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Did you OSB?

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BellyUpFish

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A prophetic statement.



We are now seeing the anti-OSB posts even though the OP clearly stated - "Did you OSB". I was surprised that the first page was mostly clear. I wasn't the valedictorian in my high school graduating class but I was somewhere close if you divide my ranking by two and then multiply by 10. I did manage to grasp the concept of reading comprehension though.



Yeh, I was impressed by the lack of negative comments in the start.

I agree though, OSB doesn’t look as nice as drywall, but I also don’t think I’d mind the look.

I’m thinking about grabbing a sheet, painting it and hanging it in the shop just to get a feel for it.

I really, REALLY don’t want to sand and mud a 36x48 worth of drywall... Thought about paying someone, but my stuff is already in the garage. I’d be fighting dust for the next 100 years..


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James-W

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Yeh, I was impressed by the lack of negative comments in the start.

I agree though, OSB doesn’t look as nice as drywall, but I also don’t think I’d mind the look.

I’m thinking about grabbing a sheet, painting it and hanging it in the shop just to get a feel for it.

I really, REALLY don’t want to sand and mud a 36x48 worth of drywall... Thought about paying someone, but my stuff is already in the garage. I’d be fighting dust for the next 100 years..


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I have said this before, but I don't think most people believe me. Do yourself a favor and try this. Take the OSB and apply a thin coat of drywall compound to it. Let it dry. Apply a thin second coat of drywall compound. Let it dry. If you prefer, you can texture it as well. Once dry, use a good quality primer and give it a good coat. When that dries, apply a coat of high quality paint. The OSB will look just like drywall

If you put OSB on the walls/ceiling and you sand the seams down and then tape and mud the seams with drywall compound, then mud all the OSB with drywall compound, let it dry and do a second coat (texture it if you want) followed by primer and paint, you will have it looking like drywall. If anyone doubts that, all you need do is try it for yourself.
 

like2wheel

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I have said this before, but I don't think most people believe me. Do yourself a favor and try this. Take the OSB and apply a thin coat of drywall compound to it. Let it dry. Apply a thin second coat of drywall compound. Let it dry. If you prefer, you can texture it as well. Once dry, use a good quality primer and give it a good coat. When that dries, apply a coat of high quality paint. The OSB will look just like drywall

If you put OSB on the walls/ceiling and you sand the seams down and then tape and mud the seams with drywall compound, then mud all the OSB with drywall compound, let it dry and do a second coat (texture it if you want) followed by primer and paint, you will have it looking like drywall. If anyone doubts that, all you need do is try it for yourself.

Did you even read the text you quoted??

He said he doesn't mind the look of osb, and he " really, REALLY don’t want to sand and mud a 36x48 worth of drywall..."

You're telling him to not only mud the seams of the sheets (just like he didn't want to do with drywall), but also mud the WHOLE BOARD!

TWICE!!

I think he already has a good idea that people are satisfied with the look and performance of osb.
 
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pbon

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I have had rough working garages and barns. Now I want a working garage that looks more like a showroom. Working on cars is a hobby for me and I’d like to be in pleasant surroundings. I am refinishing my current better than the past ones. I did read about the mudded OSB but that is about the same work as drywall and I already have 1 inch pine on most of my walls and ceilings (old wood carriage house).

The advantage of the OSB would be that it does not break if you smash something into it and you can hang stuff from it. If I was building from scratch rather than renovating, I would have considered mudded OSB. If I wanted a less finished shop then just painted OSB would be fine. But this is probably my last shop and I want it to be very nice.
 

James-W

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Did you even read the text you quoted??

He said he doesn't mind the look of osb, and he " really, REALLY don’t want to sand and mud a 36x48 worth of drywall..."

You're telling him to not only mud the seams of the sheets (just like he didn't want to do with drywall), but also mud the WHOLE BOARD!

TWICE!!

I think he already has a good idea that people are satisfied with the look and performance of osb.
I read what he said and I understood it perfectly. He said he wanted to paint some OSB and see how he likes it. He also said that he had thought about hiring someone to do drywall. I proceeded to explain how he could make the painted OSB look just like drywall.

