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Disappointing Proto Warranty Experience

64C10

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Mar 12, 2022
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Globe, Az
Putting aside the drama, let's look at what went wrong mechanically and how we can fix it.

Besides the Facom/USAG kits I mentioned earlier, I remembered that you could also check stock with MAC dealers since they use the same round heads.

That said, there are 6 components in the head besides the handle (anvil, heart spring, selector dial, spinning plate, and torx fastener). The two photos of the anvil you posted look fine, I would be more interested in what the heart spring or the teeth on the handle and pawl look like in order to suggest repair options.
You make a very good point. I’ve got a later production Craftsman RHFT (the tri-wing ones) that had the heart spring get loose (torx screw backed out) and allowed the anvil/pawl to get one tooth out of time, causing my ratchet not to ratchet properly.

Once I got the gear timing figured out, a good cleaning and some ISO 32 hydraulic oil had it acting even better than new.
 
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Etchase

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Many companies copied this ratchet style, including Stanley before they bought Facom and Williams. It could be argued to be the pinnacle of round head design. Improper assembly is the predominant failure mode in the used market it seems, as is the grease turning to tar around the pawl. The nib breaking off the selector switch was a problem with the Williams. I would mail the thing in. That’s what is offered for the warranty. Or just forget about it. $40 ratchet is kind of a toss up for me.
 
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Boogerman

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I like Proto. Hard to see them go down on quality and service, but that's the real issue here. We expect top quality and service, but SBD bought the name, and is using up the goodwill in the name while cheapening the product and service. Just like they did with Black and Decker and other names they bought.

I started out buying Proto, when it was expensive, but could be warrantied just by going into Willet Brothers parts store and handing them the broken one, and getting a new on off the wall board. Except if it was discontinued, then it was too bad.

Eventually, Willet Bros switched to SK, and I bought some metric tools from them, because I could no longer warranty Proto. The wrenches were great. The sockets were an experiment in alternative metallurgy and failed miserably. I bought Snap-on sockets instead, and they were universally great. Because of the great experience with the quality, I simply shifted my tool purchase over to Snap-on; the cost was worth it to have tools that actually worked right, and were readily available. The warranty and service were just bonus; and helped make the high cost more tolerable.

I just warrantied the struts on my top box. I looked up the receipt for that box, it was $2982 total cost in 1998. I can buy a pretty similar USG HF box for $599.99 list price today. Snap on sent me two $36 struts, that I could have just bought generic ones for $20 a pair on Amazon. Worth it? You be the judge. The box has worked for over 25 years for me, and is still in perfect condition. They've warrantied some latches before, again a somewhat trivial cost. But, for 25 years, I've not had to worry about the quality of that box. I don't miss the $2300 dollars extra that were spent to get it (even though HF couldn't have provided that box 25 years ago). But, I do appreciate that it's worked flawlessly for 25 years, and had small defects immediately corrected by the manufacturer at no cost. Spread out over 25 years, $100 or so per year to have a flawlessly operating upper box doesn't seem excessive. Unless you think a toolbox should cost $300 and last forever.

I recently had an expensive pair of work boots fail me, on nearly their first use. They're not cheap, at about $200; not top of the line, the top of the line is $699 and have 4 to 6 month lead time. My identical last pair performed flawlessly throughout their expected lifetime. I'm pondering what to do: 1) Should I try to get them warrantied? They failed in a moderately arduous job where they shouldn't have (designed for that exact job) so can I trust them again?
2) If they don't warranty, should I just pay $200 again, as they are exactly the right thing for my use, except for the failure. The last pair I had before these were satisfactory. Now, I doubt their dependability, based on my recent failure of BOTH boots. The failure was very inconvenient, the $200 seemed trivial in comparison to not having dependable boots when I needed them. The lack of protection for my feet with other shoes was a risk I would gladly have paid money to avoid.
3) Should I switch to another brand, in the mid-range price, and hope they're better? How will I know they won't also fail at the same arduous performance level that this pair did?
4) Should I just go right to the top and pay $699 for the best I can get? I know I can depend on them to not fail, and if they do, the company will do everything they can do to make it right. If they're out of warranty, they will rebuild them for a fee.

