Difference between Polyurea and Epoxy?

[RTcat]

Okay, the more I dig into potential coverings for my fresh, virgin concrete floor, the more confused I get .

What is the difference between the "epoxies" sold by the vendors on this site and Polyurea?

Christine, Scotty and the other vendors...do you sell a Polyurea?

Can I simply put down Polyurea and call it good to go?


Below is a product I found while searching the net for concreate floor coverings. I'm curious how this (Polyurea) stacks up against an Epoxy...


xxxx is a two-part, high solids, high build sealer designed for use on concrete or masonry surfaces. xxxxx allows for single coat high film thickness in a water clear finish. xxxx provides a very smooth, mirror like finish not attainable with any other product. In addition, xxxx does not yellow or deteriorate under UV rays, it is highly resistant to chemicals and will greatly increase the useful life of any surface it’s applied on.

xxxx is a Polyurea sealer made with premium resins, it is non-yellowing and resistant to oil, gasoline, grease, acid, deicing salts, ultra violet rays, wet and dry abrasion, and most household chemicals. xxxx contains unique resins and solvent formulations designed for maximum penetration into the concrete pores providing great adhesion to the surface. It enhances the depth and color of natural surfaces and provides a long lasting protective, mirror like finish that’s ideal for decorative concrete surfaces.

TECHNICAL DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
Coverage Rate ...............................................200 to 400 ft2 per kit
Packaging ......................................................................2 gallon Kit
VOC .............................................................................0 Gms x liter
Color ..............................................................................Water clear
Water Miscible ............................................................................No
Solids ......................................................................................65 %
Shelf Life ................................................................................1 year
Recoat Time ................................................................2 to 4 hours
Application Temperature .............................................35°F to 85°F
Flash Point ...........................................................................114 ° F
CHEMICAL RESISTANCE
Reagent: Rating:
Transmission Fluid ............................................................No effect
Gasoline ............................................................................No Effect
Motor Oil ...........................................................................No effect
5% Sulfuric Acid ...............................................................No effect
30% Hydrochloric Acid .....................................................No effect
Detergent ..........................................................................No effect

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

We sell polyaspartic and epoxy.
Here are a few thoughts...

We recommend the polyaspartic for:
Fast Turnaround (dry in one hour)
Cold Weather floors (can be used into the teens if need be)
(3) Coats in one day (primer, base, topcoat)
Anyone needing a SUPER CLEAR, CHEMICAL RESISTANT, ABRASION RESISTANT topcoat.

A professional flooring company can stock our clear polyaspartic, keep color packets on hand and be ready for any flooring request in a moment's notice.

This product is versatile and saves time. However, it sets up really fast and may be a little intimidating to a one time DIY'er.

If you call us asking for an easy to use floor coating we will send you to our epoxy products.

Lastly, Polyurea and Polyaspartic are close cousins. There are some subtle differences that will bore most of you.

 

[RTcat]

Scotty,

Thanks much for the info. I noticed you highlighted CHEMICAL RESISTANT. Which is more CHEMICAL RESISTANT, your epoxy product or your polyaspartic product?

Also, is the quick set-up time your reasoning for it being "more intimidating? Other than the set-up time, is it still mixing part A with Part B and stirring for a specified time, at a specified speed and applying with a roller?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Scotty,

Thanks much for the info. I noticed you highlighted CHEMICAL RESISTANT. Which is more CHEMICAL RESISTANT, your epoxy product or your polyaspartic product?

Also, is the quick set-up time your reasoning for it being "more intimidating? Other than the set-up time, is it still mixing part A with Part B and stirring for a specified time, at a specified speed and applying with a roller?

Polyaspartic is more chem resistant.

Yes, it's the set-up time. However, if you are careful and don't try to play with it too much you can be successful. The cooler weather would help slow it down a bit as well.

Yes, same routine as the other coatings.

 

[Elite Crete Australia]

Polyaspartics cure by the cross linking of the polyamines with aliphatic polyisocyanates, not by the temperature or humidity like you will see with epoxies.

 

[tbear1]

Polyaspartics cure by the cross linking of the polyamines with aliphatic polyisocyanates, not by the temperature or humidity like you will see with epoxies.

I am moving into a new construction home in January. Can the polyaspartics or polyurea products be applied in freezing temperatures?

It would be nice to apply the floor coating before moving into the garage.