Apparently you don't want people to know that OSB can look just like drywall if you prep it right before painting. There is no reason why someone can't have the benefits of OSB and the look of finished drywall at the same time. Sure, it takes a little work, most worthwhile projects don't come easy, but the end results are more than worth it. Since you are having difficulty understanding that basic concept there is little point in discussing it with you.
 

Bert_

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Well...you've got shops for working in, and you have shops for looks.

I agree 100%. The only nice looking sheetrocked garages I have seen personally were on relatively new houses and were used for parking only.

I have seen older sheetrocked garages and they usually look like **** after 30 years with many dents and some holes. Generally looks beat up.

Painted osb looks very nice in my opinion.
 

Jamie V

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I wanted the finished look and am using drywall. Fancier shop with checkerboard tile floor and NewAge cabinets.



Mine is 3/4” OSB on the walls & 7/16 OSB on the ceiling. Been about 4-5 years now and I’m still happy I went that route.

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Jamie V

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Oh, I sanded all the seams first then caulked the joints. Primed with oil based primer then painted with a gloss paint.

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kaiser715

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For those that used OSB with a red-iron or pole building, how did you frame out for the osb? I have a red-iron, and have used metal track and studs for my interior partitions. I can use that or wood framing to fill in between on the outside walls.

If I used ribbed metal panels, I can span the 7-8' vertical between purlins, and only have to put an L strip down on the floor.
 

LXCam

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For those that used OSB with a red-iron or pole building, how did you frame out for the osb? I have a red-iron, and have used metal track and studs for my interior partitions. I can use that or wood framing to fill in between on the outside walls.

If I used ribbed metal panels, I can span the 7-8' vertical between purlins, and only have to put an L strip down on the floor.



I use hat track for this app. If your building is typical your girts are 5ft on center right? I use 10ft sticks vertical 2' OC attached to the butted edge (column to girt) This way you only lose 1.5" of floor space verses 3.5". Framing on the inside and finishing to the girt is such a PITA I'd rather lose a little floor space and not fight finishing it.
 
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555

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I have a 30 x 24 building we use as storage. It has OSB on the walls that is probably 40 years old. The OSB was sealed and painted with gloss white enamel when the it was installed. I've not done a thing to it and neither did the previous owner. It has held up extremely well.
 

kbs2244

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It seem the 1950's saying regarding customs vs hot rods applies

"Show or go. Take your pick".
 

6768rogues

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I used OSB on my shop walls 20 years ago, and put three coats of cheap bargain store paint on it. Now it is getting ready for its first repaint. Still as good as new.
 
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5/8 osb on the walls, 3/4 osb on the walls with my garage door. Love it. Detached garage so no issue with fire code. Didn't paint it but put up bright white metal siding on the roof inside with good Led lighting, no problem with darkness. Ties the building together better and you can hit walls with projects accidentally and you won't scuff or scrape the wall. 20170621_171233.jpegIMG_20170621_180601_662.jpg

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PeterT

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Did mine in 2011 and its is perfect, even with the short pieces on the floor because my studs weren't perfect...hhehheheee.

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jd_1138

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What's the difference in price between OSB and plywood? I think it'd just be a few hundred dollars more for plywood depending on how large the garage is. Might be best to just get plywood if the price is not too much more.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both I guess.
 
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pbon

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OSB is tongue and groove. Plywood is flat edge. Marine grade plywood was something I considered, however, for my floor but went with advantech OSB.
 

NUTTSGT

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OSB is tongue and groove. Plywood is flat edge. Marine grade plywood was something I considered, however, for my floor but went with advantech OSB.

Not quite. All plywood and OSB can be bought with a flat/straight edge and generally that's how it is bought.

Tongue & groove (T&G) can found in both products also and is generally used as subflooring when 3/4" thick. T&G can also be found as thin as 5/8" and just over an inch thick.

Some builders will use tongue and groove as roof sheathing and others have used it as wall covering.
 

