Drill Press

[Dustyflannel]

Hi all, I've done a lot of wiring, but I don't usually wire up power tools and motors. Can I use one of these for my power cord and just lop off the female connector? I kinda like the built in plug as opposed to the add-on kind. I found one power cord with only the male plug, but it's shorter and cost the same. There's also the blue cord which appears to have a better jacket. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DKBND43/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Amazon.com: 12 AWG Power Cord 12FT Open End Heavy Duty 12 Gauge 3 Prong 12 Foot 3 Wire SJT Power Supply Cord NEMA 5-15P, 1875W at 125V Replacement Power Cord for Power Tool : Electronics

Amazon.com: 12 AWG Power Cord 12FT Open End Heavy Duty 12 Gauge 3 Prong 12 Foot 3 Wire SJT Power Supply Cord NEMA 5-15P, 1875W at 125V Replacement Power Cord for Power Tool : Electronics

www.amazon.com

I'm not trying to get away with the minimum, I like to go long haul, and don't mind spending a few extra bucks. Thanks!

 

[PoorUB]

Hi all, I've done a lot of wiring, but I don't usually wire up power tools and motors. Can I use one of these for my power cord and just lop off the female connector?

Any of them will work fine. I do the same all the time.
If I replace a power cord on a tool I wire it up with a 10 or 12 foot cord and often do not need an extension cord.

Crazy isn't it? You can buy a 25 foot cord for the same price as a 10 foot pigtail.

As for adding a light, no problems, run it off the same cord.

I was thinking of putting a motor rated switch on the incoming power and switch the VFD and light with it.

 

[Davefr]

Any of them will work fine. I do the same all the time.
If I replace a power cord on a tool I wire it up with a 10 or 12 foot cord and often do not need an extension cord.

Crazy isn't it? You can buy a 25 foot cord for the same price as a 10 foot pigtail.

As for adding a light, no problems, run it off the same cord.

I was thinking of putting a motor rated switch on the incoming power and switch the VFD and light with it.

Here's what I used for mine. It's a motor rated switch with pilot light. You plug in a little heater module into the switch depending on how much overload protection you. The pilot light is nice because it reminds you the VFD is energized. I found mine on Ebay and they're not very expensive. I don't think a VFD needs an inductive rated switch but there's nothing wrong with overkill.

 

[PoorUB]

Here's what I used for mine. It's a motor rated switch with pilot light. You plug in a little heater module into the switch depending on how much overload protection you. The pilot light is nice because it reminds you the VFD is energized. I found mine on Ebay and they're not very expensive. I don't think a VFD needs an inductive rated switch but there's nothing wrong with overkill.

Nothing wrong with the switch except it is pretty much unnecessary to have protection like that in front of the VFD, after all the VFD settings will protect for a motor over load. A simple on off rated for the load will suffice.

In HVAC we installed a lot of VFDs, even on equipment that didn't need motor speed control. The biggest reason was VFDs are getting inexpensive and offer more features than a commercial motor starter at half the price, plus a motor running on a VFD will pull slightly less amps than the same motor wired direct.

 

[Dustyflannel]

Here's what I used for mine. It's a motor rated switch with pilot light. You plug in a little heater module into the switch depending on how much overload protection you. The pilot light is nice because it reminds you the VFD is energized. I found mine on Ebay and they're not very expensive. I don't think a VFD needs an inductive rated switch but there's nothing wrong with overkill.

Thanks Dave for taking the time to post that switch. I think I found it at Grainger.. That is one costly switch my friend! (Heater sold separately). Not sure I'll go that route, but I do appreciate the knowledge. Much thanks.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3HYJ8?ef_id=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK43qXtSsuynaEvbMlSNiXuxC0cyiGCgAL9y8aCbRg8cvlhliZgrc3qhoCUL4QAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!496359971038!!!g!438993006185!&gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK43qXtSsuynaEvbMlSNiXuxC0cyiGCgAL9y8aCbRg8cvlhliZgrc3qhoCUL4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Dustyflannel]

Nothing wrong with the switch except it is pretty much unnecessary to have protection like that in front of the VFD, after all the VFD settings will protect for a motor over load. A simple on off rated for the load will suffice.

