasion, I wanted to use these headlights as a learning platform, in particular wet sanding. This method requires considerably more time and effort, but is often required when the oxidation has progressed beyond what polishing alone can achieve. Also, if the UV clear coat has begun peeling or the headlight has a patchy look, wet sanding is your only option. In this situation, wet sanding will remove the remainder of the UV coating, in turn leveling the finish down to bare, smooth plastic.

First step, I stared with 400 grit. For lubrication during the whole sanding process, I used P&S Absolute at 128:1.

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From there, I worked my way through 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit. In hindsight, I would probably start with 600 or 800 grit in the future.

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The image directly above was taken after the 4000 grit. It was then time for polishing. I started with Sonax Cutmax on a Rupes blue wool, the most aggressive combo I have. From here, I switched to Sonax Perfect Finish on a ShineMate orange foam pad. This was my first time using the EB212, and wow, this thing is brilliant! Pad stall? What pad stall?

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The side-by-side comparison is night and day!

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Some crazing remains, which is locked inside the lens.

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The process was then repeated for the second headlight. At some point, I'll ceramic coat them to provide at least some UV protection. Having said that, they won't be going back on the car anyway.

This was my first attempt at wet sanding headlights, so the finished result is far from perfect. In the future, having another grade or two of sand paper would likely produce a better finish. But as I said, I was using these as a learning tool, the owners knew this as well.

But, clearly I did a good enough job because the owners were impressed with the night and day before result. I was then told I could keep or sell them.
 
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D.F.B

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Cleaning carpet floor mats can be very tedious.

Normally, if I find carpet mats need more than a simple vacuum, I'll start by blasting them with compressed air first. This helps dislodge stubborn sand and debris, which in turn makes vacuuming easier.

If the mats are stained, I'll usually blast with compressed air, then lightly apply some carpet cleaner, agitate with a brush, then vacuum. I'll then put them in the sun to dry while I continue working on the vehicle. This method limits the amount of moisture introduced, which means not handing a car back with wet carpets.

Considering this car is not currently being used by the owner, I decided to try another method, basically the next step in carpet cleaning.....................

In the past, I've seen carpet mats being blasted by a pressure washer to properly flush out the dirt from the fibres. So, I'm going from "minimal" moisture to "fully" saturated! No turning back on this one.................

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It's surprising how heavy these mats are when fully saturated.

You would never do this and leave it that way, not unless you have days for the carpet to dry. Otherwise, you need an extractor. Something I've always wondered while watching certain Youtube detailers go all-in ripping out seats, then fully saturating carpet with cleaning chemicals and extractors. Do they then keep the car until all of this dries out, or hand it back that way? This is rarely, if ever, addressed.

Anyway, I bought this Bissell a few years ago when they were on sale. At the time, I didn't necessarily need it, but the price was too good to ignore. It's sat in my cabinet ever since, again, the idea of handing cars back with wet carpet didn't appeal

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After the blast with the pressure washer, the mats looked much cleaner, the high-pressure water removing that ingrained dirt that wouldn't lift with the vacuum. Even so, I then applied some KCx Pol Star, allowed it to soak, then went in with the extractor.

These extractors have two reservoirs, one for a cleaning chemical or clean water, the other holds the liquid extracted from the carpet. The chemical or clean water can then be sprayed onto the carpet as you work. This method would be used for fabric seats and carpet in situe. In my case, I used the Bissell simply for extraction purposes as the carpet was already wet and already had cleaning chemical applied.

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This was my first time using an extractor. Even after using the pressure washer, it was surprising how much extra funk the Bissell drew out of the carpet. And I have to say, it was deeply satisfying seeing all that water and dirt being sucked into the extractor head and into the tank.

The end result is by far the best finish I've ever achieved cleaning carpet mats. Once dried, I'm going to apply some 303 Fabric Guard, then follow with some KCx Fresh Up to kill off any odours.
 
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D.F.B

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Woke this morning to a frosty -4 degrees outside. For 20 years, I had to endure those early morning winter temperatures, be that in my own business or at the nursery. I got quite good at layering up with thermal clothing, but those layers didn’t prevent painful frozen fingers and toes, made worse by my diabetes. In the later years, I was using those thermal toe warmer packs, which I’d also put inside my garden gloves. These worked very well to get you through the first few hours until the sun took the edge off. If nothing else, a frosty morning at least meant a lovely sunny day would follow. It’s funny, when you pursue a career in Horticulture, you end up becoming a meteorologist as well.

