Don't Crimp My Style!

[Merkava_4]

^ Insulated ring terminal size 14-16.

^ Non-insulated ring terminal size 14-16.

^ Open-Barrel spade terminal size 14-16.

^ Insulated ring terminal after being crimped.

^ Non-insulted ring terminal in position awaiting wire insertion. Notice the seam is in the ditch.

^ Flip the pliers over and this is what you see.

^ Looking at it from the back side.

^ Insulated ring terminal after being crimped.

^ Top side of non-insulated ring terminal after being crimped.

^ Back side of non-insulated ring terminal after being crimped.

^ Non-insulated **** splice connecter awaiting wire insertion. The seam is in the ditch.

^ Splice connection after being crimped - top side.

^ Splice connection after being crimped - back side.

^ We're sliding the heat shrink tubing on.

^ Heat shrink has now been shrunk.

^ We're closing in using section E.

^ We slide over to the flat section and complete the crimp.

^ Here we're getting ready to crimp the insulation grip using section A.

^ Here the insulation grip has been crimped.

^ Open barrel spade terminal after being crimped.

 

[chammyman]

what are these wires for? Demonstration purposes only?

Good crimping anyway, what tool are you using? I still use my combinded strippers and crimpers, not as perfect as yours but they do the job out in the field.

 

[Merkava_4]

what are these wires for? Demonstration purposes only?

I made this thread for Treeman. I told him I was going to start a new thread rather than load all these pictures into his thread.

 

[Merkava_4]

^ Ideal 30-429

^ SARGENT 1028CP.

 

[89MustangGX]

I'm always looking for a nice "home" crimper -- what tool is this?

Nice crimps btw.

Adam

EDIT: I see now -- nice and simple. I like that.

 

[Merkava_4]

I like the way the Ideal crimps make my knuckles pop when I squeeze down.

 

[billymade]

I've been trying to find the SARGENT tools; turns out they are a line of the Rostra Tool Company:

http://www.rostratool.com/default.asp

1028CP is listed here: http://www.rostratool.com/catfamily...trical&cat2ID=8&cat2Name=Open Barrel Contacts

Here is one place that has the 1028CP for $25 : http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=37

and Ideal Industries is here:

http://www.idealindustries.com/

Ideal Multi-Crimp Tool Catalog # 30-429
is listed here: http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=30-429&div=3&l1=crimp_tools&l2=multi-crimp_tool

Looks like the ideal crimping pliers are in the $40-$50 range...
To buy: http://www.google.com/products?clie...g # 30-429&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&um=1&sa=N&tab=wf

 

[billymade]

Merk, what is your asessment of the SARGENT 1028CP and the Ideal crimper; I don't have anything like the 1028CP and always wanted to be able to do the "open barrel" connectors but I do have a Bluepoint Pliers, 29CP. I am assuming the Bluepoints will do what the Ideals will but for $25 the 1028CP might fit the bill.... what is the quality, do you recommend it or are there higher quality crimpers for open barrel connectors out there?

Bluepoint Terminal Crimping / Cutter, 9 3/8"
Stock#: 29CP $56.95
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...1&group_ID=797&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I guess we have discussed many of these issues in the past here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21761

 

[zuspiel]

Very informative! Thanks.

 

[Treeman]

Great pictures Merkava. Thanks. Regarding tools, you ARE the master of your domain.

Billymade, your last link is to a discussion of strippers, not crimpers.

Since tool choice is being discussed.....Merkava, do you feel the Ideals are better than the Kleins (the "Kleenex brand" tool of choice) or the Channel locks? Anyone compare performance? The Ideals look awesome.

IMPORTANT ? Multi-tools have different sized openings for the three sizes of connectors. How do these pliar types cover all sizes with only one opening? Pros/cons.

 

[Merkava_4]

Merk, what is your asessment of the SARGENT 1028CP and the Ideal crimper;

On a scale of 1-10, I'd rate them both a 10.

