All the above, plus the ability to modulate both the fan speed and the amount of cooling (or heat) delivered to the space as opposed to a window unit that's either on or off. Another feature is "dry mode" where the unit acts as a dehumidifier, and does so without adding heat to the space like a typical dehumidifier does.
In follow mode, the unit is controlled by the temperature at the location of the remote rather than by the temp of the air entering the unit. If the space temp is satisfied, the condensing unit will shut down while the indoor fan continues to circulate air, and if the space temp rises, the condensing unit will restart at minimum capacity and ramp up to whatever capacity is required to maintain the setpoint.
In addition to modulating the capacity to less than the nominal output, most units can also go to an output greater than the stated nominal capacity, and they can do this in both cooling and heating mode.
Re the amperage draw, in my experience with a couple Pioneer units I have, they don't actually pull anything like the max amperage as stated in the literature. For example, I have one 9K BTU 120V unit in a den. The literature shows a max of about 13 amps. If I set the thermostat such that it's calling for max cooling, and let it run long enough to be fully loaded (3-4minutes), it will be pulling about half that as measured with an amprobe. In normal steady state operation where it is maintaining the room temperature, it typically draws about 4 amps which is less than the draw of a 5K BTU window unit it replaced.
I don't know for a fact, but can only assume that in Asia where all these units are made, it may be common to state max amperage based on the draw as the compressor starts rather than steady state full load amps as is common in the US. I've never checked the starting amperage, but with an inverter starting the unit at minimum speed, a current in the range of twice the running loaded amperage would be reasonable.
