Drillbit grinder

[isb cornbinder]

I had been activly looking for an American Made drill bit grinder. the two units that I prefer are the Lisle 91000 and the sterling. Thanks to anyone that can help.

 

[isb cornbinder]

My luck improved suddenly. Today I found and bought a Sterling grinder. I called the OEM and they have all the parts I would like to have for a restoration/freshening.
I will take pictures and post them.

 

[isb cornbinder]

After what seemed like a long time searching for a STERLING drill bit grinder, I found what I was looking for. The grinder was in some almost forgotten inventory of a used machinery dealer about 367 kilometers from my shop. I went for a look and we made a deal. The drill-bit grinder has suffered a little from decades of reasonably dry storage. Before I can use this machine, it will need a complete service and freshening. This has turned into a full restoration plan. I called the OEM and all of the parts are available at very reasonable prices.
I should mention the pictures are what the restored grinder will look like. Other than a coating of heavy dust and a little surface rust, the grinder I bought looks the same.

 

[isb cornbinder]

After looking at my new to me grinder for a week, I took it apart and, started the metal cleaning. Today, I got the base and the motor house painted. This colour is very close to the original STERLING color for this model year.
I am pleased to report that I will need to replace two inexpensive pieces. I could probably reuse the 59* bit stop, but I think it may have been bent. There is a protective boot missing from one of the adjustable shafts.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I have finished the restoration of my STERLING and I am ready for a test grind.
If the right deal happens I would buy a Lisle 91000

 

[isb cornbinder]

A few more pictures.
I contacted the Sterling factory and ordered four parts for three missing and one damage original pieces.
The serial number on this grinder says it was made in June of 1968.
There is no measurable wear on any of the control surfaces. I had to use a mill file to remove a few hammer marks on the drill carriage. The minor surface rusting was removed in a few minutes with EVAPORUST in a 30 liter ultrasonic parts cleaning tank.
Rather than polishing and or plating the adjustable knobs and levers, they were cleaned then treated with BIRCHWOOD CASEY metal super blue.

Today I hope to build a mobile transport base for this 380 pound machine.

 

[isb cornbinder]

more pictures. I used the pictured roller to transfer paint to the raised lettering. After spraying red into the STERLING on the motor housing, I used this soft roller to apply the dark green cover paint coat.
I made the safety cover for the grinder stone.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Finally, the mobile base for this grinder is finished and installed under the machine. It works perfectly and I think it looks really good.

 

[isb cornbinder]

This thread was moved from wanted to general tool discussion. Thanks.

 

[DavidB]

Congrats on finding the drill bit grinder. I'm happy to see you restoring it!

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Great job on your rebuild.
You should start some albums on the Journal for each of your projects. I have a feeling you have more items to display.

 

[isb cornbinder]

The fifty or so USD for the parts I ordered from STERLING cost me nearly $150 CDN. It was the brokerage fees of nearly 100% that added the most to the final amount. I am pleased to be able to buy parts for a 50 year old machine, MADE IN USA,, BUT, I will use my Point Roberts. WA mail address next time and save $60.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Nice work on the restore!

I got bit by brokerage fees too. A forum friend sent me a shifter for my race truck for free and I had to pay $40 to UPS. USPS doesn't seem to have the same fees. Another thing I found is under $C20 isn't "supposed" to be charged.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Great job on your rebuild.
You should start some albums on the Journal for each of your projects. I have a feeling you have more items to display.

There are more than a few project that I could make into albums, but, I don't think this will happen in the near future. I have posted a little something on some of the projects and that will have to do, for now.
Possibly my next freshening up project might be a KELLER power hacksaw.
I bought it from a CL seller. He owned the saw for four decades and never used it because he does not have three phase. I ordered a sealed US MOTOR with external cooling. The motor will be here on Tuesday. All of the three phase switching and three phase motor went on CL and sold in 30 minutes.
The "turn-off" switching may not be OEM, but it works really well and looks like it belongs, so it stays.
this saw is in very clean used condition, so a complete freshening may not happen for some time.
The saw will get a mobile base system tomorrow. This saw is very heavy and my estimate is 200# plus.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Nice find
Will you be doing the same colour as on the Sterling? What was the paint code and manufacturer of that colour? You did remind me to check Kijiji for a used power hack saw. Good luck.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I am not concerned about paint codes. The paint I am using is RUSTOLEUM and it is close enough. I have checked the Rustoleum against hidden paint areas on my HOFFER camelback drill press, the Sterling grinder and the Keller saw. I thought the colours are very much the same. So. if and more likely, when I freshen the Keller, it will get the same green paint.
I have a big WF and John Barnes camel back drill press dated as 1883. The OEM colour was black and depressing, so I did it in a less intimidating machinery gray.
I like to run original two inch flat belt final drives. I will not have line shaft drives, so I build motor houses at the base. The the first cone pulley and support system sits on the motor house and is driven with double link belts. The cone pulley and flat belt drive the drillpress top cone pulley and shaft.
I have these vintage machines in service for daily use. The WF and John Barnes takes some baby-sitting because it is unforgiving and can snap a half inch drill bit easily if left on power-feed.
The base for the WF and John Barnes motor housing is made from parts of the case of a recycled microwave cabinet. The louvered cabinet back gives a nice custom look.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I did the final wiring for the STERLING today. I chose to use a duplex plug and terminal box. The grinder and the service light plug into the duplex plug.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I was not pleased with the ******* bundle of machine light cord at the back of the STERLING grinder. I took the lamp totally apart to shorten the cord about about a meter. Inside the ceramic bulb holder the connections were soldered. The wires are protected by heat resistant sleeves.
The machine lamp is of the highest quality and MADE IN USA. The base has five 17 millimeter neodymium magnets mounted in a retainer frame. It sticks like it was welded.
I bought the remaining Made in USA stock, of 5 units, in a local tool store and I got a "deal" of $10/each. Some became presents.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Today, I ground a 1/2" jobber drillbit and then tested the bit in some 2"X3"aluminium bar stock. The performance was not too bad, but, I think I can make a minor adjustment and make it cut a little better.
The Sterling instructions call for a one inch drillbit to do the set-up calibrations. After waiting for the machine tool supplier to bring in my order, they brought in the wrong bit. The company had the one inch drillbit in stock all along.

 

[switchman]

i have a sterling,but live in ohio.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I have never been to OHIO. There is a series of fantastic fly over USA videos on TV and You Tube. Every state has some special about it.
Do you use your Sterling?