DIY Garage Stool

[KwikFab]

Just sayin', if I were to buy one of those stools, complete, from you, I'd sure as hell expect to pay more than $700! And I'd probably feel like I stole it!

The local machine shop where we used to get a lot of small jobs done, quite reasonably, has passed on to the next generation and is now $125/hr, 1 hr. min for machining--and I don't get to BS with old Joe (really his name) over coffee anymore.

Yeah some of the people I learned from are completely out of the game. Leaves people like me to keep it going.

 

[sqznby]

Once I get home, I'll figure out roughly how much steel it'll require.

Just loaded up another 2' x 4' of 3/16" yesterday just before welding up the stool.

A repeat customer of mine buys a lot of custom brake mounts and more that I make for him. He customizes and makes small motor bikes so he's ordering parts once a week from me.



I'll need to determine what size bottom platform that the lead screw nut will be welded on, which will require holes for mounting the wood panel.

Will five 1/4" - 20 T nuts suffice for the stool cushion/top?

Just let me know. And if it would be easier, I'd be perfectly content with just the legs and jig. Whatever you want to do, I'm happy either way.
That's great to have local repeat customers, specially building cool things like little motorbikes haha.

 

[KwikFab]

Just let me know. And if it would be easier, I'd be perfectly content with just the legs and jig. Whatever you want to do, I'm happy either way.
That's great to have local repeat customers, specially building cool things like little motorbikes haha.

Ha, motorbikes is just the recent customer I acquired.

Just picked him up a month ago and he's doing roughly 1 order per week. I do motor mounts (LS swaps) and shock mounts for a local shop about once every 2 months. A lot of one-off parts for locals for their truck, lowrider bike, even a trailer.

I did this one for myself recently, and the other one for my kid's room just because.







Unfortunately, being careless lead me to losing three letter e's.

 

[mattthemuppet]

man, that already looks way nicer than the commercial one you showed a pic of.

While we're armchair engineering someone else's project, here's what I'd do for a footrest/ leg tie together tube thing. Get some 3/4 or 1" steel tube of some description. Notch it 2/3 of the way through with a 1" holesaw or thereabouts (forgot the size of your caster tube things). Place the notched part over the caster tube thing, tack it in place on one side and bend the rest of the tube around it. Measure out the next notch, pull it off, cut the notch and repeat. That will get you a comfortable size tube to rest your feet on, some decent stiffening and potentially look pretty good too.

 

[KwikFab]

man, that already looks way nicer than the commercial one you showed a pic of.

While we're armchair engineering someone else's project, here's what I'd do for a footrest/ leg tie together tube thing. Get some 3/4 or 1" steel tube of some description. Notch it 2/3 of the way through with a 1" holesaw or thereabouts (forgot the size of your caster tube things). Place the notched part over the caster tube thing, tack it in place on one side and bend the rest of the tube around it. Measure out the next notch, pull it off, cut the notch and repeat. That will get you a comfortable size tube to rest your feet on, some decent stiffening and potentially look pretty good too.

So, I had this idea to cut out small tabs to weld to the underside of the rolled tube (or flat ring) which would then sit on top of the legs to get welded on.

The only weight they'd see would be from my feet sitting on top, hence the tabs being welded directly below to help support said weight.

I do like the idea you're proposing, but I don't want to commit to such things *just yet*.

Need to reach out to my local customers to see if by chance, one of them can do me the favor.

I remember at the old fab shop I used to work at, the owner was a real cheapass. He wouldn't buy tools necessary to expedite things as he didn't really care if things took longer than they should to do. Here's an old example of that, where I'm tacking flat stock every two inches or so and bending it around a table top.

 

[KwikFab]

Small update.

The wood top still hasn't arrived, late as usual since it's USPS.

Had two customer orders to knock out so I added making the metal top for mounting the lead screw to, as well as a sort of mock-up template for how I want to mount the backrest.

For starters, the t-nuts arrived. I opted for M8 versus 1/4 -20 because I wanted something stronger, not to mention I have a ton of grade 8.8 and grade 10 metric hardware on hand.



