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Do I need 1/2 drive sockets and ratchet

Ji m

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Hmm. I'd say yes, otherwise your 3/8" ratchet will meet an early death taking off TIGHT suspension and brake caliper bolts.
.

....ouch, and your knuckles when it finally snaps.:mad:

Especially with those long handle 3/8" ratchets everyone has now,
they're great to reduce how hard you have to push them,
but it's easy to kick them back, or snap the drive right off it you lean on like you would a 1/2" breaker bar.

I just picked up a 14" flex ratchet in 1/4" :bounce:

I'm going to have to remember to go easy on that one :lol:
 
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Fedwrench

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As others have pointed out, needing can be subjective based on what you work on. However, I think 1/2 drive stuff is one of those areas where it is better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it :wtf:
I'm not saying you need to go hawg wild and buy every possible variation of 1/2 drive socket and drive tool available. What I am saying is that, an 18 inch or so long 1/2 drive breaker bar, a 15 inch or so long ratchet, 5 & 10 inch extensions, coupled with shallow sockets in the sizes you encounter most like 13-32 mm or 1/2-1 1/4 would enhance your capabilities. I would only get deeps in lug nut sizes 19, 21, 22 and maybe axle nut sizes if needed. Don't forget a 1/2 female to 3/8 drive male impact rated adapter to save money in the beginning. Expanding tools is a slippery slope because, it never ends. :beer:
 

PR1Gneon

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I just picked up a 14" flex ratchet in 1/4" :bounce:

I'm going to have to remember to go easy on that one [emoji38]

Which one is that?

The longest I know is 12.


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pdxgearhead

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When I started buying tools as a teen, my first socket set was a 1/2 dr because I didn't know any better. I was driving import FWD cars at the time, I never used 1/2 dr, except wheel removal. For almost 20 yrs that 1/2 dr socket set sat unused.

Fast foward to my mid thirties, I'm driving 3/4 ton pick ups. 1/2 dr is the go to set.
 

Ji m

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Which one is that?

The longest I know is 12.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

:lol_hitti

I must have had the 1 & the 4 stuck in my head from 1/4" :lol:
(sorry for the misinformation)

It's only 11" :wtf: (really just under 10.75" now that I measured it)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JQNMJOG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Decent handle so far,
seems like the drive part is the same as Tekton, tho I don't have one to directly compare it to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLY1CIE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

Dozerhand

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I'd think everybody that posts on here would have at least one 1/2 ratchet. I got my first for Christmas 48 years ago.
 

Carguy99

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Get the ratchet and sockets. Don't use impacts on ratchets all the time. I snapped a 1/2 blackhawk impact socket on my breaker bar last year. After reading about it, the chrome is harder, and takes a hard pull better, but won't take impact. Impact sockets are different, I want to say softer, but that might not be right. But they are not good to pull on all the time with hand tools.

When I thought I broke the bolt loose, it was my impact letting go.

This^^^^^
 

tym

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I have a couple of 1/2" ratchets and sets of sockets. I bought them all used, so for two ratchets and two sets of sockets (Craftsman and Bonney), I have maybe $45 invested. If the OP doesn't need them urgently, it's worth trawling the flea markets to find a decent set for low bucks.
 
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Crazyjake8493

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I have SAE and Metric 1/2" deep impact sockets, and might pick up shallow SAE soon. Haven't found a need for 1/2" drive chrome. I do have a 1/2" extendable ratchet from Harbor Freight that I use with the impact sockets a lot.
 

IMStuner

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Get the ratchet and sockets. Don't use impacts on ratchets all the time. I snapped a 1/2 blackhawk impact socket on my breaker bar last year. After reading about it, the chrome is harder, and takes a hard pull better, but won't take impact. Impact sockets are different, I want to say softer, but that might not be right. But they are not good to pull on all the time with hand tools.

When I thought I broke the bolt loose, it was my impact letting go.



Chrome sockets are harder and would wear less. Maybe the Blackhawk impact sockets are built poorly. I have yet to snap or break my impact sockets with Breaker bar with cheater pipe. I only have Snap-on and Sunex impacts.


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Mikeske

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In the early 1980's I bought a full set of Bonney SAE 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" set of sockets, ratchets and extensions as I was getting out of the Air Force at the time and going to work at a airline. Since the dealer also offered the metric sets I also got a metric 3/8" and 1/4" set. In 1987 I was hired on at Boeing and worked my entire career without needing the 1/2" set. In fact I never used the 1/2" set at work and took that entire set home. My go to at work was 1/4" set at work. IN April I retired from Boeing and now devote my time fixing and repairing things around the neighborhood. The only 1/2" I needed was a 1 5/16" socket and breaker bar for landing gear which the company provided.

