DIY heat pump install on house

[teknikfrog]

This is for my house, not my garage, but this seems like the right place to ask this.

I have a Trane heat pump 2 months out of warranty that is a total lemon. Four failures in five years, including 2 months into the install. I blame both installer workmanship issues as well as Trane for making a **** product. So I've been trying to get my compressor replaced, as it's allegedly burned up. Unfortunately, for whatever reason the area I live in is REALLY BAD for getting ANYTHING done by trades. When I talk to people in other cities they're like "are you serious??".

So I reached out to 22 local HVAC companies to see about getting my compressor replaced--paying full price in cash btw. Out of those companies, roughly half never bothered to respond, and the other half flat-out declined to even bid at all, because they'd rather sell me a new system (to replace my 5 year old trane!). The installer doesn't return phone calls and I even had to threaten a chargeback in writing before they even provided the diagnostic I paid for. I'm still waiting on a few callbacks but the writing is on the wall; I'm getting a new system.

This experience has me looking into DIY. From searching around it looks like you can either get china stuff or Goodman, but nothing else. No Carrier for example. But Goodman is good enough for me.

I fully priced out all parts and tools for a brand new Goodman heat pump and handler. For roughly 7-8k I can diy this, and that includes buying all the fancy tools.

I have experience with automotive AC and can repair all issues with that. I already have a vacuum pump even.

I am about 95% confident in my ability to fully install a system; roughing in, electrical, brazing the lineset, pulling vacuum, balancing subcooling etc. I read the install manual for the Goodman system I was looking at cover to cover and I feel pretty good about it.

But I don't know what I don't know, and my understanding is that while I can buy the parts (refrigerant included once I get an EPA license), what I CANNOT get is tech support. So assuming I do the entire install, charge it, and I run into a mysterious error code I can't figure out on my own, I'm screwed. And then of course, nobody will touch it.

Do you guys have any thoughts on this? Is this a path I should go down or give up and pay 12k+ for a new system?

Also, I live in a very well insulated log home and I can easily make it till the end of the summer with no AC. On a 96* day I'm only hitting like 80 indoors. So that buys me a significant amount of time--basically six months-- to acquire tools and knowledge.

 

[pcmeiners]

Around here many non experienced people have installed heat pumps for the first time. The Install failure rate for first timers is extremely low around here. Mind you if you can't control a need to cut corners, not follow recommended practices, or buy the cheapest materials possible, all bets are off.
Also if you use the search option on this forum, there is a ton of information at hand.

 

[teknikfrog]

Around here many non experienced people have installed heat pumps for the first time. The Install failure rate for first timers is extremely low around here. Mind you if you can't control a need to cut corners, not follow recommended practices, or buy the cheapest materials possible, all bets are off.
Also if you use the search option on this forum, there is a ton of information at hand.

That is really encouraging. I'll do a deep dive on the search feature.

Again, after reading the install manual cover to cover nothing really jumped out at me as problematic, I'm just a little anxious of taking a $8,000 leap of faith.

 

[bonneyman]

That is so sad. Trane used to be among the best. And their factory-sponsored training classes were great.

But it seems like everybody is in a race to the bottom, cutting quality and costs while raising prices. And you can't even get a bid from local dealers? Somethings fishy.

If you are competent on auto A/C you should be able to handle a residential heat pump. Get a friend to help as a second set of hands and eyes are always good practice.

 

[WildBill]

I'd say go for it, I'm planning to do the same and replace my 20 year old central air setup. If you're ok working on car ac your going to be fine. I did the mini-split in my shop a couple years ago and was nervous but it went fine. Have done a bunch more since. Lots of places online will sell you refrigerant without a license if you click the box saying your buying it to resell, use that info however you see fit. Who knows, maybe you can make some side cash fixing other people's stuff since it's so hard to get service where you are.