Might catch some flack for this but I also got some wrinkle finish spray paint for the stool. Yes I know some of you mentioned powder coat but I'm poor unless y'all want to throw some funds my way



Here's the metal top. I'm going to use 5 t-nuts for the wood top to fix to the metal mount, and I added the hole in the center for centering over the wood piece. The metal mount will serve as a template for drilling into the wood too.



As for the piece I'm holding here in my left hand, it's a mock-up mount for the backrest.



I could use anywhere from 4 to 6 t-nuts and attach this to the underside of the wood mount. The question that comes to play is how far out would I need the mount to come out before I bend it upwards for mounting the backrest.

A follow-up question to that would be, if I should buy some 1/8" steel for the backrest. Using 3/16" has been way overkill but it's definitely not cheap.

On top of that, I'll need to grind down the nuts to weld them into the center tube and only after everything is done, can I finally cut down the lead screw for my desired sit height.



@sqznby I didn't forget about you!

I'd rather just have all parts and measurements figured out before I made anything for anyone.

That and the thread (as well as what I'm using) can help you plan ahead.

I'll have a ton of extra t-nuts by the way since I only need a handful of them unless you're going with a pre-made stool top.

 

[KwikFab]

What do you guys think about the backrest if I went Vyper-style?



Looks simpler, but less is more in my opinion.

The alternative would be something like two of these, with a brace or two welded between them (crude example).

 

[Beerhippie]

I got a new shop stool today!

Unfortunately, it was from my coworker's dog... sorry, no pictures.

 

[Banjorear]

That looks awesome! Nicely done and I agree with Bigblue, heck I'd buy a couple.

same

 

[Skyman]

Suggestion: Make the backrest adjustable, both horizontally and vertically. Looks awesome so far. You have mad skills, sir!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Small update.

As for the piece I'm holding here in my left hand, it's a mock-up mount for the backrest.

Impressive that you can bend your fingers backwards like that.




It's coming along nicely. I would probably use Rust-Oleum Hammered gray if it were mine.

 

[KwikFab]

Suggestion: Make the backrest adjustable, both horizontally and vertically. Looks awesome so far. You have mad skills, sir!

Thanks for the kind words!

The adjustable backrest has always been in the back of my mind, but I'd have to ditch my current backrest since it's damaged.

I should just find a suitable replacement or something so I can create the proper bolt pattern.

Slotting the rear for a preset number of backrest positions would be pretty easy.

 

[KwikFab]

USPS just dropped off my wood top!

Friend does woodworking and I thought it was cool for him to add his logo.

 

[Skyman]

Your friend also does quality work.

 

[KwikFab]

Your friend also does quality work.

Yeah he does!

I'll have to post later something he made for me last year.

Anyway, wood is prepped and ready to go.





Mock fitment.



All that's next now is dealing with the leather and cushion which to me, is going to be the hardest part.

I don't know if I just want to take it to someone that does upholstery.

After which I still need to deal with the leadscrew nuts by grinding them down and welding them inside the center tube.

 

[Beerhippie]

You're going to weld both nuts to the center tube? How do you keep them from binding? When I've tried welding two nuts to a tube--even with them threaded to a bolt--they've always bound up on me.

 

[KwikFab]

You're going to weld both nuts to the center tube? How do you keep them from binding? When I've tried welding two nuts to a tube--even with them threaded to a bolt--they've always bound up on me.

I'll have the leadscrew threaded through both nuts.

With that, I'll tack the nuts a few times to the tube and run the leadscrew back and forth a few times to ensure it can still spin within the nuts before welding.

I guess that'll be an issue for future me

I did consider earlier just welding one nut inside the tube while leaving the other exposed and unwelded but not sure if I'll like it from an aesthetic standpoint.

What do you all say (those watching)?

 

[KwikFab]

Also, a slight modification to the backrest with the added slots. This way I can make a sort of 'brace' I can weld in with the slots.

 

[Beerhippie]

I'd use one nut at the top and a closely-fitting tube at the bottom, just to take any side forces.

