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Do I need 1/2 drive sockets and ratchet

8200rpm

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Jun 21, 2015
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SoCal
I'm in the market for 1/2" drive sockets and ratchet.

I'm a home auto DIY and currently have:

1/4" metric, SAE (4-13mm, 5/32-1/2) shallow chrome sockets
3/8" metric, SAE (8-19mm, 5/16-3/4) deep and shallow chrome sockets, ratchet, and breaker bar
1/2" torque wrench

Incoming for xmas from the wifey, 1/2" impact wrench for easier disassembly (lug nuts, axles, suspension, etc).

I will definitely buy:

1/2" deep impact metric, 6-pt (11-32mm).
1/2" breaker bar, 25" long

Do I need???:

  • 1/2" CHROME sockets (deep or shallow)???
  • 1/2" ratchet???

I'm thinking NO on the 1/2" chrome sockets since I have sizes up to 19mm covered by my 3/8" set if I need thin walled sockets.

The only place I would need larger than a 19mm is a 22mm crank bolt and 32mm axle nut. For disassembly, the impact socket with breaker bar or impact wrench should clear that no problem.

For reassembly work, i can use my 3/8" ratchet with 1/2" adapter then torque down with my 1/2" torque wrench.

Is a 1/2" chrome socket set and 1/2" ratchet really that useful for light autos at home if I have a 1/2" impact wrench and impact sockets?
 
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bcradio

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The ratchet(s) would be useful, but not much need for 1/2" chromes if you have impacts already. 1/2" chromes would mainly be a nice-to-have.
 

Voi

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Western South Dakota
I'm in a similar boat. I have an older Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and have a 1/2" impact coming. I do not currently have a 1/2" ratchet and have very few 1/2" sockets.

I'm leaning towards one of the Gray Pneumatic duo sets in 1/2". As I understand it they're impact sockets with a similar overall O.D. as chrome sockets. Some of the sets come with a ratchet. I've seen on YouTube that the ratchets aren't the greatest but neither or any of my 3/8" ratchets.

It seems like a good compromise for somebody like me. I don't know if any other company makes a similar set.
 

maxdustington

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I was in the same boat as a DIYer, I just kept my eyes open and got a set of Gray 1/2 metric 12 point and than a old SK fractional socket set with a case big enough for both sets of sockets. I think together they cost me like $60 CDN.

You will end up using your impact on pretty much everything but it is nice to have them for large engine or transmission drain plugs. Some things are still nice to use hand tools for and are big enough to warrant 1/2 drive.

Use the low price of fractional socket sets on the used market to your advantage.
 

IMStuner

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Maybe consider something like this or buy premium brand if you want.

a324a5e86f13e9bb0fc1961b063fb615.jpg

e1ab816c7f8642cc5645321d0773aee4.jpg

1d7f12799c5a3b2997e0207d0f501fc5.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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theoldwizard1

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You don't need them. You may need the standard length sockets in addition to the deep.

You can not beat the HF 25" Pittsburgh Pro breaker bar !
 

cvairwerks

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I'd say it depends on where you are and what all you work on. Some of the stuff that I work on, 3/8" drive works fine, while there are times that 1/2" will barely do the job. I just added a curve to a 24" long 1/2" break bar a few days ago trying to break some capscrews loose. Had to move to a 30" long bar and bowed it breaking them free. No cheater used either....:eyecrazy: For starting out, I would suggest buying the 1/2" drive sockets on an as needed basis. With the break bar, you can start the stubborn fasteners with 1/2" and switch to the 3/8" ratchet with an adapter as needed.
 
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themiller

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1/2 ratchet I find useful. Before I had this tool addiction I used a 1/2 -> 3/8 converter frequently. The upper end of 3/8 size is really better served with 1/2 ratchet. The other nice thing about 1/2 sockets is they are deeper. Sure I might have a 17mm in 3/8ths but the bolt is juuuust to long to get the ratchet on and then you need deepwell. Anyway - doing it over you’ll be fine with 1/2 impact and a single 1/2 ratchet IMO.
 