 

[teknikfrog]

I'd say go for it, I'm planning to do the same and replace my 20 year old central air setup. If you're ok working on car ac your going to be fine. I did the mini-split in my shop a couple years ago and was nervous but it went fine. Have done a bunch more since. Lots of places online will sell you refrigerant without a license if you click the box saying your buying it to resell, use that info however you see fit. Who knows, maybe you can make some side cash fixing other people's stuff since it's so hard to get service where you are.

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

And yeah I'm unemployed at the moment so the thought of maybe picking up a new and marketable skill is certainly a factor as well.

 

[Davefr]

That's exactly what I did around 10-15 years ago. Pros were quoting around $10k but I did it all myself for around $4k. IMHO an "****" homeowner can do a far better install than a HVAC "Pro" because they can take their time and do it right vs. having to rush to the next job. My system (4T Rheem) has performed flawlessly except for one capacitor replacement. I did this legally by getting my universal EPA license.

There's nothing wrong with Goodman. Most units use common pumps, valves, motors, etc, etc. The installation quality is far more important than the brand. Try and pick a unit that has basic features.

If you have the time to work slow and methodical and are willing to study the theory of what you'll be doing then go for it. Youtube now has a wealth of HVAC videos to help you along the way.

As a homeowner I can't possibly have a wide range of HVAC expertise/experience but I can sure as hell be an expert on my home's specific HVAC system.

 

[teknikfrog]

That's exactly what I did around 10-15 years ago. Pros were quoting around $10k but I did it all myself for around $4k. IMHO an "****" homeowner can do a far better install than a HVAC "Pro" because they can take their time and do it right vs. having to rush to the next job. My system (4T Rheem) has performed flawlessly except for one capacitor replacement. I did this legally by getting my universal EPA license.

There's nothing wrong with Goodman. Most units use common pumps, valves, motors, etc, etc. The installation quality is far more important than the brand. Try and pick a unit that has basic features.

If you have the time to work slow and methodical and are willing to study the theory of what you'll be doing then go for it. Youtube now has a wealth of HVAC videos to help you along the way.

As a homeowner I can't possibly have a wide range of HVAC expertise but I can sure as hell be an expert on my specific HVAC system.

Thank you for your thoughts.

If you have the time to work slow and methodical and are willing to study the theory of what you'll be doing then go for it. Youtube now has a wealth of HVAC videos to help you along the way.

Yeah I mean the way I see it, I have six months to methodically and meticulously put in a new system.

Still unclear what to do if I need tech support though. Like for example lets say I get a unit in that has a bad control board, install it, have issues--maybe that's the manufacturers fault but with no tech support to walk through "put test leads here, measure value, etc" I feel like I could be really boned.

 

[Davefr]

Thank you for your thoughts.



Yeah I mean the way I see it, I have six months to methodically and meticulously put in a new system.

Still unclear what to do if I need tech support though. Like for example lets say I get a unit in that has a bad control board, install it, have issues--maybe that's the manufacturers fault but with no tech support to walk through "put test leads here, measure value, etc" I feel like I could be really boned.

Control boards often have built in diagnostic self test capability. They can tell you what the problem is.

For my system I bought a spare defrost/control board, capacitors and contactor. I also have a couple jugs of R22 but have never had use them. Make sure you get the installers manual for every component you buy. Having the schematics can be very helpful.

 

[Davefr]

Control boards often have built in diagnostic self test capability. They can tell you what the problem is.

For my system I bought a spare defrost/control board, capacitors and contactor. I also have a couple jugs of R22 but have never had use them. Make sure you get the installers manual for every component you buy. Having the schematics can be very helpful.

P.S. I agree there's some risk. If your supplier ships you a defective component the manufacturer will likely refuse any service or warranty support and it might be tough to get anyone to help you. I'd research your suppliers policies with respect to anything that could arrive as DOA. It would be better if you could buy the components from a local supplier that could support you with problems but most HVAC distributers refuse to do business with homeowners.

