Different size baseboards?

[Mihlfeldl2005]

So I live in a cookie cutter house in a subdivision. IE the builders special. I'm in the process of repainting and replacing floors and am starting to think ahead about what to do with the baseboards. The current baseboards are 3 1/4 El cheapos from Lowes/HD and run throughout the house.

I am redoing the entire first floor minus the sunken living room to include door trim as my new floor is quite a bit skinnier than the old engineered floor.

In removing the trim I found quite a few drywall issues that were covered by the trim to the point that fixing them could add quite a bit of time onto the project.

I'm debating just using 4 1/4 trim in the same style for the entire first floor and having it transition to the 3 1/4 where it goes up the stairs to the second level. I know it's not ideal but it would hide the old paint/caulk line very well and hopefully save me a lot of time.

Thoughts? Over thinking it?

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[James-W]

I would use the same baseboard trim throughout the house. If it means fixing the drywall, then do that. Or, use the taller baseboard but do it for the whole house. Depending on your house, the shorter baseboard might look better. In older homes the taller baseboard seems to fit the decor better, in newer homes the shorter baseboard seems more appropriate.

 

[Michigan Mike]

You might check and see if your style of baseboard is availible in 3 3/4. Thats what I did when I went from carpet to cortec vinyl plank in my house. I am pleased whith the result. Its only 1/2 inch bigger but covered most of my drywall issues.

 

[CraigStu]

I'd use the wider (taller?) baseboard trim in a heartbeat. I did that two houses ago. It's not hard to transition to the narrower trim at one of the joints for the stairs. I knew it was there but no one else ever noticed. People really don't come into you house and wander around looking for mismatched trim. Just do it.

 

[yeldogt]

It's not uncommon to use different sized baseboards ... why is the floor thinner?

Trim is house and quality specific -- I have seen $2 trim on 10 cent houses and it looks silly and quite often 10 cent trim on $2 houses.

Most lumber yards sell a higher level finger jointed primed trim that works quite well in builder grade houses. I agree with some above --- get one that big enough to hide the wall flaw line .. and if using a shoe you can set it up a bit higher still.

Nicer trim is not only larger -- but it's thicker. Match the thickness to other trim in the house.

 

[Mihlfeldl2005]

Thanks for all the replies.

I plan on going with this...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/EverTrue-4...ard-Moulding-Actual-4-25-in-x-8-ft/1000445071

As it is the same profile as the 3 1/4" that I currently have. I agree with the above statements that I'll probably be the only one to notice it so I think I'm definitely leaning that way.

The new floor I'm putting down is LVP from Mannington, it's about 3mm thinner than the engineered that was in there and I didn't want to use quarter round if I didn't have too. So I pulled all the baseboard to move it down not thinking about it exposing the caulk/paint line from the previous installation.



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[Innovate1]

Go with the same profile and the larger size. It won't be that obvious. You can use plinth blocks if you have any places to transition that don't have other breaks. I used smaller in the baths because it goes under the toe kicks and is much easier to install and have it look good but larger in the main rooms. No on has ever mentioned it.

 

[JRC3]

Don't use horrible MDF. It would cost you $225 for 120' of what you posted. Instead get a contractor pack of...

$88.80

EverTrue 3-1/4-in x 12-ft Pine Primed Finger Joint Baseboard Moulding (Actual: 3.25-in x 12-ft)
Item #208770Model #C 62312FJPMD
Multiple pieces bundled into a single package

10-piece bundle - 120ft total contractor pack

Colonial style finger-jointed pine

I didn't post a link because I think the item numbers might be different depending on locale...These are usually locally sourced.

HD carries similar. Both Lowes and HD you'll probably have to ask were the contractor packs are located, they often place them out of view of the individual pieces on an endcap or something.

 

[Mihlfeldl2005]

Don't use horrible MDF. It would cost you $225 for 120' of what you posted. Instead get a contractor pack of...







I didn't post a link because I think the item numbers might be different depending on locale...These are usually locally sourced.



HD carries similar. Both Lowes and HD you'll probably have to ask were the contractor packs are located, they often place them out of view of the individual pieces on an endcap or something.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a contractor pack in the 4 1/4". I'm going to call some lumber supply houses around me and see if they have any advice or are about to beat HD/Lowes pricing.

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[JRC3]

Also don't forget the shoe moulding. Don't use regular 1/4 round. Shoe moulding has a less bulky profile and looks way better. It covers the gaps and gives the baseboard more depth while protecting it.