In HVAC we installed a lot of VFDs, even on equipment that didn't need motor speed control. The biggest reason was VFDs are getting inexpensive and offer more features than a commercial motor starter at half the price, plus a motor running on a VFD will pull slightly less amps than the same motor wired direct.

I think I'll be using a less expensive switch than Dave's(no offense Dave.. it's a beautiful switch). I was thinking maybe one with pilot, or maybe I can use the existing Rockwell switch that came with the machine. I haven't looked inside the switch box yet. Thanks

 

[Dustyflannel]

About the existing Rockwell switch. Just opened it up. I like the idea of original/authentic and all that... but it looks a bit shady. Is that tape something they normally do in the field? It does work, because that's how I tested the machine.

 

[Davefr]

Thanks Dave for taking the time to post that switch. I think I found it at Grainger.. That is one costly switch my friend! (Heater sold separately). Not sure I'll go that route, but I do appreciate the knowledge. Much thanks.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3H...aCbRg8cvlhliZgrc3qhoCUL4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Grainger's a rip off. I think I paid around $20 new on Ebay. Yes, it's overkill but for $20 so what.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

 

[PoorUB]

About the existing Rockwell switch. Just opened it up. I like the idea of original/authentic and all that... but it looks a bit shady. Is that tape something they normally do in the field? It does work, because that's how I tested the machine.

It might be taped up just to cover the wiring connections. No matter anyway and you need to remove it. You might be able to use it as a main power switch before the VFD.
Remember, no disconnects/switches after the VFD on the main power wires.

 

[PoorUB]

Plenty low prices switches on amazon.
Amazon Rotary Switch
or,
Toggle Switch

 

[shawhite]

It might be taped up just to cover the wiring connections. No matter anyway and you need to remove it. You might be able to use it as a main power switch before the VFD.
Remember, no disconnects/switches after the VFD on the main power wires.

Everyone always says nothing between the vfd and motor. I wired my vfd to the 2 speed switch on my arboga and it works great and gives me 2 motor speeds.

 

[Davefr]

About the existing Rockwell switch. Just opened it up. I like the idea of original/authentic and all that... but it looks a bit shady. Is that tape something they normally do in the field? It does work, because that's how I tested the machine.

That area is the perfect space for the remote control for the VFD. (ie start/stop toggle switch and potentiometer). It would be a shame to use it for the main power on switch for the VFD.

 

[PoorUB]

Everyone always says nothing between the vfd and motor. I wired my vfd to the 2 speed switch on my arboga and it works great and gives me 2 motor speeds.

Why would you do that?
The VFD gives you infinite speeds. I would have simply wired to the high speed and run it. You low speed has less HP. The VFD running the motor on high speed and the same RPM as low speed most likely had more power.

Also it is very hard of VFDs to disconnect the load while the VFD is on. You may get by with it, but nobody that deals with VFDs will recommend it.

 

[shawhite]

The air flow from the internal fan is almost zero if I wire it to the high side and drop the freq on the vfd to match the low speed. Sure this is not an issue when you drill one or two holes but I had a project where I was drilling quite a few holes and the motor got really hot.

 

[Dustyflannel]

Grainger's a rip off. I think I paid around $20 new on Ebay. Yes, it's overkill but for $20 so what.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com

Dave, thanks for the link to the ebay switch. You're right, you can get it a LOT cheaper there.

 

[Dustyflannel]

Plenty low prices switches on amazon.
Amazon Rotary Switch
or,
Toggle Switch

PoorUB, thanks for the links. I'm still getting my head around all these switches.

 

[Dustyflannel]

That area is the perfect space for the remote control for the VFD. (ie start/stop toggle switch and potentiometer). It would be a shame to use it for the main power on switch for the VFD.

Dave, I agree, that is the best spot for the control switches. Most likely that's where I'll put them, and I'll locate my power switch somewhere else. Thanks

 

[PoorUB]

The air flow from the internal fan is almost zero if I wire it to the high side and drop the freq on the vfd to match the low speed. Sure this is not an issue when you drill one or two holes but I had a project where I was drilling quite a few holes and the motor got really hot.