 

[WildBill]

If your really concerned about warranty you might look at the Mr.Cool DIY stuff, they will cover a regular person doing the install. Mr.Cool is made by Gree, just like 80% of other brands. I would buy whatever you get from somewhere with good after sale support like these guys, they are really great.

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As stated by others every new unit I've messed with has built in trouble codes. And always add a surge protector at the outside disconnect, the control boards are really susceptible to damage from lightning.

 

[teknikfrog]

That is extremely helpful info. I will study it. Thanks !!

 

[pcmeiners]

"Still unclear what to do if I need tech support though. Like for example lets say I get a unit in that has a bad control board, install it, have issues--maybe that's the manufacturers fault but with no tech support to walk through "put test leads here, measure value, etc" I feel like I could be really boned."

Have the universal cert, I have all (5) Fujitsu minisplit units warranty registered through Fujitsu. Aside from that, if you have a decent retailer they will help with diagnostics and they will get replacement parts. Many manufacturers will provide tech support directly as stated in advertisements, other manufacturers possibly not.

As to the 608 cert, if you have some study material it is relatively easy to pass. Read the material once and under stand it and you should pass. If you want a high mark read it twice. There are many free practice tests on the web, at least there was until Crowdstrike screwed up

 

[PopcornSutton]

I did it, no issues for over 10 years. Couple things to think about. Is your old system R22? If so you should probably replace the line set, the new will be R410a. Can't mix them. Second, you should purge the lines once brazed with nitrogen. That removes all traces of moisture. Be sure to get a two way dryer. You will need some freon, the precharge is only good for 10 feet of lines or so. You have to charge R410a as a liquid, tank inverted, and very carefully.

 

[RoninB4]

I replaced my heat pump 2 years ago with a 4T Goodman. I had no experience with HVAC at all. I did all the rom measurements and calculations (there are several) that are recommended. Poured a new pad, and set the unit by myself. If you do all the reading, follow all the recommended procedures to the letter, and have some mechanical skills I can see this project going well for you. Have a detailed check list on each procedure from accepting the unit off the truck to final readings after installation. Hope this turns out well for you, I was in the same dilemma as you with the same nervousness about it. Arm yourself with knowledge. Good luck.

 

[BillK]

So I've been trying to get my compressor replaced, as it's allegedly burned up.

Are you sure it is burned up ? You say allegedly ??

If you are certain it is the compressor and you feel comfortable doing the work, why not just replace the compressor ?

Unfortunately, for whatever reason the area I live in is REALLY BAD for getting ANYTHING done by trades. When I talk to people in other cities they're like "are you serious??".

You might help yourself a lot by letting us know where you are. There are a lot of guys on here with lots of connections that might be able to help you.

 

[teknikfrog]

Are you sure it is burned up ? You say allegedly ??

Because the installer is the one who determined that and they are totally incompetent and perhaps greedy as well. I have no idea how to determine if a compressor is burned up or not.

The tech said it was pulling 2 extra amps and that is how he made his determination.

My original intent was to shop around for someone to replace the compressor, and once I made my selection I'd pay to have them come out and do a second diagnostic to be sure. I didn't anticipate that literally nobody would be willing to even provide a quote for repair, only replace.

I'll be honest I did not see this coming. I had no idea how bad this industry is in my area. I expected my AC to be back in operation over a week ago after dishing out a few thousand bucks. I didn't expect to run into a complete brick wall.

Further aggravating the situation is Trane themselves. I had 2 questions for Trane; can you work with me on the warranty because it's only two months out and the problems have been ongoing the entire life of the system. Answer: no. The other question was going to be; can you refer an authorized dealer to install it. But I never got that far.

I'll never buy a Trane product again as long as I live.

If you are certain it is the compressor and you feel comfortable doing the work, why not just replace the compressor ?

I have no way to purchase Trane parts. Additionally if I'm going to spend the time and money to get all the tools needed I might as well get a new system and not throw good money after bad. I have an extremely dim view of Trane right now.