38Chevy454

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Count me as another OSB happy camper. I paint two coats of white Kilz oil based type paint, and it's fine. Working garage as stated by others. I did my old shop with it, and then repeated for new shop. Both of my detached shop were conventional stick frame construction, and i used 7/16 OSB.
 

zmotorsports

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I did sheetrock, mud, tape and paint on the walls in my shop but OSB in the RV/storage bay with merely primer and white paint. It looks ok but glad I did sheetrock in the shop. I have my metal storage rack and a few other items hanging on the wall in the storage bay and the OSB works well for that. I just prefer the looks of smooth sheetrock to the look of OSB is all.
 

Pathfinders

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I am in the process of pulling down 25 year old paneling in my detached 24x28 garage and will be installing OSB and painting it white. I work on motorcycles, cars and lawn equipment in the the garage. Would I like a show garage? Hell yes, but that is not in the cards for another 15 years.
 

wesst

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Close, but not technically OSB. I used LP Smart Siding without grooves primed in 4’x8’ sheets from Menards. I wanted something with a bit “different” finish than OSB, and it is certainly easier to paint provided it is primed. I am just finishing up the details like filling the screw holes and trimming everything, however I am pleased with the product.

The cost is more compared with OSB, however OSB is not cheap either. I do not regret it and would do it the same way over again.

Most people tend to look at my garage build and ask “why did you do it that way” about many of its features, but it’s exactly what I wanted in the location I wanted. Although I have taken some criticism in my build, I always encourage others to do what they want, not what others think you should do, as that’s what makes garage builds interesting.

(I should have added, the posts were designed to be exposed, and 2x6 walls were essentially built between the posts.)
 

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wood02

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Twenty-seven years...1/2" x 4' x 8' OSB on the walls of my 24' x 32' garage/mancave. I used 1-1/4" dry wall screws every 10 or so inches into the wall studs. No painting or sealing.
I have had to remove a sheet or two to run more electrical circuits. Replacement is no problem. I need to learn how to post pictures!!!
 

kckndrgn

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what thickness OSB is everyone using? I'll be starting to put it up soon and I'm looking at the 2 main thicknesses available. 7/16 and 19/32 seem to be most common for straight edge, and 23/32 for tongue and groove.

Thanks.
 

Falcon67

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7/16 is what I used. As far as price, I paid $8/sheet when I built. OSB pricing moves around so that could affect potential choices. "A few hundrerd dollars" - anything other than OSB would have doubled my costs at the time. LP SmartSide is nice stuff, around $26/sheet here last I checked. And when I built plywood was big money, $15+ a sheet or more locally. I used about 64 sheets of OSB.
 

nh_yota

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As someone who's done a good bit of drywall installation and repair over the years, I can't see how skim-coating OSB would survive expansion and contraction of the OSB without cracking.
 

James-W

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As someone who's done a good bit of drywall installation and repair over the years, I can't see how skim-coating OSB would survive expansion and contraction of the OSB without cracking.
One wall in my basement has OSB on it. It was skim-coated with drywall compound, textured, primed and painted, and looks exactly like drywall. This was done several years ago and not one crack.
 
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BellyUpFish

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what thickness OSB is everyone using? I'll be starting to put it up soon and I'm looking at the 2 main thicknesses available. 7/16 and 19/32 seem to be most common for straight edge, and 23/32 for tongue and groove.

Thanks.

I'll be doing 7/16 walls and ceiling, I think.

I'm about 95% sure I'm doing OSB on the walls, still contemplating something different for the ceiling, but I'll likely go OSB..
 

slick84pb

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Yes, and while it's held up pretty well, I feel sheetrock just reflects light better. Painting will help, but I don't think it bridges the gap.

I know it's personal preference, but my 2c. I'm starting to plan a new build after moving, and fully intend to use sheetrock this time.
 

Copymutt

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As someone who's done a good bit of drywall installation and repair over the years, I can't see how skim-coating OSB would survive expansion and contraction of the OSB without cracking.

7/16 OSB interior walls, skim coated and textured since 1995. Only two spots that joint tape let loose, minor. Nice to hang things anywhere. Never had a screw let loose. For heavy shelves, hit the studs. Sheetrock on the ceiling.
 
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