Double Barn Door design Ideas

[Gttrucker]

We recently acquired a property with a garage that desperately needs new doors. (I don't have pics at the moment, but I'll try to get some).

The house has an 800 square foot detached garage/shop. I believe the building was constructed in the 40's give or take a few years. The structure solid 8x8 upright beams with 6x8 cross beams, and a 12 foot ceiling. It's beautiful to see The outside is sided in red stained 1/2 x 10 redwood planks with brown stained 1x2 vertically trimming over the siding seams. The interior is divided into 3 rooms. One half is a garage, the other half is 2/3 an empty room, and 1/3 was a small workshop. The interior walls have been added and I might remove them and open it up into a single large shop.

It has a recent lifetime roof, 60 amps 240 power and an additional 30 amp 240 line running back to the house for an emergency generator.
It's on 4.5 acres near the coast in northern California. We plan to retire there (and I plan to use the shop a lot! ha ha ).

The only problem with the shop (besides being very basic) is the doors. It appears to have had double barn doors on the garage at one point with the opening framed out with the 8x8 beams. They must have been in dire need of repair at some point and some silly person stuck a track and a sliding aluminum door across the front that looks like was a gate or maybe a piece of aluminum roofing. Very trashy looking and it's the first thing i see every time I go there. So I'm going to make some new doors.

I'm going to go with double swing barn type doors, and there is a detail in the doorway I want to enhance. The upper corners of the door opening framed in at a bevel of about 30-45 degrees (making the top 10 inches of the doorway more narrow). I want to keep that feature and put a row of small windows on the top row (sort of a craftsman period touch) and I'm looking for samples and suggestions. Especially if any one has one with the beveled corners.

Sort of like these:
le
http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/47f139fd0f86098d_4-7085/craftsman-garage.jpg

(but there is only one opening)

I want to keep the window height small. Both for security reasons and to work with the height of the beveled corners, so a single row is a better fit.

I'm also looking for hing and latch latch hardware ideas. I want to keep it close to a craftsman or bungalow period look (the house has elements of both) and I lean more towards the craftsman style. But I am going to frame the doors in aluminum (probably 1/8 1x4 rectangle tube I'll weld myself ) and hang the door surface on the AL frame (which I'll paint to match so I don't loose it's great classic shop feel

Thoughts, sample ideas, pics, and hardware suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

 

[RWorth]

how tall are the doors? Are you going to insulate the barn?

I've been considering similar for my garage, my door is 10'x10' so I was considering building a pair of 2'x5' window panels and hinging them separate from the doors as most of the time I do not need the 10' door height and 8' high doors will be much lighter.

 

[Gttrucker]

As was common with older garages, the doors are not very high. 7-8ft (I'll have to measure). If there isn't a big header bean, I might raise them a bit, but if there is a beam I'll leave it alone. I'll probably insulate and add a small heating unit. The weather is fairly mild so it's not critical, but being near the coast (about 3 miles) it does get some fog, so I want to seal out the moisture.

Weight is why I planned on an aluminum frame. It should keep them stiff and straight for years.

 

[Gttrucker]

Here are a couple doors.

The red is about the color of the building.

The green one show a rough approximation of the structure I'll use (though my dimensions will be different). A square frame with single diagonal for the main door area and an upper section for the windows. My doors will be wider and the window area smaller.

http://st.hzcdn.com/fimgs/8ce1102e019a83fe_7006-w239-h239-b0-p0--craftsman-garage.jpg

<div><a href='http://www.houzz.co.uk/photos/2363021/10x15-storage-shed-for-a-bungalow-arts-and-crafts-garden-shed-and-building-other-metro' target='_blank'><img src='http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/bcf1e44100e5ee43_8-6025/arts-and-crafts-garden-shed-and-building.jpg' alt='10'x15' Storage Shed for a Bungalow' border=0 width='500' height='376' nopin='nopin' /></a></div><div style='color:#444;'><small><a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="http://www.houzz.co.uk/pro/historicshed/historic-shed" target="_blank">Photo by Historic Shed</a> - <a style="text-decoration:none;color:#444;" href="http://www.houzz.co.uk/photos/traditional/garden-shed-and-building" target="_blank">Discover traditional garden shed and building design inspiration</a></small></div>

 

[Gttrucker]

The house and garage both have flat roofs with exposed joist ends sort of like this pic (but not as decorative). I might leave them as is, notch them as in the pic, or possibly enclose them altogether as some early flat roofs do .... wait, who am I kidding. This is my weekends I'm talking about. I don't want to spend it working on a roof! They'll be fine just they way they are ...lol

I'm not sure if that suggests any design ideas for the doors, but maybe. I am considering an extended awning on the front of the garage that does not have the door. Since it's just a wide flat area right in front, an awning with a permanent miter table bench would make working with long sticks easier. I tend to do a lot with steel and aluminum than come in 16-25ft lengths, so a miter table in front would avoid moving them around inside. There is already an awning on the outter side wall away from the garage doors that is sort of a material storage area that keeps it out of site. I might close than in and use it for sheet and stick storage making the front table very convenient.

