Drill Doctors: Tips and Tricks

[Beowulf]

There is definitely a love/hate relationship with these. People either instantly love them or hate. Regardless, many of us have them. I figured we should post up our tips and tricks on usage. I have always had great luck in sharpening bits. Don't know why, just lucky.

My only tip is gentle pantience. I don't try to hurry or force anything. Often this means I am doing way more turns than is suggested it takes, but my bits seem to turn out.

I'd love to hear what issues others have had and what they did to fix it, or what they have always done that just seems to work.

For me there does not seem to be much wiggle room, so I don't know what issues one might run into.

Let's try to keep the just use a bench grinder taunts to a minimum. We should definitely start a Tips and Tricks for Bench Grinder Sharpening though. The more skills discussed the better.

 

[LX-Markham]

I have a Drill Doctor, but no skills LOL
therefore subscribing

 

[onewaydave]

I like mine, except for the FF (forgetfulness factor). I only use it now and then and have to read the directions each time.

An exception to beowulf's rule against grinders, if you have broken or badly damaged drills, you should use a bench grinder to at least get the shape roughed out before going to the DD.

Dave.

 

[stomperxj]

I bought one a couple years ago... Tried to use it and it seemed the grit on the sanding bit/drum was way too coarse and the whole machine was 100% plastic and felt cheap. Sounded like a toy when it was on. I ruined a couple drill bits with it and then took it back for a refund.

I'd love to see how they actually work and if the more expensive models work better than the cheaper one I got. It could have been 100% user error...

 

[66HertzClone]

IME with this thing is it seems to work far better with larger size bits than with the smaller diameter ones. I think the smaller bits flex of may bend slightly when applied to the stone, thus changing the angle and the precision of the cut.

 

[larry_g]

The first thing that you need to know is what a good bit looks like and how to measure it. I have one of the original machines and have done many hundreds of bits on it and use for touching up dull bits. As Dave says it is not for grinding broken bits or bits that you want to change the architecture on. On my machine I had to do a bit of tweaking on it to get the rake correct but once that was done it has served me well.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Antique Engine]

I'm in the group that is very happy with their Drill Doctor. I use it on every bit from large to small. But, like the fellow above, I tend to forget how to use the thing and have to re-watch the video each time.

I tend to sit down nice and comfortable and sharpen a bunch of bits at a sitting. No rush, being methodical and following the recommended procedure to a tee.

 

[Rookie2]

keep it clean ! the dust will kill the chuck allignment after awhile.

 

[rlitman]

I watched the video tape when I got mine (yeah, they came with one of those back then). It takes a little finesse to get the motions right.

As said above, go lightly. Use a grinder the rough in the shape of a broken or badly damaged bit. And the most I get is 3 full rotations of cutting before I need to stop and re-align the bit.

 

[jjjrmx5]

Older but loved and well used Model 500 here.

Smaller bits can be hard to align and find the flutes.

Big bits take many passes and require patience, lots of patience---just like AOL Dial-Up interwebz used to.

I also do machine (aka machine screw aka stubby) length bits in mine and they require that you use a needle nosed pliers to twist the bit to align since there is no bit protruding from the chuck back. LOLOZ but true. PITA but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

If doing only 1/2" and under bits flipping the wheel over does indeed double its life.

And when doing the above, placing the unit in the freezer (and wrapping the grinding wheel in duct tape prior to do so as to not damage wheel when removing after freezer removal) does make fast business of using the freeze-thaw idea when getting the wheel off.

Learn how to use the adjustable settings.

Sometimes you have to cheat to get desired results.

If used and used well it's cost is well worth the reward. Trade sharpening a buddy's bits for tools, beer or help (aka future indentured servitude on a project). Works every time.

 

[kevinstj]

Just bought a newer model( don't remember what model number) but I think they work just fine. I liked the older model a lot better. Anything over 1/2 " gets too big for the machine. I think for a small machine shop or home use you can't beat them .

 

[McFarmer]

I bought the one that will do spade bits, man I have gotten my money out of that. I drill 1 inch holes in a lot of fence posts, and a sharp bit is really nice.

I would buy it just for that.

 

[rshadd]

I have an older 400 model and it's works well for me. I only use it every other year or so and when I do get it out, I find that I have to re-read the directions a few times until I get the procedure down.

Once I get a few bits done, it starts to go faster. I have to use a magnifying glass to inspect the bits that I've sharpened in order to assure I've got the alignment set up perfectly.

I don't know any tricks other than following the directions.

Was the Drill Doctor made in the USA? I couldn't find any COO marks on mine.

