Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT DIY Shop
- Thread starter Jeff Ivers
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thanks for visiting and posting!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
This is a teaser to a project I actually started before the planer cabinet.
I have this old printer stand. How old you ask? So old that it has the slot in the top for tractor feed paper to be fed to a dot matrix printer.
I want to add a wood top and a wood pull-out shelf. I made the top from a couple of scraps of 1x2 oak and some oak pallet lumber. The top is only 3/8 inch thick, but since it will be sitting on metal, that will be strong enough. To attach the top, I wanted to screw from the inside of the lip into the wood that trims the edge (the only wood thick enough to accept a screw).
After several failed attempts to start a screw in this confined area, I resorted to this:
At my age (68) I frequently can't tell if something is an original idea of mine or if it is a dredged up memory from something I saw years ago. Nevertheless, I post it here in case it will help someone else.
I then had to add some brackets to support the drawer slides. Once the finish on the drawer tray dries and I install it, I will post finished pics.
I have this old printer stand. How old you ask? So old that it has the slot in the top for tractor feed paper to be fed to a dot matrix printer.
I want to add a wood top and a wood pull-out shelf. I made the top from a couple of scraps of 1x2 oak and some oak pallet lumber. The top is only 3/8 inch thick, but since it will be sitting on metal, that will be strong enough. To attach the top, I wanted to screw from the inside of the lip into the wood that trims the edge (the only wood thick enough to accept a screw).
After several failed attempts to start a screw in this confined area, I resorted to this:
At my age (68) I frequently can't tell if something is an original idea of mine or if it is a dredged up memory from something I saw years ago. Nevertheless, I post it here in case it will help someone else.
I then had to add some brackets to support the drawer slides. Once the finish on the drawer tray dries and I install it, I will post finished pics.
Unruh
Well-known member
Great projects. A couple things...
When I made my clamp rack, I made it too big and then told my wife that I needed to fill in the holes, you should have made that thing twice the size!
That planer cart is just right! Great work.
How are things progressing with the bandsaw? One I was impressed with was the Jet - 14" Deluxe Pro Bandsaw, Model JWBS-14DXPRO. It has a quick release for changing blades and a 12 inch resaw capacity.
When I made my clamp rack, I made it too big and then told my wife that I needed to fill in the holes, you should have made that thing twice the size!
That planer cart is just right! Great work.
How are things progressing with the bandsaw? One I was impressed with was the Jet - 14" Deluxe Pro Bandsaw, Model JWBS-14DXPRO. It has a quick release for changing blades and a 12 inch resaw capacity.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Just went back through your entire thread, awesome garage and you have done some really cool projects, well done
Thank you Bears Fan. I have been following your thread and great builds and wish I had your artistic flair.
Great projects. A couple things...
When I made my clamp rack, I made it too big and then told my wife that I needed to fill in the holes, you should have made that thing twice the size!
That planer cart is just right! Great work.
How are things progressing with the bandsaw? One I was impressed with was the Jet - 14" Deluxe Pro Bandsaw, Model JWBS-14DXPRO. It has a quick release for changing blades and a 12 inch resaw capacity.
Hey, Unruh, great technique on your clamp rack build. My wife passed away 16 years ago so no need for similar psychology. This rack was built to hold almost all my bar clamps and fit in the only free wall space I could find.
I used the planer cart for the first time yesterday and am really enjoying it - so much that I have started the build of a similar cabinet for my belt/disk sander.
As for the band saw, I have been eyeing that very model of Jet, but have decided to clear some things from the shop, including my radial arm saw before considering taking the plunge.
Loved your cutting board build with your daughter!
Bret, thanks for stopping in. Project updates to follow.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Beside taking time out to keep up with the mowing and redoing one flower bed, I have continued to plug away on my "Corona projects".
Current projects and status:
C-clamp rack - still gathering info.
Router cabinet - in design phase.
Printer table - still working on the finish of the drawer tray.
Belt/disk sander cabinet - under construction.
Security stand - parts assembled and cut.
I finished the top of the printer stand.
The most used tool in my shop is probably my belt/disk sander. I recently sold my Craftsman version of this and acquired this new one that is the same size. For years, I have used this Workmate 200 knockoff as a tool stand but found myself leaving the belt/disk sander on it full time and setting up another Workmate 200 when I wanted to use another one of my tools that I had configured to clamp into a Workmate. Sine I like my new planer cabinet so well, I have decided to make a similar cabinet for my belt/disk sander.