So I have just a few more shops I'm waiting to hear back from, including one that was a personal referral. If I can get someone to replace the compressor I'll do so, otherwise it's time for a new system.

Oh, and you might say "if you can't diagnose a compressor what business do you have doing a whole system install" and I'd say you aren't wrong, I'm still at the information gathering stage. I've accepted the fact that I am likely to be without AC until next spring and that gives me time to literally read a book on being an hvac technician.

You might help yourself a lot by letting us know where you are. There are a lot of guys on here with lots of connections that might be able to help you.

I'm in Kentucky outside of Louisville.

 

[gba2331]

It’s sad, but I think in the long run you’ll be happier because you’re gonna know a lot more.

 

[462867aa]

I was in your shoes. Surrounded by stupidity and greed. Watch a bunch of videos and learn how to do it. Diagnose the compressor first, then decide if it needs changing. Come back and ask questions. Good luck!

 

[mm08822]

If you buy a new unit, R410A units can't be mfd after 1/1/25. (IIRC) So either stock up on the 410a now or just stay away from it.

Double-check me, search the R410A topic.

 

[PopcornSutton]

In commercial buildings, Trane is installed more than any other brand in my area. They have good stuff, and good support. BUT, I think their parts are proprietary, and it seems everything they sell, from a huge condenser to a small unit heater what has their software in it. The only way you get their software, is if it was clearly noted in the project specs that they have to adhere to. My county has their own maintenance people, and once out of warranty they want to do their own work. No software, no work. Even then, I would bet they still have a back door access to more than what maintenance can.

For residential, I think I would go with a brand that isn't proprietary. I've heard Lennox is the same way, but not sure.

 

[ratflinger]

If you buy a new unit, R410A units can't be mfd after 1/1/25. (IIRC) So either stock up on the 410a now or just stay away from it.

Double-check me, search the R410A topic.

This is correct. The guys I buy from (budgetheating.com) told me that if I want another 410a condenser then I'd better buy it no later than the fall. No interchangeability with the new refrigerant, all new equipment required.

 

[pcmeiners]

"If you buy a new unit, R410A units can't be mfd after 1/1/25. (IIRC) So either stock up on the 410a now or just stay away from it."

Previously manufactured system may be sold until 2028, the gas itself will be available until 2036. So the only reason to stock up on 410a is that it will become more expensive in the future.

"If so you should probably replace the line set, the new will be R410a. Can't mix them"

If a lineset is the correct size for a replacement with a new system/gas, if the lines are thoroughly cleaned of previous oil, linesets can be reused . Would I trust a "pro" to do it correctly, at great cost maybe.

 

[American Locomotive]

The tech said it was pulling 2 extra amps and that is how he made his determination.

My original intent was to shop around for someone to replace the compressor, and once I made my selection I'd pay to have them come out and do a second diagnostic to be sure. I didn't anticipate that literally nobody would be willing to even provide a quote for repair, only replace.

I don't now what size system you have, but 2 amps over RLA/FLA (don't get it mixed up with LRA!) doesn't sound that bad to me. That just sounds like a system dealing with a heavy load on a hot day.

If anything it sounds like your system might just be a little overcharged, or the condenser fan motor/capacitor a little weak.

 

[firebirdparts]

Goodman traditionally was the lowest of the low **** product. Look at HVAC direct dot com. Mr Cool is making ducted systems with recharged line sets up to 5 ton, so at least that is an option that would not require braze/vacuum/charge.

I bought a couple systems over the years from hvac surplus sellers. There s a lot of surplus for sale, I don’t know why.

 

[teknikfrog]

Goodman traditionally was the lowest of the low **** product. Look at HVAC direct dot com. Mr Cool is making ducted systems with recharged line sets up to 5 ton, so at least that is an option that would not require braze/vacuum/charge.

I bought a couple systems over the years from hvac surplus sellers. There s a lot of surplus for sale, I don’t know why.

I assume you mean _p_recharged line sets.

That's actually pretty interesting, I thought that was just a mini split thing. That said I've watched a few vids on brazing and without being cocky, it looks extremely easy.

In other news I just had two HVAC companies reach out willing to provide a quote!

So now I'm batting 2 / 22!

One is coming by shortly and the other will get me a bid on wednesday. Fingers crossed, I'd like to put this whole saga behind me.

That said I think long-term, or even medium-term I am going to go ahead and learn how to DIY this stuff. It's not like this is the last time in my life my AC will go out.

 

[American Locomotive]

I assume you mean _p_recharged line sets.

That's actually pretty interesting, I thought that was just a mini split thing. That said I've watched a few vids on brazing and without being cocky, it looks extremely easy.

In other news I just had two HVAC companies reach out willing to provide a quote!

So now I'm batting 2 / 22!

One is coming by shortly and the other will get me a bid on wednesday. Fingers crossed, I'd like to put this whole saga behind me.

That said I think long-term, or even medium-term I am going to go ahead and learn how to DIY this stuff. It's not like this is the last time in my life my AC will go out.

Once again,I would verify that your compressor is actually failed. What were the symptoms?

 

[teknikfrog]

Once again,I would verify that your compressor is actually failed. What were the symptoms?

Symptoms were AC blowing without cooling and compressor not running, with a failed cap (I measured like 1 mfd on the cap and like 38 on the spare replacement I had on hand. After replacing the cap I got about 3 hours of normal cooling and then the system dropped back offline. So I called the original installer out. The diagnostic said:

"No AC Arrived on Site. System Short cycling. EEV board error code #2 EEV control board internal failure. System pulling into vacuum while Running cutting off on low pressure need to replace EEV control board & Compressor"

This is my written diagnostic, verbatim.

That said, what the """"tech"""" actually said to me was that the board controlling the reversing valve was bad which caused the compressor to fry itself.

So a couple thoughts; first off, my understanding is that "EEV" basically means txv controller which is a very different thing than a reversing valve. Maybe the board does double duty? idk. Again I understand the thermodynamic principles here but what I don't understand fully is the circuit design of a Trane heat pump.

Second, I would expect a "high end" heat pump system to detect a compressor fault and shut down, not just burn itself up. In fact, that to me is what short cycling means. I would ALSO expect that if the reversing valve is stuck or not moving properly, then you're more likely to get hot and cold in the wrong place, which shouldn't be fatal in itself. I quizzed him about this and he was completely unable to explain himself.

So my conclusion is; 50/50 he was telling the truth. If so, they probably botched the install. If not, welp.

Appreciate the help friends.

 

[Davefr]

Goodman traditionally was the lowest of the low **** product. Look at HVAC direct dot com. Mr Cool is making ducted systems with recharged line sets up to 5 ton, so at least that is an option that would not require braze/vacuum/charge.

I bought a couple systems over the years from hvac surplus sellers. There s a lot of surplus for sale, I don’t know why.

Goodman did have a bad reputation but they got better. They use mainstream compressors, motors, valves unless something has changed recently. They're simple no frills units. (IMHO that's good)

Symptoms were AC blowing without cooling and compressor not running, with a failed cap (I measured like 1 mfd on the cap and like 38 on the spare replacement I had on hand. After replacing the cap I got about 3 hours of normal cooling and then the system dropped back offline. So I called the original installer out. The diagnostic said:

"No AC Arrived on Site. System Short cycling. EEV board error code #2 EEV control board internal failure. System pulling into vacuum while Running cutting off on low pressure need to replace EEV control board & Compressor"

This is my written diagnostic, verbatim.

That said, what the """"tech"""" actually said to me was that the board controlling the reversing valve was bad which caused the compressor to fry itself.

So a couple thoughts; first off, my understanding is that "EEV" basically means txv controller which is a very different thing than a reversing valve. Maybe the board does double duty? idk. Again I understand the thermodynamic principles here but what I don't understand fully is the circuit design of a Trane heat pump.