 

[Beowulf]

Just bought a newer model( don't remember what model number) but I think they work just fine. I liked the older model a lot better. Anything over 1/2 " gets too big for the machine. I think for a small machine shop or home use you can't beat them .[/QUOTE

kevinstj,

Are you taking the brand new 500 and 750 models? I have been looking at them. I use an older 750. It stands more vertical. Thought about selling it and getting the new model.

 

[Riverside]

I've had a 750 model for about 5 years or so. I typically use it several times each week, and sometimes 20 times a day. I had troubles for a while getting consistent results between different sizes of bits. I kept getting a negative rake on larger bits. I learned to turn in the +/- knob more for larger bits. Since then, I've had pretty good results. Bottom line: it requires more skill/knowledge than the ads suggest, but I still get better results than previous sharpening methods I have used.

 

[road]

I have the 350x model ..
I am the same, every time I need to use it I have to re read the destructions..
We have a love hate thing going on .. I love it , It hates me... lol
They do feel kinda sloppy and plasticy
But I have spent many hours sitting at the work bench sharpening bits for hours on end.. they work well once you get use to them.

smaller bits can be a pita to sharpen and I think I have enough drill bits to just toss out a broken or dull one now n then ..

 

[larry_g]

I went out and ran a few bits just to refresh the memory. If your sharpening salvage bits then make sure that the machine is set for 118 or 135 degree point angle. The bits are sensitive to rotation in the chuck. I install the bit in the chuck and then take one rotation on the cutting wheel and then inspect under the magnifying glass. If it looks good then proceed to sharpen. It also helps to see what is being cut by coloring the tip of the drill bit with a sharpie. I count the HALF turns and do an even number as this gives each lip the same number of passes over the cutter wheel. If you want take a good/new bit and blacken the tip. Run it through the machine one pass and see if it removes the black evenly. If it does then your good to go. If not then figure out what may be wrong. (It might be the bit is wrong from the factory..)

lg

no neat sig line

 

[Riverside]

It also helps to see what is being cut by coloring the tip of the drill bit with a sharpie.

Excellent advice. If I am having problems with a particular bit, I mark the tip to figure out what is happening. I find it especially helpful on larger bits, which take longer to sharpen.

 

[ford33]

I have sharpened about 100 bits with my model 500. I like it and appreciate the sharpness of the bits when I am done.

 

[PECVD2]

As said above re-read the instructions if you don't use it often. I just about make it a habit to resharpen a bit after drilling through hardened metal or unistrut. Otherwise I re-sharpen the bit case twice a year. Also as said above do not attempt to reshape a bit just use the Dr to sharpen and dont push hard on the chuck just rotate and allow the light grinding to work.

 

[Steevo]

I love mine. I have the 750X, and my only regret is that it can't sharpen my large ( > 3/4") bits.
Go easy, and if a bit needs more than 4 or six "swipes", then re-align it after 6 to keep the rake right.
I wish there was a "Mini-Drill-Dr" for the < 3/16" bits.

 

[JakeKohl]

Ok, whew, I ground a 1/8" bit to a nub last week thinking that I was inferior and couldn't figure out the darn machine. I had hoped to avoid having to buy so many dang small bits...but I guess I'm back to buying them in bulk. It does do pretty well on the larger bits - and marking the tip with a sharpie to see where it is grinding is helpful.

 

[mrpowderkeg]

I have given up on it... I usually make the bits worse on the DD than they were. I wish I knew what I was doing wrong. After hours and hours and many bits with hit or miss success I have demoted my DD to sharpening lathe bits with just the diamond wheel.

 

[bgarrett]

I almost learned something from this thread. I've never seen any instructions or video, been using mine for almost 10 years.
+/- knob ?? whats that? Dont think I have one
set for 118 or 135 degree point angle?? dont have that either
I re-sharpen the bit case twice a year.?? whats a bit case?

 

[Riverside]

+/- knob ?? whats that? Dont think I have one

OK, I was lazy when I mentioned that. Now I have consulted the manual of my 750X and the proper name for the knob is Adjustable Material Take Off (MTO). I guess it only comes on the 750X. It can push the bit slightly further back into the chuck to fine tune the relief angle adjustment set by the insertion of the chuck into the selected notches of the alignment port. If your DD doesn't have the MTO, you might accomplish the same result with a couple of shims (~1/16" and 1/8"). Maybe.