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These days, I’m not expected to be outside while the rest stay indoors with the heater on, you know, just in case a customer decided to buy a plant in -4 temperatures (which they never did, I know I wouldn’t). I also have flexibility to start my working day whenever I feel like it. No more frozen fingers and toes. And that makes me happy.

So, after things had thawed out a little, I made a start on the Wildtrak. I’m so glad I got this car coated before the cold months set in, it’s made cleaning off winter road grime so much easier. That coating also means I can use more effective pre-treatment chemicals without stripping protection.

To start with today, I removed the rubber floor mats and popped the hood. I then applied Bilt Hamber Touch-less to the lower body, wheels, floor mats and engine bay. While the Touch-less did its thing on the paint, I scrubbed the floor mats, followed by a little agitation of the engine bay with Detail Factory and EZ-Detail brushes. From here, the whole car including the floor mats and engine bay was rinsed. With the floor mats drying in the sun, a healthy dose of Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing (mixed at 4:1) went onto the engine bay, followed by a quick blast with the EGO to removed excess water and distribute the dressing.

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With this method of engine bay detailing, you will end up with some Hyper Dressing on the exterior surfaces, which is why you do this step prior to washing. With the hood closed, you can then rinse any overspray and continued with the rest of the job.

After cleaning the wheels and tyres with Brake Buster and Carpro ReTyre, I then attacked the rest of the car with Carpro Reset. Following that, I foamed with Hydr02 Foam, which is proving quite useful as a foam & rinse coating topper. After a hit with the EGO, Megs HCD was the drying aid.

The interior wasn’t too bad this time around, so a quick vacuum and wipe down with ADS Pilot, leather included. Glass was via P&S True Vue, which is good at this time of the year as you can richen the mix to help with evaporation in colder conditions (4:1 in winter, 10:1 for summer). A quick spritz of KCx Cozy Cotton and the floor mats reinstalled, the interior was done.

Finally, I prepped the tyres with Stoner’s Tarminator, then followed with a fresh application of ADS Ghost. On these tyres, I’ve found they need two layers. I then popped the hood and mopped up any remaining water/Hyper Dressing.

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With a car booked tomorrow, I then went ahead and started refilling bottles and mixing up dilutions, ready for action in the morning. This is one of my favourite detailing activities, a cliché I know, but I find it strangely satisfying. Today I also finished off a few bottles of product, which is also extremely satisfying as it either means getting rid of a dud product or justifies a shopping spree for more! :thumbup:
 

littlebean

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I'm always in awe of the effort you go to with cleaning, well, everything - that looks great but I just don't have the patience to do it myself
at least I can look at your pics and see what I could have achieved
 
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D.F.B

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Subaru Forester Detail & Product Testing -

The Subaru returns for another detailing session. Compared to its visit last month, there was considerably less work to be done this time around. Even so, to free up some time today I actually began proceedings on Sunday, bowling over the vacuuming and interior wipe down.

As per a previous post, I decided to give the front carpet mats a deep clean in an attempt to remove the ingrained dirt. This is why I personally think daily drivers are much better served with rubber floor mats, it's a vastly superior solution, especially in winter. After a blast with the pressure washer, KCx Pol Star was applied and allowed to soak before extracting with the Bissell. This process revealed bright white stitching and Subaru lettering, they were grey-brown prior to treatment.

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Also on Sunday, I had given the car a very quick Touch-less foam and rinse to plough through the bulk of the dirt, again freeing up some time for today.

For it's visit last month, I'd given the Subaru a pretty extensive decontamination wash, which meant I could skip all of that today. With the wheels and tyres taken care of (Purge, Brake Buster & Wise Guy), the vehicle was then foamed with KCx Active Foam as a pre-soak. After a rinse, I then reformed with Active Foam for the contact wash. Don't let the "Foam" aspect of the name fool you, this is an excellent soap for contact washing as its super slick and holds onto the paint as your work around the car. It's pH of 9.5 puts it with Meguiar's Hyper Wash, meaning its slightly more aggressive but not to the level of KCx Super Foam or Carpo Lift. However, where Hyper Wash is a bear to rinse off, Active Foam is free rinsing, which improves efficiency and reduces water use. Oh, and it smells divine.