Isn't the cooling fan directly coupled to the motor shaft? The fan will be running the same speed running on low motor speed as running on high speed and ramped down with the VFD.

 

[Dustyflannel]

Sorry for the delay, I had a few things come up that were more pressing and required my immediate attention(furnace/upstate NY).

Anyway, the VFD and enclosure have arrived. The power cord to VFD is ordered(but not the cable for VFD to motor..still working on that). I'm looking at fan/s for the enclosure. Does anyone know whether I need 2-pin, 3-pin, etc.? I'm looking at things like this. Also, some fan filters.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z8J8SQV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Amazon.com

Will I need a 12v transformer or does the VFD have that ability built in?

Thanks all!

 

[PoorUB]

PoorUB, thanks for the links. I'm still getting my head around all these switches.

Wait until you get the VFD and then start figuring it out.
Depending on how you can program the controls you should need one SPDT maintained forward and reverse, a potentiometer, and a big red "oh ****!" switch for emergency shut off.
I was planning on a rotary switch for forward reverse, center position off.

 

[PoorUB]

Sorry for the delay, I had a few things come up that were more pressing and required my immediate attention(furnace/upstate NY).

Anyway, the VFD and enclosure have arrived. The power cord to VFD is ordered(but not the cable for VFD to motor..still working on that). I'm looking at fan/s for the enclosure. Does anyone know whether I need 2-pin, 3-pin, etc.? I'm looking at things like this. Also, some fan filters.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z8J8SQV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Amazon.com

Will I need a 12v transformer or does the VFD have that ability built in?

Thanks all!

12v for what? I don't know what you need 12v for! As for computer fan for cooling just get 120 volt and wire to the 120 v incoming power so it is on all the time.

 

[Dustyflannel]

12v for what? I don't know what you need 12v for! As for computer fan for cooling just get 120 volt and wire to the 120 v incoming power so it is on all the time.

Got it, thanks. I'll look into 120v fans.

 

[nadogail]

Congratulations on your Drill Press find may you enjoy good health while enjoying the good service it will give you for many years.

 

[Davefr]

Sorry for the delay, I had a few things come up that were more pressing and required my immediate attention(furnace/upstate NY).

Anyway, the VFD and enclosure have arrived. The power cord to VFD is ordered(but not the cable for VFD to motor..still working on that). I'm looking at fan/s for the enclosure. Does anyone know whether I need 2-pin, 3-pin, etc.? I'm looking at things like this. Also, some fan filters.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z8J8SQV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Amazon.com

Will I need a 12v transformer or does the VFD have that ability built in?

Thanks all!

Are you sure you even need a fan? DP's rarely run long duty cycles and you also won't be drawing too many running amps. As long as the enclosure is vented that may be enough. Is your shop in a hot environment? Does the VFD spec. a max. operating ambient.

 

[PoorUB]

Are you sure you even need a fan? DP's rarely run long duty cycles and you also won't be drawing too many running amps. As long as the enclosure is vented that may be enough. Is your shop in a hot environment? Does the VFD spec. a max. operating ambient.

A computer syle muffin fan is $15-$20. Seems like cheap unsurance to put one in. Keep in mind the VFD probably will not get turned off except at the end of the day so the VFD will be sitting idle and generating some heat.

 

[seber]

Why would you do that?
The VFD gives you infinite speeds. I would have simply wired to the high speed and run it. You low speed has less HP. The VFD running the motor on high speed and the same RPM as low speed most likely had more power.

Also it is very hard of VFDs to disconnect the load while the VFD is on. You may get by with it, but nobody that deals with VFDs will recommend it.

Not quite. The motor always has the same torque with a VFD but slower speed means less power. Using the two speed motor means you have more torque a lower speed. That can be very important for big holes.

 

[ShuhornGarage]

Brand new here (hello all!), where would I post questions/photos regarding advise on choosing a used drill press? I have finally found a couple, maybe three to choose from in my area.

Thanks!

General International was a decent drill press but unfortunately they have gone out of business to parts may be an issue. I'm not a King fan but they do seem somewhat popular & reasonably sturdy. The big question is what is your intended use, wood or steel & what size holes will you want?

