Drill Bits, Sharpen Or Replace?

[Renegade1LI]

Okay who has had good luck sharpening twist bits? I have tried a few different bit sharpners and they just don't cut like new. I have piles of old bits, most if not all are usa made waiting to be sharpened. I keep saving them and replace with new so I think it's time to dump them, even though it kills me. Haven't looked to see if there's any online business that will sharpen, anyone send them out to be sharpened? Or have you found a good bit sharpener?

 

[whateg01]

Learn to sharpen by hand. I sharpen most of mine, even those that "aren't worth it". I also split points to reduce the need for a pilot. All without any fixtures. Fixtures can make it easier to get consistent results, of course, but they aren't necessary.

 

[danielbuck]

I use a drill bit sharpener, generally I sharpen anything that's 1/8" - 1/2" on the sharpener. Anything smaller than 1/8" I just buy them in larger quantities because they are pretty cheap and I just toss them when they are toast (I also don't really use drill bits smaller than 1/8" all that often). Larger than 1/2" I generally don't use often either, but I do sharpen them by hand on a grinding wheel as needed.

I have quite a few duplicates of all my drill bit sizes 1/2" or smaller, so when one is ready to be sharpened I put it into a "sharpen me" bin and grab a fresh one. Then every now and then sit down and sharpen all of the bits in the "sharpen me" bin all at once, and then put them back in their correct locations in my drill bit drawers. Drills larger than 1/2" I don't have many duplicates of, so those I'll usually sharpen as needed.

 

[Nutria]

There are lots of mixed opinions on Drill Doctor products, but they've generally been good for me. Grinder jigs can work well too. Both are inexpensive used. Lots of folks can free-hand effectively, but I'm not one of those yet.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Get one of those $30 jigs. Amazon, Walmart, Harbor freight, Grizzly, Home Depot all have them.

 

[Dave455]

I’m with danielbuck on this.

Anything between 1/8 and 1/2 I sharpen using a drill sharpener. No, they’re never quite as good as when new, but they’re good enough.

Anything over 1/2 inch I sharpen on the grinder by hand. Just hold the angle correct, turn the drill as you grind, and don’t try to take too much off.

If you can sharpen a pencil lead on sandpaper you can sharpen a drill. You might need a couple for practice, but if you are going to bin them anyway, it doesn’t matter.

Anything below 1/8 I consider disposable. In fact, I only buy TiN coated now in the smaller sizes. The lifespan is very good and they’re not that costly,

 

[larry_g]

If you understand the geometry of a twist drill, the angles, relief, and web size you can be successful at sharpening them. If you think that you can just present it to a drill sharpener like a pencil to a pencil sharpener then your not going to be very successful. Like said above try some by hand on the grinding wheel and learn what a good bit is and how to check it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[MarineScott]

I use the Darex Drill Doctor. I have two of them, 20 years apart. The older one was under water for 3 days when we lost everything in a flood, and a friend took it home and cleaned it and dried it, still works, used it today. Bits that have the temper taken out by over heating, I cut the bit, grind a general shape, and then sharpen. I can sharpen up to 3/4 in.

 

[Boilerhouse]

I am another one who sharpens bits over 1/8 and just replaces anything smaller. I buy double ended jobber bits in 1/8 inch size in packs of 10 and these get used anytime i start a pilot hole for a larger bit.

 

[Walkers]

I have a 2” upright belt sander that makes sharpening by hand fairly easy. As my eyesight gets worse I find I am sharpening less of the smaller drills though.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

Anything between 1/8 and 5/8 I sharpen using a drill doctor. Love it. About 6-10 ten seconds per bit for repeatable factory-sharp bits.

 

[darkzero]

I sharpen cause I can. For small drills say under 1/8" l'll just replace. I have a Drill Doctor 750, while it worked ok it wouldn't always work for me depending on the helix. S&D drills I sharpen by hand cause I don't have anything that can sharpen them. The DD750 fits up to 3/4" but I couldn't get it sharpen any S&D I've tried on it, couldn't get it to grind enough relief no matter what I tried.