No matter how I try, with the nuts threaded onto the same bolt, they always bind--but the ones I've done were common UNC threads, not Acme.

 

[KwikFab]

Or, weld the bottom nut inside the tube and use a threaded handle to "lock" into place the leadscrew above the tube.

It'll **** spending even more money on this though

 

[KwikFab]

Just to add, I will be cutting the leadscrew.

I will cut it according to where my stool rests at it's tallest siting height, and will gain to utilize a good amount of adjustment as the leadscrew threads down into the center.

This means the leadscrew will always have two nuts tying it to the center at all times (unless needing to remove it for any reason).

 

[Skyman]

Consider boring the threads out of the bottom nut so that the rod becomes a slip fit into it? The top nut should have no trouble carrying the vertical load.

 

[KwikFab]

Consider boring the threads out of the bottom nut so that the rod becomes a slip fit into it? The top nut should have no trouble carrying the vertical load.

Not sure how I'd be able to do that.

I have limited tools.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I agree with welding the bottom nut so it's fixed and use the top nut as a jam nut. You could add some small wings to the top nut like the McMaster handle pictured above to make it easier to spin/tighten.

 

[Beerhippie]

I agree with welding the bottom nut so it's fixed and use the top nut as a jam nut. You could add some small wings to the top nut like the McMaster handle pictured above to make it easier to spin/tighten.

Without a swivel bearing on the seat, a lock-nut would be and excellent idea.

 

[KwikFab]

I agree with welding the bottom nut so it's fixed and use the top nut as a jam nut. You could add some small wings to the top nut like the McMaster handle pictured above to make it easier to spin/tighten.

I could cut some sort of "handle" out and weld it around the top nut versus buying that handle I linked.

 

[KwikFab]

What I didn't mention, since the real "eye candy" here will be the cushion itself (when I'm not sitting on it ) I figured why take a chance and mess up covering the cushion?

Pulling the leather tight over the cushion and holding it down with 1,000 staples had me wondering if I would've been forced to 1. lose comfort towards the edges, which could cause numbness and pain below the thighs but also 2. make for an ugly cushion.

This is what I want to avoid.



So I dropped it off with a nearby upholstery earlier this afternoon.

The request was for them to use my leather and cut a nice round top for the cushion, as well as a band around the circumference and stitch it together. Lastly, stitch any remainder leather needed towards the bottom for wrapping around the stool and finishing it with the black dust fabric underneath.

Outside of that and the wood top, I've tried to keep any outsourcing to a minimum.

Again, way overkill and more expensive than just buying one from an online shop like this one for those genuinely interested in a parts kit of some sort - https://www.webstaurantstore.com/la...Ebk1zkaw4BkKONd0o8RveOtw7Q9_QFjAaAiqJEALw_wcB

Even after all of this, I will be at half the cost of that stool I mentioned in the beginning.

Can't wait to finish and get this all wrapped up.

 

[KwikFab]

Also, because it's late and the wife, kid, and dogs all go to sleep early.

 

[SilverJimmy]

I like your welding/fab table with the holes and the grid pattern, did you make it or is it commercially available? Thanks!

 

[KwikFab]

I like your welding/fab table with the holes and the grid pattern, did you make it or is it commercially available? Thanks!

Purchased!

Got them from PrimeWeld as I'm running two of them with the leveling casters.

 

[KwikFab]

With the kid napping, my friend called out of the blue to BS a bit.

Why do I mention this? Because we love talking metal working, CNC, etc. The last time we hung out is when I welded up for him a firepit over 7 or 8' tall.







So when I told him about my stool, he told me to swing by and grab some steel from him. As I mentioned, I need a thinner gauge material for my backrest so when he said that, I figured let me use some scrap I've got laying around for a test cut.



Have to say, I like it way more than I thought I would!



So, if I get a chance today I'll have to swing by and grab it. If not, I can try tomorrow before my customer comes by.

 

[KwikFab]

Stool cushion delayed for the weekend, but that's fine.

Little more progress today after picking up some steel.