And don't forget to cut the caulking along the drywall with a utility knife before removal so the paper doesn't tear. This is where shoe moulding is once again beneficial as you should be able to raise the new baseboard a tad to cover the the score line and old caulk.

 

[karoc]

One thing that I learned is never will use mdf baseboard again.And not to use it around window seal again

 

[nadogail]

Your flooring supplier should be able to show you a nice selection to choose from.

My Flooring Store was very helpful.

 

[Kaizen]

I used mdf from Lowes in my living room ten years ago for crown and baseboard. Baseboard is 7.5 tall with wood shoe molding. Holds paint and glue well. Mine are dirty but this has how it held up. The damage at the corner of this traffic area would have been same with wood. I guess if you have water issues or high unconditioned humidity it would be a problem. Also would not use in door trim or impact areas







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[usa#1]

I'd use speedbase. Most likely 5 1/4". If painting use MDF. Go to a building supply place. You should be able to buy it in 16ft lengths for something like .60/ft.

 

[glentre]

You might want to look into using white 1/2" pvc quarter round at the floor line. Glue it to the base board using Loktite or similar in caulk tube form. Don't glue it to the floor because your floating floor needs to move. No finishing nails or filling and painting required and it looks good. It also makes for a fast installation. Available at the big box stores.

Glen

 

[Mihlfeldl2005]

You might want to look into using white 1/2" pvc quarter round at the floor line. Glue it to the base board using Loktite or similar in caulk tube form. Don't glue it to the floor because your floating floor needs to move. No finishing nails or filling and painting required and it looks good. It also makes for a fast installation. Available at the big box stores.

Glen

I've already removed all the trim otherwise I would look into it. I found a local supplier that has 4 1/4" x 16' sections available pre primed so I think I'll be picking that up

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[JRC3]

Cope those inside corners.

 

[k1rodeoboater]

Having removed carpet and put in LVP I'd recommend you go with taller baseboards. There's a "ratio" of sorts in regards to baseboard heights and ceiling heights. I ended up repariing the drywall and re-using the builder grade special MDF just to keep costs down and get the job done faster. We didn't use any quarter round or shoe molding as I ran the flooring to 1/8" from the bottom plates. Looks way cleaner and if I have to redo the first floor (cheap **** laminate flooring is already failing in places) I'll seriously consider removing the baseboards and doing that again. It looks way cleaner IMO. That said the quarter round does a really good job of protecting the baseboard so it's a catch 22 if you use MDF baseboards

And +1 to coping the corners and doing a good job fitting your angles on outside corners.

 

[3onthetree]

There's a "ratio" of sorts in regards to baseboard heights and ceiling heights.

^^^this

It also depends on what other millwork you have in your house, like crown, wainscot, and the level of detail. I see you are picking the "Colonial" profile, which is a step more intricate, so if you are redoing the entire house and adding casing to doors I would guess a short baseboard would look disproportionate with lots of white millwork around. And if you are doing a shoe you want a taller baseboard too 4.25-5.25.

I personally haven't had any problems with MDF, but you have to stick to either MDF or pine/poplar as the same "architectural style" will vary in profile.

 

[yeldogt]

Don't use MDF .... MDF has its uses. It seems like a good idea for trim ... but it's not. Years ago prior to advancements with finger jointed trim there was a large price difference ... today this is not the case. Wood is easier to work with and is much stronger at the corners ...and has no water issues or nail issues.

Again -- note the thickness .... a lot of cheap trim is very thin.

 

[Mihlfeldl2005]

Local wood supplier has 16' trim in the style I'm looking for in a 4 1/4" finger jointed pine. That's the current plan, I haven't priced it out yet but I'm willing to pay a bit more for wood based upon everyone's guidance here. It'll be getting painted with a semi gloss white, so I'm not horribly worried about the grain

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[PelicanPines]

Semi gloss white finish. Don't forget to prime if its raw wood.

 

[yeldogt]

Local wood supplier has 16' trim in the style I'm looking for in a 4 1/4" finger jointed pine. That's the current plan, I haven't priced it out yet but I'm willing to pay a bit more for wood based upon everyone's guidance here. It'll be getting painted with a semi gloss white, so I'm not horribly worried about the grain

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I know it sounds like an extra step -- But -- even if it comes primed ... a quick coat of oil primer will make for a great top coat.