Most drills will make 1/2" holes fairly well but if you want to drill 1" plus you'll need a fairly robust unit.

I just built my own hydrulic driven drill (with design & indea help from a neighbour) & it should drill up to 1 1/2" in steel, without an issue

When buying used, make sure the feed up & down works smoothly, the last one I bought has issues & a bit of a challenge to correct

The larger the chuck the better, drill with 1/2" chucks are a waste of money. Better to go bigger than you think you'll need & tomorrow you'll be gald you did

Happy shopping

Cheers

 

[PoorUB]

Not quite. The motor always has the same torque with a VFD but slower speed means less power. Using the two speed motor means you have more torque a lower speed. That can be very important for big holes.

Every two speed motor I have ever seen was 1/2 to 3/4ths the high speed HP on low speed. Iwould bet high speed with the VFD would have similar power.

 

[shawhite]

General International was a decent drill press but unfortunately they have gone out of business to parts may be an issue. I'm not a King fan but they do seem somewhat popular & reasonably sturdy. The big question is what is your intended use, wood or steel & what size holes will you want?

Most drills will make 1/2" holes fairly well but if you want to drill 1" plus you'll need a fairly robust unit.

I just built my own hydrulic driven drill (with design & indea help from a neighbour) & it should drill up to 1 1/2" in steel, without an issue

When buying used, make sure the feed up & down works smoothly, the last one I bought has issues & a bit of a challenge to correct

The larger the chuck the better, drill with 1/2" chucks are a waste of money. Better to go bigger than you think you'll need & tomorrow you'll be gald you did

Happy shopping

Cheers

If I was looking to drill 1 1/2 holes in steel plate I would probably use annular cutters instead of a twist drill and I could do that with any decent drillpress

 

[ShuhornGarage]

Brand new here (hello all!), where would I post questions/photos regarding advise on choosing a used drill press? I have finally found a couple, maybe three to choose from in my area.

Thanks!

 

[ShuhornGarage]

I intended to say the drill runs off the 3hp hydraulic pump which is the power unit for a 60 ton, 4ft brake

Note; a power beyond valve is required to make multiple tools work of one power supply

Use a detent valve & a flow restrictor to control the speed

A custom made adjustable vise mounts solidly on the 2 arms & is easily moved fore & aft & rotates for perfect positioning

The vice is like the one on the smaller drill press just a different locking system to clamp it down & it's 6" vs a 4" wide

A good way to tell if your vise is any good, take a 1/2" washer, clamp it in the vise & drill it out 3/4", if it works well, you have an great vise

The fellow that designed it for me has one almost identical & he drills 1 - 1/2" holes in 1" plate is no problem

Living by the go big or go home motto is a little more expensive but having the tool to do the job yourself is very satisfing & one seldom needs to re-buy bigger, better tools if you start off with good tools

Did I need a bigger drill press, well no but I want the ability to make bigger holes without taking a week to get the job done (type A++)

 

[shawhite]

You can drill 1 1/2 in holes in 1in plate with a mag drill and annular cutter. I means it’s cool that you engineered and build your own drill press but it seems like more of a novelty than a needed invention.

 

[ShuhornGarage]

Actually, I did not design it, the fellow that built my brake disigned it. All I did was the cutting & assembly/welding of the drill

I don't have a mag drill & don't seem to have a need for one & seem to think they may be heavy & ackward more often than not.

Needing a custom built drill is not necessary but it sure beats taking material somewhere else to have holes drilled in it when the minimum cost at machine shops is generally $100-$150 to walk in the door plus taxes & my time traveling to & fro

A drill press is never required as there are multiple soultions to create a hole. It just happens that when I want a particular hole, I want it now & without leaving the garage or resorting to an oxy torch or plasma

Just drilled a 1 - 13/16" hole with it in 1/2" plate to see if it would & it did so, making the desired holes is no longer a challenge

Being considered a novelity definately depends on one's abilities & capabilities. To some a welder is a novelity to, to others a scerwdriver is a novelity.

Having a 1500 HP car is a novelity to most but the people that have them, they are deemed a necessity

Have a great day & all the best

 

[PoorUB]

Got it, thanks. I'll look into 120v fans.

Dusty, did you get it done yet?

