DIY or take it to a Machine Shop?

[wachuko]

I tend to look for any excuse to get tools... I am working on fitting a new set of wheels to my Sportster... everything is going well but I have reached a point where I need to modify the caliper mount to maintain alignment with the rotor...

I have to remove 1/4" from here...

I have one of these: 1/3 hp craftman bench drill press

I can order one of these: Shop Fox D2730 3-Inch Cross Sliding Vise

But not sure what milling bit to use????

Or should I stay the course and find a local machine shop to do the work???

This is the bike...mounting wheels from a Fat Bob Dyna on the Sportster 48...

 

[sleepy127]

Your gonna get a lot of people telling you not to use your drill to mill. It will wear out the tapered fitting over time with that being said if you can use the 1st type and only move the peice when the quill is up.

 

[toolchaser]

I would take it to a machine shop. Good luck finding one that will do "walk in" work though. Thats how I got into machine work myself, couldn't find a shop to make parts for my race bikes.

 

[Richard D]

If you drop it in th mail I'll mill it off for you in exchange for a case of beer...

 

[wachuko]

Your gonna get a lot of people telling you not to use your drill to mill. It will wear out the tapered fitting over time with that being said if you can use the 1st type and only move the piece when the quill is up.

Just trying to see if I can use what I have and just get the tools that I am missing.

But good to know. Thank you.

 

[wachuko]

I would take it to a machine shop. Good luck finding one that will do "walk in" work though. Thats how I got into machine work myself, couldn't find a shop to make parts for my race bikes.

A quick search on local shop is only giving me some high-end places that work aerospace stuff... they are not going to bother with this... Don't know of any more down-to-earth shop to take it in... that is what got me thinking of what I would need to do it myself.

 

[kazlx]

Jesus no. I'm usually the one with a 'go for it' attitude, but...

1) brakes.
2) way wrong machine and tooling.
3) brakes.

If you were close, I would do it for you for free. Chances are you might have a hard time getting a machine shop to do it because of liability. But maybe someone on here will help you out. Are the calipers steel? You'd have a hell of a time trying to do that on a drill press, if you don't ruin the part or whatever tooling you bought. You'd be better off if you could find a package deal on a mill/drill.

Use an endmill (the first pic), not a fly cutter.

You might be able to get away with a center cutting end mill and just setting a stop and plunge milling. Still, the best way and extremely easy, is in and actual mill and then you know the caliper will line up correctly.

 

[wachuko]

Jesus no. I'm usually the one with a 'go for it' attitude, but...

1) brakes.
2) way wrong machine and tooling.
3) brakes.

If you were close, I would do it for you for free. Chances are you might have a hard time getting a machine shop to do it because of liability. But maybe someone on here will help you out. Are the calipers steel? You'd have a hell of a time trying to do that on a drill press, if you don't ruin the part or whatever tooling you bought. You'd be better off if you could find a package deal on a mill/drill.

Use an endmill (the first pic), not a fly cutter.

You might be able to get away with a center cutting end mill and just setting a stop and plunge milling. Still, the best way and extremely easy, is in and actual mill and then you know the caliper will line up correctly.

That is why I initially wanted to take it to a machine shop... to make sure that the cuts were straight and even... like you said, this is the front brake caliper.

Material of the caliper is aluminum.

So if I decide to try to tackle this, use this then:

 

[wachuko]

I will make a few calls to see if I can find a local machine shop that is willing to do this...

 

[larry_g]

Can't say much more than the above movie shows.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Just try a few independent bike shops or transmission shops, some of the better ones will have a fully capable machine shop set up.

 

[kazlx]

Yea, that's an end mill, you want a center cutting though (looks like a flat drill bit, the flutes go all the way in). That way you could plunge down and just do it in two or three plunges. Don't side mill, chances are you'll pop the taper. Just make sure the caliper is in a vise and the vise is firmly clamped to the table. Get everything as rigid as possible. Do both bosses and then use a long enough sanding block to go across both flats to get them perfect. Aluminum is quite a bit more forgiving than steel. But in all honesty, if you're even remotely interested in machining and have the space and money, a small mill would be really useful if you are into modifying bikes. You'll use it for more than you think...

 

[wachuko]

Can't say much more than the above movie shows.

lg
no neat sig line

Yikes!!

 

[kazlx]

Richard D mentioned also, but I'd do it for you for free if you wanted to ship it both ways.

 

[wachuko]

Yea, that's an end mill, you want a center cutting though (looks like a flat drill bit, the flutes go all the way in). That way you could plunge down and just do it in two or three plunges. Don't side mill, chances are you'll pop the taper. Just make sure the caliper is in a vise and the vise is firmly clamped to the table. Get everything as rigid as possible. Do both bosses and then use a long enough sanding block to go across both flats to get them perfect. Aluminum is quite a bit more forgiving than steel. But in all honesty, if you're even remotely interested in machining and have the space and money, a small mill would be really useful if you are into modifying bikes. You'll use it for more than you think...

