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dual 80 broken already

fordbroncodave

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i was taking the bolts out of my exhaust manifolds where the flanges connect the cross over pipe and my brand new never used dual 80 SHLF80A shreaded gears or busted a pawl or something. free spins with the lever pushed all the way in the clockwise position. it catches a tooth when you tap it in your hands then spin it again.

i thought these were good through 200ft lbs? i was probably at 125ft lbs when i was yanking on it

:willy_nil:willy_nil:willy_nil:willy_nil:willy_nil:willy_nil


i am very convinced it was a defect inside. the same one at work has not broken and its like 5 years old and same thing with my sl80.

:dunno:
 
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Bull

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Well, they are a company, not a bunch of wizards. I suppose stuff will break from time to time, even if it shouldn't.

Maybe a breaker or impact is called for in this case? Red wrench? Exhaust bolts are just about as bad as it gets.
 

billymade

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I would be tempted to tear it apart and see what is wrong with it; let us see the broken parts if you do so...

check out how here...

 

LGMechanical

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Are the screws on the drive side?

If so, there is an updated head with the screws on the top. All of the drive side screw heads do this. You should be able to get the updated head for free.

If you have the updated one, well, it must just be defective. Mine has gone through a lot of torture without breaking a sweat.
 
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rockchucker

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I would tear into it and see what broke...Not like it is a complicated new age piece of machinery. It's a RATCHET for cryin' out loud! =)
 

billymade

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Call Snapon if you have the "A" version and they will probably send you the "B" version free of charge...
 

DrkMtnDew

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The 'B' models are stronger but they sure don't win a beauty contest with those big nasty screws on the back of the head. oh well tools are meant to be used not look pritty.
 

Hiball

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Call Snapon if you have the "A" version and they will probably send you the "B" version free of charge...

The 'B' models are stronger but they sure don't win a beauty contest with those big nasty screws on the back of the head. oh well tools are meant to be used not look pritty.

I thought the "A" Version Snap on Ratchets where the New Models which have the Screws through the Chrome side of the Head. :dunno:

The only Snap on "B" Ratchet ive ever seen was a SX80B, Which also has the screws thru the Chrome side.
 

Skin

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I thought the "A" Version Snap on Ratchets where the New Models which have the Screws through the Chrome side of the Head. :dunno:

The only Snap on "B" Ratchet ive ever seen was a SX80B, Which also has the screws thru the Chrome side.

i believe hiball is 100% correct, the OP already has the updated ratchet if he does indeed have an A model. You can see the PDF with the part numbers here from last fall.

http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/s.series.ratchets_npa.pdf
 

Tony N.

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Guys, he said he has the SHLF80A.
SHLF80A.jpg


Open it! It would be nice to see if the gears are really busted.
 

Skin

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looks like your direction lever broke so its stuck in "neutral" as if the lever were in the middle. The pawl is suppose to wedge against one side of the gear or the other, not float inbetween. Nothing a repair kit cant fix.
 
OP
F

fordbroncodave

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if i click it to the off position it works fine but the on position does not work as i am showing
 
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Skin

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yep its suppose to wedge the pawls up to either side when its switched. Its simply broken on one side.
 

jaredlucky16

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the last 2 dual 80's ive bought have been stripped brand new out of the box. had them each rebuilt once then just replaced completely. Kinda live me the thought they were junk
 

otis66

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If he does not have the new style ratchet he will be getting one ASAP from Snap On. I have never heard of this happening before.
 

Toolhorder

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I haven't had any problems with mine. I know they did update them and I have a bunch of the first style. Last exhaust nuts or whatever I took off I used a big 1/2 locking flex head rat. Worked great especially with the small degree of arc or whatever.
 

Murphy4570

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Are the screws on the drive side?

If so, there is an updated head with the screws on the top. All of the drive side screw heads do this. You should be able to get the updated head for free.

If you have the updated one, well, it must just be defective. Mine has gone through a lot of torture without breaking a sweat.