In tools, I have transitioned to just paying what it takes to get the best overall, with the highest cost. It's worth it to me to not have to think about the compromises on quality/service I'm trading off for dollars. As my first two choices, Proto and SK, moved away from top quality and top service, I simply pivoted to Snap-On.

I no longer have employment that will make the expensive boots as cost effective and their dependability a requirement of the job. Plus, the expensive boots are hard on my feet. So, it's really painful decision to buy a product I don't like, that's expensive, and is higher quality than I should need. But, I don't want to tolerate failure of a lesser product. To pay $200 for a product that failed on nearly the first use, wasn't very cost effective compared to $699 for a product that would have stood up to literally several hundred similar uses.

I feel the OP's pain. He bought what used to be a quality tool. It failed somehow, and the customer service to replace it is poor. If I was him, I'd worry the replacement, which is an imported lower quality tool than Proto has historically made, will also fail. However, he paid $40 for a ratchet that would probably cost $150 or so from Snap-On. He's a home gamer, doesn't need a top quality tool. Old Proto would have been a perfect level. New, cheaper Proto, with a now known failure history, doesn't look so appealing, even though it was exactly what he wanted when it was new and worked right. He's in exactly the same position as me with my boots. Should he pay a lot more, for a product that isn't exactly what he wants, just to get a quality level he can depend on?

It's an interesting dilemma to be in. At least, I can afford the boots. From what I see a lot of the lower quality tool users posting here, they use them because that's what they can afford, and they can't afford to buy all Snap-on. Sometimes it's a stretch to even afford Proto or other near top tier and they just have to start at the bottom or shop from an array of mid-tier, with somewhat unknown performance level. To do that, they have to live with a higher failure rate, lower level of performance, and sometimes less than perfect customer service.

I can say it's a pleasant alternative to not have to make those compromises, and just get the tool that you know will perform, even if the performance level is more than you could live with. But, not all of us use the tools at a level that makes that cost effective. Tradeoffs and choices of life.
 

NORDFORD

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Jan 25, 2014
Messages
200
Probably would not be an issue if the rep simply said, I'm sorry sir the kits are on backorder most likely for at least another month give me your address and we'll mail you one when they come in.

It's more of a customer service issue because the rep said to call back in a month and see if we have any in then.
As soon as a customer asks for “something for my trouble” my attitude does a complete 180.

I’ve called Proto 200+ times in my life. I have NEVER had the response he got. I’m not saying it didn’t happen, I’m just saying we don’t know how the rest went.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
As soon as a customer asks for “something for my trouble” my attitude does a complete 180.

I’ve called Proto 200+ times in my life. I have NEVER had the response he got. I’m not saying it didn’t happen, I’m just saying we don’t know how the rest went.

Always 3 sides to every story - Yours, Mine, and the truth.
 

B_Bimmer

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May 7, 2015
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Eastern Iowa
I read this entire thread... want my time back, and will continue to buy proto which has had amazingly consistent quality for it's entire existence as a brand. I have examples from every era and they are all really fine tools. The new ones are no exception, even considering a one off story about a failed ratchet which they have been making forever and has far fewer complaints then many other highly anticipated and more recent designs that come to mind. I love the huge size markings on sockets and wrenches. They are sucesssfully making me want to buy new even though there's nothing wrong with the old. Great brand, great tools. Seriously who here doesn't have ten or significantly more ratchets anyway that could fill in even if it actually took a year.
 
OP
H

Hakeem

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Jan 22, 2024
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Chicago
As soon as a customer asks for “something for my trouble” my attitude does a complete 180.

I’ve called Proto 200+ times in my life. I have NEVER had the response he got. I’m not saying it didn’t happen, I’m just saying we don’t know how the rest went.
I’m polite and respectful whenever I call in to any corporate line. I expressed my dissatisfaction in a direct but cordial manner. The customer service guy was fine, he was just following the company policy.

Yes, I find the line “something for my trouble” to be a bit gauche as well but I saw on the website that commercial use voided the warranty so I didn’t want to say “this is causing downtime in my profession”.

My question is - what the hell are you doing to your tools where you have to call in 200+ times :eyecrazy:
 
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OP
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Hakeem

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Putting aside the drama, let's look at what went wrong mechanically and how we can fix it.

Besides the Facom/USAG kits I mentioned earlier, I remembered that you could also check stock with MAC dealers since they use the same round heads.

