cvairwerks
Well-known member
Never seen one that does 0-50 lb\in.... and is less than 8" long.
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Digital vs Mechanical TW
- Thread starter boom_bap
- Start date
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Never seen one that does 0-50 lb\in.... and is less than 8" long.
I have a 12" that does 20-300? It's the newer metal body tech angle.
You're 100% right, mechanical is often smaller. Big advantage depending on application.
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Definitely on the size. We have one location that we regularly have to torque an item that is so tight that it's generally done by pushing on the torque wrench with a couple of finger tips. Opposite side of the airplane and you use a piece of string tie to pull the wrench. Access is so tight that the wrench is generally held in place with one or two fingers and then pushed by one or two of the opposite hand. We've got a few guys that can't even get a hand in to put the wrench in place.I have a 12" that does 20-300? It's the newer metal body tech angle.
You're 100% right, mechanical is often smaller. Big advantage depending on application.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Definitely on the size. We have one location that we regularly have to torque an item that is so tight that it's generally done by pushing on the torque wrench with a couple of finger tips. Opposite side of the airplane and you use a piece of string tie to pull the wrench. Access is so tight that the wrench is generally held in place with one or two fingers and then pushed by one or two of the opposite hand. We've got a few guys that can't even get a hand in to put the wrench in place.
Sounds like it was designed improperly. LOL
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Nope. Often, we have very limited space for equipment on aircraft. There are installations that have to be removed to gain access to other installations....nature of the beast.Sounds like it was designed improperly. LOL
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Thread Brump. Dunno if I made the wrong choice...I have a 1/2 Split PI, 3/4 Proto and full suite 1/4+---> Digital CDI Suite.
Had a HF Icon 15% - picked up their 3/8 Split. Seems like a decent built tool - sure cost less less than any of the above listed.
Haven't seen any negative thread responses on this HF/Tekton Split Beam model yet. Somewhat undecided....this thing seems just a smidge Long
Had a HF Icon 15% - picked up their 3/8 Split. Seems like a decent built tool - sure cost less less than any of the above listed.
Haven't seen any negative thread responses on this HF/Tekton Split Beam model yet. Somewhat undecided....this thing seems just a smidge Long
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Hohn
Well-known member
Tests on YT suggest the Icon split beam is pretty accurate out of the box and holds cal for 2500 cycles.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
Leaning on returning it. Just unboxed it. She's a bit unwieldy long
Hohn
Well-known member
Well, if the engineers did their homework correctly, the angle spec should always be a multiple of 60 or 90 degrees. Which means just so many flats on the hex (mark it) or half-rotations.You can download an angle finder app free on any smart phone to find X degrees past torque value. May be a touch awkward to hold it next to the torque wrench, but it works.
Torque plus angle is a big improvement over straight torque, but we're still talking ±15% variation vs ±30%. So while torque+angle is twice as precise as straight torque, it's still pretty terrible overall in terms of tension consistency.
Certainly terrible enough that a couple degrees of variation in your tightening is not consequential.
You can buy really cheap and reasonably accurate angle displacement gauges or extensions - but what is far more important to appreciate IMHO is that once you start from the pre-torque position you need to keep moving at a constant rate to the angular target. Slip/stick events can leave you in the wrong place by a fair bit. This is my biggest ***** about specs that are something like 270 degrees - almost impossible to do reaching into an engine bay without stopping at least once.
Hohn
Well-known member
Right, but the higher number of degrees of rotation is designed to split the torgue and angle in such a way that biases it more towards the angle. The more angle and the lower the torque, the more precise and consistent the amount of stretch is. This is why you see angles like 270 and I don't think the specs I've seen or developed really considered whether it was all in one go or involved a ratchet or such.You can buy really cheap and reasonably accurate angle displacement gauges or extensions - but what is far more important to appreciate IMHO is that once you start from the pre-torque position you need to keep moving at a constant rate to the angular target. Slip/stick events can leave you in the wrong place by a fair bit. This is my biggest ***** about specs that are something like 270 degrees - almost impossible to do reaching into an engine bay without stopping at least once.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Well, if the engineers did their homework correctly, the angle spec should always be a multiple of 60 or 90 degrees. Which means just so many flats on the hex (mark it) or half-rotations.
Torque plus angle is a big improvement over straight torque, but we're still talking ±15% variation vs ±30%. So while torque+angle is twice as precise as straight torque, it's still pretty terrible overall in terms of tension consistency.
Certainly terrible enough that a couple degrees of variation in your tightening is not consequential.
What it really comes down to is that the academia level discussions about clamping force, preload, etc aren't particularly valuable.
While torque plus angle IS factually more precise, that level of detail is typically not functionally relevant to assembling things.
I am just a DIY mechanic though I have done a lot over time.What are peoples opinions of digital vs mechanical torque wrenches? I'm in the market for a torque wrench (maybe 2) that I can trust.
I've read around a bit and I see people recommending the CDI, the PI, the Snap-On, etc.
I see people saying their $20 harbor freight is just as good. I don't see much recommendation of digital.
Currently, I have a 1/4 Tekton 20-200 in lb, wrench that I use for torqueing belly pans, and intake gaskets, valve covers etc. I have no idea if I can trust it, but nothing has leaked so far and its solved my problems. I also have an ACDelco 1/2 14.4-150 digital adapter I use for torquing lugs.
I've read so many varying opinions on what is good and what isn't I have no idea at this point, what to buy. I have a hard time buying Icon just because harbor freight, but didn't hesitate to buy a US General 5 drawer cart from them (which is awesome). As an example, some people have nothing but bad things to say about PI (over torqing bolts etc), while most say they're great.. So which is it? I'm guessing those people just don't know what their doing?
I am looking for a 1/2 and maybe even a 3/8 so I can bridge the gap between the 16.6 lbfts of the 1/4 and the common 30 ftlbs of most 1/2 wrenches.
I am leaning away from digital because batteries sound annoying, however if they are more accurate for the lifespan of the tool, then I'll go that route I suppose. I am a diyier, non-pro, who does all the maintenance on my truck and sedan. I enjoy the work and challenge, but I don't want to be out fixing **** every weekend if you know what I mean. I do like quality tools, but I understand there is a middle ground. Prefer made in usa, but sometimes that is out of the budget. Hopefully that paints the picture. I just care about a tool that does the job well everytime I need it to.
In my experience, I like mechanical click type torque wrenches with flex heads (helps positioning before getting a reading). You should store them at a low setting to keep the spring calibrated. I get the sense that many people on GJ over think the absolute accuracy part. Being ~10% off is NOT a big issue for most applications. I very much doubt the engineering or material considerations warrant more. Consistency is more the key: each fastener on flanges etc have consistent fastener to fastener torque rather than an accurate absolute value of torque. Some people act like tire lugs need to be high absolute accuracy (err ... really?). Lubrication on threads also changes the effective torque applied if you want to get particular. But again, the need for high accuracy should not be there for most applications. It is easy to check a torque wrench with some weights and a tape measure. Verify it clicks with close to the specified torque by measuring from the axis to the point you apply the weight (say with a rope for a clear measurement point). Every time I check, mine seem close to spot on (combination of used matco I bought 2nd hand and older domestic Craftsman).
Curiously, you can buy digital torque adapters (they are quite reasonably priced) to check your mechanical clickers and/or use on their own. For example:
These are accurate (not sure why ... but seems technology used is cheap, reproducible, and stable) and can also be used with conventional wrenches/sockets/extensions to fit in most anywhere so they provide great value and versatility. So you can use them to be the poor man's equivalent of super expensive digital Snap On style wrenches.
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