MN_Runner

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Sep 15, 2013
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For me, a long 1/2" ratchet with 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, 32mm and 36mm shallow sockets are must working on Hondas and Toyotas. Of course, 30-250 lbft 1/2" drive torque wrench is also a must too.
 

buffalobill

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Get the ratchet and sockets. Don't use impacts on ratchets all the time. I snapped a 1/2 blackhawk impact socket on my breaker bar last year. After reading about it, the chrome is harder, and takes a hard pull better, but won't take impact. Impact sockets are different, I want to say softer, but that might not be right. But they are not good to pull on all the time with hand tools.

When I thought I broke the bolt loose, it was my impact letting go.
 

Rarified27

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I have one 1/2" ratchet; an SK 40170, 15" handle and a small set of shallow chrome sockets which are used maybe once a year.

Where I find the 1/2 truly helpful is when a size more likely to be thought of as for 3/8 needs some extra convincing to move without putting 2ft of breaker bar on it. Speaking of- the HF bar some people mentioned above can be a great help.

It's the same reason I love my short handled 1/4 for jobs where a nut driver is too slow/won't fit, but I can't over tighten.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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I use my 1/2 rat as much as 3/8.
If an impact socket won't fit, you can grind it down pretty easily, but I use chrome as well.
 

Empty Pockets

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You can do what you need without the chrome 1/2".

However, this is Garage Journal, and it is almost sacrilegious to suggest that you don't need more tools. Just my opinion.
 

visionguru

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Chicago
......
Is a 1/2" chrome socket set and 1/2" ratchet really that useful for light autos at home if I have a 1/2" impact wrench and impact sockets?

Yes! Unless the bolt is very exposed, such as lug nuts and some suspension bolts, 1/2" impact wrench is not practical. I found that 3/8" struggles with a stubborn bolt larger than 17mm, too much flex.

For example, I had a 19mm ATF fill bolt that is deep in the engine bay and super tight. I tried many times with 3/8" ratchet, socket, with long extension. I turned ratchet to the point that the extension or the ratchet might snap, the bolt didn't budge.
With 1/2", it just came off without much struggle. Some suspension bolts are just like that.

I agree with most above. Chrome socket is not necessary if you already have impact sockets.
 
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bcexplorer

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I think a long handle 1/2” ratchet is a must. Sometimes you just need to feel whats going on, plus if an impact will not loosen a bigger bolt, you have a backup. You can get a full set of missmatched usa fractional 1/2” sockets from any pawnshop for cheap. Metric harder to find. My 2 cents anyways.
 
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Diesel Mercedes

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Hmm. I'd say yes, otherwise your 3/8" ratchet will meet an early death taking off TIGHT suspension and brake caliper bolts.

I had to use a 1/2" ratchet under a floor jack to unscrew my rear diff fill and drain plug. The plugs where so ungodly tight, the rear of the car was lifted several inches into the air until it finally broke loose.
 

Advan

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I cant even fathom doing basic automotive work without a full complement of 1/2" drive tools, including a 36" breaker bar!
 

PR1Gneon

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Sep 13, 2017
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1/2" drive long ratchet
6pt shallow socket set
6pt deep socket set
12pt shallow socket set
12pt deep socket set
3pc socket extension set


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Jtels85

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I like this post! You asked an excellent question.

I’m a DIY guy who spends most of his free time working on cars, helping friends work their project cars and doing stuff around the house.

My setup is like this:

1/4 SAE/Metric standard and deep 6 point Craftsman USA sockets (G2)
3/8 SAE/Metric standard and deep 6 point Craftsman USA sockets (G2)
3/8 SAE/Metric standard and deep 12 point Craftsman USA sockets (G2 & G2D)
1/2 SAE/Metric standard 12 point Craftsman USA sockets (G2D) 22-36mm only. 1” to 1 1/4”.
1/2 SAE/Metric standard and deep Craftsman China impact sockets.

Very soon, my plan is to purchase 3/8 impact sockets in shallow and deep for my new DeWalt 20V impact driver.

Carlyle Power 90 ratchets across the board, all 3 drive sizes. These ratchets are much better quality than my Craftsman USA thin profiles or anything else Craftsman has/had. Something like 13 teeth engage with the pawl. I’ve put a mother load of torque on these things and they hold their ground.

For 1/2 drive, you would be fine with impact sockets for most of the work you would encounter, but having a set of chrome in larger sizes makes sense, especially for those rare occasions. I never understood 1/2” sockets in smaller sizes, especially in 12 point. Flank drive or not, you could do some damage to whatever bolt or nut you’re trying to break. I learned that the hard way a few times. 12 points aren’t bad, especially the modern style 12 point sockets... but I don’t use them unless I absolutely have to.
 
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isb cornbinder

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Maybe consider something like this or buy premium brand if you want.

a324a5e86f13e9bb0fc1961b063fb615.jpg

e1ab816c7f8642cc5645321d0773aee4.jpg

1d7f12799c5a3b2997e0207d0f501fc5.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have had SUNEX for decades. I used my SUNEX every day until I retired. SUNEX is as good as any of the top line tools. Sunex black impact socket walls are thin enough to substitute for chrome.
 

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cheechi

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I don't like using impact sockets with chrome ratchet, extensions, etc. However I understand people have budgets. That being said I would suggest anything you want a deep socket you want the normal/shallow depth also and vice versa.

Get a 1/2" chrome universal adapter, breaker bar, ratchet, extensions set for sure. Whether you also ever go for u joint sockets, chrome or impact, shouldn't change the value of having these on hand.

Full disclosure I have deep & shallow inch & metric impacts, deep & shallow inch & metric chromes, all in 6pt, and a set of u joint metric impacts that I almost never use (I think in 3/8 though maybe 1/2). The part I wouldn't have bought again is the deep inch ones in terms of usage, but really I'm not kidding myself I would have bought them anyway. All my impact stuff is either USA Kobalt or Taiwan HF.
 

IMStuner

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Here a good view if you really need chrome or not.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378187

I also compare my Sunex impact to my Snap-on chromes and its like .83 mm thicker. If you don’t have any budget limit than buy everything. I have too many hobbies and have to spread my money evenly and choose wisely.

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derosa

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Oct 19, 2010
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Oceanside, NY
1/2" is a necessity for me, I use a 1/2" breaker and socket to remove lug nuts. Last time I used 3/8 for the job it twisted a cheaper extension and twisted the end off a much nicer extension, 1/2" did the job fine. Recently had to do the front brakes, being in the rust belt this meant the rotors wouldn't come off for anything and I don't own a torch. I used bolts through the caliper mounting bracket to push on the rotor to add pressure for when I smacked the rotor, a 1/2" socket and long handle ratchet was much better for the task. Things like timing belts on my old volvo require pulling the front drive belt pulley, really need a decent 24mm socket and tough 1/2" ratchet. 95% of everything I do is 3/8 the other 5 couldn't be done without 1/2". Only one I don't use much at all is 1/4".
 

four.cycle

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Tacoma, Washington
8200RPM said:
Do I need???:
1/2" CHROME sockets (deep or shallow)???
1/2" ratchet???

If you're asking yourself that question, my guess is that you probably do.

Do you have your heart set on new only?
There is a glut of 1/2" drive chrome SAE sockets in the second-hand market.
You should be able to buy a complete set of used 1/2" drive SAE chrome sockets from about $25 bucks and up. The cleaner and shinier they are, and the more the brand name is recognized, the more you will pay.

METRIC 1/2" drive chrome doesn't appear to be as plentiful in the second-hand market for (what should be) obvious reasons: it's still being used.
They're out there, though, you just have to bide your time and search.

Last set of 1/2" drive METRIC chrome (shallow, 12-point) sockets I got (10mm - 32mm - no skips) was $40.00 including shipping. US made. (Only one of them appears to have been used, the rest are new.)

You can pick up pretty much any (non-tool-truck) brand of used 1/2" drive chrome ratchet off Ebay for $20 bucks and up (including shipping) if you take your time and look. The Proto 5449 will generally run about $25 and up.

Just my two cents.

==

edit: Sorry, I was a bit high on my estimate on the 1/2" drive ratchet. Here's one for $17.00 OBO including shipping. US made, middle-of-the-road performance, decent quality:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Vtg-A...cket-Wrench-10-Long-USA-Knurled-/152812235424

Personally, if I was going to only have one, I'd look for a 42470 S-K or a 5449 Proto or a 3275 Indestro (not necessarily in that order.)
 
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finn

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I wouldn’t even begin to think about working on something from the upper Great Lakes without a 1/2” drive ratchet, and a long patter one to boot.

I also find impactsockets to be clunky for general use, compared to chrome sockets.

Working without a 1/2” drive set is akin to buying only an adjustable wrench rather than fractional and metric combination wrenches. It may work for some things, but it’s certainly not ideal, or even preferable.
 

thatguysb

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Aug 5, 2015
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So far i Needed a complete set from 14mm-24mm both deep and shallow, managed to get them deep in impacts and the shallow in chrome all are 6 pt.

my axle sockets are 27,30,32,34. all are 12pt

i have one ratchet which is a 12" and a breaker bar 25", my ratchet is extreamly heavy however and i would gladly opt for one of those composite ratchets and for certain task i would like a 1/2 flexhead at 24-28"
 

Briancapecoral

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It's much easier to use a 1/2 instead of struggling with a 3/8, especially as a DIY. When under the car with not much clearance I appreciate the bolt breaking free easier with the 1/2. Also as a DIY I have to move my compressor out and wait for it to fill for the impact, and I don't want to spend that time for a couple bolts.
 

Mechanical Noise

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You may be able to get by with only 1/2" drive impact sockets for a while but, sooner or later, you're going to need a thinwall or 12 point socket. It might be safe to wait for a can't miss bargain on the chrome sockets or until you have surplus cash.

I like to have extra ratchets. The different sockets required on a job can be attached to the extra ratchets, saving time in not fumbling around with attaching and reattaching sockets. Not to mention the possibility that a ratchet might fail in the middle of a job.

The Pittsburgh Pro ratchets at HF are pretty good. for a DIYer. Used 1/2" ratchets can be pretty cheap. There's no need to spend alot on some more 1/2" drive sockets and ratchets.
 

geartow

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yes you need a 1/2 ratchet. period end of story. So when that said for the money pick up a Pittsburgh Pro ratchet and a Pittsburgh Pro breaker bar . together they will cost less then a meal for 2 at a sit down restaurant. Warrenty is good . And dollar for dollar they are the best value ,available currently . But that is only the opinion of one.
 

Aqua-Andy

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Get the ratchet and sockets. Don't use impacts on ratchets all the time. I snapped a 1/2 blackhawk impact socket on my breaker bar last year. After reading about it, the chrome is harder, and takes a hard pull better, but won't take impact. Impact sockets are different, I want to say softer, but that might not be right. But they are not good to pull on all the time with hand tools.

When I thought I broke the bolt loose, it was my impact letting go.

I would not go purchasing thousands of dollars on sockets do to an isolated event. Yes they are made with different metallurgy but using impacts with hand tools has been going on since impact sockets have been around. yes you hear about an isolated incident every once in awhile but tools sometimes break, it happens. I have been doing it for over twenty years in a professional environment and have never had one break as have many of my colleagues.
 

buffalobill

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Depends, shop around, I know I don't have multiple thousands into my 1/2 drive set, and I have chrome and impact sockets, chrome and impact extensions as well, along with a standard length carlyle power 90, a long handle mac pear head, and a proto breaker bar. I just chipped away at it, 200 bucks at a time, until I had everything needed.
 

Jacobson

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Jan 11, 2014
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I don't use my 1/2" ratchet a lot, but I do use it.
The 3/8" handle doesn't have as much torque as 1/2" ratchet.
So, it's not just about the socket size.
Sometimes, deep sockets are too big.

Often, there is not enough room for an impact wrench.
But, sometimes, there is not enough room for a breaker bar.
Plus, the breaker bar does not ratchet, and large bolts don't always hand spin out after breaking loose.

So, yes, you need 1/2" ratchet and 1/2" sockets,
you just don't need them as much.

But, when you need it, you need it.
 

Ji m

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Nov 15, 2017
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Get them, nothing worse than getting half way into a job and not having the basic tools to get it done.

For 15.00 you can't pass these up.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJ63Q8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Agree!

I just bought this same set a few weeks ago for my rolling work cart.

I have USA made 1/2" metrics in my main box,
but these Chinese Stanley sockets are excellent for the price.

They're not the generic Chinese (junk) sockets of 20-30 years ago,
for $15 even if you only drag them out once in a while when the impacts are too fat,
it's money well spent.

As far as a 1/2" ratchet,
personally I think you need both a standard length handle, and an extended handle.
As a non-pro mechanic (= wrench for "pleasure" not my livelyhood),
I have the extra time and only put lug nuts on by hand.

That's what the long handle is for.

Oh, you'll probably need a 1/2" Torque wrench at some point too :lol:
 
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