Diy brake pressure bleeder.

[kelpaso1]

I work on ATV's in my own 1 man shop. When it comes to bleeding/flushing brakes it's a PITA all by myself. I have the MityVac suction bleeder and not a real fan of it (the vac pump is good though)

I had this thought before and while searching I came across a aircraft maintenence thread and found out that aircraft brakes are REVERSE pressure bled from the calipers to the M/C. I know I can make a normal pressure bleeder but I would have to have a separate M/C cover for each different makes of bikes.

My idea is this. Get a small 1 L pump garden sprayer. Fill with brake fluid. Adapt the hose coming out of the sprayer with a small ball valve to control the flow. Add silicone tubing to the other side of the valve which you push onto the end of the bleeder screw. Pump up the sprayer to a few psi. **** out the old fluid from the mc. Then open the bleeder a crack, open the ball valve a bit to get the fluid pushing up to the MC and keep using a syringe to keep sucking out the fluid in the MC until it is coming out clear. When it does repeat for all the other calipers/WH/CYL's.

Sound like this would work?

 

[jloehlein]

This should work, I've seen clutch systems bled this way, too. One potential drawback is that if there is any **** in the caliper, you could end up pushing that upstream though. If the ATV/car is relatively new or has aluminum calipers, I don't think this would be an issue. I've bought used cars with so much rust/junk in the brake system that I've had to remove the bleeder screws completely to get it out.

 

[Dust Devil]

This sounds like a great way to make a mess.

What do you struggle with? I do brakes and clutches all day long by myself no issues.

 

[chrisexv6]

He mentioned he wanted something more "universal" so you dont need different adapters for different vehicles/applications.

Ive used the Motive PowerBleeder with the "universal" type adapter on multiple vehicles without a problem. Sometimes it takes a little time to get the adapter on (all the spaghetti ABS brake lines coming off the MC get in the way) but once thats done Ive never had a problem bleeding brakes and/or flushing fluid completely all by myself.

Ive also considered making my own specific adapters by getting another MC cover for each vehicle and adding a barbed fitting, but never got around to it.

 

[signcrafter]

Which mityvac do you have? The little hand pump or the one actually made just for bleeding brakes, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015POUXM/?tag=atomicindus08-20.

I have the one actually made for bleeding brakes and it works good. I did have a problem with it not sucking like it should this past summer and took it apart and found some crud in the vacuum head part. But other then that it has worked great.

I'm not sure about your reverse bleeding idea. I know there is a company that already makes one that reverse bleeds, think it's phoenix. The issue I see is forcing the fluid through the bleeder without it getting out of the hose, unless you use a hose clamp. Why not just build it like the motive and bleed from the master? Yes you will have to make a cap for each vehicle you will use it on but you can just get one from the parts store for a couple bucks and epoxy a barbed fitting into the cap. This was the main reason I went with the mityvac instead of the motive since the motive adapters add up real quick.

 

[FA7X]

i went through this last year. I assembled all the parts to make my own, a really nice one. In the end, it would have been cheaper (considering gas and time involved) to just by the Motive bleeder.

One thing to consider, how are you going to thoroughly clean the old fluid out when you are finished? Lots of folks on the car forums I use, only use the system to apply air pressure, they don't fill them with fluid. You have to be much more diligent so you don't fill the system with sir, but it's not hard to do and the system stays clean.

best of luck.

 

[bwringer]

As mentioned above, I would never, ever, ever use reverse bleeding on anything but a new, freshly rebuilt, or scrupulously maintained system (as on a race car or airplane) -- on any braking system more than a year or so old, any moisture in the system sinks to the calipers first and creates that wonderful substance we call "crud" or "mung".

You most definitely do NOT want to spread mung to the rest of your braking system, especially an ABS system.

 

[mp23]

You don't even need the sprayer. I use a oil can and some clear tubing and Works especially well on clutches for getting the air out. Im not sure why it wouldn't work on bike brakes.

 

[FA7X]

I must have misread the OP. I agree with the other foks, I wouldn't reverse bleed it. It's too easy to do from the top (which I also believe is the correct direction)

 

[larryforce]

You may be looking for a cleaner solution, but when I needed to pressure bleed a clutch when conventional bleeding was not working. I used a bicycle inner tube.
I cut out a circular piece around the scrader valve, applied a light coat of great to the under side, and used 3 or 4 elastic bands to hold it in place.

