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DIY Blueridge 18k Ductless Mini Split

mharris2007

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
Hi,

I wanted to pass along my experience with my garage single zone ductless mini split installation. I researched the topic here and the hvac forums for about 6 months. My application is a 500 sq ft attached garage with R13 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling in coastal Southern California. I am 2 miles from the water. The garage door is uninsulated and there is one 4x6 window in the north wall. I park two cars in the garage. The function is primarily for cooling when building furniture or working on the cars as I have never once been too cold in my garage even with nights in the 30's. My garage just cooks for some reason!!

My first decision was which mfg to go with. Since my primary function is cooling and I am going to be running it maybe 4-6 times per month for a few hours at a time, I decided not to invest in a top of the line unit. My best friend bought a pioneer 12,000 unit off amazon and loved it. I couldn't find out who the mfg was so didn't go with them. I decided on gree (blueridge) because of their large presence in the mini split market world wide and the good reviews here. Blueridge is the branded gree that alpine home air sells.

I did the install myself minus running the 220v and pressure test/vaccuum. I watched the electrician run the 220v circuit and it really didn't look too difficult to me. My friend from church does cryogenic refrigeration for academic and private labs and has worked on quite a few mini splits over the years. N2 leak test was good, and he did a triple evacuation/vaccuum down to 30 microns. He used leak lock on the flares which I've seen mixed reviews on but I deferred to his experience on that. I had some nylog and poe ready to go but he likes leak lock so I let it go. After that, Let the refrigerant go and it blew out 40 degree air. I used the heat function a few times already just for fun and that works great as well.

Cost breakdown: Blueridge 18k btu mini split kit plus lineset cover delivered to my door $1150. Electrician: $250. Hvac leak test and vaccuum free (but I insisted he take $200). Tools for install including yellow jacket 60278 flaring tool, small and large crow laws foot kit, UV tape wrap, etc were $200. Total: $1800. I had three quotes from hvac companies here that ranged from $3800 to $5000. So I saved roughly $2-3k diy'ing it. I also can't say enough good things about alpine home air. Their tech people are great and their customer service is awesome.

The hardest part for me was getting the wall sleeve into the wall at the correct angle. What I still don't understand is they want the hole in the wall angled down for condensate drainage, but the sleeve in the kit doesn't have an angle on the flange so how is it supposed to aim down 100% like the hole?? Smh.

All in all it was a great learning experience and so far so good with the gree/alpine home air/blueridge unit. Time will tell how it holds up. Here's a few pictures.











I need to take a final picture with the lineset cover on and everything tidied up. I'll try to get that up here soon.

I hope his helps someone as much everyone else's posts helped me.
 
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trashmanssd

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Oct 31, 2016
Messages
489
Location
Ma
Looks awesome, I am jealous I can't really do a mini split in my attached garage. None of the outside walls are hidden with our layout so no where to hide the outside condenser.
 

cagullett1

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Joined
Sep 29, 2013
Messages
2,203
Location
North Texas
Awesome! Curious, what size garage is your friend cooling with the 12k Pioneer unit? What site did you order your unit from? I'm looking to cool a 400sqft garage with similar insulation as yours, and am trying to decide between 12k and 18k. I had planned on going with the Pioneer unit, but will have to take a look at the Blueridge.
 
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M

mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
Looks awesome, I am jealous I can't really do a mini split in my attached garage. None of the outside walls are hidden with our layout so no where to hide the outside condenser.

Gotta find room to get it done!!

Do you leave it on or just turn it on when your in the garage?

I only turn it on when I'm in the garage working which is why I oversized it a bit: so it will cool it quickly. The "calculators" said to use a 12,000 btu version based on my insulation etc, but I wanted it to cool it off faster. Plus with an inverter it can throttle back if needed.