At home I used that 1/2" set all the time working on projects it was invaluable to me using it on cars, trucks and tractors. IN fact I ended up buying a NAPA 3/4" set on the tractors I was working on as a hobby.

You could possibly get by without the set and I had a set of Craftsman stuff that was my backup stuff but that ended up being also my loaner stuff as I did not care if that never got returned and I never was concerned with the Craftsman stuff. The Craftsman set is in my service cart that I recently bought. I mainly use my Bonney 1/2" stuff as nobody touches them except for me.
 

Ji m

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I assume both are made in Taiwan? Looks like the Kobalt & HF mechanisms I have based on the head.

Could be China or Taiwan,
sticker from retailer is covering the info portion of factory labeling on package.
Waiting for decal to warm up from being in the garage so I can peel it without it shredding.


For my $14.99, I won't complain if it's China (I'd rather Taiwan),
I'm not planning to lean on it,
it seems pretty strong for a 1/4",
but I got it for convenience not leverage.


There is a Williams that's similar, and should be USA made for $44.66:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YREAF8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

^Not a bad deal if it's a go-to constant use tool that lasts.
 
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Hugemoose

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https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-extendable-ratchet-62311.html

I absolutely love this 1/2 drive ratchet. I find myself going for this more often than my regular gearwrench 1/2 because of it's versatility. Extend it all the way to break the bolt loose, then slid it back in and make it easier to quickly spin the bolt back out. Probably one of my most used purchases from HF.

As for sockets, I just use a chrome metric and SAE set from Gearwrench. Sure I don't often use most of them, but it's good to have, especially if I'm working with a friend and we need multiples of a particular size socket. It's easy to just use a reducer and have if easily accessible.

It's also nice to have 1/2 drive stuff for stubborn bolts, where you really don't want to risk busting a 3/8 extension if it's required to use one.
 

toolaholic

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I'd say it depends on where you are and what all you work on. Some of the stuff that I work on, 3/8" drive works fine, while there are times that 1/2" will barely do the job. I just added a curve to a 24" long 1/2" break bar a few days ago trying to break some capscrews loose. Had to move to a 30" long bar and bowed it breaking them free. No cheater used either....:eyecrazy: For starting out, I would suggest buying the 1/2" drive sockets on an as needed basis. With the break bar, you can start the stubborn fasteners with 1/2" and switch to the 3/8" ratchet with an adapter as needed.
I would have went to my wright 3/4 24” ratchet or tekton 40”
3/4 breaker
 

Tallpilot

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Decent example:

I just did my rear diff oil on my Tacoma (24mm hex). My long 1/2" flex head handled it well. Would I want to take a 1/2" impact to drain and fill plugs? I used a shallow socket because of the angle. A deep would have worked but would have been less pleasant.

I think starting with deep impacts then shallow then shallow 12 pt then chrome as budget allows is the way to go.
 

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Mr Ratchet

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Yes, you need at least one 1/2" ratchet. Not every thing can be accessed by an impact gun. If you are only getting one, I'd go with a flex around 16" to 18", locking would be better. I prefer at least two in this drive size with the second a more standard length of about 10" for clearance issues.

I had full sets of chrome way before I ever got impacts. Starting out with impacts and using them on your breaker bar and ratchet/s makes sense if you don't want to spend the extra cash on chrome sockets starting out.
 
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buffalobill

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Chrome sockets are harder and would wear less. Maybe the Blackhawk impact sockets are built poorly. I have yet to snap or break my impact sockets with Breaker bar with cheater pipe. I only have Snap-on and Sunex impacts.


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I was always under the impression that blackhawk usa was a brand under proto. I wouldnt have thought it would break. I was doing a wheel bearing on my neighbors subaru wagon, he's a decent guy, and got me a snap on replacement.
 
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sberry

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My helper has limited tools, his 1/2 set for years is a Fleet set of shallow 1/2 and a couple deeps he must have needed as singles. Its old, looks like a Proto ratchet. Its USA and looks like it was fabricated by them for the auto parts store marked back in the day.
Its not something a diy has to invest long and hard in today but part of a decent tool set. I agree, any modest ratchet, a HF 25 breaker bar and most sockets sold today would suffice.
My neighbor a master of masters still had his first 1/2 set of cman all those years. He collected some nicer brand stuff he got at discount for some of the smaller 3/8 and 1/4 as some poor sap bought them from the truck and then decided he couldn't afford them.
I used one on occasion but most of the real hard work anymore is done power drive. I reefed on all that stuff hard when I was a kid and didn't know enough to buy a few new tools, new impact gun and sockets which took the load off all the other stuff.
 