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Normally from here I would get some Hydr02 or similar onto the car, but I had other plans so skipped this step. I will say though, the P&S Defender that was applied last month is much more durable than you'd think. After a hit with Touch-less and two rounds of Active Foam, it was hanging in there.

And this is where the new product testing comes into the equation. Earlier in the month I was sent a small selection of new Koch Chemie products to sample. All bar one have already been used and reviewed, but I needed the right vehicle to test the remaining product, Perfect Finish Sealant.

Koch Chemie Perfect Finish Sealant | Durable Gloss Enhancer & Sealant – Waxit Car Care

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Perfect Finish Sealant is a new product from Koch Chemie, one that I've struggled to get my head around (more on that shortly). Words such as "ceramic", "hybrid" and "Si02" are completely missing from the product description, instead this is an old-school synthetic polymer sealant. Koch Chemie highlight the following benefits -

- A high gloss finish with a slick feel
- Amplifies reflectivity and smoothness after polishing
- Durability, forming a long-term barrier to contamination
- Provides UV protection
- Ease of use, both application and removal
- No streaking
- Apply by hand or machine
- Provides anti-static properties, in theory keeping the car cleaner for longer

Before application, I gave the entire car a wipe down with KCX Panel Preparation Spray. Actually, I did this after blowing the car off with the EGO, then used PPS as a drying aid to remove remaining moisture. I actually finished off this bottle, which I bought at great expense for a prep spray comparison a few years ago, an absurd $42.95 for 500ml. This is an excellent product, so much so that I found it to be the best on test.................but I just couldn't hand it the win due to the ridicules price. Carpro Eraser won that comparison, which back then a 500ml bottle was half the price of PPS. However, since Waxit have taken over distribution of KCx, the pricing is much more palatable.

Koch Chemie (PPS) Panel Preparation Spray | Control Spray – Waxit Car Care

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And this is where I got confused, the application. The consistency of PFS is quite thick, which means it doesn't atomize like a regular spray sealant. That said, a spray head can be used to apply it into a towel or applicator. For anyone who has used AMMO Hydrate, you will know what I mean here. As such, this is NOT a simple mist and wipe product such as Carpro Reload, ADS Amplify or NV Boost.

Reading the directions, Koch Chemie suggest using a foam applicator sponge or a soft waxing pad on a dual action polisher. This puts it alongside some very old school sealants such as Menzerna Powerlock or Wolfgang DGPS. I've also seen suggestion of using a two-towel application method, one to spread, one to buff. In the end, I went with a foam applicator puck, but also tried it with the towel method.

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Working panel to panel, apply PFS into the applicator, then work across the section. After allowing 30 - 60 seconds to bond, wipe off with a towel. I'm told a little goes a long way, however I found that hard to gauge owing to the white paint. Once applied, PPS doesn't necessarily haze over like a traditional sealant, in fact it almost flashes away. The wipe off itself is then very easy and requires little to no effort achieving a perfectly clean, clear finish. A "perfect finish" if you will.

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Funnily enough, untreated panels felt slicker than the freshly treated ones, which is somewhat odd for a polymer sealant. However.................the gloss it imparts is hard to argue with. And it's a lovely warm gloss too, not the almost fake glass-like gloss a ceramic will achieve. I was also told prior to use that PFS has the ability to mask or reduce minor paint imperfections. And that certainly played out here. In fact, right before my eyes I watched as PFS transformed a jacked-up Subaru badge into a clear, glossy Subaru badge. It also helped bring out the metal flake of this Crystal White Pearl paint.

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So, while the (as usual) KCx product description caused some confusion, and its not the quickest and easiest to apply, the results speak for themselves.

For the rest of the vehicle, I used ECH20 on the door jambs, Stoner Invisible Glass inside and out, misted the carpets with Fresh Up, scrubbed the seats with Pol Star, then applied an old favorite to the leather, NV Nourish. The tyres were dressed with Carpro Perl, and the black plastic trim treated with Mother's Naturally Black.