I only keep the DD around for LH drills, I bought the optional LH chuck for it. I've tried to sharpen LH drills by hand before but my brain is just not capable of doing it. Lol

This is the sharpener that I use. It's not as expensive as a real Darex or other industrial/pro grade sharpeners but still pretty expensive compared to a DD & to most DIYrs. I'm a hobby "machinist" so it was well the price.

It's basically a rebranded MRCM MR-13D that I got from my local Travers on sale. Can be purchased for much less than I paid from Aliexpress or now Vevor. There are other models that are cheaper with less features (no web thinning, or split point)

 

[whateg01]

One nice thing about sharpening by hand is that I can set the angle of the cutting edges at whatever I want it to be depending on the material. I know most sharpeners can be adjusted for different angles too but I think it's quicker to just do it by hand.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I have a drill doctor for stuff above 1/4. 1/4 and below are disposable to me. Most of my use now is with step-bit tipped bits now anyways, which I can't really be sharpened. Same deal with my cobalt spot weld bits, one and done.

I buy packs of 10, of commonly used stuff.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I always like to have new tools. I wanted to learn how to sharpen drill bits better. I had been watching for a high quality bit grinder for a very long time. I found this STERLING with Google search, over 6 years ago. SAVONA Equipment had this one for sale. They were not "giving it away" but I could not pass on it. I made the guard and installed the electric box. The mobile base makes moving this heavy machine easy.
If a person is serious about quality drill bit sharpening, another good brand is the Lisle 91000. I would buy a Lisle in an instant, if one was offered for sale, here.

 

[paulsomlo]

I use one of these: https://www.drill-grinder.com/tdr-srd-drill-grinder-model-80-m/

Got it off ebay for much less than the price of a new one.

 

[Jswain]

Learning to sharpen by hand is a priceless value. I too, only sharpen bigger than 1/8 but if you have a lot of drill bits it's definitely worth the time it takes to figure it out.

I would practise with around 1/4-3/8" bits, dress the grinding wheel and use your fingers, nothing special needed. They don't need to be perfect for most work but the more you do it the easier it gets.

To touch a bit up after using it a bunch takes about 30 seconds then you put it back ready to go.

The two nuts tacked together is a handy reference

 

[Steve_P]

I also have a drill doctor; it works great. There is no way that a human can sharpen drill bits free-handed as consistently and accurately as a DD. Sorry, it's just not possible. And of course, now here come the posts claiming they can. You can claim that, and yes, it will probably look and work ok, but there is no way that it will actually measure consistently like a DD will, time after time. This is like claiming you can weld as quickly as a robot, do wheel alignments with string that equal a modern machine, you don't need a surface grinder because you have a file.....

 

[Jswain]

I also have a drill doctor; it works great. There is no way that a human can sharpen drill bits free-handed as consistently and accurately as a DD. Sorry, it's just not possible. And of course, now here come the posts claiming they can. You can claim that, and yes, it will probably look and work ok, but there is no way that it will actually measure consistently like a DD will, time after time. This is like claiming you can weld as quickly as a robot, do wheel alignments with string that equal a modern machine, you don't need a surface grinder because you have a file.....

So if it looks and works ok, what else does a drill need to do?

You don't need to justify your purchase to me homie. I have no doubt they work good, probably better on smaller bits that are hard to see. But you also have to fork over money for them and dedicate a space for it.

When I can't sharpen a drill bit that cuts steel excellent in under 30 seconds walking over to my bench grinder that's already plugged in I'll think about it

 

[Sumboodie]

Drill Dr works ok. I often have to tune them up a bit by hand, but that's easy vs sharpening a wrecked or broken bit by hand.

Just cleaning up a bit, easy to just to by hand.

I'm sure if I did them often I'd be better on the grinder.

Drill Dr maxes out at only 3/4" too.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

Old timer showed me how to hand sharpen drill bits a long time ago. I do like most of you and consider 1/8” and less consumables. Another skill is you can make special short lengths and salvage broken bits too

 

[Whitworth]

It depends on what you're using the drill bits for. If you're drilling pilot holes building a deck, half the bits will break anyways, why bother sharpening. Just burn your way through.

If you're doing machine shop work. You're not going to get a factory grind without an inordinate amount of time and care.
Not worth it for 1/2" and below.

