Door sill bracing

[Sumboodie]

Got home last night from work and someone bent the door sill on my fairly new door. Haven't even had time to paint it yet.

Going to try and fix it, how can this be changed so it's supported?

The building is 2x6 and then 2x4 purlins, so the wall face overhangs the slab.

We put a PT 2x6, but the door sill isn't fully supported still.

 

[CraigStu]

I take it that the brown under the door is the slab? I'd get a treated piece of whatever thickness fits under the sill and attach it w/ Tapcon screws. I use their 5/16 screws and their drill bit w/ a hammer drill. If your piece of PT is a little thicker than needed I'd just leave it that way. 1/4 or 3/8 of wood beyond the sill will be fine. You could add some construction adhesive too if you like.

 

[nmk_61802]

Form up and poor a small concrete stoop.

 

[Sumboodie]

I take it that the brown under the door is the slab? I'd get a treated piece of whatever thickness fits under the sill and attach it w/ Tapcon screws. I use their 5/16 screws and their drill bit w/ a hammer drill. If your piece of PT is a little thicker than needed I'd just leave it that way. 1/4 or 3/8 of wood beyond the sill will be fine. You could add some construction adhesive too if you like.

Brown is the PT 2x6

 

[Sumboodie]

Form up and poor a small concrete stoop.

Eventually. 30ftx30ft or so.

 

[Sumboodie]

Apparently a hammer was dropped and did that. Allegedly.

 

[loganb]

Talk to the supplier, that appears to be replaceable. With the jambs sitting on the slab and the sill between them, cutting a couple fasteners that may be going horizontally into that sill and removing any anchors into slab will allow it to be removed from inside. Slide new one in, add anchors into slab along with liberal application of sealant

 

[Sumboodie]

Talk to the supplier, that appears to be replaceable. With the jambs sitting on the slab and the sill between them, cutting a couple fasteners that may be going horizontally into that sill and removing any anchors into slab will allow it to be removed from inside. Slide new one in, add anchors into slab along with liberal application of sealant

The 2x6 is glued on. The guy that installed it didn't want to chance hitting pex, even though I told him nothing was within a foot of the edge.

 

[timewarp]

The 2x6 is glued on. The guy that installed it didn't want to chance hitting pex, even though I told him nothing was within a foot of the edge.

just realized this was a 6 month old post, nevermind!

 

[Old Moparz]

Put something between the sill & the pressure treated wood if that is aluminum, it will corrode it.

 

[Sumboodie]

Put something between the sill & the pressure treated wood if that is aluminum, it will corrode it.

Never heard that before. If that's true, takes longer than 30 years.

 

[Old Moparz]

Never heard that before. If that's true, takes longer than 30

Pressure Treated Wood and Aluminum

You may like the look of pressure-treated wood but you should think ahead before you use it.

www.buchnermfg.com

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I bend aluminum for exterior windows, doors, posts and beams. Yes, pressure treated wood and aluminum don't get along. Takes less than a year for holes to appear. Now I wrap tyvek or similar around posts before cladding, and use stainless screws or nails.

 

[rayra]

The 2x6 is glued on. The guy that installed it didn't want to chance hitting pex, even though I told him nothing was within a foot of the edge.

lolz, shouldn't be anything running anywhere near an entry door.

Dent isn't repairable, but a bit of careful work with a narrow piece of molding jammed up against the underside - spanning a wide spread both sides of the dent - and striking upwards with the side of a 3# maul might straighten it some without making things worse.

And you can use a similar full width piece of baseboard molding shoved against that overhanging lip to fully support it, screwing thru the molding into the 2x6, For the long time before you get a slab in front of it.

btw, whoever put that PT boards as your sill, in contact with dirt, is a fool. Even rated for ground contact, it's a terrible idea.

And yeah, something dense and hard was dropped on it. Doesn't bend like that from stepping on it.

 

[larry4406]

Unfortunately that happens to me at the day job.

We have a "fixit" conctractor that repairs damn near everything - chipped tubs, scratched stainless steel appliances, cracked/dented vinyl windows, etc.

One of their specialties is installing a permanent metal overlay on top of the damaged sill. Their overlays are similar to these

Door Sill Overlay

Dents and damage to door sills no longer require complete door replacement. Whether you have a single door with wide jams, header and sill or a door with sidelights or fixed panels - Surface...

www.surfacespecialistsmetro.com

To replace the damaged sill, you are jerking the door and frame, and basically redoing the frame.

Find an overlay.

 

[Sumboodie]

lolz, shouldn't be anything running anywhere near an entry door.

Dent isn't repairable, but a bit of careful work with a narrow piece of molding jammed up against the underside - spanning a wide spread both sides of the dent - and striking upwards with the side of a 3# maul might straighten it some without making things worse.

And you can use a similar full width piece of baseboard molding shoved against that overhanging lip to fully support it, screwing thru the molding into the 2x6, For the long time before you get a slab in front of it.

btw, whoever put that PT boards as your sill, in contact with dirt, is a fool. Even rated for ground contact, it's a terrible idea.

And yeah, something dense and hard was dropped on it. Doesn't bend like that from stepping on it.

Dent was fixed 6+ months ago.

 

[i4ni]

Support it with a piece of aluminum C channel or a piece of angle screwed in below it you can get at any box store in their metal assortment selection area. Whatever matches the unsupported dimension. You could use treated wood as well.