DIY Sheet metal shear?
- Thread starter Gamble
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DanarchyCustoms
Well-known member
If you use a table saw, make sure to wear a full face mask and a long (but tight) sleeve shirt. Otherwise it will be painful. 
Lol I don't have a table saw and my bandsaw is a 9" craftsman and I haven't a clue on how to add a jackshaft and do all the measurements etc to convert it. Figured a sheet metal shear is small enough to put away when not in use and won't make a mess.
Never cared for a circular saw and I have one that is setup for wood. Don't want to be switching blades every time I have to.
Never cared for a circular saw and I have one that is setup for wood. Don't want to be switching blades every time I have to.
DIYKiah
Well-known member
Have you checked craigslist? I would think with the building industry slowing down so much that someone would be hawking one off on craigslist or something... just a thought!
BMS
Well-known member
How about this? The problem with wood saws on metal is the blade speed is so much higher for wood than it should be for metal.
http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/us/evolution_fury.html
http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/us/evolution_fury.html
CarterKraft
Well-known member
For aluminum I don't think it matters much on the blade RPM issue. I use my Ryobi 10" miter saw for alluminum tubing with the stock blade it came with no issues what so ever.
It actually works awesome and is my go to Al tube cutting tool.
I can't cut straight on my band saw either but I have found that a 12" disc sander will straighten cuts really fast and make some knarly looking cuts come out great.
Maybe if you want to make a tool try a 2" belt sander with a long platten. Something like this.
knife making grinders
It actually works awesome and is my go to Al tube cutting tool.
I can't cut straight on my band saw either but I have found that a 12" disc sander will straighten cuts really fast and make some knarly looking cuts come out great.
Maybe if you want to make a tool try a 2" belt sander with a long platten. Something like this.
knife making grinders
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Will this help? McMaster has .080 in 12 inch square sheets.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-aluminum-sheets/=gvpo9a
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-aluminum-sheets/=gvpo9a
rsanter
Well-known member
Someone makes them, there was a thread not long ago with a guy asking what we thought of them
Bob
Bob
I have one. Problem is I have 1 really good eye and one really bad eye so it's hard for me to eyeball it straight
I order from online metals but I end up cutting them shorter.
I'll look again but I couldn't find one. If you find it please post it.
papabil
Well-known member
why not use your plasma cutter
kmacht
Well-known member
Check out the hand shear at:
http://www.woodwardfab.com/sheet_metal_shearing_tools.htm
It can make nice straight cuts of any length and is about $140 with shipping. Have used one for a number of years when building my airplane and love it. The bandsaw can be used at the same speed as wood for aluminum. Just use a sharp high tooth count blade. For thinner aluminum (.040 and under) score the metal with a scoring blade made for linolium found at home depot or lowes. Use a ruler as a straight edge. A dozen or so passes and you can snap it the metal right on the line for a perfectly straight cut.
Keith
http://www.woodwardfab.com/sheet_metal_shearing_tools.htm
It can make nice straight cuts of any length and is about $140 with shipping. Have used one for a number of years when building my airplane and love it. The bandsaw can be used at the same speed as wood for aluminum. Just use a sharp high tooth count blade. For thinner aluminum (.040 and under) score the metal with a scoring blade made for linolium found at home depot or lowes. Use a ruler as a straight edge. A dozen or so passes and you can snap it the metal right on the line for a perfectly straight cut.
Keith
The Woodwardfab throatless Hand shear. $110 + $30 shipping = $140 delivered (tax not included)
But you have a plasma cutter? Just clamp a straight edge to the workpiece and drag the plasma along the guide and make the cut.
OOO duh. I was looking for a non throatless one. I saw a video of one of those, maybe the one from harbor freight and it seemed that when you cut a piece the other side ends up being useless after that. I wanted one that doesn't wrinkle or mess with the other side
Ideally I was looking for one like this
Ideally I was looking for one like this
Tell me more -- what are you trying to make, etc. How many pieces do you need to cut?