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Finished results! The key to making white paint POP is having the surrounding materials and accents dialled in. In this case, the black plastic body cladding and tyres......................

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I'm told Perfect Finish Sealant has proven to be comparable with NV Boost v2 in terms of durability, so up to 6-months or so. Obviously, that's dependant on a variety of factors, so use that as a guide only. With this vehicle parked in the open most of the time, it will be interesting to see how long PFS lasts. As it stands, I really like the way this sealant looks.
 

jim

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Subaru Forester Detail & Product Testing -

The Subaru returns for another detailing session. Compared to its visit last month, there was considerably less work to be done this time around. Even so, to free up some time today I actually began proceedings on Sunday, bowling over the vacuuming and interior wipe down.

As per a previous post, I decided to give the front carpet mats a deep clean in an attempt to remove the ingrained dirt. This is why I personally think daily drivers are much better served with rubber floor mats, it's a vastly superior solution, especially in winter. After a blast with the pressure washer, KCx Pol Star was applied and allowed to soak before extracting with the Bissell. This process revealed bright white stitching and Subaru lettering, they were grey-brown prior to treatment.

IMG-6881.jpg

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Also on Sunday, I had given the car a very quick Touch-less foam and rinse to plough through the bulk of the dirt, again freeing up some time for today.

For it's visit last month, I'd given the Subaru a pretty extensive decontamination wash, which meant I could skip all of that today. With the wheels and tyres taken care of (Purge, Brake Buster & Wise Guy), the vehicle was then foamed with KCx Active Foam as a pre-soak. After a rinse, I then reformed with Active Foam for the contact wash. Don't let the "Foam" aspect of the name fool you, this is an excellent soap for contact washing as its super slick and holds onto the paint as your work around the car. It's pH of 9.5 puts it with Meguiar's Hyper Wash, meaning its slightly more aggressive but not to the level of KCx Super Foam or Carpo Lift. However, where Hyper Wash is a bear to rinse off, Active Foam is free rinsing, which improves efficiency and reduces water use. Oh, and it smells divine.

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Normally from here I would get some Hydr02 or similar onto the car, but I had other plans so skipped this step. I will say though, the P&S Defender that was applied last month is much more durable than you'd think. After a hit with Touch-less and two rounds of Active Foam, it was hanging in there.

And this is where the new product testing comes into the equation. Earlier in the month I was sent a small selection of new Koch Chemie products to sample. All bar one have already been used and reviewed, but I needed the right vehicle to test the remaining product, Perfect Finish Sealant.

Koch Chemie Perfect Finish Sealant | Durable Gloss Enhancer & Sealant – Waxit Car Care

IMG-6693.jpg

Perfect Finish Sealant is a new product from Koch Chemie, one that I've struggled to get my head around (more on that shortly). Words such as "ceramic", "hybrid" and "Si02" are completely missing from the product description, instead this is an old-school synthetic polymer sealant. Koch Chemie highlight the following benefits -

- A high gloss finish with a slick feel
- Amplifies reflectivity and smoothness after polishing
- Durability, forming a long-term barrier to contamination
- Provides UV protection
- Ease of use, both application and removal
- No streaking
- Apply by hand or machine
- Provides anti-static properties, in theory keeping the car cleaner for longer

Before application, I gave the entire car a wipe down with KCX Panel Preparation Spray. Actually, I did this after blowing the car off with the EGO, then used PPS as a drying aid to remove remaining moisture. I actually finished off this bottle, which I bought at great expense for a prep spray comparison a few years ago, an absurd $42.95 for 500ml. This is an excellent product, so much so that I found it to be the best on test.................but I just couldn't hand it the win due to the ridicules price. Carpro Eraser won that comparison, which back then a 500ml bottle was half the price of PPS. However, since Waxit have taken over distribution of KCx, the pricing is much more palatable.

Koch Chemie (PPS) Panel Preparation Spray | Control Spray – Waxit Car Care

IMG-6914.jpg

And this is where I got confused, the application. The consistency of PFS is quite thick, which means it doesn't atomize like a regular spray sealant. That said, a spray head can be used to apply it into a towel or applicator. For anyone who has used AMMO Hydrate, you will know what I mean here. As such, this is NOT a simple mist and wipe product such as Carpro Reload, ADS Amplify or NV Boost.