 

[KwikFab]

Had to take care of a few other things, but welded up the backrest.

Everything laid out and pretty much ready to go.



Only thing I'm dreading is grinding down the nut for welding it inside the tube.

Not because it's hard, it'll be super easy. It'll just be super messy (I hate metal dust).

Hoping the stool cushion is ready tomorrow so I can finish up this week.

 

[Beerhippie]

Had to take care of a few other things, but welded up the backrest.

Everything laid out and pretty much ready to go.



Only thing I'm dreading is grinding down the nut for welding it inside the tube.

Not because it's hard, it'll be super easy. It'll just be super messy (I hate metal dust).

Hoping the stool cushion is ready tomorrow so I can finish up this week.

Can you chuck the screw in a lathe or drill press, run the nuts together tight, then use an angle-grinder to grind them down ?

Maybe rig up something like this for dust collection:



I've made a doohickie out of a gallon bucket and some vacuum fittings--inlet goes to the bottom, outlet draws form just below the lid--that I put a few inches of water in to catch hot bits and keep the dust collector (shop vac) from catching fire.

 

[KwikFab]

Can you chuck the screw in a lathe or drill press, run the nuts together tight, then use an angle-grinder to grind them down ?

Maybe rig up something like this for dust collection:



I've made a doohickie out of a gallon bucket and some vacuum fittings--inlet goes to the bottom, outlet draws form just below the lid--that I put a few inches of water in to catch hot bits and keep the dust collector (shop vac) from catching fire.

Don't own a lathe. That would be number one on the list of ways I'd turn down these nuts.

I could chop a bit of the leadscrew off so I don't have a whole 2' of leadscrew hanging off the drill press, but it'll be awkward to grind while it spins.

I'm gonna just put it on the vise, grind down each corner, then round it all off.

Again, I just hate the metal dust. But it's super easy to do.

 

[KwikFab]

What I'd love to find is someone that can roll some tube for me.

Still want to get a footrest done by means of some rolled tube but I may just go with a flat round cutout.

 

[Beerhippie]

Don't own a lathe. That would be number one on the list of ways I'd turn down these nuts.

I could chop a bit of the leadscrew off so I don't have a whole 2' of leadscrew hanging off the drill press, but it'll be awkward to grind while it spins.

I'm gonna just put it on the vise, grind down each corner, then round it all off.

Again, I just hate the metal dust. But it's super easy to do.

I beg to differ, as I do stuff like this all the time in the drill press. Just get the two nuts good and tight together (locked) and use a flapwheel on the angle grinder. Pretend you're the tool holder on a lathe and slowly approach the nuts to take off the just the corners. You'll be done in no time flat.

I turned this:



into this:



in a few minutes using nothing but a drill press, angle grinder, sandpaper and steel wool.

 

[KwikFab]

I beg to differ, as I do stuff like this all the time in the drill press. Just get the two nuts good and tight together (locked) and use a flapwheel on the angle grinder. Pretend you're the tool holder on a lathe and slowly approach the nuts to take off the just the corners. You'll be done in no time flat.

I turned this:



into this:



in a few minutes using nothing but a drill press, angle grinder, sandpaper and steel wool.

No that's not the awkward part as I've done that before. Meant because my drill press used to be located elsewhere along with my air dryer.

But I'm in the garage now, the chuck is too small so vise it is!

 

[Beerhippie]

No that's not the awkward part as I've done that before. Meant because my drill press used to be located elsewhere along with my air dryer.

But I'm in the garage now, the chuck is too small so vise it is!

I understand. My DP only goes to 1/2", too. Sometimes I have to get creative, like for the 1/2" plumbing. Some reducing bushings and couplings allowed me to use a 1/4" NPT ****** that I could hold in the DP chuck.

I can spend hours figuring out clever ways to save a few minutes on a job.

 

[KwikFab]

Fortunately it ain't much to remove.

Only need to get to 1.4690" for the ID of the tube



From 1.8265" the widest points of the nut



The flats come in at exactly 1.6000".

Literally a few minutes grinding the corners. Again, just hate metal dust