I started in the barn where I drug the last of the saved lumber off the top of the tack room.
After work with the table saw and planer, I ended up with this.
Yesterday, I used the table saw and stacked dado to reduce down to this.
I have had a Workmate 300 for years, but it usually looks like this - configured as a "temporary work table".
One of my Workmate 200s was fitted with a replacement set of jaws a few years ago. When I went to use it the other day, I realized I had not checked that I had wallowed the holes out to the correct size to accept my stops and clamps. So, I rectified that and refinished the top.
Current projects and status:
C-clamp rack - still gathering info.
Router cabinet - in design phase.
Printer table - still working on the finish of the drawer tray.
Belt/disk sander cabinet - under construction.
Security stand - parts assembled and cut.
I finished the top of the printer stand.
The most used tool in my shop is probably my belt/disk sander. I recently sold my Craftsman version of this and acquired this new one that is the same size. For years, I have used this Workmate 200 knockoff as a tool stand but found myself leaving the belt/disk sander on it full time and setting up another Workmate 200 when I wanted to use another one of my tools that I had configured to clamp into a Workmate. Sine I like my new planer cabinet so well, I have decided to make a similar cabinet for my belt/disk sander.
I started in the barn where I drug the last of the saved lumber off the top of the tack room.
After work with the table saw and planer, I ended up with this.
Yesterday, I used the table saw and stacked dado to reduce down to this.
I have had a Workmate 300 for years, but it usually looks like this - configured as a "temporary work table".
One of my Workmate 200s was fitted with a replacement set of jaws a few years ago. When I went to use it the other day, I realized I had not checked that I had wallowed the holes out to the correct size to accept my stops and clamps. So, I rectified that and refinished the top.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
The other project I have under way is a security stand.
The raw materials.
One of my favorite ways to clean up metal in preparation for welding is a 3M paint/varnish remover in my angle die grinder.
After a few minutes outside:
Even works well on the green powder coat.
I just need to wipe down the metal bits with some acryli-clean and they will be ready to weld.
The raw materials.
One of my favorite ways to clean up metal in preparation for welding is a 3M paint/varnish remover in my angle die grinder.
After a few minutes outside:
Even works well on the green powder coat.
I just need to wipe down the metal bits with some acryli-clean and they will be ready to weld.
Jayman17
Well-known member
Hi, I just finished up your thread today. You have a nice size shop and do some interesting projects, I've enjoyed reading through it. I like the way you try and recycle/reuse materials. Hope you enjoy more tinkering in your shop and keep the updates coming! 
Jay
Jay
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Hi, I just finished up your thread today. You have a nice size shop and do some interesting projects, I've enjoyed reading through it. I like the way you try and recycle/reuse materials. Hope you enjoy more tinkering in your shop and keep the updates coming!
Jay
Thank you for visiting and posting Jayman!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Saturday, I made some progress on three of my ongoing projects.
I finished my printer stand transformation.
Here is the printer table in place in my office.
This shows why I wanted to add a slide out shelf.
I assembled the two side panels for my belt/disk sander stand.
I began welding together my security stand. One of my welds.
My go-to tool for cleaning up my welds is a 2" twist lock sanding disk in my angle die grinder.
Cleaned up weld.
I finished my printer stand transformation.
Here is the printer table in place in my office.
This shows why I wanted to add a slide out shelf.
I assembled the two side panels for my belt/disk sander stand.
I began welding together my security stand. One of my welds.
My go-to tool for cleaning up my welds is a 2" twist lock sanding disk in my angle die grinder.
Cleaned up weld.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Today, I continued working on my security stand.
The two side assemblies.
The assembled and painted stand.
The two shelves cut out and stained.
I then continued work on the belt/disk sander stand and that is when things went to pot. Decided to quit and walk the bill payments to the post office while I contemplate how to recover from my errors.
The two side assemblies.
The assembled and painted stand.
The two shelves cut out and stained.
I then continued work on the belt/disk sander stand and that is when things went to pot. Decided to quit and walk the bill payments to the post office while I contemplate how to recover from my errors.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Bret, thanks for the encouragement. I learned a long time ago that when I make that big a mistake or several mistakes in a row, it means I have suffered brain fade. In other words, I have somehow lost concentration on what I am doing. If I continue trying to plow ahead, I will compound the problems, so a break to do other things is the solution.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
In my last project update, I indicated I had screwed up on my belt sander cabinet build.