Maybe a smaller lighter version of this without the arches

 

[Gttrucker]

Here is some cool hardware. Sort of an early industrial look.

 

[larry4406]

I like the green doors in Post 4.

I'm watching as I will be building a shed this fall and like the look of the barn door vs a traditional garage door.

 

[demeter008]

We recently acquired a property with a garage that desperately needs new doors. (I don't have pics at the moment, but I'll try to get some).

The house has an 800 square foot detached garage/shop. I believe the building was constructed in the 40's give or take a few years. The structure solid 8x8 upright beams with 6x8 cross beams, and a 12 foot ceiling. It's beautiful to see The outside is sided in red stained 1/2 x 10 redwood planks with brown stained 1x2 vertically trimming over the siding seams. The interior is divided into 3 rooms. One half is a garage, the other half is 2/3 an empty room, and 1/3 was a small workshop. The interior walls have been added and I might remove them and open it up into a single large shop.

It has a recent lifetime roof, 60 amps 240 power and an additional 30 amp 240 line running back to the house for an emergency generator.
It's on 4.5 acres near the coast in northern California. We plan to retire there (and I plan to use the shop a lot! ha ha ).

The only problem with the shop (besides being very basic) is the doors. It appears to have had double barn doors on the garage at one point with the opening framed out with the 8x8 beams. They must have been in dire need of repair at some point and some silly person stuck a track and a sliding aluminum door across the front that looks like was a gate or maybe a piece of aluminum roofing. Very trashy looking and it's the first thing i see every time I go there. So I'm going to make some new doors.

I'm going to go with double swing barn type doors, and there is a detail in the doorway I want to enhance. The upper corners of the door opening framed in at a bevel of about 30-45 degrees (making the top 10 inches of the doorway more narrow). I want to keep that feature and put a row of small windows on the top row (sort of a craftsman period touch) and I'm looking for samples and suggestions. Especially if any one has one with the beveled corners.

Sort of like these:
le
http://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/47f139fd0f86098d_4-7085/craftsman-garage.jpg

(but there is only one opening)

I want to keep the window height small. Both for security reasons and to work with the height of the beveled corners, so a single row is a better fit.

I'm also looking for hing and latch latch hardware ideas. I want to keep it close to a craftsman or bungalow period look (the house has elements of both) and I lean more towards the craftsman style. But I am going to frame the doors in aluminum (probably 1/8 1x4 rectangle tube I'll weld myself ) and hang the door surface on the AL frame (which I'll paint to match so I don't loose it's great classic shop feel

Thoughts, sample ideas, pics, and hardware suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks

I'm looking as I will construct a shed this fall and like the look of the horse shelter entryway versus a conventional carport entryway.

 

[Gttrucker]

I like the green doors in Post 4.

I'm watching as I will be building a shed this fall and like the look of the barn door vs a traditional garage door.

Yes, the doors are nice and very classic looking. I've always liked classic old workshops and the swing doors leave the ceiling space open. I like to use that space to organize and store infrequently used items

 

[matt_i]

As you probably know, two biggest issues are creating hinges that can sustain the moment-arm of the door and stay parallel, plus sealing the doorway opening. The hinges I typically see have a giant strap length on the moving part but a very short bolt spacing on the stationary part.

 

[Gttrucker]

I have a name for the kind of hinges that work well. Big Strong *** Hinges ....lol

I do have an 8x8 post to attach to, but instead of sinking big bolts into it, I might weld the hinges to a corner bracket of some kind and have it run the height of the door with multiple screws or some such idea after I think about it a while

I'm thinking maybe an old industrial looking hinge, so i could use a weldable barrel hinge attached to any arm I like. Trying to find the perfect hinge pre made for the right size and load is like asking to be frustrated or pay a ridiculous price for some thing a guy made just the way i would ha ha.

 

[Gttrucker]

This pic made me think. Maybe the windows would be better above the door.

 

[Gttrucker]

pic link is not working for some reason
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i2rTDE2GSUE/Teiulu-1cZI/AAAAAAAAAuI/Sq4RjJAB_2w/s1600/P5290048.JPG

 

[larry4406]

As you probably know, two biggest issues are creating hinges that can sustain the moment-arm of the door and stay parallel, plus sealing the doorway opening. The hinges I typically see have a giant strap length on the moving part but a very short bolt spacing on the stationary part.

This is exactly what troubles me with the barn doors and makes me think more towards an overhead sectional garage door. I can see sealing the sides and top with weatherstrip to the jamb, use an astragal to seal the doors to each other, but what about the bottom? I don't want to create a lip on the concrete for the door to seal to. Also, locking the doors to each other doesn't seem very secure, but I guess a cane bolt lock would work for one panel with the receiver cast into the concrete floor.

 

[captain14]

A couple of members have built carriage doors and posted their work in threads.
GJ Member Thruxton (sp?) was one that I remember And his shop was like your first picture posted above.

Use the search feature on the top banner and you should get several that pop up.

I'm on my phone and have never had good luck posting links to a thread.

 

[Gttrucker]

I would probably have to make the window frames to fit the door (cut n router etc.) above the door would be simpler, easier on the glass, and i like the way upper windows will shed light around the shop. So I might go that route.