I have used that modified cap to pressure bleed 2 ir 3 times now when I didn't have the right cap

 

[woodstockva]

Here is a how-to video I made about pressurized fluid dispensers....it would be VERY easy to modify this with extra M/C caps (like chrisexv6 suggested) to do what you want. I say go for it, especially since you are doing this on a regular basis....it would cost you $20 for the unit & $x.** for each extra M/C cap.

I would NOT reverse bleed them backwards into the master cylinder. As you know, all the water/rust/debris will settle in the caliper/wheel cylinder & especially with ATVs riding through water and being stored in the rain, that is not a good idea to push backwards into your M/C.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/VbNhswhnvuA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Japjeep]

^^ that's the set up for me ^^

Adapt a cap, seal the vent in the cap, should work great. Thanks

 

[kelpaso1]

Here is a how-to video I made about pressurized fluid dispensers....it would be VERY easy to modify this with extra M/C caps (like chrisexv6 suggested) to do what you want. I say go for it, especially since you are doing this on a regular basis....it would cost you $20 for the unit & $x.** for each extra M/C cap.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/VbNhswhnvuA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Woodstock you are right since this was the way we used to do it on cars when I worked on them. I guess I can get a few M/C lids from a buddy who scraps bikes. But I would like to come up with a small universal plate that will fit most bikes. Something like the ones we used on older cars. A flat plate 1 1/2x 2 1/2, a rubber gasket, a hole for a barb fitting, and a chain to hook to the plate and wrap around the MC and back up to the plate. Tighten up the wing nut so it doesn't leak. Just less room to get a chain around them good because they are mounted to the handlebars. I guess small chain might work. Hmm, I think I'll just get the 5-6 used bike covers that will handle 90% of what I work on.

I would NOT reverse bleed them backwards into the master cylinder. As you know, all the water/rust/debris will settle in the caliper/wheel cylinder & especially with ATVs riding through water and being stored in the rain, that is not a good idea to push backwards into your M/C.

I've known that since I was an apprentice 35 years ago I was always taught to open the bleeder before pushing the caliper piston back so you don't push the **** back up to the MC. I don't know what I was thinking

That's funny. Your vid is EXACTLY like I was going to do, except I didn't see you vid till now Also I never thought of using them for other fluids. Gear oil, trans fluid, antifreeze etc. Alot of ATV's are a pain trying to add fluids after draining. I think I be stopping by Amazon tomorrow

 

[CJM8515]

Very easy to bleed brakes of this type.

Make the master the lowest point, air will always go to the highest point. So unbolt the master and lines if need be and make them lower than the calipers.

I always gravity bleed my atv then unbolt the master and never had an issue.

 

[engineer2]

I made my own pressure bleeder and it used it for the first time today. It worked great! Easy to build out of:
1 gallon sprayer
BBQ LP tank regulator
1/4 barbed shutoff valve for the brake fluid
1/4 NPT shutoff valve for the air supply
3/8" OD clear tubing
Various brass fittings
30 psi pressure gauge from a MityVac
Sintered bronze air filter (you really can't see it but it's at the air inlet fitting)
Master Cylinder Adapter for your vehicle. You need a leak-free adapter because you are pressurizing your master cylinder. You don't want brake fluid leaking out. I tried a Honda MC cap, but pressure made it pop off.

You will need something to catch the brake fluid at the calipers. I use my Vacula for that, but you can use anything.

You need a clean and dry air supply, but I made mine so you could either hand pump it or use shop air. I have an air filter and a refrigerated air dryer. If you want to hand pump, you can skip the regulator and most of the plumbing parts. I set the regulator to 15 psig. I read going over 20 is ill advised.

My plumbing might look a little convoluted, but it's done that way for balance. If I put all the plumbing on one side, it wants to tip over.

I filtered the leftover brake fluid when I put it back in the bottle. I rinsed the bleeder out with denatured alcohol when done and purged it with compressed air. The red cap on the MC adapter is for storage only.