 

[brownbagg]

mine is a piece of chit, its one of the worst tools i ever bought. yes the talk was high that it was the best, mine is worthless, i don't think i have used it in five years because its so bad. there got to be something better

 

[larry_g]

I almost learned something from this thread. I've never seen any instructions or video, been using mine for almost 10 years.
+/- knob ?? whats that? Dont think I have one
set for 118 or 135 degree point angle?? dont have that either
I re-sharpen the bit case twice a year.?? whats a bit case?

View media item 26253
The Square holed handle in the above picture set the chuck angle for grinding 118* or 135* bits. Like I said in my first post, you have to know how to measure a bit and the angle of the cutting edges of the bit is one of these things you have to know.

Another problem with this thread is that there are quite a few variations of the Drill Doctor. Features do vary with the age of the machine and the model.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[McFarmer]

mine is a piece of chit, its one of the worst tools i ever bought. yes the talk was high that it was the best, mine is worthless, i don't think i have used it in five years because its so bad. there got to be something better

At work we had a Lisle sharpener, very good results.

 

[Beowulf]

Let's list the model number that is being used when giving the tip.

 

[jjjrmx5]

View media item 26253
The Square holed handle in the above picture set the chuck angle for grinding 118* or 135* bits. Like I said in my first post, you have to know how to measure a bit and the angle of the cutting edges of the bit is one of these things you have to know.

Another problem with this thread is that there are quite a few variations of the Drill Doctor. Features do vary with the age of the machine and the model.

lg
no neat sig line

And to expound further, you hve to pull the black square pull and move it up and own to make the DD go from 118 degrees to 135 degrees.

And the "V" in blue plastic side is there to tell you your bit cut. One V is 118. One is 135.

Move it to the bit size that matches.

Don't like the machine go buy a $4k Darex pro sharpener or try and find one at auction.


There is one in every garage for sale. For cheap.
In every city and town.
Trust me.

Hahahahahahahahahaha.

 

[phred]

I threw mine out, what a waste if time and piece of junk. I went back to sharpening my bits the way I learn when I worked my way through college in a machine shop. Grinder and belt sander. I can usually touch up a bit in about 30secs and resharpen a trashed bit in about 5min

 

[trainer]

I have a 350x model.
You have to follow the instructions exactly. It's not a machine that you can just wing it with. It's a precision process.

Youtube has instruction videos that are worth watching if you are having trouble. Take your time and be gentle..
I found that using the thumb on my left hand to hold the cam against the follower while rotating the chuck with my right hand helps to keep it in proper alignment.

 

[kevinstj]

Just bought a newer model( don't remember what model number) but I think they work just fine. I liked the older model a lot better. Anything over 1/2 " gets too big for the machine. I think for a small machine shop or home use you can't beat them .[/QUOTE

kevinstj,

Are you taking the brand new 500 and 750 models? I have been looking at them. I use an older 750. It stands more vertical. Thought about selling it and getting the new model.

I think it was the old 750 model. I just think it was easier to make the point adjustments.

 

[kevinstj]

If the collets were made of aluminum they would be so much better . I have problems with the drill slipping back in to the collet.

 

[kevinstj]

And to expound further, you hve to pull the black square pull and move it up and own to make the DD go from 118 degrees to 135 degrees.

And the "V" in blue plastic side is there to tell you your bit cut. One V is 118. One is 135.

Move it to the bit size that matches.

Don't like the machine go buy a $4k Darex pro sharpener or try and find one at auction.


There is one in every garage for sale. For cheap.
In every city and town.
Trust me.

Hahahahahahahahahaha.

This is the model I like.

 

[TireTracks]

So, are these things really worth the money? I've got a bunch of bits that need sharpening, and I **** at doing it with a grinder.

I don't have any twist drills above 1/2", so that isnt a problem.

 

[brownbagg]

no, they are not worth the money, I put them right there with the ronco ads at time.

 

[Antique Engine]

So, are these things really worth the money? I've got a bunch of bits that need sharpening, and I **** at doing it with a grinder.

I don't have any twist drills above 1/2", so that isnt a problem.

I very much think so. I use mine according to the instructions and it sharpens my bits very well. I'd definitely buy it again.

 

[mikegt4]

I very much think so. I use mine according to the instructions and it sharpens my bits very well. I'd definitely buy it again.

X2
Mine has easily paid for itself. The instructions have to be followed exactly to get the best out of it.

 

[alxdgr8]

I just got mine from the hot deals thread, got a 750X. I youtube'd the instructional video and watched it several times and I played with it. First bit in and it came out perfect. I've done about 20 bits from the drawer that were dull. Now to go and sharpen my sets. Absolutely worth the money in my eyes. I'm not sure why people have bad luck with them. You definitely need to watch the video and not just read the book that came with it (that thing is indeed worthless).