Mr.Nutcase
Well-known member
use solder?
Don't Crimp My Style!
- Thread starter Merkava_4
- Start date
tonydanzah
Well-known member
^ Non-insulated **** splice connecter awaiting wire insertion. The seam is in the ditch.
^ Splice connection after being crimped - top side.
^ Splice connection after being crimped - back side.
^ We're sliding the heat shrink tubing on.
^ Heat shrink has now been shrunk.
WHY WOULD YOU USE THIS, JUST SOLDER THE CONNECTION!
^ Splice connection after being crimped - top side.
^ Splice connection after being crimped - back side.
^ We're sliding the heat shrink tubing on.
^ Heat shrink has now been shrunk.
WHY WOULD YOU USE THIS, JUST SOLDER THE CONNECTION!
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Now i want to buy crimping tools and make wiring..
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
the heat from soldering plus the solder joint itself make the connection brittle. vibrations could cause the joint to break. that connection will last, it's secure and water tight.
mkdive
Well-known member
I have a whole drawer just for crimping pliers, terminals, connectors & shrink tubing. Although I will say, I still solder a majority of connections. Just depends on the type of project.
mkdive
Well-known member
Lots of connections I make, crimp style connectors just wont work. (I wish they would...would be a big time saver). In my case there just is not enough space for the connector itself...but I'm talking more of small electronics than automotive 12V type wiring.
I agree if a person isn't skilled at soldering, then they can do more harm than good when it comes to the wires and the joint itself.
tonydanzah
Well-known member
i disagree. After working on electric forklifts for years that have no suspension and lots of vibration these fail. A soldered connection done right with a low heat butane soldering iron is permanent.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
i have had exactly opposite on motorcycles. either way is better than a ****-splice
edit: when i worked for ford they came out with a non-insulated splice kit and stopped recommending soldering joints ( they used to supply solder in harness kits). due to the brittleness issue.
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tonydanzah
Well-known member
i have had exactly opposite on motorcycles. either way is better than a ****-splice
hell yeah or people who use wire nuts and scotch locks
wellstig1
Well-known member
I have that same set and they work great for me
wellstig1
Well-known member
Kind of off topic but this is some sweet wiring some genius at my work did on a cam sensor. Customer found it and he was not happy. The kicker is that the guy didn't even get in troubler for it!
<a href="http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c308/wellstig1/?action=view¤t=gerg3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c308/wellstig1/gerg3.jpg" border="0" alt="Turd"></a>
<a href="http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c308/wellstig1/?action=view¤t=gerg3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c308/wellstig1/gerg3.jpg" border="0" alt="Turd"></a>
tonydanzah
Well-known member
wow that is pretty aweful, not surprised to see it. more suprised the tech didnt get in trouble
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
Whoa, that pushes th boundaries a bit. I've had to cut and splice looms before (mostly ABS sensor wiring) but that takes the piss.
I was doing better than that when I was 10 years old learning how to build radios' for my amateur radio hobby! Sad..
wellstig1
Well-known member
It gets better though, on that same truck he also dropped an injector hold down bolt into the intake and went ahead and started it. Destroyed a piston and dinged the head up pretty bad. The punishment... 1 day off!!! Lets just say I'm a little sickened at the performance of most of the "mechanics" in the shop I work at as well as the lack of discipline and accountability. I have to stop, I could write a novel of the stuff that goes on at the dealer I work at and I have neither the time and this is not the right thread for it.
Mickey O
Well-known member
Long as he taped up the connections that looks fine.
wreckercologist
Well-known member
I find this same kind of **** all day long when I'm working on a used wrecker, carrier or trailer. The best ones are when you find a bad connection that has two wires twisted together and then covered in RVT sealant.
It's kind of funny how the people who do that also complain the most about our labor rate ($92.95 hr.). The more thay complain, the more I find, the slower I go, the more they pay.
Back from the dead
Im looking for a set of ratcheting crimpers and the bluepoint set looks like a decent deal.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...p_ID=683215&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog#Li
Opinions?
Im looking for a set of ratcheting crimpers and the bluepoint set looks like a decent deal.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...p_ID=683215&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog#Li
Opinions?
tbgallant
Well-known member
Timely for me, looking for a good (great!) ratcheting crimping too for non-insulated connectors. Mostly 18g and 14g, some 12g.
Any place to find a better deal on the Snap-On? I can't seem to find any information to state that it has dies for doing non-insulated 'barrel' crimps?
Also looking at these at Del City;
http://www.delcity.net/store/Ratchet!style-Crimping-Tools/p_10382.a_1
Can't seem to find one on there that does non-insulated crimps though??
Any place to find a better deal on the Snap-On? I can't seem to find any information to state that it has dies for doing non-insulated 'barrel' crimps?
Also looking at these at Del City;
http://www.delcity.net/store/Ratchet!style-Crimping-Tools/p_10382.a_1
Can't seem to find one on there that does non-insulated crimps though??
What do you guys think about these type pliers for making crimps around the house and on older cars? Decent enough, or total rubish?
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1319
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1299&groupID=1319
steveo3002
Well-known member
Fancy version of the cheap stamped crimper most have, much higher quality, no real difference in results.
HAP
Well-known member
Merkava,
Nice illustrations. However, the upset or impression should be made on the "seam" side of the barrel.
R,
HAP
Nice illustrations. However, the upset or impression should be made on the "seam" side of the barrel.
R,
HAP
HAP
Well-known member
This got my attention - was it possible that the indent should be on the brazed seam (somewhat parallel to the open barrel crimp)? Had I been doing it wrong for years? Um, no. From the 3M literature:
Much different than military aviation electrical wiring practices... Thanks for sharing.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
This got my attention - was it possible that the indent should be on the brazed seam (somewhat parallel to the open barrel crimp)? Had I been doing it wrong for years? Um, no. From the 3M literature:
Well, I guess I have been doing wrong for many, many years, (indent on top of the seam) although my cheap crimpers do NOT allow the barrel to flare out like the image in the bottom right.
I greatly prefer uninsulated crimps and heat shrink or insulated crimps with builtin heat shrink. They look so much neater. Plus if you use the double layer (marine) heat shrink they are pretty much waterproof.
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