I had clamped up the assembly in preparation for attaching the front and back runners to connect the two side assemblies. That is when I looked down and saw this:
What are those dados doing there?
I cut a 3/4 inch wide strip off the back of each side assembly and then glued/braded a replacement 3/4 inch strip in its place. As you can see, the only thing hurt (besides my pride) is the aesthetics of the build.
I just need to finish the middle shelf and attach the top and I can move onto finishing steps.
Meanwhile, I got the shelves attached to my security stand.
I had clamped up the assembly in preparation for attaching the front and back runners to connect the two side assemblies. That is when I looked down and saw this:
What are those dados doing there?
I cut a 3/4 inch wide strip off the back of each side assembly and then glued/braded a replacement 3/4 inch strip in its place. As you can see, the only thing hurt (besides my pride) is the aesthetics of the build.
I just need to finish the middle shelf and attach the top and I can move onto finishing steps.
Meanwhile, I got the shelves attached to my security stand.
OP
Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
More progress on the belt/disk sander stand. I had the belt/disk sander attached to a piece of plywood with a cleat on the bottom so that I could chuck it into a workmate clone. I did not want to wast that piece of plywood. When I designed the stand, I sized it to be large enough to hold the sander but also to hold a couple of items I wanted to get off a counter. This resulted in a top dimension that exceeded the dimension of my plywood top.
I could have just rested it on top and screwed it down, but I thought it would be better to set in into the top frame. This required blind rabbits on all four sides. Due to the difficulty of trying to do that, I decided to assemble the cabinet and then cut my recess using my oscillating saw.
Here, I have clamped up a guide board to help me stay vertical and in a straight line.
I could have just rested it on top and screwed it down, but I thought it would be better to set in into the top frame. This required blind rabbits on all four sides. Due to the difficulty of trying to do that, I decided to assemble the cabinet and then cut my recess using my oscillating saw.
Here, I have clamped up a guide board to help me stay vertical and in a straight line.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Finished my belt/disk sander cabinet. Eventually, I will add a door to this, but other projects are more important right now.
After much good input from other GJers, I decided on how I wanted to make a C-clamp rack.
This is my starting point - more pallet lumber.
After much good input from other GJers, I decided on how I wanted to make a C-clamp rack.
This is my starting point - more pallet lumber.
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
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Jeff Ivers
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Finished my c-clamp rack.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Thank you, Bret. I have been admiring your wall art project and waiting to see the completed picture. I also see you too have been bitten by the " I need to improve where I work bug". Much better that than Covid!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
My next major project is a router cabinet. I have been somewhat delayed on it due to parts acquisition and time to complete the design which is a bit more complicated than my belt/disk sander and planer cabinets. I finally tracked down something to use as the table top.
Thanks to a chip on the finish, Lowes sold it to me for half price. I really wanted formica laminated plywood, but this will do.
Today, I cut off the unneeded bends so the trash man can haul them off tomorrow. There is a reason, as you can see, that I keep that box of little 2/4 blocks on my shop wall. Got a fancy switch and router plate insert. Still waiting on my casters and my first ever piece of baltic birch plywood - hope that doesn't send my shop into shock.
Thanks to a chip on the finish, Lowes sold it to me for half price. I really wanted formica laminated plywood, but this will do.
Today, I cut off the unneeded bends so the trash man can haul them off tomorrow. There is a reason, as you can see, that I keep that box of little 2/4 blocks on my shop wall. Got a fancy switch and router plate insert. Still waiting on my casters and my first ever piece of baltic birch plywood - hope that doesn't send my shop into shock.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I have spent a lot of time lately working on "flower beds". I discovered my bark mulch had turned to dirt and was creating a breeding ground for weeds. So, I have raked all the old "mulch" out and spread it on low places in the lawn. I have put down 80 bags of new mulch and have 10 to go to finish the task.
So far, no adverse effects from bringing into the shop the first ever piece of baltic birch plywood that the shop has seen! I decided I wanted to laminate a piece of that to my cut down counter top that will make the top of my router table.
I found time between rain storms this week to roll the table saw and dust collection equipment out to the driveway and proceed to cut most of the pieces of wood that I need for the router cabinet. I am still trying to clean up the shop from the earlier woodworking projects.
I think I counted just under 50 different pieces that will form the basic cabinet. This does not include the area between the bottom of the table top and the top of the tool storage area. I will finish the design and construction of that after I finish the basic cabinet.
Laid out the areas of the top that require modifications. Oh, and I got to use my deep reach clamp for the first time!
So far, no adverse effects from bringing into the shop the first ever piece of baltic birch plywood that the shop has seen! I decided I wanted to laminate a piece of that to my cut down counter top that will make the top of my router table.
I found time between rain storms this week to roll the table saw and dust collection equipment out to the driveway and proceed to cut most of the pieces of wood that I need for the router cabinet. I am still trying to clean up the shop from the earlier woodworking projects.
I think I counted just under 50 different pieces that will form the basic cabinet. This does not include the area between the bottom of the table top and the top of the tool storage area. I will finish the design and construction of that after I finish the basic cabinet.
Laid out the areas of the top that require modifications. Oh, and I got to use my deep reach clamp for the first time!
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Continued with my router cabinet project:
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I had hoped by now to post finished pics of my router cabinet. This is how it stands today with the top temporarily clamped on:
I have decided (unless someone on here convinces me it is a terrible idea) to hinge the top to have full access to the the bottom of the router, and the space that is likely to accumulate some dust and chips. I have also decided to have a drawer either side of the central router area above the top shelf. So, on April 22, I ordered drawer slides from a place in Florida. The order was messed up and I still do not have what I need to move forward with that part of the project.
Since I had done so much woodworking during the late winter and spring with inadequate dust collection and air filtration, the shop was an absolute mess. So I commenced one of my periodic deep cleans. As part of that I came up with some additional minor projects.
I used to have a very old milk crate mounted under the shop press to hold those bits that I have accumulated that helped with pressing operations. During the clean, I discovered the crate had broken, so I made this wood box to replace it.
I also decided I need a second block rack.
Today I had enough of the cleaning done that I could roll things aside and pull the pickup in for an oil change (forgot to take a pic of the truck in place). For those of you designing shops, I built a 24 by 50. This was way before I had heard about GJ and when I had never owned a vehicle larger than a Toyota station wagon. My actual inside depth is 23 feet and I have an 18" cabinet on the north wall opposite the workbay door. That leaves 21.5 feet of depth. I can pull the pickup in and up on ramps and close the door while I work, but more depth would be nicer.
Meanwhile, I cut out the wood pieces for my gas pump display shelf and designed my next project after that.
I have decided (unless someone on here convinces me it is a terrible idea) to hinge the top to have full access to the the bottom of the router, and the space that is likely to accumulate some dust and chips. I have also decided to have a drawer either side of the central router area above the top shelf. So, on April 22, I ordered drawer slides from a place in Florida. The order was messed up and I still do not have what I need to move forward with that part of the project.
Since I had done so much woodworking during the late winter and spring with inadequate dust collection and air filtration, the shop was an absolute mess. So I commenced one of my periodic deep cleans. As part of that I came up with some additional minor projects.
I used to have a very old milk crate mounted under the shop press to hold those bits that I have accumulated that helped with pressing operations. During the clean, I discovered the crate had broken, so I made this wood box to replace it.
I also decided I need a second block rack.
Today I had enough of the cleaning done that I could roll things aside and pull the pickup in for an oil change (forgot to take a pic of the truck in place). For those of you designing shops, I built a 24 by 50. This was way before I had heard about GJ and when I had never owned a vehicle larger than a Toyota station wagon. My actual inside depth is 23 feet and I have an 18" cabinet on the north wall opposite the workbay door. That leaves 21.5 feet of depth. I can pull the pickup in and up on ramps and close the door while I work, but more depth would be nicer.
Meanwhile, I cut out the wood pieces for my gas pump display shelf and designed my next project after that.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
After I got the shop cleaned up enough to pull something into the work bay,
I pulled the pickup in and changed the oil on it. Then I pulled the Vette in and changed the oil on it and detailed it.
Then I got back to work on my projects.
I had left the router cabinet in this state:
I have decided to hinge the top (Thanks for the feedback, Bret). The center of the top above the shelf will be divided into four compartments - 2 storage drawers, router, and switch. Because this is my first attempt at drawers and the narrow width of each shelf, I decided i needed to make partitions that I could slide in and disassemble again, if needed.
First, I installed some drawer slide mounting cleets on the outer walls.
Then, I installed slides on the outer walls and on the slide-in dividers.
Once the dividers were in place and the drawers attached, I screwed down the dividers and then added an extension on the top of each divider.
Front view:
Drawers out:
Top view:
I am also working on two other projects at the same time. I've spent a lot of time creating dust.
I pulled the pickup in and changed the oil on it. Then I pulled the Vette in and changed the oil on it and detailed it.
Then I got back to work on my projects.
I had left the router cabinet in this state:
I have decided to hinge the top (Thanks for the feedback, Bret). The center of the top above the shelf will be divided into four compartments - 2 storage drawers, router, and switch. Because this is my first attempt at drawers and the narrow width of each shelf, I decided i needed to make partitions that I could slide in and disassemble again, if needed.
First, I installed some drawer slide mounting cleets on the outer walls.
Then, I installed slides on the outer walls and on the slide-in dividers.
Once the dividers were in place and the drawers attached, I screwed down the dividers and then added an extension on the top of each divider.
Front view:
Drawers out:
Top view:
I am also working on two other projects at the same time. I've spent a lot of time creating dust.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
As I prepared for this post, I discovered I have been working on my router cabinet for almost 2 months. I have had several other projects intrude and am currently balancing work on 3 projects. More on the other 2 later.
I have continued working on the top compartments. Since I had a switch to install and because of its weird shape, I decided to install a rework box in the front panel. Oops, standard rework box is too shallow. So I get the deep rework box. Had to chisel off some ribs on the inside to get the switch to fit.
Probably should have skipped the rework box and just gone to the effort to shape an appropriate hole in the front panel.
I did the wiring.
When I built the drawers, which are glued together, I forgot about pre-drilling holes for attaching the false front and the drawer pull. And, I sized the partitions for what I would be storing in each section and did not allow for drawer pull mounting screw heads to protrude into the space. My brainstorm of the day was when I finally remembered that many deck and cement board screws have a self-countersink feature. So, I stuck a screw thru the hole from inside the drawer, tightened the drill chuck around the protruding screw and drilled while gently trying to pull the screw thru the hole.
Success! Coutersunk holes on the back side of the drawer front where I did not have space to get a drill in.
Added a grill for air intake and some drawer hardware and here is where I stand now.
I have continued working on the top compartments. Since I had a switch to install and because of its weird shape, I decided to install a rework box in the front panel. Oops, standard rework box is too shallow. So I get the deep rework box. Had to chisel off some ribs on the inside to get the switch to fit.
Probably should have skipped the rework box and just gone to the effort to shape an appropriate hole in the front panel.
I did the wiring.
When I built the drawers, which are glued together, I forgot about pre-drilling holes for attaching the false front and the drawer pull. And, I sized the partitions for what I would be storing in each section and did not allow for drawer pull mounting screw heads to protrude into the space. My brainstorm of the day was when I finally remembered that many deck and cement board screws have a self-countersink feature. So, I stuck a screw thru the hole from inside the drawer, tightened the drill chuck around the protruding screw and drilled while gently trying to pull the screw thru the hole.
Success! Coutersunk holes on the back side of the drawer front where I did not have space to get a drill in.
Added a grill for air intake and some drawer hardware and here is where I stand now.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Hi Jeff, can you elaborate on the grill for intake you mentioned in the last caption? Not sure I understand the purpose.
Thanks,
Rick
Thanks,
Rick
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
The back panel of the cabinet has been drilled to allow me to "plug in" a shop vac hose for dust extraction. I read someone else's project thread where they had to provide an "input" for air in order for the dust extraction to work effectively. The intermediate panel that separates the switch from the router has also been drilled for air flow. We'll see if this works when I finish the project.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
I'm still bouncing around between 3 different projects. When I finished my gas pump in September 2019, I had a number of parts left over.
I still have some work to do on this. But, I got the pile of wood off the shop floor. This project will now go into a hold status until I decide how to finish it off and complete the top body work.
I still have some work to do on this. But, I got the pile of wood off the shop floor. This project will now go into a hold status until I decide how to finish it off and complete the top body work.
Jayman17
Well-known member
That's a great idea, I really like it. What is going on top?
Jay
Jay
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Hi Jay! I am looking for a Capco and appropriate lenses to go above the top panel - may buy repo if I don't stumble across something. The top panel, below the eventual globe, is in place in bare metal. I had originally thrown that panel in my recycle metal bin, thinking it was too far gone - huge dent. When I started on this project, I dug the panel out of my recycle stuff and decided to try to straighten it. When I got it close enough to believe that I could finish it off suitably, I switched to working on the shelf supports and shelves. I am not yet sure how I will trim out the area under the top panel nor what I am going to do about all the openings in the side panels.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Hey Jeff, concerning the “intake”, I see what you are getting at. But in my experience, you want max air flow where the dust and chips are made, near the router bit. Max airflow right there will bring the most dust with it to your dc or shop vac. You may end up capping the intake, but let us know how it works.
Rick
Rick
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
BTW, I’ve commented on your gas pump before but every time I see it I’m reminded how cool it is and how well it turned out. Great job. I’m partial to the pump projects after my visible pump restoration.
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Jeff Ivers
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Hey, TWW, you may well be right about needing to close the intake. I tend to do a lot of "seat of the pants" engineering. In other words, instead of trying to figure out how to educate myself on airflow issues, I look for a project similar to mine and "borrow" ideas. I watched a U-tube video of a lady who built a router table similar to mine in that the center portion of the table (around the router) was essentially air tight. After drilling the back panel for the insertion of the hose, she ran a test quantity of routing and then checked around the router to find some dust residue. She then drilled the front panel and reran her test to find very little dust. If you look at posts 269 and 270, you can see that I have a slide out partition behind the switch that separates it from the router. If I discover dust in the area of the router, I can easily duct tape up those openings in the slide out panel to experiment and replace that panel with a solid panel if necessary. If that turns out to be the best way, I can easily make a new front panel without the grill.
Thank you for the comments on my gas pump. You did a really nice job on your Standard visible. Isn't it neat the way they used to make ceramic light sockets so you can disassemble them and restore them?
Jeff
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Jeff Ivers
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I was making such good progress on the 3 projects that I have been alternating between that, of course, some maintenance issues cropped up. Had to roll things aside and pull the Kubota in the shop. It currently has 112 hours on it.
This is the reason I had to pull it in.
My pictures aren't real great, but it appears to me there was insufficient penetration on the welds on this assembly.
The same thing happened to the other side last fall.
This is one of the projects I had to roll to the side.
This is the reason I had to pull it in.
My pictures aren't real great, but it appears to me there was insufficient penetration on the welds on this assembly.
The same thing happened to the other side last fall.
This is one of the projects I had to roll to the side.
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Jeff Ivers
Well-known member
Managed to get back to my router cabinet project for a bit.
Got the top hinged onto the cabinet. Decided I wanted to try out the plunge router capabilities of my new router and use the hinge template set I acquired years ago and had never used. Discovered the new router with the dust collection installed would not plunge deep enough with the bit I had, so bought a new (taller) bit.
Then I needed to devise a way to hold the top open, when desired. Decided to go cheep on this feature and try to use something from the shop.
Of course, I needed a place to store the "pin" in the down position.
When I originally started this project, I was going to use my old B&D router (which since died). I assumed I would just bolt the base to the under side of the plate. As my build evolved, I found out about router lifts and thought that might be a better way. I have looked at a ton of U-tube builds and plans for home-made router lifts. There is one set of plans the looks like it is well designed, but to make it work, I should have inserted the router plate vertical instead of horizontal.
I am still working on a lift design, but decided to start prepping a lift actuator rod.
Drilled a hole in the end of a .5 inch threaded rod.
Epoxied in a T30 head bolt that I can activate from the top of the plate.
Got the top hinged onto the cabinet. Decided I wanted to try out the plunge router capabilities of my new router and use the hinge template set I acquired years ago and had never used. Discovered the new router with the dust collection installed would not plunge deep enough with the bit I had, so bought a new (taller) bit.
Then I needed to devise a way to hold the top open, when desired. Decided to go cheep on this feature and try to use something from the shop.
Of course, I needed a place to store the "pin" in the down position.
When I originally started this project, I was going to use my old B&D router (which since died). I assumed I would just bolt the base to the under side of the plate. As my build evolved, I found out about router lifts and thought that might be a better way. I have looked at a ton of U-tube builds and plans for home-made router lifts. There is one set of plans the looks like it is well designed, but to make it work, I should have inserted the router plate vertical instead of horizontal.
I am still working on a lift design, but decided to start prepping a lift actuator rod.
Drilled a hole in the end of a .5 inch threaded rod.
Epoxied in a T30 head bolt that I can activate from the top of the plate.