Any recommendations on a small mill that will not break the bank but good enough for these small projects?

 

[bullnerd]

You need a piloted spot facing tool or maybe even a counter bore with a pilot. I have counter bore bits with a removable pilot, with those you can easily make your own pilot for odd sizes. Then the drill press would work no problem. I'll look for a pic.

My computer is flaking out so this might not work.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#counterbores/=ycqbnt

Anyway McMaster carr has them.

If you were REAL handy with a bench grinder you could probably make one from scratch.

All that said, if you don't want to pay for it, scribe a line through the paint, hacksaw just to the scrap side of the line, and file/grind to the line.

 

[kazlx]

Yikes!!

The force of drilling is what helps keep the taper seated in a drill press. Mills have different tapers, plus a physical retaining method that keeps the tooling secure (draw bar/bolt/retention stud). No law saying that you'd automatically pop the taper out like that every time, but it's highly likely.

 

[TauntDevil]

I have used my drill press a few times to mill things down but usually never anything major or steel so I cant say it will do well. If anything, just like I do, you need to do small bits at a time. Such as only take of a small bit of the top on both sides, then move it up a little more, do it again, and repeat until you get down to where you need it. I only use mine when absolutely necessary and when I do not want to drive half an hour to the shop to use the mill.

Another thing you can do, and this is just a suggestion but you can possibly buy a flat sanding table (Usually they are vertical but horizontal would work best.) and place it on the sanding pad as it goes, to try and eat away as much as possible until you get down to the level you want. Just need to make a small jig to keep it level (or wing it which I would not recommend at all!) Out here, these things go for about $40+

^ picture of what I am talking about because I **** with names....

 

[wachuko]

Really appreciate all the comments and the great information shared. As well as the offers to send the part and helping with it.

This can be the perfect excuse to finally get an affordable milling/drilling machine and start learning how to use it.

 

[kazlx]

Any recommendations on a small mill you can recommend that will not break the bank but good enough for these small projects?

If you could find a Hardinge or Clausing (8520) or something similar, they are smaller and pretty awesome for stuff like this. The only crappy part is they are pretty desirable because of that and usually demand higher prices than a Bridgeport or larger, more capable machine. In all honesty, if space is at a premium, a small mill could easily replace a drill press foot print.

You can pretty easily (well around here anyway) find Chinese mill/drills that usually have an R8 taper for around $500 give or take on CL. They kind of **** after you have used better machines, but it's a good way to get started and see if you like it and use it. It would handle that caliper job no problem.

You *could* also maybe find a smaller horizontal mill, which can be easier to find because they aren't as desirable. Little bit different setups, but still super useful. Don't be scared of 3 phase. If you have 220V you can run anything.

 

[kazlx]

I have used my drill press a few times to mill things down but usually never anything major or steel so I cant say it will do well. If anything, just like I do, you need to do small bits at a time. Such as only take of a small bit of the top on both sides, then move it up a little more, do it again, and repeat until you get down to where you need it. I only use mine when absolutely necessary and when I do not want to drive half an hour to the shop to use the mill.

Another thing you can do, and this is just a suggestion but you can possibly buy a flat sanding table (Usually they are vertical but horizontal would work best.) and place it on the sanding pad as it goes, to try and eat away as much as possible until you get down to the level you want. Just need to make a small jig to keep it level (or wing it which I would not recommend at all!) Out here, these things go for about $40+

^ picture of what I am talking about because I **** with names....

You could easily do the job you want with a jig and a disc or belt sander...

 

[kazlx]

If you can find something like this, but his asking price is just stupid.

http://lakeland.craigslist.org/hvo/5137299857.html

 

[wachuko]

If you could find a Hardinge or Clausing (8520) or something similar, they are smaller and pretty awesome for stuff like this. The only crappy part is they are pretty desirable because of that and usually demand higher prices than a Bridgeport or larger, more capable machine. In all honesty, if space is at a premium, a small mill could easily replace a drill press foot print.

You can pretty easily (well around here anyway) find Chinese mill/drills that usually have an R8 taper for around $500 give or take on CL. They kind of **** after you have used better machines, but it's a good way to get started and see if you like it and use it. It would handle that caliper job no problem.

You *could* also maybe find a smaller horizontal mill, which can be easier to find because they aren't as desirable. Little bit different setups, but still super useful. Don't be scared of 3 phase. If you have 220V you can run anything.

Thank you! The search is on! I will need something compact... those two are too big for my garage

 

[kazlx]

See if you can find one used.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-horsepower-heavy-duty-milling-drilling-machine-33686.html

 

[wachuko]

You could easily do the job you want with a jig and a disc or belt sander...

My concern with that approach (and I have something like in that photo) is ending with a completely flat/level surface... the caliper needs to mount straight. Reach of the sander to the area that needs to be worked would be a challenge...

 

[Leoruiz]

Look for a welding shop in the area. They usually have an old mill or two around that can handle that quick.
A 12" disk grinder-sander would do it but it needs to be properly scribed. Not that easy.
You could use a mic-caliper and grind slowly until .250 was evenly gone.
PITA really.
You could whack it with a cutoff disc and final fit it with a file.That's probably the way I would attack it if I didn't have the tools I have.

 

[wachuko]

See if you can find one used.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-horsepower-heavy-duty-milling-drilling-machine-33686.html

Will do. Thank you. And will practice in my head the conversation with the wife to justify the expense, lol. "Honey, no shop would do this due to liability... I really need this to track straight for my safety..."

 

[kazlx]

"That's the same drill press I've had for years..."

 

[rsanter]

You can do the job on your drill press. You are not supposed to put a side load on the spindle of a drill press as they are not made for it.
However if you get the right size of bottom cutting end mill or spot cutter then you can center the bit on the part you want milled and then just down feed carefully and slowly

With that said I think I would take one of the offers here to do it for you

Bob

 

[wachuko]

You can do the job on your drill press. You are not supposed to put a side load on the spindle of a drill press as they are not made for it.
However if you get the right size of bottom cutting end mill or spot cutter then you can center the bit on the part you want milled and then just down feed carefully and slowly

With that said I think I would take one of the offers here to do it for you

Bob

So just get a 13/16", 4 Flutes, Square End Mill and press down for 1/4" and that should do it... hummm...

Like this

 

[sberry]

Don't know anybody?

 

[wachuko]

Don't know anybody?

I will take sometime tomorrow from work and drive to a couple of places first.

I went ahead and ordered the 13/16", 4 Flutes, Square End Mill... just in case.

But either now (if I can get a local shop to do the work) or later this year, I will get that HF mill that kazlx suggested.

 

[kkroger]

You could easily use your Drill Press and a spot facer to do what you want.
it is piloted you just align the pilot with the bore and then off you go. Plunge to depth and you are done. Size it to your bored threaded holes.

 

[kkroger]

I will take sometime tomorrow from work and drive to a couple of places first.

I went ahead and ordered the 13/16", 4 Flutes, Square End Mill... just in case.

But either now (if I can get a local shop to do the work) or later this year, I will get that HF mill that kazlx suggested.

The RED mill that HF sells is superior to that thing, I have a Round Column Mill Drill Trust me spend a few more bucks and get the better tool.
it is a Mini Knee Mill instead of that glorified drill press.

 

[iajonesy]

If all else fails, try a local custom bike or hot rod shop. They would do it as time allows. I would get an end mill that is just a little larger than the o.d. of the part you want to mill, center the mill on your piece and mill it in your drill press. Just have the workpiece really tightened down and take it kind of slow on the feed and medium to high speed on the drill motor.

Mike

 

[bullnerd]

I think you missed my post from the first page,

You need a piloted spot facing tool or maybe even a counter bore with a pilot. I have counter bore bits with a removable pilot, with those you can easily make your own pilot for odd sizes. Then the drill press would work no problem. I'll look for a pic.

My computer is flaking out so this might not work.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#counterbores/=ycqbnt

Anyway McMaster carr has them.

If you were REAL handy with a bench grinder you could probably make one from scratch.

All that said, if you don't want to pay for it, scribe a line through the paint, hacksaw just to the scrap side of the line, and file/grind to the line.

 

[rsanter]

So just get a 13/16", 4 Flutes, Square End Mill and press down for 1/4" and that should do it... hummm...

Like this

Yes

Bob

 

[catalytic]

The rule about milling on a drill press is due to lateral forces against the quill/bearings.

However, many endmills are designed to plunge cut as well as cut on the side. In your case, you could do everything you need with a plunge cut and a 1/2" (or 3/4" reduced shank) endmill. Use a depth stop on the drill quill to get them the same, which is more important than hitting the removal depth within a thou for this job.

What I'm saying is, you've found a rare instance of a job where a drill press can be used safely with an endmill and this will do everything you need.

 

[Kamn]

Have you checked other forums for guys that could do it for you in your area??
Like, Chopcult.com or Dotheton.com
Lots of other bike guys out there have the equipment to do this minor fab for you
Hell, if you lived closer I would do it for you

 

[Kellyblues]

A quick search on local shop is only giving me some high-end places that work aerospace stuff... they are not going to bother with this... Don't know of any more down-to-earth shop to take it in... that is what got me thinking of what I would need to do it myself.

REALLY!!!!!! Dude go scout the factory bars and hang outs and find a tool and die person or maintenance guy. I've had hoards of people over the years approach me for stuff like that. I once welded a quarter on a hitch ball that a guy mounted on his rear bike fender and called it his " ***** Seat"