 

[Dustyflannel]

Dusty, did you get it done yet?

PoorUB, Sorry for the lengthy delay. I am just seeing this msg now. I either didn't get the email notification or missed it somehow, sorry.

Anyway, no, I haven't gotten it done yet, but my schedule has eased up and I'm ready to get this DP running. I still need to order some parts. I'm just getting my head back into it. I think I was in the middle of ordering switches and a fan + filters. I can't remember how many switches I need or what types( I'm looking back at your suggestions). Do I need three switches? 1) main on/off switch? 2) toggle fwd/stop/rev switch? 3) potentiometer?

Also, I am looking at this 120V fan and these filters.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXTWZI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Amazon.com

Again, sorry for the delay, and thank you all for the great advise and insights. I really got bogged down on the shielded cable thing. I spent hours and hours reading about that, and still am not sure how to solve that issue... or maybe I'm just overthinking it and someone has the experience to guide me through that part of the wiring.

Thanks!
Dustin

 

[PoorUB]

no problem Dusty, I just thought you would have it done by now!

I put a switch in the incoming power to drop pwer to the VFD. I just used a typical light switch, but in combination with a 120 volt outlet.

Here is everything I used. Your VFD may not fit the box, mine was tight!

As for the fan for the enclosure, I thought about it and a 80MM fan is way over kill. I used a 60 mm fan,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8V6YS6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

inlet filter,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01303II5W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Chip screen for fan,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01303II5W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Speed pot,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHG6SYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

FWD/REV switch,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MYM2GRX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Electrical box I used,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0932DXN1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Take a look here at my set up.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...conversions-installations.320064/post-9491736

Like me know if you have any questions!

 

[Dustyflannel]

no problem Dusty, I just thought you would have it done by now!

I put a switch in the incoming power to drop pwer to the VFD. I just used a typical light switch, but in combination with a 120 volt outlet.

Here is everything I used. Your VFD may not fit the box, mine was tight!

As for the fan for the enclosure, I thought about it and a 80MM fan is way over kill. I used a 60 mm fan,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8V6YS6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

inlet filter,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01303II5W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Chip screen for fan,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01303II5W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Speed pot,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHG6SYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

FWD/REV switch,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MYM2GRX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Electrical box I used,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0932DXN1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Take a look here at my set up.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...conversions-installations.320064/post-9491736

Like me know if you have any questions!

PoorUB, thanks so much for the reply and the links. Your DP looks great! I hope its working well.

I ordered the fan and filters. I have a couple questions on the switches. About the FWD/REV switch- Did you order the 20A, 8 terminal switch? and about the "Oh sh*t" switch- the ones I'm looking at are 10A, Is that what you installed?

I had already ordered my enclosure, and yes it did have to be a bit larger to fit my VFD. Even the larger one, I wouldn't call it "spacious".

Thanks again!
Dustin

 

[Dustyflannel]

no problem Dusty, I just thought you would have it done by now!

I put a switch in the incoming power to drop pwer to the VFD. I just used a typical light switch, but in combination with a 120 volt outlet.

Here is everything I used. Your VFD may not fit the box, mine was tight!

As for the fan for the enclosure, I thought about it and a 80MM fan is way over kill. I used a 60 mm fan,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H8V6YS6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

inlet filter,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01303II5W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Chip screen for fan,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01303II5W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Speed pot,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHG6SYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

FWD/REV switch,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MYM2GRX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Electrical box I used,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0932DXN1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Take a look here at my set up.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...conversions-installations.320064/post-9491736

Like me know if you have any questions!

On the pot, Should I get the 5K? or is that something I need to look up in my spec sheet?
Thanks!

 

[PoorUB]

On the pot, Should I get the 5K? or is that something I need to look up in my spec sheet?
Thanks!

Check your specs, but I would bet a 5k will work.

The other switches are just control voltage so the smaller amp switches are more than fine. I ordered those switches because they work and the price was right!

 

[Dustyflannel]

Check your specs, but I would bet a 5k will work.

The other switches are just control voltage so the smaller amp switches are more than fine. I ordered those switches because they work and the price was right!

Found 5K in the spec. sheet.. am I right?

Thanks!