Huh, I have the original 80 tooth models. Bought them when they first came out, when Snappy was still selling the old 36 tooth ratchets. I have put quite a bit of stress on them, and they haven't broken yet!
 

skeletonizer

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Thread **** advisory:

Clearly you didn't pay enough for the ratchet. Had you donated an extra $100 to the Church of Snap on the gods of ridiculously overpriced tools of declining quality would have sprinkled some extra pixie dust on it for you.
 

bsaint

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Thread **** advisory:

Clearly you didn't pay enough for the ratchet. Had you donated an extra $100 to the Church of Snap on the gods of ridiculously overpriced tools of declining quality would have sprinkled some extra pixie dust on it for you.

Geez, hate much?
 

Tony N.

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Uhm, if you said there are no broken pawls or gears then your pawls are just out of place. I've had a ratchet lock up because the pawls were not properly seated while I was taking the gears out to lube it. Also, you can not spin the ratchet gear like that while the ratchet is open. The pawls will get misaligned and the ratchet will lock up. The cover must be on before you can spin the ratchet.

Watch this video:

Take the pawl out and reassemble it according to those instructions.

I'm just trying to save you some gas. Unless you're trying to visit the Snap-on man for more purchases, just attempt this yourself and learn something new about your ratchet. GL!
 
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OP
F

fordbroncodave

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heres the scoop, my snappy dealer opened it up and replaced everything inside yesterday. he said nothing was out of the ordinary but he did mention the gap around the gear. he said there was more gap then usual (possibly misscut or milled?)

so he puts it back together and gives it a few spins both ways. all checks out fine. when i am walking back into the shop i am playing with it some more and the damn thing locked up again but this time it wouldn't spin both ways. he opens it again and does some poking around and put it back together.


not sure what you guys think but i think this one is a lemon. the identical shlf80 at work has not failed yet except the screws come out of the head so we locktited them in
 

chadster1

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so he puts it back together and gives it a few spins both ways. all checks out fine. when i am walking back into the shop i am playing with it some more and the damn thing locked up again but this time it wouldn't spin both ways. he opens it again and does some poking around and put it back together.

He probably did not get the dual pawl set correctly in the reverse lever when he rebuilt it. I have had the same thing happen to me.
 

mvptrukin

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As a working mechanic since '71, and a tightwad by the way, I would never use a ratchet to break exhaust nuts or any nuts for that matter! I am surprised that nobody mentioned this! If you don't have power tools buy a 1/2" breaker bar! I learned this in mechanic school 40+ years ago, don't always blame it on the tools. I worked hard to buy the best (Snapon) and my family probably would have preferred that I spent less money on my tools but I put two children thru college using my snapon tools! I have ratchets from the '70s that look like the day they came off the trk. If I was your toolman I wouldn't honor an abused tool.
 

G1GRANDEUR

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No matter what, people will still use long handle ratchet as breaker bar and compliant.
 

Skin

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No matter what, people will still use long handle ratchet as breaker bar and compliant.

Then dont produce ratchets with long handles if they cant take the leverage. Pretty damned simple. These companies know exactly whats going to be done with their $200.00+ 2 foot long 1/2" ratchets. Sure as hell isnt being purchased just to have 2ft of reach in 1/2" drive but but god forbid you pull on it.

Are these pemium tools that can take the abusive environment they're expected to be used in every day or not? If not then everyone can just buy from HF.
 
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D9H 90V

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id say you just got a bad one, I have used mine multiple time to break loose the harmonic balancer bolt on a duramax engine, which by the way is factory torqued to 325ft/lbs, it also gets called upon when we have to crush crush sleeves, never had any problems with mine, its a SLX80A
 

Altec

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As a working mechanic since '71, and a tightwad by the way, I would never use a ratchet to break exhaust nuts or any nuts for that matter! I am surprised that nobody mentioned this! If you don't have power tools buy a 1/2" breaker bar! I learned this in mechanic school 40+ years ago, don't always blame it on the tools. I worked hard to buy the best (Snapon) and my family probably would have preferred that I spent less money on my tools but I put two children thru college using my snapon tools! I have ratchets from the '70s that look like the day they came off the trk. If I was your toolman I wouldn't honor an abused tool.

I thought the same, but I stand by the opinion that impacts are the only way to go for exhaust work.
 
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