One of the easiest ways to cut thin aluminum is with a straight edge and a new blade in your utility knife. simply score the aluminum sheet on your mark. Clamp it to the edge of your workbench. Use a straight piece of 2x4 on the section that overhangs the workbench and bend it down. The piece will snap on the score line giving you a straight line cut. If you have a lot of this to do, you could actually make yourself a wooden "brake" with a couple pieces of wood and a couple of hinges. Google "metal brake" and make a simplified version of that. You won't need much strength in the brake you build (so it can be made out of wood) since aluminum is so soft. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Jim Don
One of the easiest ways to cut thin aluminum is with a straight edge and a new blade in your utility knife. simply score the aluminum sheet on your mark. Clamp it to the edge of your workbench. Use a straight piece of 2x4 on the section that overhangs the workbench and bend it down. The piece will snap on the score line giving you a straight line cut. If you have a lot of this to do, you could actually make yourself a wooden "brake" with a couple pieces of wood and a couple of hinges. Google "metal brake" and make a simplified version of that. You won't need much strength in the brake you build (so it can be made out of wood) since aluminum is so soft. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Jim Don
machine_punk
Well-known member
That machine you are showing is actually a shear AND a brake AND a roll. I have just ordered a similar machine from Baileigh (50 inch, 16ga CRS capacity)...
http://www.baileighindustrial.com/shears/sbr-5216.php
The issue is that the 0.080 sheet you want to cut straight is pretty heavy, for 'sheet metal' (looks like it works out to be '12 gauge' on the gauge charts)...
http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/scales/sheetmetal.html
Most of the little Chinese machines are rated at 20 gauge CRS (Cold Rolled Steel), which MAY let you go up to 18 or 16 gauge aluminum (or it may not...they are a little liberal with their ratings), but would likely NOT stretch all the way up to 12 gauge with aluminum. The new Baileigh combo machine is rated at 16ga CRS, which the manual SAYS means that it could do up to 10ga aluminum, I'll let you know when it arrives and I get it set up (but it is listed as a $2K machine).
I did a quick review of Grizzly's site (also sells similar Chinese tools to the one you showed)...
The 12" plate shear, for $125, which appears to be more than heavy enough for your uses (my working definition for 'plate vs. sheet' is: It is called sheet if you measure it in gauge, it is called plate if you measure it in fractional inches)...
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Plate-Shear-12-/T23123
I use a table saw to cut all the way up through 1/4" ALUMINUM plate all the time (do NOT do this with steel!!!). I have a regular contractor's 10" table saw, with a non-ferrous blade installed. The cuts are dead straight and need very little cleanup when done...
View media item 12736
View media item 12713I know you said you don't have a table saw, but they are out there all over CL for $50-$100 in my area. Worst case, go to HD and get one for $200.
The non-ferrous blade is VERY easy to find--HD has them for sale for about $60 (the Freud Diablo Non-Ferrous blade--it is also a Laminate Countertop blade, which is also rated for non-ferrous metals). I keep it loaded in my table saw all the time and it does a good job on the simple wood cuts I need too. (you are looking for a triple-chip cut blade, with a thin kerf.)...
View media item 12711
I also keep a non-ferrous blade in my circular saw. I think I use the Onsrud non-ferrous blade in that saw. I also make wood cuts all the time (2x4s, MDF, plywood) with that blade and it works well....
View media item 13009
Use all of the normal safety precautions with table saws. Definitely wear a full face mask, goggles, and long sleeves. The swarf (what you call 'chips,' when working with metal, instead of wood) fly everywhere and they hurt a little on exposed skin (which makes it hard to concentrate on safely cutting the aluminum sheet/plate).
--- Again, DO NOT do this with steel! ---
See my 'cutting aluminum with a table saw' thread here...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122619
Like everyone else, I'd like to see what you are working on! Snap a few pics and let us see.
