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Does this look safe/correct?

RVA-Jeff

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Richmond, VA
Built a jumper to go from Honda eu7000is generator to Miller 211 (240v mode). Does this look OK and safe?
 

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Norcal

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Mar 16, 2008
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A 4 sq box on a cord will always get a citation from OSHA as it's not permitted but as long as the box is not dropped and the grounding conductor has been bonded to the box,(the device does not count as bonding it) it will work. Arrow-Hart used to have a proper connector but think it was discontinued.
 

rq375

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Kennewick, WA
I built an extension like that years ago, and recently discovered the need to tack weld all of the knock-outs in place...
 

mike93lx

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I think i would have bought a premade extension and just swapped the generator end. It would eliminate the 4sq box
 

mm08822

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I use bonding locknuts on the strain relief instead of regular locknuts as they will loosen over time from banging around - has nothing to do with bonding, just using the screw as a jam screw.

I also use serrated washers under all box screws for same reason.

I like the idea of tack welds.
 

teamextreme

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Lakewood, CO
I would definitely second the deeper box and grounding the box suggestions. Not sure how you even stuffed that recep into that shallow box without pinching conductors.
 

sberry

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Those recepts need a deep box, I stock a few nuts for that reason and now for new gfci, they made some of those deeper now too just for your wiring pleasure.
 
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American Locomotive

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I've built dozens of boxes like that. As long as you're not using them in a rough factory environment, it's pretty much fine. Make sure you ground the box, and as mentioned, maybe yours could be a bit deeper, depends on how tight the wires are.
 

theoldwizard1

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Need to bond the box to ground.

I wouldve used a 6-30r plug instead of a 4 sq box.

Except that the welder probably has a 6-50 plug (I know it was likely a typo) !

6-50R for cords are hard to find and ridiculously priced. Possibly a surface mount 6-50R, but it would be not a "robust" as a metal housing and a real "pendant" housing is also ridiculously priced.

If the OP wants to weld the knockouts, he should know that welding galvanized metal makes poisonous fume.
 

sberry

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I do understand why its not OSHA compliant, would allow a makeshift scheme at every turn. But when I have used these on cords have fabbed some foam around them and taped it on with black. Same for a surface mount when using them this way, I don't have a current pic of one, it can be neat with a little effort.
 

Lassen Forge

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We made something like that to tie in 2 Honda EU2000's and have a 4 U-Ground outlet in a J-Box - as long as BOTH male plugs are plugged in it was fine, but as soon as one came out, you have a HOT male plug sitting there waiting for something to short it out or someone to grab it...
 

dogdog

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I would get something like a NEMA 6-50R molded plug on the other end... I did something similar for my miller dynasty, a 120/240 capable machine... Used L14-30 as it's standard plug then used L14-30P to 120V plug pigtail when I needed to used 120V for it....


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJJ0YHO/?tag=atomicindus08-20


61NyRcSS6AL._SL1000_.jpg
 
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OP
R

RVA-Jeff

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Feb 29, 2012
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144
Location
Richmond, VA
Thank you all. I will look for a deeper box although this one isn't pinching.

To ground the box, do I run another ~6" green wire from back of receptacle ground log to box perhaps using the bonding lock nut mentioned?

Wire is 10AWG btw.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Modesto, CA
Except that the welder probably has a 6-50 plug (I know it was likely a typo) !

6-50R for cords are hard to find and ridiculously priced. Possibly a surface mount 6-50R, but it would be not a "robust" as a metal housing and a real "pendant" housing is also ridiculously priced.

If the OP wants to weld the knockouts, he should know that welding galvanized metal makes poisonous fume.

Yeah i looked at one of the plugs which says 14-30 and then transposed that to 6-30r.

Now that i look at the 240v outlet he has, i see its labeled 6-50
 

Norcal

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13,752
I would get something like a NEMA 6-50R molded plug on the other end... I did something similar for my miller dynasty, a 120/240 capable machine... Used L14-30 as it's standard plug then used L14-30P to 120V plug pigtail when I needed to used 120V for it....


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJJ0YHO/?tag=atomicindus08-20


61NyRcSS6AL._SL1000_.jpg

That is a very good choice when making up a welder cord, no jury rigged solutions then.
 
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