Second, I would expect a "high end" heat pump system to detect a compressor fault and shut down, not just burn itself up. In fact, that to me is what short cycling means. I would ALSO expect that if the reversing valve is stuck or not moving properly, then you're more likely to get hot and cold in the wrong place, which shouldn't be fatal in itself. I quizzed him about this and he was completely unable to explain himself.

So my conclusion is; 50/50 he was telling the truth. If so, they probably botched the install. If not, welp.

Appreciate the help friends.

I'm no expert but I don't see how a control board that controls reversing can take out a compressor. Either it's heating or cooling. Symptoms of the outdoor fan running without the compressor running sure sounds like a bad capacitor. If the control board detected a major fault in the system I don't think it would have energized the outdoor fan motor. OEM capacitor quality is ****. I replaced my units failed Chinese cap with a USA Turbo Cap and it's been running fine. If I were you, I'd replace the cap again and see what happens since it already fixed your problem for awhile. You might also want to ohm out all three legs of the compressor.

The diagnostic ability of many HVAC techs can be lacking.

P.S. I agree with A.L. who says 2 amps over spec is probably no big deal. A compressor probably draws more like 10-15 amps running.

 

[brewchief]

If the air handler does indeed have an EEV(and Trane does have some that do)and it's not working properly then the compressor amp draw is going to be affected. If the compressor is still able to run it is likely not the problem, it's not overly common for a compressor to fail and still run, even less common for it to still run and only draw 2 amps over rated.

I would want to resolve any EEV issues before condemning the compressor.

The EEV equipped systems I've dealt with were all inverter driven compressors so they wouldn't have a run cap at all, Trane may use an EEV with a standard compressor but it seems odd to do so. Model numbers of indoor and outdoor units would be a help to determine what's going on.



As far as a DIY replacement with goodman equipment, if you take your time and don't skimp out on buying the proper tools and proper procedures are followed it can turn out just fine.
Goodman equipment tends to be built a bit cheaper and is often a bit noisier then some other equipment but it's not necessarily bad stuff. We install it on occasion, typically where the job is price sensitive.

Goodmans warranty specifically states no warranty on internet sales, I think the online sellers are simply covering replacement parts cost themselves, this does mean if you had a failure and a local company tries to warranty a part they may get refused. The online seller should have tech support available.

 

[American Locomotive]

Symptoms were AC blowing without cooling and compressor not running, with a failed cap (I measured like 1 mfd on the cap and like 38 on the spare replacement I had on hand. After replacing the cap I got about 3 hours of normal cooling and then the system dropped back offline. So I called the original installer out. The diagnostic said:

"No AC Arrived on Site. System Short cycling. EEV board error code #2 EEV control board internal failure. System pulling into vacuum while Running cutting off on low pressure need to replace EEV control board & Compressor"

This is my written diagnostic, verbatim.

That said, what the """"tech"""" actually said to me was that the board controlling the reversing valve was bad which caused the compressor to fry itself.

So a couple thoughts; first off, my understanding is that "EEV" basically means txv controller which is a very different thing than a reversing valve. Maybe the board does double duty? idk. Again I understand the thermodynamic principles here but what I don't understand fully is the circuit design of a Trane heat pump.

Second, I would expect a "high end" heat pump system to detect a compressor fault and shut down, not just burn itself up. In fact, that to me is what short cycling means. I would ALSO expect that if the reversing valve is stuck or not moving properly, then you're more likely to get hot and cold in the wrong place, which shouldn't be fatal in itself. I quizzed him about this and he was completely unable to explain himself.

So my conclusion is; 50/50 he was telling the truth. If so, they probably botched the install. If not, welp.

Appreciate the help friends.

What model outdoor unit and air handler do you have? I don't see how anyone could diagnose a compressor if the EEV controller isn't working.