Awesome! Curious, what size garage is your friend cooling with the 12k Pioneer unit? What site did you order your unit from? I'm looking to cool a 400sqft garage with similar insulation as yours, and am trying to decide between 12k and 18k. I had planned on going with the Pioneer unit, but will have to take a look at the Blueridge.

His was a three car so probably 600 sq ft, and he said he left it on all the time, but that it never cooled it completely to what he wanted. He lives in Bakersfield where the summers are really hot too.

If you have a 400 sq ft garage and are planning to only run it when you're out there working and have heat soaked cars you park in there, I would go wtih an 18K. I maybe could have even gone with a 24K version, but then humidity becomes an issue when it's that oversized. We'll see how well it all works when it starts getting hot.
 

softailtom

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Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Yukon Oklahoma
I went with a 18k pioneer for my shop because it had the wifi option. Had a Blueridge in my previous shop and like it.
 
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M

mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
I went with a 18k pioneer for my shop because it had the wifi option. Had a Blueridge in my previous shop and like it.

I do wish I had a wifi option to turn it on remotely (ie from work on my way home). The Mr. Cool precharged line set mini splits had the wifi dongle but I was not ok coiling up the extra line set to make an oil trap.

Do you know who makes the pioneer units?? I couldn't figure that out which is why I didn't use them. I'm sure it will work just fine.
 

Want2race

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Joined
Nov 8, 2008
Messages
217
Love it!

I've been millimeters from pulling the trigger but always get spooked by a lack of local companies supporting them (without wanting to sell you a new one each time) and finding someone to evac it. Looks like you have both covered!!
 

softailtom

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Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Yukon Oklahoma
No don't know who makes Pioneer but before I bought it I called at least 8 HAVC guys not one new anything about mini splits. Wanted to get a bid to have one installed no one would come out.
 
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M

mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
Love it!

I've been millimeters from pulling the trigger but always get spooked by a lack of local companies supporting them (without wanting to sell you a new one each time) and finding someone to evac it. Looks like you have both covered!!

You just need to hope for the best and be able to troubleshoot basic things I think. THE evac issue is definitely something you need done. Or buy the tools to DIY. You can just pay for a service call with no warranty attached by the hvac company and tell them exactly what you want. Good luck.

No don't know who makes Pioneer but before I bought it I called at least 8 HAVC guys not one new anything about mini splits. Wanted to get a bid to have one installed no one would come out.

Wow that's crazy. I had bids to put them in but they were outrageous compared to what I could DIY it for. I'm glad I did it myself, if nothing more than for the education in refrigeration and AC units.


Good link.
 

softailtom

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Yukon Oklahoma
Hi,

I wanted to pass along my experience with my garage single zone ductless mini split installation. I researched the topic here and the hvac forums for about 6 months. My application is a 500 sq ft attached garage with R13 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling in coastal Southern California. I am 2 miles from the water. The garage door is uninsulated and there is one 4x6 window in the north wall. I park two cars in the garage. The function is primarily for cooling when building furniture or working on the cars as I have never once been too cold in my garage even with nights in the 30's. My garage just cooks for some reason!!

My first decision was which mfg to go with. Since my primary function is cooling and I am going to be running it maybe 4-6 times per month for a few hours at a time, I decided not to invest in a top of the line unit. My best friend bought a pioneer 12,000 unit off amazon and loved it. I couldn't find out who the mfg was so didn't go with them. I decided on gree (blueridge) because of their large presence in the mini split market world wide and the good reviews here. Blueridge is the branded gree that alpine home air sells.

I did the install myself minus running the 220v and pressure test/vaccuum. I watched the electrician run the 220v circuit and it really didn't look too difficult to me. My friend from church does cryogenic refrigeration for academic and private labs and has worked on quite a few mini splits over the years. N2 leak test was good, and he did a triple evacuation/vaccuum down to 30 microns. He used leak lock on the flares which I've seen mixed reviews on but I deferred to his experience on that. I had some nylog and poe ready to go but he likes leak lock so I let it go. After that, Let the refrigerant go and it blew out 40 degree air. I used the heat function a few times already just for fun and that works great as well.