The joints on the Ideal's are so tight that they will hold the connector in the jaw without applying pressure to the handles; but they still move very smoothly. I couldn't ask for anything more from them; they're a real pleasure to use.

The SARGENT's are equally precise with tight joints also, but they still move freely; they're pretty dang sweet.

 

[KenS]

Excellent presentation made with clarity. Please keep these kinds of tutorials coming.

 

[G-force]

Thanks for the review.

A little research yielded me with my new crimpers...

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Ideal-Multi-Crimp-Tool-Pliers-Wire-Cutter-Crimping_W0QQitemZ130262784275QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Ideal Multi Crimp Tool: *buy it now* $7

 

[Tool Pants]

I wish I could take pictures that good.

Those look like good and tight crimps. I have crimpers like in your pictures. Problem is I do not have the hand force to squeeze the handles together tight enough, so that I cannot pull the wire out of the terminal after the crimp is made.

In a factory situation a press is used to make the crimp.

In the old days I would put the handles in a vise and sometimes I also even soldered them.

Then years ago I bought a Taiwan ratching crimper with a set of dies, because I did not want to pay Ideal prices. I like my Taiwan crimper.

 

[Merkava_4]

Problem is I do not have the hand force to squeeze the handles together tight enough, so that I cannot pull the wire out of the terminal after the crimp is made.

The handles are long and give you a lot of leverage; I love squeezing them; I just squeeze until I can't squeeze anymore and the crimp is will not allow you to pull the wire out without breaking the wire.

 

[G-force]

The handles are long and give you a lot of leverage; I love squeezing them; I just squeeze until I can't squeeze anymore and the crimp is will not allow you to pull the wire out without breaking the wire.

I bought one of those $12 multi crimp tools that the auto parts stores sell a few years back. Like this:

It has always done a good job of getting good solid crimps that wont pull out, the problem was always the fact that it was difficult to work with and position properly. It has too many so-called functions for it's own good.

The Ideals are a nice simple design with out all the things I would never use.

 

[a390st]

This must be one of the dorkiest threads in GJ history. I can't believe I actually looked at those pictures. Wow.

I have always used the Klein crimpers, and have never had a minute of trouble out of them.
You just can't go wrong with Klein. You might find something as good if you look for a while, but if you are just wanting to get something quickly, their electric related tools are your best bet.

 

[Stuey]

OMG!! Merkava actually uses his tools!!

Now that that's out of the way, nice photos, good idea, great tutorial!

 

[paramudduck]

Stuey I bet he bought a set to do it with. "HIS" pair is nicely polished in the silk wrap in the drawer.

Man I had to do that! Very nice and clear presentation. You dood good Merk.

 

[krusty the clown]

klein, t&b, and ideal look identical......possibly rebranded by all of them? anyway i have 2 t&b and 1 klein passed down from my father, they are all good.

 

[Jay H 237]

Then years ago I bought a Taiwan ratching crimper with a set of dies, because I did not want to pay Ideal prices. I like my Taiwan crimper.

You should see the cost of some of the crimpers I have at work for robots and other automation. We use many different Tyco/Amp and barrel crimpers (DMC). A few of them are $400 or so once you factor in the handles and dies or turrets. The prices are similar between Digi-key, Newark and Mouser. Of course these are all specialty crimpers that the average person would never need.

 

[ImportTuner]

I have a similar crimper that is over 30 years old. Made in USA by the Thomas & Betts Co., Elizabeth, NJ .. still use it quite often

 

[Merkava_4]

This must be one of the dorkiest threads in GJ history. I can't believe I actually looked at those pictures. Wow.

... ...

 

[MAD]

Excellent pictures!

I often teach people at work how to make proper crimps but still find my assistants using the wrong crimping tool for the terminal they are using. I may have to post those photos in my shop.

 

[vssjim]

I do like my T&B crimpers they really make a tight crimp.

 

[terabyte]

i like these too

http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/909__THE_CRIMPER_trade___Crimping_Tool_P90C17.cfm

 

[dirty old man]

Nice write up I wish you would have made this before my trial and error crimping.

 

[wilbilt]

Very nice photos, Merkava.

Thanks!

 

[speed bump]

klein, t&b, and ideal look identical......possibly rebranded by all of them? anyway i have 2 t&b and 1 klein passed down from my father, they are all good.

The Ideals have a different handle style than the Kleins and the T&Bs and dont seem nearly as nice. The T&Bs and Kleins are pretty close to the same design though and seem very close to functionally identical.

I will say that Thomas and Betts make the best connectors though.

 

[a390st]

Quote:
Originally Posted by a390st
This must be one of the dorkiest threads in GJ history. I can't believe I actually looked at those pictures. Wow.

... ...

Hey man, I'm not running you down. The pictures are great. Just stand back and look at it from an outside view, though. Grown men salivating over pictures of some unseen person crimping things from multiple angles... Now, if the pictures of the crimping activities included a beautiful and scantily clad young woman, that would be fit for a real garage.

Keep it up, you know I'm on your side. Have you forgot ni[x]it?

 

[swgray]

Yes, nice pictures. Today is the first I've seen this thread.

The problem I have is the crimps on the open barrel connectors were done incorrectly. If that was a 14-16 connector it should have been crimped in the "C" cavity and the insulation crimp would be done in the "A" cavity. Nothing needs to be squeezed by the "flat" section.

Personally, I prefer ratcheting crimpers. Although the pliers type are sometimes needed for close quarters work.

 

[Merkava_4]

The problem I have is the crimps on the open barrel connectors were done incorrectly. If that was a 14-16 connector it should have been crimped in the "C" cavity and the insulation crimp would be done in the "A" cavity. Nothing needs to be squeezed by the "flat" section.

I used the "A" cavity for the insulation crimp like you said, but I forgot the reason why I didn't use the "C" cavity for the wire crimp. I'll go get the crimpers and some wire out today and see what's going on. I'll report back later.

 

[mkdive]

great thread.

 

[autoace]

I like this thread, it shows Merk. can use tools, when he wants to. LOL

 

[bry@n]

Nice pics and I learned something. I learned that I have been crimping wrong. lol No suprise there.

Thanks.

 

[66HertzClone]

At least now I know I've finally learned the correct way to crimp. I purchased the Toptul kit, but other than a couple of test crimps haven't used it yet.

Call me nuts, but I solder every crimp too, use my Weller soldering station and some small gauge electronic solder on all of the non insulated connections I make. I use the heat shrink with the sealant inside to seal the connections.

 

[eborcim]

nice job good pics

 

[Mickey O]

You should see the cost of some of the crimpers I have at work for robots and other automation. We use many different Tyco/Amp and barrel crimpers (DMC). A few of them are $400 or so once you factor in the handles and dies or turrets. The prices are similar between Digi-key, Newark and Mouser. Of course these are all specialty crimpers that the average person would never need.

 

[MD11]

Brilliant instructions Merkava.. Also let me strongly recommend to anyone looking for a high quality crimper or stripper these two Knipex models.. Both have attachments allowing the entire gamout of wires and crimps. I use these extensively with my amateur radio hobby.

 

[Rocket1]

I wish I could take pictures that good.

Those look like good and tight crimps. I have crimpers like in your pictures. Problem is I do not have the hand force to squeeze the handles together tight enough, so that I cannot pull the wire out of the terminal after the crimp is made.

In a factory situation a press is used to make the crimp.

In the old days I would put the handles in a vise and sometimes I also even soldered them.

Then years ago I bought a Taiwan ratching crimper with a set of dies, because I did not want to pay Ideal prices. I like my Taiwan crimper.

I have a similar crimper I got off eBay... I use it more than I thought and I like I can Chang the dies for what I'm working on. I originally bought it because I could do custom spark plug wires with one of the dies.