Reading the directions, Koch Chemie suggest using a foam applicator sponge or a soft waxing pad on a dual action polisher. This puts it alongside some very old school sealants such as Menzerna Powerlock or Wolfgang DGPS. I've also seen suggestion of using a two-towel application method, one to spread, one to buff. In the end, I went with a foam applicator puck, but also tried it with the towel method.

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Working panel to panel, apply PFS into the applicator, then work across the section. After allowing 30 - 60 seconds to bond, wipe off with a towel. I'm told a little goes a long way, however I found that hard to gauge owing to the white paint. Once applied, PPS doesn't necessarily haze over like a traditional sealant, in fact it almost flashes away. The wipe off itself is then very easy and requires little to no effort achieving a perfectly clean, clear finish. A "perfect finish" if you will.

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Funnily enough, untreated panels felt slicker than the freshly treated ones, which is somewhat odd for a polymer sealant. However.................the gloss it imparts is hard to argue with. And it's a lovely warm gloss too, not the almost fake glass-like gloss a ceramic will achieve. I was also told prior to use that PFS has the ability to mask or reduce minor paint imperfections. And that certainly played out here. In fact, right before my eyes I watched as PFS transformed a jacked-up Subaru badge into a clear, glossy Subaru badge. It also helped bring out the metal flake of this Crystal White Pearl paint.

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So, while the (as usual) KCx product description caused some confusion, and its not the quickest and easiest to apply, the results speak for themselves.

For the rest of the vehicle, I used ECH20 on the door jambs, Stoner Invisible Glass inside and out, misted the carpets with Fresh Up, scrubbed the seats with Pol Star, then applied an old favorite to the leather, NV Nourish. The tyres were dressed with Carpro Perl, and the black plastic trim treated with Mother's Naturally Black.

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Finished results! The key to making white paint POP is having the surrounding materials and accents dialled in. In this case, the black plastic body cladding and tyres......................

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I'm told Perfect Finish Sealant has proven to be comparable with NV Boost v2 in terms of durability, so up to 6-months or so. Obviously, that's dependant on a variety of factors, so use that as a guide only. With this vehicle parked in the open most of the time, it will be interesting to see how long PFS lasts. As it stands, I really like the way this sealant looks.
What product did you use on the black plastic trim? Sees like almost all newer cars have a lot of the black plastic trim.
 
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D

D.F.B

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Messages
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Location
Australia
What product did you use on the black plastic trim? Sees like almost all newer cars have a lot of the black plastic trim.

On this occasion, I used Mothers Naturally Black.

IMG-0313.jpg

This is basically a quick fix solution and not one I would use on my own cars. If trim is faded, I would deep clean it with APC and an IPA wipe down, the treat with Solution Finish.

If trim is otherwise in decent condition, I treat it with Carpro Reload. This is a ceramic spray sealant which works really well on black trim. I like this because it doesn't create gloss, just a deeper/richer tone. It also doesn't wash away when it rains or if when you wash the car. That applies to Solution Finish as well.

Don't waste time using a plastic or rubber dressing, you need to apply it after every wash/rain for it to be effective.
 

Lyndon

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Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
2,534
Location
Sydney, Australia
Deyon

It has taken me a couple of weeks to read your whole thread, and boy - I'm worn out. Your energy is relentless! I am a lot older than you (I'm 66 in a few weeks), and would have previously said I was a fairly experienced car detailer having, some years ago, owned a wedding car company that meant cars cleaned every weekend...... But your experience, your product range and knowledge and the depth of your descriptions - well - it just amazes me. I don't know how I missed your thread before, but only came across it when Geoff and KitDoctor were discussing cabinets and tools.....

A few points:

1. I also own an XR8 (BF Mk2 - 2006) in Ego, with an added GT wing. I bought it new in 2006 and I bought it for several reasons. Firstly - it had the 6 speed auto. Secondly - one of the people who took the Au (sorry - but they were ugly to me ). 🤷‍♂️ - was Ian Callum, who's work I adore. And thirdly - I had driven a 2004 GT, but the gearbox was dreadful.... The XR8 now has 413,000 kms on the odo and is still going strong. My mechanic services it every 10,000 km - so it's very well looked after.