I'm not too worried about the floor seal. Most garage doors don't seal there. Maybe some durable weather strip material just to keep rain from getting in. A lot of garages/shops have a little slope to the floor at the doorway to keep water from coming in.

For the latch, I will probably use a double cane bolt some thing like the pic (this one is a little light weight) on each door. I never like to lock one door to the other, I prefer both to be secure.
I might only expose one to the outside. The other door will have an outer handle but only unlock from inside. Most of the time I will only need to open one door anyway and that way the second latch can just have a lever and won't need a lock.

That would also assure that one door always opens first and closes last so I could add a lip to the seam between them to keep wind and rain out.

You can hammer drill holes in the cement and set a piece of round steel tube in the floor and just mount the upper ones where ever they need to be.

 

[Gttrucker]

If you want to weather tight it, just ad some alum or steel angle around the back side of the doors with some weather strip. it will also act as backstop for the doors.

I'll probably add some insulation and sheeting on the inside to keep it dry (I hate when moisture gets in and rusts tools), and that way it will be quieter, won't bother the wife when I'm working (even if I do crank up my music and i can always say I didn't hear her calling to tell me the trash needs to go out ha ha

 

[Duker]

If you want to weather tight it, just ad some alum or steel angle around the back side of the doors with some weather strip. it will also act as backstop for the doors.

I'll probably add some insulation and sheeting on the inside to keep it dry (I hate when moisture gets in and rusts tools), and that way it will be quieter, won't bother the wife when I'm working (even if I do crank up my music and i can always say I didn't hear her calling to tell me the trash needs to go out ha ha

In this issue of Fine Woodworkings Workshop Solution there is an article on building a set of doors ( and weather proofing a garage) that sound like what you are trying to achieve. http://www.tauntonstore.com/workshop-solutions-volume-2-digital-issue-d17018.html#video

In the print version its on page 106. Hopefully it will give you some ideas.

*

 

[Gttrucker]

Thanks.
Nice welding cart. I like the idea of air and power on the cart to keep cords and hoses from running across the floor.
And the slide out was GENIUS! I'm going to do that. Seems I'm always jury rigging to work with long pieces.

 

[Firebrick43]

I will be building a icf garage soon and this has the creative juices flowing.

I was thinking that the main plate profile could be 1/4" steel plasma cut to shape (perimeter and Windows. On the outside some PVC trim could be glued/bolted to the face to simulate the wood framing and for window framing. On the back a lightweight perimeter c channel stitch welded into place to stiffen the door and contain some blue board foam and then a piece of sheet aluminum screwed on with tek screws would finish it off. Would make for a bomb proof door. The reinforced concrete would carry the weight in my build but one might want to use aluminum on a wood frames building.

could open it. This style of opener looks as if it would be easy to adapt from a standard opener

 

[Gttrucker]

Id like to see an image to get a better 8dea of what you are describing. I like the bomb proof approach I'd prolly do that on another property, but my house and existing garage really call for more of a carriage house look.

Here's a like to a similar build. He used steel framing studs where I'm planning on 1×4 aluminum. And I will orient the studs to make a more shallow door (broad side of 1x4 against door) that puts more of the load on the strongest portion of the 1x4.

I hope I got the link right. Had trouble copying it on my phone

 

[visualj]

In this issue of Fine Woodworkings Workshop Solution there is an article on building a set of doors ( and weather proofing a garage) that sound like what you are trying to achieve. http://www.tauntonstore.com/workshop-solutions-volume-2-digital-issue-d17018.html#video

In the print version its on page 106. Hopefully it will give you some ideas.

*

I built a set of doors based on that article. Just a bit thinner. They worked out very well. Here is a pic before I stained them.

 

[Duker]

Thanks.
Nice welding cart. I like the idea of air and power on the cart to keep cords and hoses from running across the floor.
And the slide out was GENIUS! I'm going to do that. Seems I'm always jury rigging to work with long pieces.

Thanks, many of the ideas I got from this forum.




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[Duker]

I built a set of doors based on that article. Just a bit thinner. They worked out very well. Here is a pic before I stained them.

They look good, do you have a build thread on the rest of the building?


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[larry4406]

Duker - any chance you could post the article from Fine Woodworkings Workshop Solution regarding the door construction or post a link to it?

This carriage door project is quickly coming to the forefront for me.

 

[Duker]

Larry, I will try and find the issue but this kink will show you the article

https://issuu.com/pornsakh/docs/fine-woodworking--216-annual-issue---tools---shops


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[larry4406]

Larry, I will try and find the issue but this kink will show you the article

https://issuu.com/pornsakh/docs/fine-woodworking--216-annual-issue---tools---shops


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks Duker - I was able to glean what I needed from the link.

-larry

 

[kbs2244]

When it come to large, custom doors, I like to suggest people research :hanger door" and keep an open mind.

It is a problem that has been attacked in multiple ways.

In my experience the problem with large swinging doors has been wind.
(Snow also, but not a problem in N CA.)

 

[RPH]

Check this site, North Dakota State U farm plans for free.

https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans