Does sheetrock damage hole saws blades
- Thread starter branimal
- Start date
HF hole saws are what I use but drill the center hole with a separate drill bit as the one in the hole saw kit is ****.
Run the hole saw in reverse 1st, to score the paper, and keep the saw from jumping around upon initial contact when you switch the drill to forward.
The plug out of the hole saw is the perfect size for patching the hole too, if the hole is just for access.
Feather off the torn edges of the hole and plug before mudding them back together.
sorry for the long answer,
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sberry
Banned
Drywall doesn't hurt them but old lathe and plaster is super hard and will dull them fast.
Parrothead
Well-known member
Buy the HF kit as it does dull the blades. I have a HF kit for just that reason, holes in drywall. They’re too cheap not to have them specifically for drywall.
rlitman
Well-known member
Plaster will ruin a bit quickly. Drywall will dull bits more quickly than wood, but you can cut quite a bit of it before the bit is no longer serviceable (by then, it will hardly have distinguishable teeth left).
However, if you're dedicating the hole saws to drywall use, you can touch them up with a triangle file and they'll last forever. They don't need to be all that sharp.
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AJ.
Well-known member
Just sharpen them when you are done. Here is how to do it https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325636
Cheers Andrew
Cheers Andrew
Parrothead
Well-known member
Yep!!!
That where the HF blades shine. I’ve had mine for going on 10+ years for drywall only. They’re cost effective even if you them often. +1 on the triangle file.
This!
I had dedicated hole saws for remodel recessed light cans. I didn't even realize they were dull until I went to put a light above a sink that was trimmed out in wood (between two cabinets). The blade struggled and I figured it was me, I tried getting my body in a better position - still had issues. It was then that I looked at the saw and chuckled to myself. I'd worn the thing out pretty well. You'd never be able to tell when popping holes into the ceiling.
rlitman
Well-known member
Yeah, on drywall, they just have to have something that resembles a tooth. Many people recommend starting backwards to cut the paper, because too sharp a tooth will dig in. For a sawzall, I've had good luck with a special drywall blade that had teeth that looked like equilateral triangles. Even a steak knife is overkill on the sharpness. It just has to kind of poke into the gypsum and remove some. Of course, a tooth that dull will just drag and burn on wood.
That angle grinder method for retoothing holesaws will get you cutting in wood or metal without burning.
RAS61
Well-known member
Ray-CA
Well-known member
DAMN RIGHT IT DOES!!!!
Had to put 4, 4-inch holes in the ceiling to install some lamps. Got 2-holes per blade (bit?) and we used Milwaukee saws. 5/8ths plaster with metal lath and 1/2" drywall type material behind that.
Ray
sberry
Banned
I should have said, doesn't hurt much. I have some I used a fair amount, they are ok. The fact a guy is cutting "plaster" over mesh along with drywall doesn't surprise me that they dull quicker. I can see hardened wire really tearing them up.
Wouldn't be past me to buy a separate kit if I thought it would pay. I know they can be sharpened but in a way they may be a consumable too. I replaced a few where I really abused them bad. I broke one a while back cutting thru a thin aluminum tubing of all things, ripped some teeth right off of it.
Wouldn't be past me to buy a separate kit if I thought it would pay. I know they can be sharpened but in a way they may be a consumable too. I replaced a few where I really abused them bad. I broke one a while back cutting thru a thin aluminum tubing of all things, ripped some teeth right off of it.
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Parrothead
Well-known member
One other tip...spray paint the backs of the "drywall only" blades so you don't forget that's all they're used for.
I do this with drill bits too. I have a cheap HF long drill bit that I use to put fiberglass poles in the ground after it's frozen. Dull as can be but suits that job just great. However, I'd hate to use it for anything other than dirt. Now there's something that dulls blades/bits quickly.
I do this with drill bits too. I have a cheap HF long drill bit that I use to put fiberglass poles in the ground after it's frozen. Dull as can be but suits that job just great. However, I'd hate to use it for anything other than dirt. Now there's something that dulls blades/bits quickly.
Parrothead
Well-known member
https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-5-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-18-pc-68115.html
For under $14 after coupon...why wouldn't you use these as dedicated drywall cutters?
For under $14 after coupon...why wouldn't you use these as dedicated drywall cutters?
Milton Shaw
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2011
- Messages
- 4,836
For some of those drilling hoes in ceiling. IF the house has ceiling heat installed be careful, In my house its 1/2 drywall with heat wire, then 1/2" cement and then plaster on it. And it ruins regular hole saws. I bought the carbide grit type for my 6" holes for can lights. Also the ceiling heat has been disconnected completely for years. Wires from thermostats removed and circuit removed from breaker box. I bought a Rubber-made plastic cake keeper and cut a hole for hole saw extension shaft and then glued a fitting for my shop vac to **** up the dust from drilling. The house also had blow in insulation above the ceiling and mineral insulation too. Shop vac made a big difference and having the wire hold the vac extension helped keep the mess on the second and third room I put lights in.
MANelson85
Active member
Run the holesaw in reverse.
I have never had a problem with Sheetrock damaging or dulling a blade or bit. It will coat it with rock residue and you will need to clean it off ocasionally. With that said plaster and different backer boards is a different subject and yes they will dull a whole saw fairly quick. But honestly I almost never use a hole saw in sheet rock since I bought the Milwaukee adjustable whole cutter. 2in - 7in hole with the same simple tool saves me time and space. Best $25 I have spend in a while.