M_P
http://www.baileighindustrial.com/shears/sbr-5216.php
The issue is that the 0.080 sheet you want to cut straight is pretty heavy, for 'sheet metal' (looks like it works out to be '12 gauge' on the gauge charts)...
http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/scales/sheetmetal.html
Most of the little Chinese machines are rated at 20 gauge CRS (Cold Rolled Steel), which MAY let you go up to 18 or 16 gauge aluminum (or it may not...they are a little liberal with their ratings), but would likely NOT stretch all the way up to 12 gauge with aluminum. The new Baileigh combo machine is rated at 16ga CRS, which the manual SAYS means that it could do up to 10ga aluminum, I'll let you know when it arrives and I get it set up (but it is listed as a $2K machine).
I did a quick review of Grizzly's site (also sells similar Chinese tools to the one you showed)...
The 12" plate shear, for $125, which appears to be more than heavy enough for your uses (my working definition for 'plate vs. sheet' is: It is called sheet if you measure it in gauge, it is called plate if you measure it in fractional inches)...
http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Plate-Shear-12-/T23123
I use a table saw to cut all the way up through 1/4" ALUMINUM plate all the time (do NOT do this with steel!!!). I have a regular contractor's 10" table saw, with a non-ferrous blade installed. The cuts are dead straight and need very little cleanup when done...
View media item 12736
View media item 12713I know you said you don't have a table saw, but they are out there all over CL for $50-$100 in my area. Worst case, go to HD and get one for $200.
The non-ferrous blade is VERY easy to find--HD has them for sale for about $60 (the Freud Diablo Non-Ferrous blade--it is also a Laminate Countertop blade, which is also rated for non-ferrous metals). I keep it loaded in my table saw all the time and it does a good job on the simple wood cuts I need too. (you are looking for a triple-chip cut blade, with a thin kerf.)...
View media item 12711
I also keep a non-ferrous blade in my circular saw. I think I use the Onsrud non-ferrous blade in that saw. I also make wood cuts all the time (2x4s, MDF, plywood) with that blade and it works well....
View media item 13009
Use all of the normal safety precautions with table saws. Definitely wear a full face mask, goggles, and long sleeves. The swarf (what you call 'chips,' when working with metal, instead of wood) fly everywhere and they hurt a little on exposed skin (which makes it hard to concentrate on safely cutting the aluminum sheet/plate).
--- Again, DO NOT do this with steel! ---
See my 'cutting aluminum with a table saw' thread here...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122619
Like everyone else, I'd like to see what you are working on! Snap a few pics and let us see.
M_P
Last edited:
PCO6
Well-known member
A bead roller with cutting mandrels works well ... something like what this guy is doing but with a fence so you can get a straight edge.
I have a basic bead roller like the one the Eastwood Company sells and it works well for this purpose.
I have a basic bead roller like the one the Eastwood Company sells and it works well for this purpose.
How about taking it to a local metal supply store and see if they will snip it for a few bucks with their sheer? Or maybe a machine shop? The left over is normally still useable.
Is it for only a few pieces or are you doing a bunch?
Is it for only a few pieces or are you doing a bunch?
kmacht
Well-known member
OOO duh. I was looking for a non throatless one. I saw a video of one of those, maybe the one from harbor freight and it seemed that when you cut a piece the other side ends up being useless after that. I wanted one that doesn't wrinkle or mess with the other side
Ideally I was looking for one like this
The throatless one I linked from Woodward fab doesn't ruin the other side of the sheetmetal when you cut it. Both edges come out fine. There is no wrinkling or dimpling of either side like when you use hand shears. I wouldn't bother with that 3 in 1 you have in the picture if what you want is mostly a shear. I have one and it is a pain to use. On the shear portion it has a big clamping bar that comes down in front of the shear. It is next to impossible to see your cut line because of that clamping bar. The brake on it works fine but you have no way to adjust the bending radius without using scrap metal between your part and the die. The roller is useless as the friction adjuster doesn't work that well. Save your money and buy three seperate dedicated machines if that is what you want.
Keith