2. I also am a serial Jag owner. I still have my 2nd Jaguar (1983 XJ6 S3, bought from one of Australia's wealthiest men in 1992), and I now also have my 5th Jaguar (a 2000 Carnival Red XJR that I bought myself in 2015 for surviving my illness).

3. I own just about every product that Bowdens produce, and I do it because I like their products, I like their attitude (nothing is too serious), I like their social media rapid responses to questions, I love their car collection (especially the Moffstang, and Geoghans Super Falcon), and I like the fact that they are Australian.....

4. A few weeks ago I was supposed to be in Shepparton for a meeting, but as my Dad had just been admitted to a Palliative Care Ward and didn't have long left - I just attended by video link. I don't know how long you've been visiting GJ, but one of the great moderators on here used to live in Shepparton - the much missed 1/2 Cup - Steve Church. Unfortunately we lost Steve in 2019 and he is still spoken of fondly. I visited him and Julie there one day when the wife and I were on a road trip to the Great Ocean Rd (and on to Broken Hill, so a 3 week and 3500 km drive). You'll notice at the bottom of some posters on here the letters WW1/2D - it stands for What Would 1/2 Cup Do.... Steve was a prodigious poster, and insisted that every screw be clocked, and every lawn edge be mitre perfect. I miss him a lot! His son (a friend of mine on FB) has just about finished Steve's Model A. Oh - and the QST time note at the bottom of my posts is from 1/2 Cup as well - a very well used saying of his.

Personally I can no longer detail cars like you do, as I suffer from Chronic Fatigue Syndrome, and get very tired, very quickly. It was a by-product of 14 weeks of chemotherapy about 12 years ago, that still persists to this day. But I do enjoy polishing things, and am going to be doing the wheels of some of my cars soon.

So I have to blame you for a couple of purchases..... :

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For this:


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Back when I was in the midst of my Cancer Battle the TV program from Channel 10 - The Living Room - did up our lounge room. And they left us 3 of these galvanised topped tables. But over time they have faded and pot plants have left stains on them (like you can see above) So I am trying this polish to clean them up. Only did a quarter of this table yesterday and hope to re-attack it this afternoon or tomorrow.

And I do have to admit that this morning I made 2 more (Deyon inspired) purchases from Waxit..... 1 of their wheel stands and a box of RipnRags.....

The wheel stand is something I've needed forever as I habitually take wheels off cars to clean them properly (including the backs of them), and getting down to ground level is harder and harder these days.

So - I'll just leave all this here.

Thanks for your inspired, well written posts, and keep it up.

Lyndon
 
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D.F.B

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Aug 2, 2023
Messages
1,553
Location
Australia
Mustang Wash Day!

Tyres - Undiluted Brake Buster

Wheels - Brake Buster (foamed)

Rotors - Atom Mac (prevents flash rusting)

IMG-3470.jpg

Wash - Koch Chemie GSF (foamed)

Drying - EGO 765 blower, followed by ADS Adapt

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Glass - Stoners Invisible Glass

Engine Bay - Wiped down with ADS Adapt

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Wheels, Exhaust tips - Wiped down with ADS Amplify

Tyres - Dressed with Obsessed Garage Tire Dressing

IMG-4918.jpg

Satisfaction - Achieved!
 

jim

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
284
Location
wi
On this occasion, I used Mothers Naturally Black.

IMG-0313.jpg

This is basically a quick fix solution and not one I would use on my own cars. If trim is faded, I would deep clean it with APC and an IPA wipe down, the treat with Solution Finish.

If trim is otherwise in decent condition, I treat it with Carpro Reload. This is a ceramic spray sealant which works really well on black trim. I like this because it doesn't create gloss, just a deeper/richer tone. It also doesn't wash away when it rains or if when you wash the car. That applies to Solution Finish as well.

Don't waste time using a plastic or rubber dressing, you need to apply it after every wash/rain for it to be effective.
Thanks for the reply. I do have a bottle of Mothers Back To Black in my arsenal.
 
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