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buffalobill

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I can't believe that this thread has gotten this far, even down south or out west where things don't rust as much, YEAH, you need 1/2 drive tools to work on cars.
 

BDT/NWMN

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Long handle 1/2" drive ratchet and a breaker bar, and the needed sockets.. How long is Your air hose??

The day may come that it is three miles too short. :lol:
 

WittHay

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I was always under the impression that blackhawk usa was a brand under proto. I wouldnt have thought it would break. I was doing a wheel bearing on my neighbors subaru wagon, he's a decent guy, and got me a snap on replacement.

I don't know why but Proto impact sockets crack when used with breaker bars and cheaters. The ones in the pictures are Proto 13/16 and 7/8 from days gone by, before powerful 1/2 impacts

Snap-on impact sockets rust quicker and wear out faster but they don't break
 

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lilscorpion

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Long handle 1/2" drive ratchet and a breaker bar, and the needed sockets.. How long is Your air hose??



The day may come that it is three miles too short. :lol:



Hmmm...what’s the range of a cordless impact? AAA?

Tool setup needs to match need, align to acceptable risk, etc. I️ live by the 80/20 rule. I’m prepared for the 80% and will adapt, improvise, and overcome the other 20.

Heartbreak Ridge was an awesome movie.


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Bessy

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In short, No to chrome, yes to the ratchet, yest to the impacts. I have purchased a few chrome singles to compliment the pieces of a set I bought years ago, but the more I think about it, I should have bought those as impacts rather than chromies just to lighten the load up a bit. Yes they say that the impacts are softer metal to reduce damage from impact use and save you from cutting your hands up when the chrome you slapped onto an impact wrench explodes trying to loosen an over-tightened lug nut, but as far as I'm concerned for DIY use, you'll be hard pressed to wear out an impact with a ratchet or breaker bar. If you need something thinner walled to get into a hole somewhere, try the 3/8 drive sockets first, and if all else fails, buy the chrome you need to get the job done, you'll at least already have the ratchet to turn it.

Unfortunately this forum is famous for "creating needs" (which my marketing profs continue to argue is technically impossible) so if you stick around long enough you will for sure "need" a set of chrome 1/2" sockets in shallow, medium and deep, from 1/4" to 2" and 6mm to 40mm. It's just a matter of time really. While you're at it, you might as well pick up the 1/2"-3/4" adapter set for when you eventually buy the big a$$ breaker bar or impact gun that the GJ will talk you into lol.
 

BDT/NWMN

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Hmmm...what’s the range of a cordless impact? AAA?

Tool setup needs to match need, align to acceptable risk, etc. I️ live by the 80/20 rule. I’m prepared for the 80% and will adapt, improvise, and overcome the other 20.

Heartbreak Ridge was an awesome movie.


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That is a good point to bring up! With the continual improvements to the power and durability of cordless tools and batteries; there has been a landslide of purchase options. This may be something the OP should/could be looking into.. It would also beat trying to use a pneumatic impact wrench with an undersized air compressor (if that be the case)

I like My DeWalt 20V Max-XR set, and have a 3/8" impact on the eBay watch list to add... A 1/2" impact will most likely follow if the 3/8" works out OK. I would be truly surprised to be disappointed.


AAA? Hope there is cellular reception. Then try and tell them where you need help. "About 2 miles west of the little town, turn left by the herd of cows, and follow the road past the pond and turn right" ;);) OK, hopefully they would have reception, and a gps and map application on their phone..:beer:
 

Ole Slewfoot

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I got a ten dollar set of no name 10-22 deep chromes and have been impacting on them for years. 19 is starting to get tired, but behind a 1000 ft lb impact it doesn't owe me anything.
 