Cost breakdown: Blueridge 18k btu mini split kit plus lineset cover delivered to my door $1150. Electrician: $250. Hvac leak test and vaccuum free (but I insisted he take $200). Tools for install including yellow jacket 60278 flaring tool, small and large crow laws foot kit, UV tape wrap, etc were $200. Total: $1800. I had three quotes from hvac companies here that ranged from $3800 to $5000. So I saved roughly $2-3k diy'ing it. I also can't say enough good things about alpine home air. Their tech people are great and their customer service is awesome.

The hardest part for me was getting the wall sleeve into the wall at the correct angle. What I still don't understand is they want the hole in the wall angled down for condensate drainage, but the sleeve in the kit doesn't have an angle on the flange so how is it supposed to aim down 100% like the hole?? Smh.

All in all it was a great learning experience and so far so good with the gree/alpine home air/blueridge unit. Time will tell how it holds up. Here's a few pictures.











I need to take a final picture with the lineset cover on and everything tidied up. I'll try to get that up here soon.

I hope his helps someone as much everyone else's posts helped me.

How much does the inside and outside unit weigh meaning do I need 1or 2 other helpers?
Thanks
 
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M

mharris2007

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
How much does the inside and outside unit weigh meaning do I need 1or 2 other helpers?
Thanks

The indoor unit is light. I lifted that by myself.

THe outdoor unit I slid on the concrete to where it was going to go, unboxed it, and had my dad help me lift it on the pad. I think it weighs 100 lbs.
 

softailtom

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Yukon Oklahoma
Where did you find the yellow jacket flaring tool check some Hvac supply houses and they can order me one but nothing local online only? I've got a flaring tool but nothing that nice.
 
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mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
The yellow jacket tool makes flaring a no brainer. When I was practicing the flares I was obsessing on the finish of the flare and kept practicing until it was perfect. Then I watched the yellow jacket training video and their flare in the video basically looked like every flare I made that to my eyes wasn't that great. Ha ha. My hvac friend looked at my installation and flares and said I should quit being a doctor and start putting in mini splits full time. Ha ha.

Anyway, I ordered my 60278 flaring tool on amazon. Supplyhouse.com also has them for about the same price I think.

Yellow Jacket 60278 Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SB5RMA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I think I paid $112 for mine. Price went up a little.

Supply house has it for $112. I think it's no tax and free shipping from them.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Yellow-Jacket-60278-45-Deluxe-Flaring-Tool
 

softailtom

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Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Yukon Oklahoma
Yellow Jacket 60278 Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SB5RMA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I ordered one this morning from amazon. I don't think I'm going to need it for mine but i saw the same yellow jacket video you did and new I had to have one in my tool box.

"My hvac friend looked at my installation and flares and said I should quit being a doctor and start putting in mini splits full time"

No Obama care in hvac installs!!!
No Obama care in hvac installs!!!!
 
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M

mharris2007

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
Yellow Jacket 60278 Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SB5RMA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I ordered one this morning from amazon. I don't think I'm going to need it for mine but i saw the same yellow jacket video you did and new I had to have one in my tool box.

"My hvac friend looked at my installation and flares and said I should quit being a doctor and start putting in mini splits full time"

No Obama care in hvac installs!!!
No Obama care in hvac installs!!!!

Dude, you have no idea. I build furniture as a hobby too along with other handyman things. I basically am just saving as much money as I possibly can so that I can quit as soon as possible. In the end, it's the general public that's going to suffer because Doctor's are just going to choose to do something else, or gasp, not go to medical school at all. Why would you when the government just litigates what your value is worth?
 

softailtom

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Joined
Feb 11, 2010
Messages
81
Location
Yukon Oklahoma
I hear it every night from my wife 27 years at the largest health care provider in Oklahoma trauma nurse first 16 then the last 11 in case management she's got 4 more years till retirement .
 
