Dual 6-50R Receptacles

[bad_idea]

I have two welding machines on a cart. I only use one at a time. I have an extension cord for plugging the machines in. I would like to put two 6-50R receptacles on the end of the cord, I am tired of unplugging one machine to use the other. I am looking for an elegant solution to make up a good cord end. I am thinking a 3 gang box with two 6-50R receptacles in it. I have been unable to find a cover plate for the two. I can make one up, but would rather use an over the counter solution. Ideas?

 

[Stuart in MN]

I think getting a blank cover plate and cutting the required size holes in it will be the easiest solution.

 

[Norcal]

2 deep 4X4 boxes nippled together w/ a 1/2" raised cover for 30/50A devices.

Steel City 4 in. 30.3 cu. in. Metallic Square Box 521711234EW-25R - The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

Steel City 4 in. Square Box Cover for 30 or 50 Amp Receptacle RS13-10R - The Home Depot

The 1-Gang Square Dryer Receptacle Cover is intended for use as a cover for a 4 in. square, dryer- or range receptacle box. The cover is suitable for use with 30- or 50 Amp receptacles. It is CSA and UL listed.

www.homedepot.com

No need to reinvent the wheel when off the shelf will work, put a 3rd box between the two to splice the cables w/ a blank cover on it.

 

[dcg9381]

There are splitters. I use something similar for 14-50R.

 

[mike93lx]

I looked at the Hubbell catalog a bit and didn't see an off the shelf solution.

I'd do what Norcal suggested and just use two boxes.

 

[mike93lx]

There are splitters. I use something similar for 14-50R.

$100 plus a ton of bulk...

 

[Zeke]

Hmmm. Welder and metal box. I'm seeing a piece of square tubing long enough to put the recepts one on each end and center fed from the bottom.

Just to be different.

 

[BukitCase]

I made an 85' 8/4 SOOW cord (the extra wire is if I ever decide I want 120 volts also) just as Norcal suggests - 2 deep 4x4 boxes locked together with 2 chase *******, clamp at input of first box - plenty of room to strip some cable and use BOTH chases to wire the SECOND 6-50R.

Even my mm252 runs fine at any setting, the mm211 and or PM45 don't even know they're on an extension... Steve

 

[PCustoms]

I made an 85' 8/4 SOOW cord (the extra wire is if I ever decide I want 120 volts also) just as Norcal suggests - 2 deep 4x4 boxes locked together with 2 chase *******, clamp at input of first box - plenty of room to strip some cable and use BOTH chases to wire the SECOND 6-50R.

Even my mm252 runs fine at any setting, the mm211 and or PM45 don't even know they're on an extension... Steve

Why 2 *******, did you run 2 strands of #8 through each one?

 

[alfredeneuman]

2 deep 4X4 boxes nippled together w/ a 1/2" raised cover for 30/50A devices.

Over time the movement of the cable will loosen the locknuts on the sheet metal boxes.
Additionally the remaining KO's are too easily knocked in.
I'd use deep boxes with threaded hubs (like Bell boxes).

 

[mike93lx]

Over time the movement of the cable will loosen the locknuts on the sheet metal boxes.
Additionally the remaining KO's are too easily knocked in.
I'd use deep boxes with threaded hubs (like Bell boxes).

I think part of the point of this setup is to not need to plug and unplug anything at the cart

 

[Norcal]

I made an 85' 8/4 SOOW cord (the extra wire is if I ever decide I want 120 volts also) just as Norcal suggests - 2 deep 4x4 boxes locked together with 2 chase *******, clamp at input of first box - plenty of room to strip some cable and use BOTH chases to wire the SECOND 6-50R.

Even my mm252 runs fine at any setting, the mm211 and or PM45 don't even know they're on an extension... Steve

Going to add a circuit breaker for the 120V, or use a 50A,125V receptacle? If you do it....

 

[mm08822]

Why 2 *******, did you run 2 strands of #8 through each one?

2 will prevent the boxes from rotating.

 

[mm08822]

Over time the movement of the cable will loosen the locknuts on the sheet metal boxes.
Additionally the remaining KO's are too easily knocked in.
I'd use deep boxes with threaded hubs (like Bell boxes).

I use bonding locknuts so that doesn't happen. Can also get boxes w/o ko's.

 

[BukitCase]

Probably will NOT do 120 on this cord, other end is just a single 50P. Main reason for the extra conductor is the old hotrodder adage, "run whut ya brung"

Can't find non-knockout boxes here, couple quick tacks with mig works.

mm08822 got the reason for 2 ******* - IME that also lessens likelihood of lock nuts loosening.

Yeah, IIRC I ran ground and the "spare" thru the second ******.

I also back up nuts with the smooth plastic nuts, less likelihood of chafing AND tends to (sorta) act as a lock nut.

I have 3 hard-wired 6-50Rs within 10-15 feet of where I do probably 95% of my welding, the 85' hangs on a garden hose hanger unless I need it for the rare exception... Steve

 

[Noltz]

3D printing would solve this. I had a similar situation and this is what I came up with when the newb electrician left me with no cover & none to be found. This is a backup compressor outlet that's used while we're servicing the main one.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I use bonding locknuts so that doesn't happen. Can also get boxes w/o ko's.

I was suggesting materials that can be picked up at any "big box" store.
Both those are electrical supply only items. I don't think many of them have the boxes in stock.

 

[jpaw]

There are always surface mount receptacles that could be made into a splitter cable. But I agree that 2 deep boxes attached to each other is probably the best diy way.
A custom touch would be some rubberized undercoating or bed liner for a durable finish.

 

[Norcal]

There are always surface mount receptacles that could be made into a splitter cable. But I agree that 2 deep boxes attached to each other is probably the best diy way.
A custom touch would be some rubberized undercoating or bed liner for a durable finish.

Surface mount receptacles are rather fragile, used one on a extension cord 40 years ago or so before I knew better, it worked great for me, but when someone else used it they dropped it rendering it into trash, even a 4X4 box fares poorly for the same reasons plus not compliant to use either one that way, it would not take much to crack them on a welding cart, a previous suggestion to use Bell boxes is good, with a chrome or stainless plate to trim it out makes it look pretty good.

 

[jpaw]

Surface mount receptacles are rather fragile, used one on a extension cord 40 years ago or so before I knew better, it worked great for me, but when someone else used it they dropped it rendering it into trash, even a 4X4 box fares poorly for the same reasons plus not compliant to use either one that way, it would not take much to crack them on a welding cart, a previous suggestion to use Bell boxes is good, with a chrome or stainless plate to trim it out makes it look pretty good.

I completely agree with your first post.
I have been using a modified surface mount as an adapter for my generator cord for years without an issue. However I do agree that it is not the most durable option.
In the op's situation I would look at permanently mounting what ever he uses to the welding cart. It makes plugging and unplugging much easier when you just have to hold the cart. Also offers some protection to the boxes.