 

[teknikfrog]

If the air handler does indeed have an EEV(and Trane does have some that do)and it's not working properly then the compressor amp draw is going to be affected. If the compressor is still able to run it is likely not the problem, it's not overly common for a compressor to fail and still run, even less common for it to still run and only draw 2 amps over rated.

I would want to resolve any EEV issues before condemning the compressor.

The EEV equipped systems I've dealt with were all inverter driven compressors so they wouldn't have a run cap at all, Trane may use an EEV with a standard compressor but it seems odd to do so. Model numbers of indoor and outdoor units would be a help to determine what's going on.



As far as a DIY replacement with goodman equipment, if you take your time and don't skimp out on buying the proper tools and proper procedures are followed it can turn out just fine.
Goodman equipment tends to be built a bit cheaper and is often a bit noisier then some other equipment but it's not necessarily bad stuff. We install it on occasion, typically where the job is price sensitive.

Goodmans warranty specifically states no warranty on internet sales, I think the online sellers are simply covering replacement parts cost themselves, this does mean if you had a failure and a local company tries to warranty a part they may get refused. The online seller should have tech support available.

Hey thank you for writing this up, there is a lot of knowledge in this post.

 

[teknikfrog]

What model outdoor unit and air handler do you have? I don't see how anyone could diagnose a compressor if the EEV controller isn't working.

4TWR7048A1000DA is the outdoor unit model. unsure of the air handler model.

 

[teknikfrog]

I'd replace the cap again and see what happens since it already fixed your problem for awhile.

Actually that might not be a bad idea..

 

[American Locomotive]

According to Trane, the EEV isn't even used for cooling mode.

https://cx1content.unilogcorp.com/cx1/view/api/asset/v1/dam/assets/ITEM/DOC/file/267/TRANE_4TWR7048A1000D_Service_Manual.pdf.

Make sure the condenser is clean. That manual also provides tips for pulling the codes from the EEV board yourself.

Also make sure the capacitor you installed matches what the original was supposed to be. Wrong values can cause excess current draw.

 

[teknikfrog]

According to Trane, the EEV isn't even used for cooling mode.

https://cx1content.unilogcorp.com/cx1/view/api/asset/v1/dam/assets/ITEM/DOC/file/267/TRANE_4TWR7048A1000D_Service_Manual.pdf.

Interesting....

Make sure the condenser is clean. That manual also provides tips for pulling the codes from the EEV board yourself.

It's kicking out way too fast to be a dirty coil. I'll pull those codes myself!

Also make sure the capacitor you installed matches what the original was supposed to be. Wrong values can cause excess current draw.

Yep

 

[teknikfrog]

Oh and thanks for that PDF!

 

[teknikfrog]

Okay, re-checked:
- New cap I put in same exact part as old one with same specs
- Tested new cap carefully, tested to exactly 30/7.5 on my meter
- There are NO ERROR CODES flashing (I don't need to do anything to trigger them right?)
- Compressor and fan run normally for 3 seconds and then cuts out. It retries after about 60 seconds and the process repeats
- Status light is solid green normally, flashing when engaging system which appears nominal
- 240VAC across contactor terminals

Tried to run through the compressor flow chart but when it says "Does the resistance check show an open circuit from C to S or C to R?" I'm unsure of what C/S/R means and I must be missing it in the schematic. Also unsure if I would test those in-situ or if I would be unplugging something and testing the wire or the wire's connection point on a board.

It is very telling though that my "diagnostic" says the EEV board was putting out error codes but when I looked there were none.

 

[dscheidt]

C is common, R is Run, S is Start.

 

[teknikfrog]

Okay, looking for those..



Okay, I see S and R going into the compressor (CPR), and then 'C' over on the right side. I'm guessing those are it.

So, test resistance between
Black/Blue (C) <--> Orange (S)
Black/Blue (C) <--> Red (R)

then

Red (R) <--> Orange (S)

According to the flowchart. Do I have that about right?