 

[Rockable]

I learned to do it by hand 50 years ago but I frequently use my Drill Dr. for less than 1/2". Anything less than 3/16 I buy. I'm usually using those for pilots or clecos anyway.

In college, I taught a shop lab. Teaching someone to sharpen twist drills is really hard to do and hard to explain when they "just don't get it". If you understand how to do it by hand, you can get good results with Drill Dr.

 

[MarkH]

Add another one to do not mess with the little bits. Depending on the mood from 3/16 to 1/4 is seldom sharpened just replaced. They are not bought as a set just 10+ at a time replacements. Above that usually hand sharpened if the main person responsible for the shop is there. There are a couple drill doctors if he is not available. Limits the variability.

 

[rmack898]

There is no way that a human can sharpen drill bits free-handed as consistently and accurately as a DD. Sorry, it's just not possible.

I’ve worked in many shops where an attitude like that would make you unemployed.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Surprisingly, the directions that came with my little sharpener taught me a lot
I got mine at a yard sale decades ago, it looks like the google image below.

 

[NORTON'S SHOP]

A lifetime ago when I was in trade school, our first project was to sharpen a drill on a pedestal grinder. This had to be completed before moving on to the next project. Having different jobs involved with my tool making career, I have sharpened thousands of drills, maybe hard to believe, but true. Most have been sharpened on every different industrial drill grinder imaginable. One grinder that I really liked was Optima, pictured below, taken from the internet. Very accurate and could do most any point ever needed. It would split point in the same setup. Made in Switzerland. Very, very expensive new. I ran across a NOS Optima a few years back for a quarter the price of new. Still expensive though. Will it ever pay for itself by me using it? Hell no, not even close. BTW, almost all drill bits bought off the shelf will need to be resharpened, I don't care what brand it is or how much it cost. Biggest problem is the heel is higher than the cutting edge.

 

[zmotorsports]

I would say that learning to sharpen drill bits was probably THE most rewarding skill I could have asked to pursue.

I was given a brief introduction in Jr. High School from a shop teacher who had us make a drill bit and chisel sharpening guide from aluminum plate.

When I began my career as an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic in 1988 the shop I worked in had one of those large attachments that bolted to a bench grinder. Although I spent a lot of time using it I found it cumbersome and inconvenient the vast majority of the time. I then purchased a Drill Doctor and although a bit easier to use, I still found it rather time consuming and a PITA to use.

About 20 years ago I set out to fine tune my skill of freehand sharpening drill bits and I can say that I use that skillset almost daily now and it has proven to be probably the most cherished and rewarding skill I possess. Besides the vast amount of money I have saved myself, the reward of seeing even and consistent chips pulling out of material is such a rewarding feeling.

Just two weeks ago I had a couple of coworkers ask if I would demonstrate, explain and show them how to sharpen drill bits and it was nice to actually go back to the basics again while explaining it. I have become so used to just grabbing the bit, walking up to the bench grinder and just doing the task, that I may have actually taken it for granted. Taking the time to show my fellow maintenance mechanics what took me decades to fine tune was also very rewarding.

I also explained that I NEVER put a dull or chipped bit back into the drill index without it being ready to use. After I remove a drill bit from the drill chuck I inspect to verify it is still in perfect condition. IF it looks good it goes back into the drill index and I move on. If it has a dull edge or worse, a small chip, then it immediately gets touched up on the bench grinder before it goes back into the drill index. It takes merely a minute or less to touch one up before going back into the index and therefore it is ready at any given time to instantly pull from the index and go directly into an drill chuck. I don't even look at the bits now when I pull them from my index because I know it will already be sharp as I grab it.

In those very rare occasions that I am in too big of a hurry to touch one up before replacing it in the index, then I set it on the bench and touch it up when cleaning up from the task and then put it back into the index. Although I keep several common sizes of bits on hand as spares or replacements, I have found I seldom have to buy drill bits as they last such a long time.

If you take the time to learn the skill and practice often you will be surprised how quickly you can develop this skill for yourself.

 

[whateg01]

It depends on what you're using the drill bits for. If you're drilling pilot holes building a deck, half the bits will break anyways, why bother sharpening. Just burn your way through.