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mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
I hear it every night from my wife 27 years at the largest health care provider in Oklahoma trauma nurse first 16 then the last 11 in case management she's got 4 more years till retirement .

You have a first hand look into the insanity. Most people don't. She's blessed she's so close to being out. My wife is (was) a trauma nurse too. That's where we met, in the trauma bay, lol. She's been "retired" for about 7 years now if you call it that. Taking care of two little kids ain't exactly retired. Ha ha.
 

BACAGrizz

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Joined
Jun 21, 2011
Messages
2
Location
Oklahoma
Glad I stumbled on this thread. I pulled the trigger on a Blueridge 2 ton mini split this morning. I am getting a 24'x25' insulated steel building installed in my back yard. Oklahoma summers can be brutal and I want it cool to work in. Got the kit packaged for just under $1400.

I have someone who will vacuum and charge the unit for me. I am planning to do the install myself with the exception of connecting the lines. I may get brave and break out my flaring tool and do that myself also.

I got a quote from a local large AC vendor/installer of $5k and decided to look around> I am happy to hear the Alpine Home Air has good customer service and was delighted to see posts from 2 years ago praising them and the unit I bought.

Is it necessary to use the plastic wall sleeve and channel to cover the lines and wires?
 
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M

mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
Glad I stumbled on this thread. I pulled the trigger on a Blueridge 2 ton mini split this morning. I am getting a 24'x25' insulated steel building installed in my back yard. Oklahoma summers can be brutal and I want it cool to work in. Got the kit packaged for just under $1400.

I have someone who will vacuum and charge the unit for me. I am planning to do the install myself with the exception of connecting the lines. I may get brave and break out my flaring tool and do that myself also.

I got a quote from a local large AC vendor/installer of $5k and decided to look around> I am happy to hear the Alpine Home Air has good customer service and was delighted to see posts from 2 years ago praising them and the unit I bought.

Is it necessary to use the plastic wall sleeve and channel to cover the lines and wires?

I have used it periodically in heat and cool mode since finishing the installation and it has been flawless.

If you install it right and it is appropriately sized for your application I can't imagine it not doing well for you. I'm am an N of 1 though so keep that in mind. I would use the plastic sleeve supplied. If you don't use it and just spray foam it in there number one if it ever had to be serviced and removed from the wall good luck and 2nd if there's a leak the water could go into your wall.

Btw it doesn't need to be charged. It's pre charged. It needs to be purged, pressure tested and vacc'd down. Then the refrigerant released. Good luck.
 

Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
Messages
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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
So , |I'm asking again.

For the OP situation, what would have been inferior w a 24kbtu window ac plus the 230 outlet, so like $800 total.

??

I still do not understand why minisplit instead of a throughwall unit for a single room w NOT 24/7 use?

Must have missed something.

Help me out, I'm still all about "Window" AC in a dedicated hole. Marc
 

Marctrees

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And actually, in that size room, I would do two seperate 14k units on opposite walls more or less.

Cool distribution, redundancy if one fails, $325/ each plus dedicated 120/20 ckt for each.

Marc
 

Marctrees

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Mharris sed - "Cost breakdown: Blueridge 18k btu mini split kit plus lineset cover delivered to my door $1150. Electrician: $250. Hvac leak test and vaccuum free (but I insisted he take $200). Tools for install including yellow jacket 60278 flaring tool, small and large crow laws foot kit, UV tape wrap, etc were $200. Total: $1800. I had three quotes from hvac companies here that ranged from $3800 to $5000. So I saved roughly $2-3k diy'ing it. I also can't say enough good things about alpine home air. Their tech people are great and their customer service is awesome.

So, $1800 plus his labor and project management time.

My method is about $900 less, allowing for everything I can see.

Pleas - NOT being ******* here - just totally confused - What was gained by the $900 difference, other than some efficiency, which matters little in this case cause it will be seldom used.

Again, WHY minisplit in a situation as this ??

Lost on this. Marc
 
Last edited:

justinjoyal

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Apr 30, 2015
Messages
888
Location
Quebec
Pleas - NOT being ******* here - just totally confused - What was gained by the $900 difference, other than some efficiency, which matters little in this case cause it will be seldom used.

Again, WHY minisplit in a situation as this ??

Lost on this. Marc



I don't know OP's reasons. Mine, however:

Much more silent

Doesn't look like sh1t

Don't have to cut a big hole in the wall
 

Fixin'Stuff

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Jun 14, 2016
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HotterNHellHouston
Again, WHY minisplit in a situation as this ??

Lost on this. Marc

A few more to add to juntinjoyal's list...

HEAT. Very few window units have a heat pump mode. Most that have a heat option use electric heating strips that cost a small fortune to operate.

When a window unit dies, it's damn near impossible to find a new one that fits in the same size hole.

Most HOA's don't allow window units, even through a garage wall. (Obviously not a problem for some).

Single speed. They're either on full blast, or they're off. Mini-splits automagically throttle down once the set-point is achieved, sipping electricity as they continue to cool (and most importantly around these parts - Dehumidify!) the space.
 
OP
M

mharris2007

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Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
91
I have used it periodically in heat and cool mode since finishing the installation and it has been flawless.

If you install it right and it is appropriately sized for your application I can't imagine it not doing well for you. I'm am an N of 1 though so keep that in mind. I would use the plastic sleeve supplied. If you don't use it and just spray foam it in there number one if it ever had to be serviced and removed from the wall good luck and 2nd if there's a leak the water could go into your wall.

Btw it doesn't need to be charged. It's pre charged. It needs to be purged, pressure tested and vacc'd down. Then the refrigerant released. Good luck.

So , |I'm asking again.

For the OP situation, what would have been inferior w a 24kbtu window ac plus the 230 outlet, so like $800 total.

??

I still do not understand why minisplit instead of a throughwall unit for a single room w NOT 24/7 use?

Must have missed something.

Help me out, I'm still all about "Window" AC in a dedicated hole. Marc

And actually, in that size room, I would do two seperate 14k units on opposite walls more or less.

Cool distribution, redundancy if one fails, $325/ each plus dedicated 120/20 ckt for each.

Marc

Mharris sed - "Cost breakdown: Blueridge 18k btu mini split kit plus lineset cover delivered to my door $1150. Electrician: $250. Hvac leak test and vaccuum free (but I insisted he take $200). Tools for install including yellow jacket 60278 flaring tool, small and large crow laws foot kit, UV tape wrap, etc were $200. Total: $1800. I had three quotes from hvac companies here that ranged from $3800 to $5000. So I saved roughly $2-3k diy'ing it. I also can't say enough good things about alpine home air. Their tech people are great and their customer service is awesome.

So, $1800 plus his labor and project management time.

My method is about $900 less, allowing for everything I can see.

Pleas - NOT being ******* here - just totally confused - What was gained by the $900 difference, other than some efficiency, which matters little in this case cause it will be seldom used.

Again, WHY minisplit in a situation as this ??

Lost on this. Marc

To save me from having to type it all myself I will just quote Justinloyal and Fixinstuff:

"I don't know OP's reasons. Mine, however:

Much more silent

Doesn't look like sh1t

Don't have to cut a big hole in the wall"

"HEAT. Very few window units have a heat pump mode. Most that have a heat option use electric heating strips that cost a small fortune to operate.

When a window unit dies, it's damn near impossible to find a new one that fits in the same size hole.

Most HOA's don't allow window units, even through a garage wall. (Obviously not a problem for some).

Single speed. They're either on full blast, or they're off. Mini-splits automagically throttle down once the set-point is achieved, sipping electricity as they continue to cool (and most importantly around these parts - Dehumidify!) the space."

I'm certain that they are more experience than me anyhow.
 
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