That said, there are 6 components in the head besides the handle (anvil, heart spring, selector dial, spinning plate, and torx fastener). The two photos of the anvil you posted look fine, I would be more interested in what the heart spring or the teeth on the handle and pawl look like in order to suggest repair options.

The mark that you have circled on the left of the first photo doesn't make sense as damage in use.

1. Factory finish is still intact. Scratches or wear will present as shiny silver which you can see in other sections off the photo.

2. The construction of the ratchet leaves a fair bit of clearance between the selector dial and anvil in order to accommodate the heart spring and allow it to flipflop unimpeded. You would need a rather large chunk of anything to get wedged in this space.

3. The selector dial stays fixed relative to the anvil when using the ratchet. In other words, even if a piece of something were stuck in this space, it wouldn't gouge when turning the ratchet. The only time that they slide against each other is when you turn the selector with your fingers.


The part you have circled in your second photo just looks like a blob of the factory lube used between the anvil and the pawl. Facom likes to use a thick graphite based lube there. It's an odd shape for a piece of metal, is it solid?


You can use this video as a guide, the two primary reasons for it not functioning would be the torx screw being overtightened or the dowel on the selector switch not being aligned correctly in the "V" of the heartspring.

I appreciate the good faith response. Here are some more photos.

IMG_9099.jpeg

IMG_9100.jpegIMG_9102.jpeg

The blobby looking thing is solid, it’s deformed metal from the anvil.

In my experience, the ratchet won’t turn at all if the screw is too tight, , and if you don’t catch the heartspring with the peg, the pawl doesn’t engage and it won’t ratchet. The symptoms of my current issue are different …. The ratchet sounds and feels much coarser, and it locks up after 3-4 cranks.

I have a 1/2” version of the same ratchet that I serviced just the same, and that one has been great. I’m inclined to think this one is a lemon.
 

Wrench97

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Jun 23, 2018
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Southeastern Pa
I’m polite and respectful whenever I call in to any corporate line. I expressed my dissatisfaction in a direct but cordial manner. The customer service guy was fine, he was just following the company policy.

Yes, I find the line “something for my trouble” to be a bit gauche as well but I saw on the website that commercial use voided the warranty so I didn’t want to say “this is causing downtime in my profession”.

My question is - what the hell are you doing to your tools where you have to call in 200+ times :eyecrazy:
So Proto has no warranty for tools used in commerce?
 

64C10

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Mar 12, 2022
Messages
369
Location
Globe, Az
I appreciate the good faith response. Here are some more photos.

IMG_9099.jpeg

IMG_9100.jpegIMG_9102.jpeg

The blobby looking thing is solid, it’s deformed metal from the anvil.

In my experience, the ratchet won’t turn at all if the screw is too tight, , and if you don’t catch the heartspring with the peg, the pawl doesn’t engage and it won’t ratchet. The symptoms of my current issue are different …. The ratchet sounds and feels much coarser, and it locks up after 3-4 cranks.

I have a 1/2” version of the same ratchet that I serviced just the same, and that one has been great. I’m inclined to think this one is a lemon.
Just looking at the pictures, I’m not seeing anything that should affect ratcheting function, except the grease buildup. If dealing with a damaged or improperly finished part, there would be some telltale marks on either the anvil or the ring.

When you serviced this ratchet, what did you use as a lubricant?

It may just need some brake cleaner and reassembled with some fresh oil. I was always taught on fine tooth ratchets to use either hydraulic oil or SAE 30 motor oil - never grease.
 
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Jswain

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Apr 26, 2013
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Calgary, AB
Just looking at the pictures, I’m not seeing anything that should affect ratcheting function, except the grease buildup. If dealing with a damaged or improperly finished part, there would be some telltale marks on either the anvil or the ring.

When you serviced this ratchet, what did you use as a lubricant?

It may just need some brake cleaner and reassembled with some fresh oil. I was always taught on fine tooth ratchets to use either hydraulic oil or SAE 30 motor oil - never grease.
I know putting that style back together can be kind of tricky lining up the spring on the pin as well if I remember right, been awhile tho and I could be wrong
 

NORDFORD

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Jan 25, 2014
Messages
200
I’m polite and respectful whenever I call in to any corporate line. I expressed my dissatisfaction in a direct but cordial manner. The customer service guy was fine, he was just following the company policy.

Yes, I find the line “something for my trouble” to be a bit gauche as well but I saw on the website that commercial use voided the warranty so I didn’t want to say “this is causing downtime in my profession”.

My question is - what the hell are you doing to your tools where you have to call in 200+ times :eyecrazy:
Ha! I’m a distributor. Been selling tools for 23yrs
 

Grimm_the_Grey

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Jul 24, 2021
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Central Pennsylvania
So, in your opinion, a premium ratchet should only be expected to work for a few months? If a ratchet quits working after a short time, and it’s not sure to material or workmanship…what’s it due to?


I don’t have to, there are tool companies that already handle their business appropriately



So, what cause that malfunction a short time later? Poor design? Voodoo?

If a quality ratchet stops working without being abused or worn out, it’s absolutely workmanship and materials. There isn’t another option.
Proto's makes "premium pear head" ratchets and then they make their 90-tooth top-of-the-line premium ratchets.

what we're seeing here isn't a "premium" ratchet.... it's a fossil. (with that said, it's a proven design that, apparently, some people like.) If OP wants SBD to kiss his a**, perhaps he should but something other than their second-worst ratchet. 🤷‍♂️
 

liliysdad

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Jul 18, 2008
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Proto's makes "premium pear head" ratchets and then they make their 90-tooth top-of-the-line premium ratchets.

what we're seeing here isn't a "premium" ratchet.... it's a fossil. (with that said, it's a proven design that, apparently, some people like.) If OP wants SBD to kiss his a**, perhaps he should but something other than their second-worst ratchet. 🤷‍♂️
Perhaps a company who sells itself on quality shouldn’t sell “fossils” if they aren’t willing to support them.
 

neophyte

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Perhaps a company who sells itself on quality shouldn’t sell “fossils” if they aren’t willing to support them.
The advantage to “fossils” is that the fossils tend to be proven designs, and industry that needs to keep functioning prefers “proven designs”.
Why the “proven design” failed is the better question, and so far this thread has a bunch of speculation, and no definitive answers.

As far as the kits being backordered, they’re made in a foreign country, with different labor laws, which may prevent simply “adding another shift” to produce more.
If something went wrong during production, the whole batch of kits Stanley has could be trash, leaving Stanley unexpectedly without kits.
Stanley would then need to figure out what went wrong,(which is likely why they sometimes ask for tools back), then correct the issue, then arrange a schedule to produce more kits, which may require working with a subcontractor to make certain parts, and that subcontractor may also need to arrange their schedule to make those parts.
Even once a batch of kits is produced, those kits will still need to get loaded on ships, to cross the ocean to the USA, then get unloaded, and delivered to a warehouse Stanley owns.

You could have purchased a Wright ratchet instead, and then needed to pay for your own replacement service kit (according to another relatively current thread), or purchased a Snap-On, although and hoped the ratchet kits remain highly available, unlike the plier availability and quality control some other people are currently having issues with.
 

dnschmidt

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I like Proto. TOPTUL makes a ratchet that uses this exact design as well. To tell you the truth I have a drawer full of ratchets, a minimum of 50 or so, If one breaks into the trash it goes. The only exception to this are my all time favorite Williams B52 and B54 ratchets for which I have replacement kits. Life is too short to give a **** about broken ratchets. I primarily use Milwaukee and DeWalt cordless ratchets now anyway as I'm one lazy assed white man.
 

tamaraw

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Jun 6, 2022
Messages
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I appreciate the good faith response. Here are some more photos.

IMG_9099.jpeg

IMG_9100.jpegIMG_9102.jpeg

The blobby looking thing is solid, it’s deformed metal from the anvil.
Weird, it's a completely different color in the photos and it's sitting in the middle of a machined flat.

I just don't understand how a round blob could bubble up out of a flat piece of hardened steel, but obviously I can't see it in person.

I would be inclined to hit that spot with a chisel or a file and see what happens, but YMMV.

In my experience, the ratchet won’t turn at all if the screw is too tight,
If it is way too tight, correct. If it is a little tight, it may get stiffer or jam up in certain spots of the rotation.

, and if you don’t catch the heartspring with the peg, the pawl doesn’t engage and it won’t ratchet.
Yep, sounds like that's not it.
 
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