If you're doing machine shop work. You're not going to get a factory grind without an inordinate amount of time and care.
Not worth it for 1/2" and below.

If you're breaking that many drills, you're doing something wrong. If you're doing machine work, you shouldn't be relying on a drill for an accurately placed or sized hole.

 

[zendriver]

Sharpen

 

[NoahG]

1/4” and under I don’t bother. I’ve started buying the Bauer multipacks for general shop stock. I keep an index drawer of Blitz bits separate from the main crib for those who really need them.

 

[GrayFlattop]

Like many of the above - 1/8" and under - I just replace. Anything over that gets sharpened by hand on the bench grinder. Freshman year of High School, we had a great metalshop teacher - very old school, but memorable. One of our first projects was to make a drill bit sharpening gauge out of 1/8 steel plate. Cut the shape with a hack saw and file all the edges to a line. The graduations were scribed-in by hand. You had to be able to correctly sharpen a drill bit before you would be allowed to use the drill press. He looked over our shoulder to be certain that you could get two nice continuous chips off of your sharpened drill bit. If not, you didn't pass "GO".

Similar with the lathe - everyone had to make the good ol' tool post wrench (with scriber in the handle) to be able to use the lathe - AND you had to successfully sharpen the tool bit as well. We also learned to forge a cold chisel from hex stock, heat-treat it as well as a center punch and sand cast something out of Aluminum (I don't recall what I cast - that was over a half-century ago).

We then had to demonstrate proficiency at using both the vertical and horizontal mills as well as the surface grinders - making a C-clamp - the screw you turned on the lathe. I laugh at that now because at work we have over 40 journeymen machinists and I think only ONE of them even knows how to chase threads, but he uses a CNC lathe, so that's cheating...

We had to make a small hammer - and that was turned - complete with crisp knurling. Drill and tap the head - chase threads for the handle on the lathe.

We also had to do some rudimentary sheetmetal work - torch soldering with a an acetylene torch, then brazing followed by oxy-acetylene welding. Only then did we try our hand at stick welding.

Our teacher was a real maestro - the shop had only 6 small South bend lathes and he rotated everyone around the shop to the different stations to complete the list of tasks. If you got everything on the list completed, he would challenge you with fun stuff - like welding aluminum with a torch. THAT was ugly, but it is possible.

I must say, the lessons learned in that class, as well as all of the other shop classes I took really stuck with me and I still use the skills today. It's a damn shame that most of the High Schools have discontinued them, but I don't make the rules...

 

[zmotorsports]

Like many of the above - 1/8" and under - I just replace. Anything over that gets sharpened by hand on the bench grinder. Freshman year of High School, we had a great metalshop teacher - very old school, but memorable. One of our first projects was to make a drill bit sharpening gauge out of 1/8 steel plate. Cut the shape with a hack saw and file all the edges to a line. The graduations were scribed-in by hand. You had to be able to correctly sharpen a drill bit before you would be allowed to use the drill press. He looked over our shoulder to be certain that you could get two nice continuous chips off of your sharpened drill bit. If not, you didn't pass "GO".

Similar with the lathe - everyone had to make the good ol' tool post wrench (with scriber in the handle) to be able to use the lathe - AND you had to successfully sharpen the tool bit as well. We also learned to forge a cold chisel from hex stock, heat-treat it as well as a center punch and sand cast something out of Aluminum (I don't recall what I cast - that was over a half-century ago).

We then had to demonstrate proficiency at using both the vertical and horizontal mills as well as the surface grinders - making a C-clamp - the screw you turned on the lathe. I laugh at that now because at work we have over 40 journeymen machinists and I think only ONE of them even knows how to chase threads, but he uses a CNC lathe, so that's cheating...

We had to make a small hammer - and that was turned - complete with crisp knurling. Drill and tap the head - chase threads for the handle on the lathe.

We also had to do some rudimentary sheetmetal work - torch soldering with a an acetylene torch, then brazing followed by oxy-acetylene welding. Only then did we try our hand at stick welding.

Our teacher was a real maestro - the shop had only 6 small South bend lathes and he rotated everyone around the shop to the different stations to complete the list of tasks. If you got everything on the list completed, he would challenge you with fun stuff - like welding aluminum with a torch. THAT was ugly, but it is possible.

I must say, the lessons learned in that class, as well as all of the other shop classes I took really stuck with me and I still use the skills today. It's a damn shame that most of the High Schools have discontinued them, but I don't make the rules...

Sounds like we had similar shop teachers in having us make gauges and learn to sharpen bits. Although we didn't have lathes and milling machines, only drill presses and welders. My shop class was basic metalworking and never got a chance to take any advanced metalworking classes.

 

[whateg01]

... It's a damn shame that most of the High Schools have discontinued them, but I don't make the rules...

While I do agree with you, the fact is, most students who take these classes today really just use the period to goof off. My son took two years of machine shop in HS. He had a leg up since he'd been using machines in my shop for years before that. He and one other student were the only two who actually participated and did the assignments. He said he watched students intentionally screwing up the assignments, drilling into vises, etc.

 

[SilverJimmy]

I would say that learning to sharpen drill bits was probably THE most rewarding skill I could have asked to pursue.

I was given a brief introduction in Jr. High School from a shop teacher who had us make a drill bit and chisel sharpening guide from aluminum plate.

When I began my career as an Industrial Maintenance Mechanic in 1988 the shop I worked in had one of those large attachments that bolted to a bench grinder. Although I spent a lot of time using it I found it cumbersome and inconvenient the vast majority of the time. I then purchased a Drill Doctor and although a bit easier to use, I still found it rather time consuming and a PITA to use.

About 20 years ago I set out to fine tune my skill of freehand sharpening drill bits and I can say that I use that skillset almost daily now and it has proven to be probably the most cherished and rewarding skill I possess. Besides the vast amount of money I have saved myself, the reward of seeing even and consistent chips pulling out of material is such a rewarding feeling.

Just two weeks ago I had a couple of coworkers ask if I would demonstrate, explain and show them how to sharpen drill bits and it was nice to actually go back to the basics again while explaining it. I have become so used to just grabbing the bit, walking up to the bench grinder and just doing the task, that I may have actually taken it for granted. Taking the time to show my fellow maintenance mechanics what took me decades to fine tune was also very rewarding.

I also explained that I NEVER put a dull or chipped bit back into the drill index without it being ready to use. After I remove a drill bit from the drill chuck I inspect to verify it is still in perfect condition. IF it looks good it goes back into the drill index and I move on. If it has a dull edge or worse, a small chip, then it immediately gets touched up on the bench grinder before it goes back into the drill index. It takes merely a minute or less to touch one up before going back into the index and therefore it is ready at any given time to instantly pull from the index and go directly into an drill chuck. I don't even look at the bits now when I pull them from my index because I know it will already be sharp as I grab it.

In those very rare occasions that I am in too big of a hurry to touch one up before replacing it in the index, then I set it on the bench and touch it up when cleaning up from the task and then put it back into the index. Although I keep several common sizes of bits on hand as spares or replacements, I have found I seldom have to buy drill bits as they last such a long time.

If you take the time to learn the skill and practice often you will be surprised how quickly you can develop this skill for yourself.

Sounds like a great idea for a video on your YouTube channel!

 

[MarineScott]

I also have a drill doctor; it works great. There is no way that a human can sharpen drill bits free-handed as consistently and accurately as a DD. Sorry, it's just not possible. And of course, now here come the posts claiming they can. You can claim that, and yes, it will probably look and work ok, but there is no way that it will actually measure consistently like a DD will, time after time. This is like claiming you can weld as quickly as a robot, do wheel alignments with string that equal a modern machine, you don't need a surface grinder because you have a file.....

 

[zmotorsports]

Sounds like a great idea for a video on your YouTube channel!

You know what Sterling, you might be on to something. I just may have to do that.

Thanks.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I can see I have to step up my game and learn the art of drill bit sharpening. The good thing is I have alot of bits to practice on, lol.

 

[SilverJimmy]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Me too!!!

 

[82355]

I just free hand sharpen them with a bench grinder.

Sometimes I do better than others.....

Martin