Tonyuk

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1/2" is essential imo even for the basics. You would regret not having at least a set of deep's and a long breaker bar the moment you came across a stuck wheel bolt.
 

gdpolk

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I'm a DIY guy too and I use my 1/2" drive tools the least, but I wouldn't want to be without them. For me, I give 3/8" drive tools 80% of my use, 1/4" drive 15% of my use, and 1/2" the other 5%. When I do use 1/2" drive tools though its usually because something is stuck, heavily torqued, and/or a very large bolt/nut and I really want the strength. I have both shallow and deeps in SAE and metrics in both 6pt and 12pt only because that is what came in the huge set. If I were to build it up rail by rail, I would do the following:

Chrome:
  • 12 point, shallow and deep, SAE and Metrics
  • A long handled, flex head ratchet like the Gearwrench 120xp or similar design
  • Breaker bar

Impact:
  • 6 point shallow and deep, SAE and metric
  • a couple basic extensions
  • maybe an impact gun if you just really like using them and want it, but your breaker bar and ratchet should cover all a DIY guy needs to do
 

lilscorpion

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That is a good point to bring up! With the continual improvements to the power and durability of cordless tools and batteries; there has been a landslide of purchase options. This may be something the OP should/could be looking into.. It would also beat trying to use a pneumatic impact wrench with an undersized air compressor (if that be the case)

I like My DeWalt 20V Max-XR set, and have a 3/8" impact on the eBay watch list to add... A 1/2" impact will most likely follow if the 3/8" works out OK. I would be truly surprised to be disappointed.

AAA? Hope there is cellular reception. Then try and tell them where you need help. "About 2 miles west of the little town, turn left by the herd of cows, and follow the road past the pond and turn right" ;);) OK, hopefully they would have reception, and a gps and map application on their phone..:beer:

AAA was mostly a joke. In all of the years I've had some kind of roadside assistance I've only used it once. A pintle hitch that had fallen off a truck on the freeway and it wiped out both driver's tires on a brand new mustang which then kicked it into my lane and wiped out both of my passenger's side tires. As I heard (and felt) thump-thump, my brain flashed "one spare...". I coulda had my whole shop in my car and still be screwed. :)

Dewalt is about to release (Jan 1 2018) their 1/2-inch mid-range impact (think Milwaukee has a competing version too). Dewalt DCF894HB. Until previously, cordless impacts were either extremely expensive (Ingersoll Rand) or stupid heavy (Dewalt and many others) which made most (like me) shift back to air tools when needing to go over ~150ft/lbs (for example - off and on lugs on my truck). What's nice about this impact is it has 3 settings. 1st is daily use, 2nd is getting the lugs off the truck, 3rd is break stuff (or rusted lugs).

Back to the OP's question - I don't think you can get away without buying a ratchet if you have 1/2-inch sockets. There could easily be a situation where you can't get your impact (or whatever) into a spot that a ratchet can get into. For the additional cost, buy a mid-range length ratchet.
 

HanShotFirst

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1/2" is essential imo even for the basics. You would regret not having at least a set of deep's and a long breaker bar the moment you came across a stuck wheel bolt.
ABSOLUTELY!!!

I don’t do much work on cars anymore, mostly just motorcycles. But when I was younger and my back not jacked up, I did work on cars regularly. I can’t imagine being without a ½” set, and a LONG handle ratchet, and a very long breaker bar. ½” will just break loose things your 3/8” won’t. You’ll also save on breaking 3/8” ratchets if you use the RIGHT tool for the job.

ANY suspension work and ½” becomes your bread and butter. If you’re worried about the cost, then hit Harbor Freight. Their sockets and ratchets are damn good. If you find (what I expect you’ll find) that you’re breaking out the ½” stuff often, you can upgrade at any time, and your HF stuff becomes your backup.

I actually started with my grandfathers ½” SAE SK set that he bought probably in the 1940’s. I still have that set, and it’s still my go-to for ½”. The breaker bar got stolen, and I finally lost a ¾” socket, but the rest of the set remains intact and it’s absolutely wonderful. I replaced the breaker bar with the 25” Pitts Pro, and I bought a long handle swivel head Pitts Pro ½” ratchet that has proven invaluable. I’m passively looking or a long handle swivel in an SK that I can pick up on the cheap, but those aren’t real common on ebay.

Since ½” often finds itself connected to a breaker bar, I would recommend 12 point sockets. You can get some 6 point impact later, but in ½” I find the 12 pointers are the first I grab pretty much every time. For 3/8” & ¼” I got rid of my 12 pointers years ago because I just never reached for them. But 12 point is my bread and butter in ½” because of the frequency of using a breaker bar with ½”. And since you’re typically dealing with larger fastners, which are often times grade-8, you really don’t have to worry about rounding heads. I personally have never had that happen with a ½” 12 pointer in 30 years of working on cars (but I’m sure someone here has just such a war story).
 

sberry

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Yes clean advice, it used to be a staple a bit before all the power drives but still would consider this stuff a part of a decent tool collection. I had a helper a while back, I cant,,, I cant, well dufus reach over the 3 ft and pick a larger drive size,,, 25 minutes of fuggin around with 3/8 and 25 seconds with 1/2.
There seems to be an obsession with small drives, personally use the largest one I can vs the smallest. I got no use for a custom 1/4 ratchet with 3/8 guts etc,, I will use a 3/8 tool and I can somehow manage to get it in there. Same for suspension and brake work, all 1/2 drive, I can get on it while others seem to have trouble. Be surprise at how much changing a socket or an extension can do and have only limited use for swivels. I got them, just use them very sparingly especially with impact.
 
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sberry

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I don't even own 3/3 impact and a tool I do use is 1/2 air ratchet, I have the others too. My stuff is all over, not restricted to auto and on the heavy duty side so it makes it all so much easier fr the impacting to stay with a single drive size. I need to get some lighter bat drills for this reason, the 28 is a do it all tool but heavy for light work. Our auto work is limited and the compact 1/2 gun fits and never fails. Same gun for it all, wheels and caliper brackets etc. I really should add 1 more air gun, it would save me a little work.
It would pay back way beyond adding another whole layer with reduced drive size. Biggest asset I have in hard line tools is the duplication of the common sizes. I got some wrenches I paid 50$ for but I got 50 wrenches I paid a dollar for too. I should still get another whole set of sae. Adding 1 piece to every size would make it that much more convenient. On the stations or carts we base it on duty cycle also. I use a lot of 7/16 for **** I build some 1/2 comes on some machines and irrigation nozzles but lotso 3/8 and 1/2, 5/8 and some mix of sizes in between and some 3/4. But probably 1/2 our fastener is 9/16 wrench, maybe 40%, a lot of it is from customization. Clamps we have by the hundreds.
I got a dozen ways to get on a 9/16 all within rather short reach, stuff gets moved around but we got 3 or 4 of some of the sizes in impacts, if we got to look for a minute to get something right its not a big deal. I rip a clutch out of a backhoe and it has a way of lopsiding the shop a little it seems, easy to carry another socket or 2 to it.
I should have another 18 combination wrench and another 1 1/16 I have 1 or 2 of.
 

sberry

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I only use a Stanley retractable knife, I am not super fussy about the model, the standard is just fine. Ace and some others are fine too, just use the blades made for them. I use all one brand, buy 3 or 4 a year and need a couple new ones now. Same for tape measures, it needs to be good enough I can pick it up for a days work but doesn't need to be an ultimate model I need to track.
The 30 or so 9/16 I have have a lot of variation, I hang them in 3 spots on pegs , if the pegs don't have room it means they must have come from elsewhere. They float between stations and they been around so long got little personalities of their own and offer the opportunity to take from this pool as needed without having to take expensive tools, can leave some where needed or in other equipment as needed without having to rob the place. I can do so much with a simple combo wrench, we can take extras for particular work por even run several jobs without shorting hand tools, aint got to remember all this stuff if there is a knife in a truck we use regular. I got about 6 pairs of 440 Cloks I use regular. There might be a better tool but I know what to expect from them, the predictable convenience is worth all that.
 

BK13

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My thought is if you need to ask somone if you need somthing then you likely dont need it

I kinda have to agree with this.

But, from the 'do as I say, not as I do' department, I'm looking to add some 6 point 1/2" drive chromes to my box, because, you know, I haven't touched any of my chrome 12 point 1/2" sockets except the 13/16" I use for torquing my Expedition's and CJ's lug nuts since I bought the M18 impact wrenches....

LOL
 
OP
8

8200rpm

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you need 1/2 drive tools to work on cars.

I guess my title could have been misleading. I have 1/2 drive in the form of impact sockets (11-32mm), impact wrench, 25" breaker bar and 1/2 torque wrench. The need for 1/2 seems to be mostly disassembly work on stubborn parts or final torque after reassembly.

The more specific question buried in the body of the original post was whether I "need" a dedicated 1/2" ratchet and chrome sockets especially when I have most common sizes covered by my 3/8 set for reassembly work.

Well, I went ahead and ordered a Tekton 1/2" ratchet and an 8-pc set of chrome deep 6-pt sockets (13-22mm). It's a $40 purchase to get me started just in case I run into tight spaces where the impact wrench or breaker bar won't fit. As another poster said, better to have it and not need it than be stuck half way into a project and be without it. This plus the impact set should cover >90% of my 1/2" needs, and I could add as I need to.
 

buffalobill

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That sounds good, keep your eyes peeled for good ebay auctions too, or the classefieds on here. It's good to have a reasonably full set of everything in each drive size, you never know when you might need another option, only to not have that particular combination to try out.
 
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