Glenn

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Our product can be. I wouldn't go below 10 degrees and I would store indoors until "go" time.

 

[rugerlady]

The polyureas are a bit stronger and more chemical resistant but they do not bond as well to concrete as the epoxy. The polyurea does set up quicker and is a bit more intimidating for a DIY'er.
That being said, I do sell both. I will not recommend the poly to alot of people that I do not feel can work with it properly. For most applications the epoxy we sell is more than what they will need in terms of durability.

 

[brent_strong]

What coatings would stand up best to dragging a floor jack around and using jackstands?

 

[rugerlady]

I thik the epoxy with a poly top coat is your best bet. You would get the best of both worlds. A good bond to the concrete and a really tough shell.

 

[brent_strong]

I was considering the Epoxy-Coat from Lowes, would I need to get the poly top coat directly from you to go with that?

 

[rugerlady]

Yes, the poly would need to be purchased directly from me.

 

[srode]

Christine, will a Poly top coat prevent UV discoloration of an Epoxy coat base color?

 

[rugerlady]

Yes, it will prevent the ambering.

 

[thegarageguy]

depending on the polyurethane, it will slow down the yellowing process but I have found that polyaspartics eliminate the ambering process

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

depending on the polyurethane, it will slow down the yellowing process but I have found that polyaspartics eliminate the ambering process

Ma Don!! Fernando we've been hacking away at this one for a few days now. Bout time you joined us.

In addition to the characteristic Mr. Franco described, you will not find a more "clear" product, it's remarkable.

 

[Cruzin90]

Polyaspartics cure by the cross linking of the polyamines with aliphatic polyisocyanates, not by the temperature or humidity like you will see with epoxies.

That's incorrect. Polyaspartics are moisture cure. The isocyanate (hardener) needs hydrogen to complete the reaction with the resin. The hydrogen comes from water in the air. Hence, the higher humidity, the faster dry time. If you need to slow down the reaction, you can add up to 15% Xylol (xylene) into a 100% solids polyaspartic.

Other polyureas (polyol resin and isocyanate) do not need hydrogen. Mix the two and they react and harden in seconds.

 

[Voi]

Reading this thread has made me wonder if a clear polyurea/polyaspartic would be a good choice for top-coating VCT? I know some people use an epoxy primer and then a UV resistant polyurethane over VCT.

Curious if a clear polyurea would bond to a scuff sanded VCT? Or would it also need an epoxy primer?

 

[Voi]

Looks like there are polyurea topcoats specifically for VCT. I'd post a link or two but I'm posting from my phone at the moment.

 

[Cruzin90]

For VCT, it's recommended that you first de-wax the VCT then grind with a 60-grit screen.

 

[Quantum Coatings]

That's incorrect. Polyaspartics are moisture cure. The isocyanate (hardener) needs hydrogen to complete the reaction with the resin. The hydrogen comes from water in the air. Hence, the higher humidity, the faster dry time. If you need to slow down the reaction, you can add up to 15% Xylol (xylene) into a 100% solids polyaspartic.

Other polyureas (polyol resin and isocyanate) do not need hydrogen. Mix the two and they react and harden in seconds.

Polyaspartics can cure just fine without the presence of water. However, water does catalyze the cure speed. One component 'polyureas' are entirely moisture cure, but are a different animal.

Polyaspartics, like any other coating, can be formulated to application requirements. For roller application slower is obvisously better, but you can get fast set versions that set in seconds to minutes that can be sprayed through a proportioner as well.

Also, not to nitpick, but polyurea = AMINE resin + isocyanate

They can be a pain for DIY but used properly polyaspartics have a lot of upside, especially 100% solids!

 

[Cruzin90]

Also, not to nitpick, but polyurea = AMINE resin + isocyanate

Oops, was thinking polyurea, but typed polyurethane.

LINE-X Aspart-X is a moisture cure polyaspartic.

 

[J_T_P]

Moisture cure urethanes do react to form polyurea films. Isocyanate + water creates an amine which then reacts with the isocyanate to give the polyurea.

 

[Cruzin90]

Moisture cure urethanes do react to form polyurea films. Isocyanate + water creates an amine which then reacts with the isocyanate to give the polyurea.

I believe the reaction you're talking about is in regard to the creation of foams where carbon dioxide is released. I don't think the reaction is related to polyaspartics.