I am done with jackstands. Ideally I would like to have a lift. That might be a ways away. Is there any other sort of system that I can use that will give me more and better access to my car's under-body and get me more leverage if I need to use a breaker bar?
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How tall are they? can you post pics?
I don't know if mine gives two feet of clearance or not but when I need to do a trans swap or brake lines or something like that I use my 6 ton stands. They get the car up plenty high enough and as long as you're on flat concrete they give plenty of support for you to wiggle and pull hard on things.
I think if you need more room you are going to have to open up the wallet and look into something like max jax.
dis b wachoo need

And, every single cement block in that Jenga game is sitting in it's weakest orientation, too.
It does look like it would be a fun party game though.![]()
I was just about to say the same thing, but then I figured he probably did it that way on purpose so he could have more "shelving" for his tools while working under the vehicle, and so that all the neighbors could see through the block holes, watch him work, and marvel at his intelligence and ingenuity. Maybe it was a very hot day and he wanted to make sure there was plenty of fresh breeze under the vehicle to keep him cool. Also, how much of a hassle would it have been if they were all stacked with the cells vertical (like they should be) and he accidentally dropped a bolt down one of the holes?

Cribs work well. My grandfather (whom I never knew) was a rigger in Cleveland in the late 30s-40s, and my dad worked with him for a few years before he became a teacher. I learned early in life the value of keeping a bunch of 4x4s and 2x4s around the house.
Here's my grandfather working in northeastern Ohio in the early 1940s. Imagine the weight that cribbing is holding.
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My buddy has a set of the 12t HF's for doing chassis swaps without my lift. They work great and are very stable, like all jackstands.Harbor freight & Northern tools sells 12 tons that go to about 30 inches of lift.
That's what I have to use on my 40 if I want to keep the tires off the ground safely when working.
~$70.

I've done the wood cribs too. My son and I put a new engine in a 98 Camaro and these made it safe without a real lift. They are a lot more stable than jackstands.
After the camaro project was over, I put wheels on them for my 59 Austin-Healey restoration. The caster wheels are great for long term projects.
Definitely a good approach. I have a lift at a shop space two of my friends and I rent, and a number of our friends hit us up to use the lift from time to time. It works out well for everyone, being its not in use every weekend. I haven't used jackstands for a while!Nobody's suggested what I did.
Make friends with a mechanic. Make sure it's the right guy.
After the car dealer he works for pisses him off enough, he opens his own shop.
Use his hoist.
I sure don't miss crawling around on my back under the car.
I did you construct these? Nails screws, glue? How many 2 x 4's did you use?
4" deck screws. no glue, may want to change height in the future.
I don't remember how many boards - was about $75 in materials for the 4 "cribs". 7 courses tall was about as high as my jack would go.
Try thesehttp://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Heat+Guns+%26+Accessories%2FRamps%2FCabinets+Heavy+Duty+Truck+Service+Ramps+-+Stamped+Steel+-+Total+Ramp+Size%3A+35+%22+long+x+13+%22+wide__10151_-1_10651_198608_36823?acesApp=0
I drive up front then jack up rear and put second set under rear. It's not the best but it's better then jack stands IMO.
If I have to work on one wheel I support that area with jack stands and remove one ramp. Just think its more stable
I use these for rolling chassis only. great for doing brake lines and detail stuff on new builds.
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